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Posted

Hi Everyone

I have been out in the garage every nite this week as my Wife is Baby sitting for Friends at their house for the week. I now have all the Major frame components sprayed with a fresh coat of Gloss Black Caliper paint, I have been using VHT brand paints for most of my projects as it has very good coverage and is High Heat and Chemical resistant. 

I have 2 good coats over all the parts; tomorrow after work I will flip over the frame and just need to apply a top coat on the 2 top pipes 

Friday Morning My buddy is coming over to help me put the engine in the frame then I will continue to re-assemble.

I had my new tires installed today and many parts orders arrived including my new Plug wires and Iridium plugs from Fortnine.

So the question posed by MarCarl on what to do about the swingarm bushings. I measured the Swing arm sockets and the internal Diameter of the bolts or Sleeves depending on what Pivot point.

The worst Bushings were the 2 that are on either side of bottom shock mount of the smaller Steel swing arm link these measure 22 mm on the swingarm socket and the internal Diameter is 18 MM,  I have found a source in Canada for metric Bushings but have yet to get a response as to availability of the sizes needed. However My solution at this point is to take some SAE Bronze bushings that are readily available 7/8 OD x 5/8 ID, I will need to turn down the 7/8 (metric value is 22.225 mm) to the 22 mm to fit the swing arm socket then drill the ID from 5/8(16mm ) to the 18mm finish diameter (drill bit should be here tomorrow) drill a hole in the side of the Bushing slightly larger than the Grease nipple to allow grease to be pumped in, press this into the Socket and we should be good for a long time.

The Flanged bushings of the larger Aluminum swingarm link that attaches to the bottom side of the swing arm is 23-24 mm sleeve with internal diameter of 18 MM these bushings have very little play in them so I am not going to change them at this time  just because of my time constraints to complete the build, however i will be adding grease nipples to these points as well.

All remaining Bushings appear to be in decent shape with little to no play, the Swing arm Pivot bearings just require a good cleaning and repack of good bearing grease and should be good for a long time yet.

as always see pictures of the progress all thoughts and comments are welcomed.

Have a good nite

Herman

 

 

 

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  • Like 4
Posted

Just a suggestion, but I would advise to let the frame cure for a couple of weeks at least. The paint may feel dry and hard but it will take a bit of time to fully cure. Putting the engine in is going to cause a bit of stress on the new paint.
I also would be interested in what sites you founds the bushings.

Nice job so far, lots of work but will be very satisfying.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi Marcarl

The main site I found that had the largest selection of metric Sizes is Mi Motion (motioncanada.ca) they are an industrial supplier. these are not Plastic bushings like the original these are Bronze bushings.

I would say once the swingarms are drilled and tapped with Grease nipples and these Bronze bushings installed they would outlast the life of the bike.

With regards to the paint Normally I would wait but I am on a time crunch to finish the Bike at least a week before we head to the 100th anniversary of Laconia this June so I can run some miles on the bike before the trip to work out any kinks and dial in the single carb.  Besides I have been maintaining 17-18 degrees all week in the garage with the electric furnace so that is keeping the dampness down and helping cure the paint. The paint I am using is VHT Hi Temp Caliper Paint directions say Paint must be dry for minimum of 2 hrs before vehicle can be driven (when applied to a brake Caliper)

I pulled the Forks apart tonight to clean up the lower fork tubes and replace the seals and install the new progressive springs, The lowers recd a coat of Gloss black as well to complete the Blacked out frame. The lowers were just starting to pit where most of the factory clear was gone so a light sanding with 240 that smoothed out pitting then a couple coats of the gloss black.

I will post additional pictures tomorrow Night 

Herman

 

 

Posted
9 hours ago, HermanK84VR said:

Hi Marcarl

The main site I found that had the largest selection of metric Sizes is Mi Motion (motioncanada.ca) they are an industrial supplier. these are not Plastic bushings like the original these are Bronze bushings.

I would say once the swingarms are drilled and tapped with Grease nipples and these Bronze bushings installed they would outlast the life of the bike.

With regards to the paint Normally I would wait but I am on a time crunch to finish the Bike at least a week before we head to the 100th anniversary of Laconia this June so I can run some miles on the bike before the trip to work out any kinks and dial in the single carb.  Besides I have been maintaining 17-18 degrees all week in the garage with the electric furnace so that is keeping the dampness down and helping cure the paint. The paint I am using is VHT Hi Temp Caliper Paint directions say Paint must be dry for minimum of 2 hrs before vehicle can be driven (when applied to a brake Caliper)

I pulled the Forks apart tonight to clean up the lower fork tubes and replace the seals and install the new progressive springs, The lowers recd a coat of Gloss black as well to complete the Blacked out frame. The lowers were just starting to pit where most of the factory clear was gone so a light sanding with 240 that smoothed out pitting then a couple coats of the gloss black.

