CrazyHorse Posted June 5, 2008 #26 Posted June 5, 2008 What was the one connector by the seat that needed to be hooked up on the left side of bike? Could that be the problem?
Dano Posted June 5, 2008 #27 Posted June 5, 2008 I think you're referring back to the fuel pump checking situation, it's tucked back between the frame and the gas tank, along with the kick stand connector and the regulator/rectifier/stator connectors. Dan
woz111 Posted June 5, 2008 Author #28 Posted June 5, 2008 Just to make sure I've got the right TCI unit, as the guy I bought the bike from reckons that the non working unit was the original. My bike's an 1984 Venture Royal and the TCI - Ignition Unit number is:- Type TID14-28, 41R-10, its an Hitachi LTD model. Does anyone know if this is the right model for an 84 bike?
Squeeze Posted June 5, 2008 #29 Posted June 5, 2008 There are only two different Units. One is '83 to '89, the other is from '90 upwards. The most seen Difference is the early Units used two Pickup Coils with a two Path Flywheel, the younger ones have only one Coil and a fitting Flywheel.
woz111 Posted June 5, 2008 Author #30 Posted June 5, 2008 Thanks for that squeeze, I've blocked the pipe up that comes from no 1 carb/cylinder, as with carbs on, when I put my hand over it there's no suction. Does this pipe go to the Pressure sensor? I'm asking because I didn't have one on my bike when bought, there is one on there now though.
Squeeze Posted June 5, 2008 #31 Posted June 5, 2008 I'm not sure about the '84. The '83 took the Vaccum above the Butterfly Valves and therefore the Port for the Sensor is in the Carb. The later Models utilize the Vacuum from the front left(#2) Intake Manifold. This goes for both Versions of the Ignitor Unit.
GeorgeS Posted June 5, 2008 #32 Posted June 5, 2008 The " Barrometric Pressur Sensor " vac line is hooked to the #2 cylinder ( Forward , left, cylinder ) Aft, lft, is #1 cylinder. I would not worry to much about the Pressure sensor, untill you get All other problems solved. All it does is Change The Timeing, a little as the Intake manifold Vaccume changes. Just be Sure that All 4 Intake Manifold, Vaccume Test Ports, are Capped Off, and no leaks there. You can sort out any problems with the Sensor later. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Another Item to be aware of, I bring this up , because you said you were going to Remove the Carbs again !! Intake Manifolds--- !!! INSPECT THEM CAREFULLY FOR CRACKS, especially the Fwd Right side Manifold. I had this happen to my 89 on Two seperate occasions. ie. it developed crackes. Intake Manifolds --- 2nd Item here. As long as you have the Carbs OFF! I suggest that you Also, Remove Each Manifold, and Inspect the "" O- Ring "" Seal between the manifold, and the Head !! --- Why?? these O-Rings are Known to develop Intake Leaks !! This is a Common Problem. Many folks have installed new O-Rings, but Still had Intake Leaks. I suggest you Replace the O-Rings, AND, Apply a good quality Gasket Sealant, Between the Intake Manifolds, and the Head, Surface. Any Vaccume Leaks here, will severley effect Engine Performance, and cause, a Lean Fuel Mixture, possible valve damage. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Carbs Off !!! Again, a double check Question Have you Adjusted, your " Idle Mixture Adjust needle Jets " ???? One on each Carb, The "" Correct Setting ' is From the full closed position. back them out CCW 2 and 1/4 turns. ( Remove and clean these needle jets, be very carfull not to damage them!!! the threads are easy to damage, ) ------ THIS INFORMATION IS NOT IN THE SERVICE MANUAL ------ I repeat this here, just to be sure you have this information. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- One more check due to Carbs Off -- Double Check your Throttle Mechanical Linkage " Sync Screw " Settings. To set up the Basic, Throttle Plate position settings. With the #2 throttle plate " Just Closed " be sure that #1 follows, ( set left side sync screw ) and then that #3 and #4 are also " Just Closed " use the two sync Screws on the right side to set this. Why?? Now your " Carb Sync " settings, should be In the Ball Park, but after you get the engine running good, you will have to Reset the " Sync " with the Vaccume Gauge Tool.
woz111 Posted June 6, 2008 Author #33 Posted June 6, 2008 Hi all, good new, I got it running, YIPPEE, I can finally hear her run, sounds good too. I found, as George said, a leak on cylinder two. Who'd have thought that such a small leak would cause such a problem right at the end, the carb was out by about 1mm, I gave them a push, until I couldn't see the top line of the carbs, charged the battery up again and left the bike for an hour after which she started quite easily. Needless to say al, I was smiling from ear to ear. I still need quite a lot to do to the bike to get her back on the road but a major job is sorted, I'll make a start on the electrics today, indicators are not working as well as the radio/cassette players really quiet, nothing compared to the engine though. A big thank you to everyone on this site for all you help, "Thanks All, it's Much appreciated", Woz.
