cmor Posted June 18, 2008 #26 Posted June 18, 2008 just curious.......... you said this was an '82? The first year the Venture came out was '83. Keep up the good work. No matter what the year you will have a winner.
Dano Posted June 18, 2008 #27 Posted June 18, 2008 Not hard to tell which is Carb #1, huh? That slave cylinder looks like mine did. A dentists pick set (Harbor Freight) works great on cleaning out those grooves. Expect the calipers to look the same. Dan
Condor Posted June 18, 2008 #28 Posted June 18, 2008 Not hard to tell which is Carb #1, huh? That slave cylinder looks like mine did. A dentists pick set (Harbor Freight) works great on cleaning out those grooves. Expect the calipers to look the same. Dan Rather than rebuild the one on the '83, I bought a new one from Rick at Buckeye on his recomendation, and that the rebuilds don't last. I think the rebuild kit ran around $30 bucks and a new one ran $64. The reason for all that rust is water is heavier than DOT3 and settles to the bottom of the system and creates micro-pits in the wall of the cylinder. Another reason to bleed the clutch often.... which reminds me... gotta go bleed a clutch...
Dragonslayer Posted June 18, 2008 Author #29 Posted June 18, 2008 Rather than rebuild the one on the '83, I bought a new one from Rick at Buckeye on his recomendation, and that the rebuilds don't last. I think the rebuild kit ran around $30 bucks and a new one ran $64. The reason for all that rust is water is heavier than DOT3 and settles to the bottom of the system and creates micro-pits in the wall of the cylinder. Another reason to bleed the clutch often.... which reminds me... gotta go bleed a clutch... I've been told by a reliable source (GeorgeS) that YOUDAMAN when it comes to bleeding and repriming the clutch system. I'm keeping that in mind should I run into problems repriming.
Condor Posted June 18, 2008 #30 Posted June 18, 2008 I've been told by a reliable source (GeorgeS) that YOUDAMAN when it comes to bleeding and repriming the clutch system. I'm keeping that in mind should I run into problems repriming. I wouldn't say I'm DAMAN , I just think reverse bleeding is the way to go. If the clutch is full, and I'm just looking to change out the fluid, I do it like everyone else from the top at the reserve. When the lines are empty, or really full of air pockets, I find reverse bleeding.. injecting fluid in at the slave... works the best. Some folks swear by the Mity-Vac, but when I tried using one I ended up swearing at it.... I might also add that when changing clutch fluid, Speed-Bleeders make life a lot easier. I picked up one of the reusable plastic bags from SpdBl when I bought all the bleeders from them. I just shove it on the bleeder valve and pump and fill at the reserve. I suppose you could make your own, but for... I think??... $6 bucks, what the heck....
Dragonslayer Posted June 18, 2008 Author #31 Posted June 18, 2008 I Might Also Add That When Changing Clutch Fluid, Speed-bleeders Make Life A Lot Easier. I Picked Up One Of The Reusable Plastic Bags From Spdbl When I Bought All The Bleeders From Them. I Just Shove It On The Bleeder Valve And Pump And Fill At The Reserve. I Suppose You Could Make Your Own, But For... I Think??... $6 Bucks, What The Heck.... I Totally Don't Know What This Is But I've Got To Have One. Where Can I Get One Or At Least More Info?
Condor Posted June 18, 2008 #32 Posted June 18, 2008 I Totally Don't Know What This Is But I've Got To Have One. Where Can I Get One Or At Least More Info? Here ya go.... SPEED BLEEDERS
GigaWhiskey Posted June 18, 2008 #33 Posted June 18, 2008 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=216887&postcount=2
Dragonslayer Posted June 18, 2008 Author #34 Posted June 18, 2008 I cracked open the carbs today and the only thing I can say is that there is Good News and bad news. The good news is the diaphrams seem to be in good shape with no apparent pin holes. The bad news is the interior of the carbs are completely corroded with oxidation, varnish and signs of rusty looking water. :bang head::bang head: I started soaking the carb bodies by submerging them in seafoam. Does anyone have any better suggestions for cleaning totally gunked up carbs?
