Final Drive/Drive shaft help...

[jrcain32]

I removed the final drive differental to grease the splines while I have the rear tire off and when I removed the 4 bolts and the housing the drive shaft came out from the upper (transmisson) end. Looking up in the shaft tube there is a coupling that the splines slide into. My question is how do I get the shaft back into the coupling? Is there a way to get to the coupling from that end? I am going to try to align the two with a small stiff welding rod but if this does not work is there another way? Is there anything else I need to be aware of?

[SilvrT]

Same thing happened to me and I was concerned at first. Assurances from others on here were that I just needed to wiggle the driveshaft some and it would slide in...and it did! Depending on the angle of the u-joint yoke may cause it to be more difficult. Seems I recall reading somewhere in here about using a wire or something to adjust it.

[gunboat]

there is a little rubber boot /cover on top of the swingarm. pull that boot/cover off. you can use a flashlight to look down in ther to see the u-joint. thats were you can use a cut down clothes hanger. make a hook on one end to '' hook the u-joint''. it's just a matter of

pushing and pulling to get the shaft aligned to slide back in. do not forget to re-install the rubber boot/cover. keeps the dirt & grit and water out.

hope this helps

don c.

[maplehawk]

Why should you need to grease the spline? I believe the manual is wrong to suggest this. There are no rotating friction surfaces requiring grease. A small amount to assist in sliding the shaft (splines) into the mating end should be sufficient. There is no need to grease a key way and splines are the same concept.

 

Am i missing something here?

[Marcarl]

The way I did mine was super easy: put the transmission in neutral, take a look down the tube to see where the U-joint is, and poke the drive shaft at it, once it kind of connects turn the U-joint with the end of the drive shaft as you give it a slight push. Somewhere, before you get to one full turn the whole works will slide together.

The splines mentioned here are the final drive and do need to be greased with a super sticky grease or everything will fly off and wear will happen.

[maplehawk]

Manual contadicts itself see pages 7-84 and 7-91. It calls for Molybdenum disulfide grease on page 7-91 and lithium soap base grease on 7-84. The splines are on the gear box/engine end and I still question the statement to grease this spline?

[Eck]

Take your left side battery cover off for visability and accessability purposes.

You will see that small rubber plug mentioned in the above post on the swing arm..

Just pop the rubber plug out..(You will snap in back in later).

Take a metal coat hanger (or welding rod as you mentioned) and shape it into a small letter "J"

Carefully slip the letter J part into the small hole on the swing arm and by "BRAIL" slip it "around" the shaft coupler that is inside the housing.

You can have someone lightly pull up on the coupler with th ecoat hanger, while your at the rear end with your hands on the drive shaft and slip the drive shaft into the housing and into the coupler while your friend is helping you line it up..

 

 

I always leave my bike in gear when I pull the shaft out, and use the coat hanger to align it back up, but you do not have to leave it in gear as I do. I just find it easier for ME..

[Marcarl]

Manual contadicts itself see pages 7-84 and 7-91. It calls for Molybdenum disulfide grease on page 7-91 and lithium soap base grease on 7-84. The splines are on the gear box/engine end and I still question the statement to grease this spline?

If it's a spline there will be movement, where there is movement there should be grease or oil or something.

[wizard]

Be sure to grease both ends of the drive shaft. It will pull out of the differential. I found it was also easier to insert the motor side into the u-joint first, then mount the pumpkin on the shaft.

[maplehawk]

Can anyone clear up the issue as to which grease should be used. see earlier post about the manual errors

[1BigDog]

I used a good black moly high temp grease on mine. Greasing the splines makes the assembly quieter. Yamaha is notorious for using very little to no grease on the splines and eventually you will get a clicking sound from back there. The shaft is press fit into the pumpkin, not bolted in. Place something soft under the pumpkin and give the shaft a sturdy pull and it should seperate. Make note of the spring inside the rear end portion of the drive shaft and make sure you re-install it. Dont ask me how I remember this step....

Also, before you tighten the pumpkin (4 bolts) to the shaft tube slip in the rear axle minus the wheel to align the pumpkin properly. Lightly tap around the mating point to get it into position then torque your bolts. The rear should be properly aligned now.

 

While your in a slippery mood you may also want to remove the rear wheel spline and clean the rust off of the fingers, grease it lightly and re-install. A circlip holds it in.

 

As far as the factory manual goes, there are several errors in there. Just wait till you try and sync your carbs per the manual...

[1joeranger]

Been reading everything I can regarding the maintenance for the drive shaft. Little confused on the two type of greases mentioned?

 

Molybdenum disulfide grease is what? Is that the Honda Moly60? Which applications would you use it for?

 

 

Lithium soap base grease is what? What brand is recommended? Which applications would you use it for?

 

Hate being ignorant! Thanks!!

[GeorgeS]

Put it this way, Bearing Greese !!! Greese the Spline Forward end, Aft End, And the large splines in the Rear Drive.

 

Greese Everything, and do it often!! Don't worry about what kind of greese, just be darn sure you Greese It !!!!

