2008 RSV Overheating? (Gen 2)

[Barnacle442]

I have a 2008 Royal Star Venture S. Spring 2021 I replaced the fuel pump. Last spring (2022) I replaced the stator. This spring I replaced the leaking shift shaft seal (with a part I found here, thank you very much.) While taking my victory ride she made the "I'm not getting fuel" noise and came home on a flatbed. I could not replicate this problem at home. She started and ran fine. When the weather warmed up I took her out again to see if it was maybe just bad gas. I stayed closer to home this time. After 10 miles, maybe less, she choked and died again. After 45 minutes or so, I rode her up on to the flat bed. Caveman brain says that she's overheating and vapor locking the pump. So, I am once again riding one of the backup bikes 'til my baby is healed.

Before I go through the ultimate fun of replacing the thermostat and temp switch and associated seal rings, does anybody have any wisdom to share? Anyone have similar experience or words of encouragement?

[skydoc_17]

Hey Ben,

The first thing I would check would be the function of the Cooling Fan! As a rule, these bikes will run pretty close to normal if you were making a highway run because of the air flow over the radiator. Around town, (stop and go traffic) is where your cooling system depends on the flow of the water pump and radiator fan. Are we to assume that the coolant is 15+ years old? 

Another thing to consider is your bike poorly tuned? (Carb. Sync., "Crusty Plugs", gummed up Carbs., etc.) You didn't mention mileage. Even things like low tire pressure will put extra load on the engine while riding, and tax the cooling system. All things to take a look at.

Good luck with this project, Ben!

Earl

[Barnacle442]

2 hours ago, skydoc_17 said:

The first thing I would check would be the function of the Cooling Fan!

I hadn't thought to listen for the fan to be running. I think I'll let her run 'til she's hot and see if the fan is coming on. 

The coolant is new as of last June. I had to disassemble most of the bike to get that stator out last year. I opted to put new coolant in. :O) She's only got 60,000 miles on her. She purrs like a kitten when she's not sick. I keep the tires fresh and properly inflated. I admit I have not changed the plugs. I'm pretty sure it's not the carbs. Throttle response is crisp with no stutters. I ride throughout the year as long as the streets are snow-free, so the gas never sits in the bowls. 

I suppose I shall have to give her a tune-up. once the cooling thing is settled.

[BlueSky]

Maybe the tank isn't venting properly.  If it happens again, remove the gas cap and see if there is a vacuum on the tank.  Just guessing.  

[RDawson]

Cycle the key when it stops, listen if the fuel pump clicks normally. Really sounds like the fuel tank vent is plugged as already mentioned. 

[bpate4home]

I had this issue on my '06. It was a 2 fold issue, The fuse for the fan was bad and then the fuel pump was in the process of failing. 

[Barnacle442]

With the wonderful Northern Illinois weather warming back up I shall begin checking these things. How does one check the fuel tank vent?

[Barnacle442]

So, I stood it up on my scissor jack and let it run. It ran and ran and ran. Eventually it got hot enough for the fan to come on, which it did. Fan works. Switch works. After a little bit the fan stopped running. After another little bit the fan came on. On/off/on/off... Thermostat works. Coolant overflow bottle went from bottom mark to top mark. Coolant level is good. I took the gas cap off and felt for vacuum. I have little sensation in my fingers. I covered the opening with a piece of plastic film and used a glass to hold it against the rubber spill guard. No noticeable suction. I held the throttle at what I assume is about 2500 rpm for a few minutes. No noticeable suction. The fuel pump is only 2 years old so I'm hoping it's not that. I've put nearly 20,000 miles on the bike since I put the fuel pump in and it was working fine when I took it out in February so I know it's installed right. 

So, does anybody have a good method for testing a tank vent and/or fuel pump?

[Barnacle442]

On 4/26/2023 at 5:18 PM, BlueSky said:

Maybe the tank isn't venting properly.  If it happens again, remove the gas cap and see if there is a vacuum on the tank.  Just guessing.  

Where is the tank vent? Is it a vented cap?

[Barnacle442]

On 4/26/2023 at 6:55 PM, RDawson said:

Cycle the key when it stops, listen if the fuel pump clicks normally. Really sounds like the fuel tank vent is plugged as already mentioned. 

I'm afraid to take it out lest I be stranded again. But, I got it good and hot and the fuel pump is pumping away.

