Oh muffler gaskets...

[juggler]

Well today I managed to put my wheels back on the bike after getting new rubber last weekend. Due to the position of the bike on the lift I could not replace my rear shock links with the shorter leveling links. So I have to do that another day. Putting the wheels back on wasn't too hard (remember this is my first time doing this work). Black Owl stopped over and I recruited him as my second pair of hands to help out a bit.

 

I also bought stock slip-ons so I can replace my BUB's. Wouldn't you know it I need muffler gaskets. The BUBs didn't use gaskets. The stock Yamaha's do. No one in town is open the rest of th weekend. Drats. I was hoping to get it done and put back together today.

 

Wanna bet no shop in town will have these in stock and I will have to order them in on a slow boat from Japan.

 

 

I WANNA RIDE!!

 

Edited June 8, 2008 by juggler

[Black Owl]

Or you could go to Home Depot and buy a section of copper pipe and make your own.

 

http://www.postsmile.com/img/summer/95.gif

[MAINEAC]

Well if it was me I'd put the Bubs back on til I was able to score some gaskets..

 

What's the matter with the Bubs? Too Loud?

[treeman]

why did you take Bubs off ? for stock Muffler.

[V7Goose]

OK, this process is VERY easy, but I don't know if I can explain it clear enough without pictures. But I'll try:

 

First, find an old 2x4 piece of lumber, a minimum of 3' long, but 4' - 6' is probably better.

 

Ideally, use a center stand or maintenance stand to support the main weight of the bike on the frame. If you don't have one, place the bike on the side stand and use any kind of auto jack to hold up the frame anywhere you can find to put it rear of the side stand. You don't need to jack up the bike, just support the weight as you barely raise the rear tire off the pavement. Now lay the board down next to the right side of the rear tire. Now lay down on your right side next to the tire in a position that lets you get to the shock link bolts easily. This should have your feet pointing to the rear of the bike, with your knees slightly bent, almost like you were "spooning" with the rear tire (OK, no wise cracks here, I'm actually trying to help!).

 

Ignore the piece of lumber for the moment and go ahead and remove the nuts on the strut bolts - both top and bottom. You won't be able to remove either strut (or "link" until you relieve pressure on the suspension. Here is where the lumber comes in. This might sound hard, but trust me it takes very little muscle power and is extremely easy to do.

 

While laying on your right side in the position described above, after removing the nuts from the suspension link mounting bolts, grab the 2x4 laying in front of you and use it as a lever to raise the rear tire just enough to relieve the pressure on the bolts so you can slide the bottom one out. Here is how to do that: turn the 2x4 on it's side so the 4" part is vertical, and raise it up against the rear brake rotor. The front end of the 2x4 will be sitting on the driveway, and the position is not critical at all. Generally, I think it should be somewhere around the lower part of the shock, or maybe even a little further forward. Now here is where that specific position I described comes into play - with the 2x4 in place, simply raise your left knee up so it pushes up against the end of the 2x4 lever and raises the rear tire a tad. I KNOW that it does not sound like you could have enough muscle energy in that leg to lift up the rear of the bike just by raising your left leg while laying on your right side, but it is incredibly easy - try it! If you have any trouble lifting your left knee high enough, just move the 2x4 a bit further forward or let the front end sit on something like a 4x4 block; this will lower the rear end of the lever to make it easier for your knee to reach.

 

Now, GENTLY apply pressure to the lever with your left knee while using your right hand to try and remove the lower mounting bolt. As soon as you raise it enough, the bolt will slide right out. You need to be careful to do this slow to find just the right amount of pressure; because, even a slight amount too much will lock the bolt as firmly in place as it was before you started.

 

Once you have the lower bolt out, you can ignore the lever for a moment. Remove the top bolt and the existing links. Put the new links in place and put the top bolt back. At this point, you simply raise the lever with your knee again and position it just right to allow you to slip the bottom bolt back in place. Once both links are installed over the bolts,you no longer need the 2x4. Just put the nuts back on the bolts and torque them appropriately and you are done!

 

Let me know if you have any questions; I'll do my best to help,

Goose

Edited July 20, 2008 by V7Goose
Correct stupid mistake

[juggler]

Well if it was me I'd put the Bubs back on til I was able to score some gaskets..

 

What's the matter with the Bubs? Too Loud?