I will post additional pictures tomorrow Night 

Herman

 

 

It will be interesting. Thanks for the link.

Posted

I have a pic in my head of my ol' 84 being naked like that about 15 yrs ago... thankfully not THAT many upgrades!

Good job Herman, it'll be fun when yur dun!

Posted

Hi Everyone

Here is an update on the Bronze Bushing replacements and Installation in the Lower control arm. The Challenge is finding the Metric Sizes we need for these Swingarms the worst bushings were the 2 that are in the small swingarm link that connects at the Shock lower mount and and the Larger swingarm link. The remainder of my bushings were fine. the 2 on the Larger swingarm link to the swingarm rear mounting points had some wear but was not critical.

I have added grease nipples to all 5 points and they are now well packed with grease and the 2 bushings are now Bronze bushings. To accomplish this I purchased from Princess auto a pack of 4 Bronze bushings OD7/8x5/8ID, $14.00, placed this on a 3/8 bolt with washers and put it in my drill press, with the drill press spinning this assembly I used a large flat file to gently mill down the bushing to the required 22MM OD, only need to remove roughly .225mm off the 7/8 OD, once that was done I was able to press in the bushing into the swingarm using my bench vise.

Next Step clamp the swingarm into your drill press vise, square it up to the Drill bit then drill the bushing with an 18mm drill bit (amazon purchase $17) go slow using lots of oil.

Last thing is to drill and tap for a grease nipple this can be done before or after you drill the bushing to the 18mm.

Now an update to the Build my buddy came over to help get the engine mounted in the Frame and I must say it is much easier to install the frame over the engine then muscling the engine into the frame I built a wooden Engine holder out of 2x6 so we could get the engine off my Engine stand and sitting on the Bike lift we then picked up the bare frame and easy peasy engine was bolted in with the new delrin mounts within an hour. We then started reassembling the rear swingarm components and Final drive and Rear wheel with the new Tire. 

I then started to work at replacing the head bearings and seals, it blows me away how so many MC owners neglect this critical component the Bearings were seized the bearing races were beat to death and not a bit of grease left on the bearings.  The bearing Race removal was a bit of a chore as there is now discernable lip on the back side of the race to tap out the old race, so next best thing was to weld the old bearing to the race then pop it out worked like a charm. 

Front end will be put back together tomorrow as we are heading to family for the day 

Happy Easter all

Herman

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  • Like 2
Posted

Hi Dano

When I first purchased the bike roughly 5 years ago I signed up on this great site and researched thru all the info on this site and basically toke all the advice and recommendations then decided what I envisioned for my project, I am the type of guy that likes to work on things and make them my own so for me the upgrades serves multiple purposes it revives an old bike , I am using modern materials that improves reliability and safety, it also tests and improve my abilities and workmanship. because it is an older bike it is simple in its functionality and easily modified even with all its advanced electronics of that day, as an electronics Technician the wiring and electronics do not bother me.

I have always worked on my own mechanics of my cars Snowmobiles and boats and Motorcycles and enjoy the work.

Did I need to do all the upgrades, No , but when I look at the age of the bike and during planning I will always plan to replace wearable parts , brakes, bearings, bushings, seals, hoses, brake lines etc. because you just do not know if the previous owner actually maintained things. the other reason is I have the Tools, ability and garage space to perform this restore/upgrade so why not, much more fun then sitting on the couch watching the tube.

take care 

Herman

  • Like 2
Posted

Hi Everyone

I  wrote an update on Sunday Nite but for some reason it did not post,

I spent the first hour or so going over the Bolts installed the previous day to confirm I did not miss any and checked for correct Torque, refilled the Final Drive with new 80w90 gear oil. 

I spent some time test fitting the Vmax Silicon Hose set I purchased off amazon and made a list of Hoses and clamps I need in order to replace all the hoses on the Bike. Only one hose was too short for the Top Rad to the Fan Sensor tee, but I was able to source a piece of hose at a local Industrial hose supplier,  the other issue I ran into was the Hose Diameter was about 3mm larger and the Spring Clamps would not go On the Hose so I found a kit on amazon with the larger Clamps I need.

Also finished putting the Head bearing races in the Frame and Mounted the Triple Tree and then went to work on assembling the Front forks. 

Finished up Sunday Evening by Polishing the SS Exhaust Pipe I built and cleaned up and polished the Front Cylinder Pipes.