Squeeze Posted June 18, 2008 #35 Posted June 18, 2008 You might bite the Bullet and find a Guy who has an ultrasonic Cleaner. That's the only real Answer to get them cleaned out
Dragonslayer Posted June 18, 2008 Author #36 Posted June 18, 2008 Here ya go.... SPEED BLEEDERS Looks cool :cool10:but, :icon_smile_questionwhat keeps the little ball valve from opening when you depress lever an spitting fluid out?
Dragonslayer Posted June 18, 2008 Author #37 Posted June 18, 2008 You might bite the Bullet and find a Guy who has an ultrasonic Cleaner. That's the only real Answer to get them cleaned out Good Idea :thumbsup2:I used to have one that I cleaned jewelry in before it overreved and fried itself. It did a great job on jewelry but, the little tub was way to small to soak a carb body in. I wonder where you would find one with a bigger basin?
Condor Posted June 19, 2008 #38 Posted June 19, 2008 Looks cool :cool10:but, :icon_smile_questionwhat keeps the little ball valve from opening when you depress lever an spitting fluid out? Nothing, It keeps the air from getting sucked back in....
Squeeze Posted June 19, 2008 #39 Posted June 19, 2008 Good Idea :thumbsup2:I used to have one that I cleaned jewelry in before it overreved and fried itself. It did a great job on jewelry but, the little tub was way to small to soak a carb body in. I wonder where you would find one with a bigger basin? Some MC Repair Shops may have them. A bigger Industry Plant may have them also, such a Machine can be used for cleaning anything. I bought a smaller chinese 5 Liter Bassin and got very good Results. Later, my Company(which i own ) bought a big and good Quality 45 Liter Bassin Machine ... Now, i can place the whole Carbset in it without splitting. We professionally use it for cleaning Parts from Oil Burners, Fans, Casings, Air Ducts, several Motor Parts such as Heads, Pistons, Valves, Injectors, virtually anything which fits in this big Bassin.
Dano Posted June 19, 2008 #40 Posted June 19, 2008 Looks cool :cool10:but, :icon_smile_questionwhat keeps the little ball valve from opening when you depress lever an spitting fluid out? You still crack them open to bleed (1/8 - 1/4 turn) and then close them like a regular bleeder when you're done. I learnt you gotta use regular bleeders when your system is dry and you're just re-filling them, then put the speedbleeders in after you have fluid in there. Dan
Dragonslayer Posted June 19, 2008 Author #41 Posted June 19, 2008 Nothing, It keeps the air from getting sucked back in.... What good is that if every time you use the clutch it spitts brake fluid all over your engine?
Dragonslayer Posted June 19, 2008 Author #42 Posted June 19, 2008 You still crack them open to bleed (1/8 - 1/4 turn) and then close them like a regular bleeder when you're done. I learnt you gotta use regular bleeders when your system is dry and you're just re-filling them, then put the speedbleeders in after you have fluid in there. Dan Oh I get it :doh:
Dragonslayer Posted June 19, 2008 Author #43 Posted June 19, 2008 Some MC Repair Shops may have them. A bigger Industry Plant may have them also, such a Machine can be used for cleaning anything. I bought a smaller chinese 5 Liter Bassin and got very good Results. Later, my Company(which i own ) bought a big and good Quality 45 Liter Bassin Machine ... Now, i can place the whole Carbset in it without splitting. We professionally use it for cleaning Parts from Oil Burners, Fans, Casings, Air Ducts, several Motor Parts such as Heads, Pistons, Valves, Injectors, virtually anything which fits in this big Bassin. Germany may be a little far for me to come borrow yours, Where would I get some info on a company that sells them in different sizes?
Condor Posted June 19, 2008 #44 Posted June 19, 2008 Germany may be a little far for me to come borrow yours, Where would I get some info on a company that sells them in different sizes? Geeze, didn't I put a link to their website in a previous post???? Maybe not... I'm keeping it a secret...