[Barnacle442]

On 4/26/2023 at 7:12 PM, bpate4home said:

I had this issue on my '06. It was a 2 fold issue, The fuse for the fan was bad and then the fuel pump was in the process of failing. 

I checked the fuse. It's good. I also got her hot and checked the fan. Fan is working fine. I hope it's not the pump. It's only 2 years old and I don't want to spend that $200.00 again.

[RDawson]

2 hours ago, Barnacle442 said:

Where is the tank vent? Is it a vented cap?

Take the cover off of the ignition switch, you’ll see the hose off the right side front of the tank. 

[RedRider]

In general, the whole fuel pump does not need replaced.  It is the contact points at the rear of the fuel pump.  Do a search on here and you will see some pictures and commentary.

Fuel pump points are available for $30 or so.  Easy to change.

RR

[Barnacle442]

2 minutes ago, RedRider said:

In general, the whole fuel pump does not need replaced.  It is the contact points at the rear of the fuel pump.  Do a search on here and you will see some pictures and commentary.

Fuel pump points are available for $30 or so.  Easy to change.

RR

Thanks. Yes I have experience with the points set. Not good experience, mind. It's part of the reason I had to replace the pump last time. :O)

[InfinitySurf]

20k miles, could definately be the contact points wearing out.... one thing to note is that I have seen fuel pump work fine at idle or just revving the engine but then stop working once you are at hwy speeds since its not able to keep up with the required fuel supply to the carbs. The only tricky part of replacing the points is having a solder iron, if you have one of those its a pretty simple job. If you open up the pump and look at the points you can typically tell what kind of shape they are in, they will start wearing really uneven. I changed out my contact points last summer to prevent an issue since my contacts had some pretty uneven wear. A pic attached showing worn contact points at 28k miles and here is a link from the Facebook Yamaha Royal Star Venture Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/135373523171973/search/?q=fuel pump points

[InfinitySurf]

Oh... here is the item# for the point set you would want to purchase if you decide to go that route. Believe I purchased mine from Ebay

[HermanK84VR]

Hi Barnacle 442

When was the last time you replaced the Fuel Filter? Is there any visible rust in the tank? the Tank Outlet filter could be clogged?

At what fuel level did it start acting up Near full or below half  quarter tank Etc.

if at the lower levels I would pull the Fuel petcock and check the filters and have a look inside the tank for sediment or rust.

Herman

 

[larrydr]

I have been riding since 1964 and had about any kind / sort of bike that is out there .. I have always had to check connections and control systems on any of the bikes I have owned ,,As soon a bikes reaches the 3 year old and older there is a need to check connections , contacts on some of the load bearing contacts and the devices them selves ... will show wear , and sometimes caused by heat  .. I never throw out any parts I may need to re-use , simply because of availability ..

[Barnacle442]

17 hours ago, HermanK84VR said:

Hi Barnacle 442

When was the last time you replaced the Fuel Filter? Is there any visible rust in the tank? the Tank Outlet filter could be clogged?

At what fuel level did it start acting up Near full or below half  quarter tank Etc.

if at the lower levels I would pull the Fuel petcock and check the filters and have a look inside the tank for sediment or rust.

Herman

 

I replaced the fuel filter last spring when I replaced the stator. Not knowing how best to get at all the electrical connections I pulled everything out of that center cavity. I looked at it when I pulled the side cover off the other day to check the pump. It's still clean. There is no rust in the tank. I never let the bike sit with a low fuel level. The first time this happened, Easter Sunday, I had been out riding around town the day before and so I only had about half a tank. The second time it happened I had a full tank. I originally thought it might be the petcock but when I drained the half tank of gas after Easter, it came out into the gas can just fine on both positions.

[Barnacle442]

I pulled the tank collar to look at the vent hose and inspect the vent. The hose is old crusty but not brittle. I blew through it and it is open. I looked in the end of the vent stem and there is a little valve there. It is a one-way valve. This is an overpressure vent. Vapors vent out of the tank through that vent, not in. I don't remember if the shop manual calls out whether or not the gas cap is vented but that is what I will check next. I have experience with that as I have disassembled and reassembled the cap on my 99 Royal Star.