Monday Morning I was off to the Hose Supplier to pick what I needed, then back in the garage.

First order of Business was to install the Exhaust on the Bike, then I went to work on making the Block off plates for the Front forks and gave them a coat of Paint to match the new Black Lowers. Replaced the Clutch Slave Hose and re-installed the Steel Clutch Line on the frame and installed the new Speed bleeder.

Filled the forks with new Synthetic Fork oil by Amsoil (10wt) as suggested by Progressive, installed the Springs then closed them up. Changed out the front Axle Seals and checked the bearings they were clean and  turned smooth with no play so I opted to leave them and repacked them with bearing grease then installed the  Front wheel. The bike is now back on both Wheels with new tires.

Went to work on dismantling the rear subframe to get it prepared for a fresh coat of paint, and the day was done.

Toke the Nite off from the Garage tonight as I feel like I am coming down with a cold so I will get some rest over the next couple nights and go back at the bike on the weekend.

I am hoping to get the remainder of the Mechanical work complete over the weekend with the front and rear subframes re-attached, rebuild the 3 brake calipers, and finalize all the different plumbing, hopefully test fire the Engine again to fill the engine with Antifreeze.

That is it for now

have a great week all

Herman

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  • Like 3
Posted
On 4/8/2023 at 7:14 PM, ReinyRooster said:

I love reading and seeing these projects being done. I don not have the skills to do any of this so I find it very interesting.

Right there with ya. 

Posted
On 4/8/2023 at 8:04 AM, HermanK84VR said:

Hi Everyone

Here is an update on the Bronze Bushing replacements and Installation in the Lower control arm. The Challenge is finding the Metric Sizes we need for these Swingarms the worst bushings were the 2 that are in the small swingarm link that connects at the Shock lower mount and and the Larger swingarm link. The remainder of my bushings were fine. the 2 on the Larger swingarm link to the swingarm rear mounting points had some wear but was not critical.

I have added grease nipples to all 5 points and they are now well packed with grease and the 2 bushings are now Bronze bushings. To accomplish this I purchased from Princess auto a pack of 4 Bronze bushings OD7/8x5/8ID, $14.00, placed this on a 3/8 bolt with washers and put it in my drill press, with the drill press spinning this assembly I used a large flat file to gently mill down the bushing to the required 22MM OD, only need to remove roughly .225mm off the 7/8 OD, once that was done I was able to press in the bushing into the swingarm using my bench vise.

Next Step clamp the swingarm into your drill press vise, square it up to the Drill bit then drill the bushing with an 18mm drill bit (amazon purchase $17) go slow using lots of oil.

Last thing is to drill and tap for a grease nipple this can be done before or after you drill the bushing to the 18mm.

Now an update to the Build my buddy came over to help get the engine mounted in the Frame and I must say it is much easier to install the frame over the engine then muscling the engine into the frame I built a wooden Engine holder out of 2x6 so we could get the engine off my Engine stand and sitting on the Bike lift we then picked up the bare frame and easy peasy engine was bolted in with the new delrin mounts within an hour. We then started reassembling the rear swingarm components and Final drive and Rear wheel with the new Tire. 

I then started to work at replacing the head bearings and seals, it blows me away how so many MC owners neglect this critical component the Bearings were seized the bearing races were beat to death and not a bit of grease left on the bearings.  The bearing Race removal was a bit of a chore as there is now discernable lip on the back side of the race to tap out the old race, so next best thing was to weld the old bearing to the race then pop it out worked like a charm. 

Front end will be put back together tomorrow as we are heading to family for the day 

Happy Easter all

Herman

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Might I suggest you also put a fitting on the shock mount? When I did my 85 the bolt/pin was worn badly and I had to get a new one made, Yamaha no longer stock those either.

Posted

Hi Everyone

I did not get to work on the bike much since last week, the head cold turned into some sort of upper respiratory Infection lots of Coughing up of stuff , fever and Headache. Spent Friday , weekend and today feeling like crap.

Did manage a couple hours in the garage yesterday and part of the afternoon today, I managed to get the Rad Hoses installed and Rad mounted so I am ready at anytime for Anti-freeze/Coolant, Re-installed the Coil Bracket and coils and installed the new Plug wires and Iridium Plugs. 

Installed all the remaining misc Hoses   Vacuum Pulse Hose Breather Hose(also installed the Baja Air filter) all new Fuel lines from the Tank outlet to filter -new filter- from Filter to Pump then new line from the Pump to the Carb all visible hoses are sleeved with SS Braid Put all new Spring and Screw clamps. I found these 2 kits on Amazon both kits were under $20 ea Nice to have in the shop

Installed the Fuel tank and rear subframe started to finalize the Forward controls on the Right side then ran into a snag the new master cylinder Banjo Bolt threads are different M9x1 versus Yamaha M9x1.25 Hopefully i can source one locally and then ran out of steam.