Squeeze Posted June 19, 2008 #45 Posted June 19, 2008 Geeze, didn't I put a link to their website in a previous post???? Maybe not... I'm keeping it a secret... Jack, i seriously doubt that he was refering to the Speedbleeders. Maybe it's a bit hot in California lately ... :rotf: Regarding the Ultrasonic Cleaner ... I don't know where you could find a Machine in your Area ... Ok, i gotta admit, i was bragging a bit over this wonderful Machine. Buying one, might not be an Option as these a not cheap, at least here in Germany. Sending it to you might also no good Solution, because this one is real big.
Condor Posted June 19, 2008 #46 Posted June 19, 2008 Jack, i seriously doubt that he was refering to the Speedbleeders. Maybe it's a bit hot in California lately ... :rotf: Regarding the Ultrasonic Cleaner ... I don't know where you could find a Machine in your Area ... Ok, i gotta admit, i was bragging a bit over this wonderful Machine. Buying one, might not be an Option as these a not cheap, at least here in Germany. Sending it to you might also no good Solution, because this one is real big. Yes it has been hot here squeeze. I picked up an Elmo Sonic a while back off Ebay. Elmo's are made in Germany so it must be a good one.... It's big enough to do one carb body without the side covers. Ran me somewhere around $200 bucks. Anything bigger, to do a complete bank, was way beyond my budget...
Squeeze Posted June 19, 2008 #47 Posted June 19, 2008 Yes it has been hot here squeeze. I picked up an Elmo Sonic a while back off Ebay. Elmo's are made in Germany so it must be a good one.... It's big enough to do one carb body without the side covers. Ran me somewhere around $200 bucks. Anything bigger, to do a complete bank, was way beyond my budget... Yes Jack, the Elmo's are good Machines. I payed 250 Euros for the cheap chinese and 600 for the used, big Bantelin. That was a real Steal :) On the chinese, we tried to clean an Exhaust Valve from a Diesel Motor and got all the Gunk cleaned away, as well as the Hard Chrome on the lower Valve Shaft. OK, we left it in the Bath for more than one Hour at 50* Celsius and the Valve has had some small Dents in the Hard Chrome before, but nevertheless, impressive.
Dragonslayer Posted June 19, 2008 Author #48 Posted June 19, 2008 Geeze, didn't I put a link to their website in a previous post???? Maybe not... I'm keeping it a secret... Yea Condor I caught the link on Speed Bleeders, Thanks alot, They look like the bomb. I'm gonna order me some of dem. No, the other reference was about ultrasonic cleaners. which may be more bucks than i want to shell out for this project at this time. Guess I just try to soak carbs and cleaning manually.
Dragonslayer Posted June 20, 2008 Author #49 Posted June 20, 2008 Not hard to tell which is Carb #1, huh? That slave cylinder looks like mine did. A dentists pick set (Harbor Freight) works great on cleaning out those grooves. Expect the calipers to look the same. Dan Dan, Just curious what you meant because I noticed that the carbs on the left side were a lot dirtier and greaserir than the carbs on the other side and I'm not sure why.
Dragonslayer Posted June 20, 2008 Author #50 Posted June 20, 2008 Rather than rebuild the one on the '83, I bought a new one from Rick at Buckeye on his recomendation, and that the rebuilds don't last. I think the rebuild kit ran around $30 bucks and a new one ran $64. The reason for all that rust is water is heavier than DOT3 and settles to the bottom of the system and creates micro-pits in the wall of the cylinder. Another reason to bleed the clutch often.... which reminds me... gotta go bleed a clutch... I cleaned up the slave cylinder as good as I could before I realized that the piston walls were pitted up to bad to be usable so I guess I need to get a new one. Anyone want to buy a brand new rebuild kit. Do you have a link to the vendor that had the new part for $64.00 local Yamaha dealer wants $80.00
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