[Barnacle442]

On 4/29/2023 at 6:01 PM, InfinitySurf said:

20k miles, could definately be the contact points wearing out.... one thing to note is that I have seen fuel pump work fine at idle or just revving the engine but then stop working once you are at hwy speeds since its not able to keep up with the required fuel supply to the carbs. The only tricky part of replacing the points is having a solder iron, if you have one of those its a pretty simple job. If you open up the pump and look at the points you can typically tell what kind of shape they are in, they will start wearing really uneven. I changed out my contact points last summer to prevent an issue since my contacts had some pretty uneven wear. A pic attached showing worn contact points at 28k miles and here is a link from the Facebook Yamaha Royal Star Venture Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/135373523171973/search/?q=fuel pump points

WE HAVE A WINNER! Its's raining here so what better to do after a sleep study than tear apart a motorcycle? Seriously, though, The pump is not that hard to get at and the weather is warm. I took apart the back of the pump and my points are indeed roasted. I will again make an attempt at replacing the points. My last foray with these points did not come out well and in frustration I spent the 215 dollars for a new pump. I have a question for you, since you sound like you have greater experience than I with this. How do you get the cap out of the way past that rubber seal that the wires go through? Is there a trick? I don't want to leave it open to the elements.

[Leland]

I got rid of the OEM fuel pump back in '17 and haven't looked back.  This little electronic Facet fuel pump as proven to be very dependable.  The following is from the original thread back in 2017.  If you search the forum there are quite a few posts about this pump.

Replaced the stock pump with the Facet 40178. I drilled and tapped an 8-32 screw to mount, isolated with rubber on back. Screw is located behind the flare nut. As an FYI, NAPA carries this pump under their part number BK 610-2403. Took it for a 50 mile test Saturday and bike ran fine. On my arrival home, I immediately pulled the side cover and the pump was cool to the touch.

 

On a side note, I have a Koso digital volt meter. With the Garmin 550 and XM radio on, I always ran a consistent 13.9 VDC. With the new fuel pump, I am at a consistent 14.0 VDC.

 

[Drews]

Me too Leland back when you did Leland works Great thanks for the help no more problems Bongo Bob was in this one too thanks Drews

[InfinitySurf]

Sorry for the late reply, work has been crazy lately and haven't logged on in a few weeks. You have probably already figured this out or gone with one of the other options given here but here are a couple pictures of when I did mine. I believe this cap in the pics is what you are referring too? I didn't see a way to separate it properly either so I just pulled it back as much as it would go and left it attached while I did the point re-build. Just gotta remove the screws that hold the points to the pump and use solder iron to separate the ground wire and then reverse it all to re-install. I hope replacing the points worked for you if thats the option you decided to use!

I have torn my bike down pretty far the last 2 winters as I wanted to go thru everything to ensure it gives me reliable service for many years and so far the only thing I haven't been able to figure out is why my fuel meter will not work properly... when ignition on the fuel guage gives me the 8 blinks (doesnt read the current fuel level) which in the service manual means the fuel guage assemble (potimeter I think?) inside the tank is bad. I replaced everything inside the tank the 1st time with a new Yamaha OEM part and it did the same thing and still didnt work so I exchanged the part thinking I just got a bad part from Yamaha.... but the 2nd one did exactly the same thing so I guess there is something else somewhere causing the issue tho I havent personally been able to narrow down any other potential issues (When I ohm the wires that all tests good too)... so I just trip my mileage meter each time I fill up. I LOVE how easy this bike has been to work on/upgrade and having this group has been incredible since anything I cant figure out, someone here knows!

[N3FOL]

On 5/6/2023 at 2:28 PM, Leland said:

I got rid of the OEM fuel pump back in '17 and haven't looked back.  This little electronic Facet fuel pump as proven to be very dependable.  The following is from the original thread back in 2017.  If you search the forum there are quite a few posts about this pump.

Replaced the stock pump with the Facet 40178. I drilled and tapped an 8-32 screw to mount, isolated with rubber on back. Screw is located behind the flare nut. As an FYI, NAPA carries this pump under their part number BK 610-2403. Took it for a 50 mile test Saturday and bike ran fine. On my arrival home, I immediately pulled the side cover and the pump was cool to the touch.

 

On a side note, I have a Koso digital volt meter. With the Garmin 550 and XM radio on, I always ran a consistent 13.9 VDC. With the new fuel pump, I am at a consistent 14.0 VDC.

That Facet electronic fuel pump is an excellent alternative to the original.  Knock on wood, I am still on my original pump having almost 65K miles on my '07 and counting.  I will archive this information and when the time comes to replace, this may very well be my next pump unless an OEM part is still available and comparable in price.   Thanks for sharing.