I have also included a Picture of the Russell Brake lines I am using these are Factory made and DOT certified  for US/Canada . 

as always here are some pictures to update you all on the progress.

Have a good Night

Herman

 

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  • Like 6
Posted

Hi Everyone

Picking away on getting things done on the Bike Installed the Handlebars last nite with the new Krator Risers Not sure if they are set at their final position but they are on and Ready to have the controls mounted.

Now have the new forward control Rear Brake master permanently installed after retapping the Outlet for the M10x1.25 banjo the hole was originally M9x1 and near impossible to find a Banjo to fit it one of the joys of Amazon.

Started to rebuild the Rear caliper and found out the AllBallsRacing Rebuild kit only has the Piston and Dust seal for 1 side so now I need to order a second also missing was the rubber washers that are in between the 2 halves so i have contacted the manufacturer we will see if they respond.

that is it for today

Herman

 

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  • Like 5
Posted

Been great reading what you have done and enjoyed the pics.  If you are ever in Ontario (Kitchener/Brantford area) with the bike would be great to see it in person.  Amazing work and project !

Posted
12 hours ago, XV1100SE said:

Been great reading what you have done and enjoyed the pics.  If you are ever in Ontario (Kitchener/Brantford area) with the bike would be great to see it in person.  Amazing work and project !

Even if it's without the bike - let us know. Great excuse (not that we need one ) for a meet and greet.

Posted
On 4/20/2023 at 6:24 AM, HermanK84VR said:

Hi Everyone

Picking away on getting things done on the Bike Installed the Handlebars last nite with the new Krator Risers Not sure if they are set at their final position but they are on and Ready to have the controls mounted.

Now have the new forward control Rear Brake master permanently installed after retapping the Outlet for the M10x1.25 banjo the hole was originally M9x1 and near impossible to find a Banjo to fit it one of the joys of Amazon.

Started to rebuild the Rear caliper and found out the AllBallsRacing Rebuild kit only has the Piston and Dust seal for 1 side so now I need to order a second also missing was the rubber washers that are in between the 2 halves so i have contacted the manufacturer we will see if they respond.

that is it for today

Herman

 

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Did the brakes on an 84 here, and found that AllBalls kit as you say. The front ones though have both sides in the one kit. For the rubber flat cut o-rings I could not find anybody who made them or the size, so I went to a local brake rebuilder and he said just to use normal o-rings, at least that is what he would do and he said it would work just fine, so that is what I did. Now the manual says not to slit the caliper, I wonder why?

Posted

Hi Everyone

Another productive weekend on the Bike Build I have the Front Subframe and Dash assembly back on the Bike and Got to work adding the New Controls and Masters onto the Handlebars I was able to Fish the wires inside the Handlebars so the only things that will be outside are the throttle cables and Clutch and Brake hoses.

Now that all the plumbing is complete I filled the rad with Coolant and found 1 small leak on the Lower Pipe that slips into the bottom of the Thermostat housing I pinched and damaged the O-ring when I installed it. tore it back apart and put in a new O-ring and all was good. Fired up the engine to purge the air and so far all is good Temp came up just under the half way mark on the Gauge so all is good.

Sorted out some of the wiring so I can adapt the new controls in and now it is just a matter of cutting and Splicing the wires I will re-purpose the Radio control switch to use for the venture Cruise.

Replaced the old Fuse Block with a new ATC blade Fuse 12 Fuse Block This will be relocated in the left fairing along with the Ignition module. Also extended the main fuse Wire to the New Fuse Block to have the Main 20A fuse in the new Fuse block as well.

Went to work on the Headlight Frame and Bezel to Fit the new LED Headlight it is Nice and Bright.

Video attached is the bike Idling at about 750-800 RPM

Thanks for all the Comments so far.

Herman

 

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  • Like 2
Posted

Hi Everyone

Finally got a response back from AllBalls Racing with respect to the Rear Caliper rebuild kit, basically telling me I need to order a second kit which I already had done, but still no answer concerning the Rubber seals between the 2 halves, fortunately these 2 seals are not exposed to weather because they are sealed in -between the two halves and are still pliable.

I have a couple of o-ring kits but what I have that are thick enough to seal are a bit too large in diameter or if I drop a size to fit the diameter they are not thick enough so it will compress to seal. I will try a couple suppliers to see if I can find anything if not I will clean up the originals and re-use if I have to.

Herman

 

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