GeorgeS Posted June 6, 2008 #35 Posted June 6, 2008 Great,!!!!!!!! try to get several hours of running time on the Engine now Useing Whatever brand of " Fuel System Cleaner " " Fuel injector cleaner " that you have avialable over there in England. We all use a product called --- " Sea Foam " --- here in U.S. Most Any " Fuel Injector Cleaner " will also do the job. I strongly suggest that you Clean ( with electrical contact cleaner ) " EVERY !! electrical plug on the Entire bike. Nose to Tail !! and Left to right side!! All of them!! And all Relay electrical Plugs, The metal of the Pins in the plugs, is Very Prone to Corrosion !!! High Resistance Connections, are a major problem on these bikes. Especially in Damp, rainy Climates, ( Like England, and Seattle !!!! )
GeorgeS Posted June 6, 2008 #36 Posted June 6, 2008 A friend of mine is starting a Restoration Project on a "1950 Triumph 650 Thunderbird" . He will be shipping it from San Diego, to Seattle in near future. The plan is to do a complete Restoration, and Return it to " As Stock " Condition. Anyway, I may be seeking some advice from you over there as this project progress's. Good luck.
woz111 Posted June 6, 2008 Author #37 Posted June 6, 2008 I'll do as you say George, and thanks everyone again for your help. Any help you need for getting older british bike parts let me know, there's an old bike shop near me which may be able to help, the guy never throws anything away.
Snaggletooth Posted June 6, 2008 #38 Posted June 6, 2008 Hey woz Congrats on getting her going! Knew you could do it. :cool10: And the funs just beginning. Snaggletooth
paysaw Posted November 15, 2012 #39 Posted November 15, 2012 I recently bought an 84 Royal. When I picked it up it started well. As it sat , it got harder to start. Now It wont start at all.Lots of battery and turns over good.I hear the carbs getting charged with fuel and can smell fuel as it turns over. I bought new plugs and I am going to try that first.Is there something fundamental I should be looking at too.? Ray:confused24:
Snaggletooth Posted November 16, 2012 #40 Posted November 16, 2012 Hey Ray, My '84 has the same issues........... once in a great while. It starts great for a long time then settles into a slow decline into hard starting. Over the last 5 years it has boiled down to one of two failing items. The spark plugs need to be replaced. The diaphragms have developed another leak. It's mostly the plugs needing to be fresh or every now and then I find another hole in a diaphragm. Fix either problem and it's right back to a touch of the button start. Hope you find a simple fix on yours. Mike
paysaw Posted February 5, 2013 #42 Posted February 5, 2013 Well, I checked for spark on all cylinders.All was good. I changed all my plugs.They were badly carbon-ed up.I hit the start button and it started instantly.It blew out all kinds of black smoke for the first few min.Now it runs like a champ.It purs like a kitten.Nothing out of the pipes at all.Thanks for your help.Now on to other things to fix.
Snaggletooth Posted February 5, 2013 #43 Posted February 5, 2013 Good news to hear. I've spent a lot of time over the last few years improving and replacing parts as I went along. One of my biggerst irks was the bike not starting or starting like I want it to. I have done almost every component in the electrical system from AGM battery, 4 brush starter, HD cables, fuse panel, stator, R/R, pickups, even exchanged the coils. Carbs have been gone through and still need a lil more, Tanks sealed, new fuel pump, filter and lines. Most all electrical connections have been hardwired and sealed. Digital Volt gauge tells me what I want to know. When the bike decides it's gonna through a fit about starting, it's plug time. Works like a charm. I do need to get the new diaphragms put in. I'm still running on the ones I treated with Plastic-Dip. That fix is holding up better than I ever expected. But I hope you have good season of riding this year. Mike
Trader Posted February 5, 2013 #44 Posted February 5, 2013 you said the stereo is really quiet. Just a thought.....Check to be sure the "Mute" button is not on. Mine doesn't completely kill the volume...I can still hear it if I turn it right up....then I "unmute" it and blow my eardrums out!
KIC Posted February 5, 2013 #45 Posted February 5, 2013 This is a great thread . I know most of it is old, but the info is timeless. I have been battling a running problem with my 87 and every repair seems to make no difference. This thread has given me more tests and check points . Time to get back to the 87. Thanks guys .
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