 

Every time you Replace your Rear Tire, GREESE EVERYTHING !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

---AND AS LONG AS YOUR AT IT !!! Look at the bottom of your Rear Suspension Shock absorber-- There are 3 Long bolts mounted horizontally, for the Suspension Linkage-- Find them, Remove them, Clean them, and GREESE THEM ALSO !!

( don't argue about this, just do it ) You might find that the bolts are all corroded, and the bushings are in about the same condition. If so, Replace, and you can also Install ZERK Fittings for these bolts, so in future you can keep them " Greesed !! "

[dingy]

Been reading everything I can regarding the maintenance for the drive shaft. Little confused on the two type of greases mentioned?

 

Molybdenum disulfide grease is what? Is that the Honda Moly60? Which applications would you use it for?

 

 

Lithium soap base grease is what? What brand is recommended? Which applications would you use it for?

 

Hate being ignorant! Thanks!!

 

Below are a couple of links to lubrication related pages.

 

First one deals specifically with motorcycle drive shafts.

 

2nd one is more general, but it does define the Lithium soap base grease.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Shaft.html

 

 

http://www.reliabilityweb.com/art04/understanding_grease.htm

 

Gary

[1joeranger]

Thanks Dingy, I know am a little more knowledgable regarding Honda Moly60 and lithium soap grease! If I understood what I read you would use the soap in high temp applications such as the splines in the drive shaft? What is a popular brand?

[Condor]

Can anyone clear up the issue as to which grease should be used. see earlier post about the manual errors

 

There is movement in the spline. Every time the rear suspension works up and down the spline will move in and out of the u joint. As the lube dries out the spline teeth and cogs will start to wear. Although very minute there is a bunch, unless you're riding on an absolutely smooth surface, and we all know that ain't gona happen.. Hope this helps...

[skydoc_17]

Jack is absolutely correct about the movement of the splines on the end of the drive shaft in conjunction with the up and down movement of the swingarm! So far I have seen 3 First Gen. drive shafts ruined and 2 Second Gen. drive shafts ruined because of lack of lube. I have also seen 2 worn drive shafts "blow-up" the U-Joint coupler as a result of lack of lube. ANY TIME I remove a rear wheel on any shaft drive bike, I use the Honda Moly60 on the drive shaft and rear wheel splines. EVERY TIME. When I perform a rear end/final drive service it includes grease to the drive shaft,(both ends) the rear wheel splines, and the final drive gear oil changed. I also remove the drive shaft from the final drive to install it into the U-Joint,(it pulls right out) Then install the final drive to the geared end of the drive shaft. EVERY Second Gen. I have done rear end service to has been "dry" on the drive shaft splines and rear wheel splines.

There is GOOD NEWS about NOT lubing the splines on the drive shaft and the rear wheel splines and changing the final drive gear oil, if you ride a lot, the final drive will most likely Completely Fail BEFORE the 5 year warranty is up and the dealer will replace it for free! Unfortunately, the 2 Second Gens. I worked on were out of warranty and the cost burden was on the owner!

If you got more money then time, then ride on brother! I'll leave the shop lite on for ya'!

Earl

[bald josh]

how much lube will last for just outside the warranty??? keep hearing how stingy yam is with the lube, makes you wonder. G.D'it dont be so stingy with things that cause so many problems for the folks that buy your product. they are beautiful machines. do them justice from the onset....

[1joeranger]

Good input all! Now if someone could just answer the questions!

[Freebird]

I think that most of us here use the Honda Moly 60 for the splines and everything else on the drive shaft.

[1joeranger]

Sorry for being so dense here! If I understand everyone the Honda Moly60 is used whether Molybdenum disulfide grease or Lithium soap base grease is mentioned? I keep thinking they were two different products.

 

Thanks All!

[ediddy]

I am the expert on rear drives. I am on the sixth rear end. The last time I thought I was having problems with the rear end yamaha sent a factory rep to look at my bike. He said the rear splines were dry and he sent the service manager of the yamaha dealer to the honda dealer to buy some honda moly 60 grease. The yamaha factory rep said everytime you replace the rear tire to regrease with honda moly 60. He didn't say to use any other grease.

[1joeranger]

Finished my tire change the other day and thanks to all the fine contributions to this website I was able to grease the tire splines, and the final drive shaft with the Honda Moly60! I was even able to reinstall the final drive shaft 1st time correctly using the coat hanger trick several had mentioned! It is such a good feeling to know that my rear is as up speed maintenance wise as I can make it! I am not sure I would have attempted this without all the fine support received here. THANKS!!

[N3FOL]

 

---AND AS LONG AS YOUR AT IT !!! Look at the bottom of your Rear Suspension Shock absorber-- There are 3 Long bolts mounted horizontally, for the Suspension Linkage-- Find them, Remove them, Clean them, and GREESE THEM ALSO !!

( don't argue about this, just do it ) You might find that the bolts are all corroded, and the bushings are in about the same condition. If so, Replace, and you can also Install ZERK Fittings for these bolts, so in future you can keep them " Greesed !! "

 

This part of the job is something that I need to remind myself.

 

My question is...to remove the '3 Long Bolts', do I have to do something with the shock itself while the bike is up on the jack/stand? Are the bolts easy to remove? What I can probably do is to just clean around the bushings and apply grease and then clean the bolts and apply grease. (during my rear tire change)