 

 

Yeah, the BUB's are too loud for us on long trips. Our ears are ringing after a day of riding.

[juggler]

OK, this process is VERY easy, but I don't know if I can explain it clear enough without pictures. But I'll try:

 

First, find an old 2x4 piece of lumber, a minimum of 3' long, but 4' - 6' is probably better.

 

Place the bike on the sidestand (like you have any other options, huh?), and lay the board down next to the right side of the rear tire. Now lay down on your right side next to the tire in a position that lets you get to the shock link bolts easily. This should have your feet pointing to the rear of the bike, with your knees slightly bent, almost like you were "spooning" with the rear tire (OK, no wise cracks here, I'm actually trying to help!).

 

Ignore the piece of lumber for the moment and go ahead and remove the nuts on the strut bolts - both top and bottom. You won't be able to remove either strut (or "link" until you relieve pressure on the suspension. Here is where the lumber comes in. This might sound hard, but trust me it takes very little muscle power and is extremely easy to do.

 

While laying on your right side in the position described above, after removing the nuts from the suspension link mounting bolts, grab the 2x4 laying in front of you and use it as a lever to raise the rear tire just enough to relieve the pressure on the bolts so you can slide the botom one out. Here is how to do that: turn the 2x4 on it's side so the 4" part is verticle, and raise it up against the rear brake rotor. The front end of the 2x4 will be sitting on the driveway, and the position is not critical at all. Generally, I think it should be somewhere around the lower part of the shock, or maybe even a little further forward. Now here is where that specific position I described comes into play - with the 2x4 in place, simply raise your left knee up so it pushes up against the end of the 2x4 lever and raises the rear tire a tad. I KNOW that it does not sound like you could have enough muscle energy in that leg to lift up the rear of the bike just by raising your left leg while laying on your right side, but it is incredeibally easy - try it! If you have any trouble lifting your left knee high enough, just move the 2x4 a bit further forward or let the front end sit on something like a 4x4 block; this will lower the rear end of the lever to make it easier for your knee to reach.

 

Now, GENTLY apply pressure to the lever with your left knee while using your right hand to try and remove the lower mounting bolt. As soon as you raise it enough, the bolt will slide right out. Youu need to be carfull to do this slow to find just the right amount of pressure; because, even a slight amount too much will lock the bolt as firmly in place as it was before you started.

 

Once you have the lower bolt out, you can ignore the lever for a momemnt. Remove the top bolt and the existing links. Put the new links in place and put the top bolt back. At this point, you simply raise the lever with your knee again and position it just right to allow you to slip the bottom bolt back in place. Once both links are installed over the bolts,you no longer need the 2x4. Just put the nuts back on the bolts and torque them appropriately and you are done!

 

Let me know if you have any questions; I'll do my best to help,

Goose

 

 

Thanks for the info.

[juggler]

Well, I found the muffler gaskets in town today. I bought them after work and put on the mufflers first thing when I got home. After dinner I finished buttoning up the bike, cleaning the blue off the wheels, putting saddle bags back on, checking tire pressure, checking lights, and making note of the oil filter I needed to buy.

 

The Ride

I hit the gas station first thing, poured in a whole can of seafoam and gassed her up. Then I hit Walmart (since all the parts stores where closed) and found the oil filter. Then I took her on a shake down ride. It was only 22 miles, but it was nice to ride. The stock mufflers have a nice low sound to them. Not loud but they can be heard. I think I am going to like these over the BUB's.

 

I got home and let her cool a bit then did the oil change. I put in Amsoil 20x40(?) I will have to check the bottle again to be sure. Ran her a bit on the stand and no leaks. Woo Woo.

 

So this year I took off the wheels (myself) for the first time and did all of my own spring maintenance. It took longer to get to the point of riding since I am so busy, but it was worth the knowledge I gained and the money I saved.

 

Now I sit hear relaxing with a martini.

 

[Dano]

Yeah, the BUB's are too loud for us on long trips. Our ears are ringing after a day of riding.

 

I agree. We followed 5 or 6 Hardleys for about 15 minutes on the way back from Dons, were about 25 feet behind them. THE NAVIGATOR told me to get around them, couldn't stand it anymore!!!!! Only took a quick turn of the right wrist in 5th to go,,,,,, ahhhhhh, quiet again!!!

 

Dan