Fuel pump - rewiring Question

[M471MPY]

HI All,

First post here! 

I am currently restoring a 2000 RSV that's had a hard life being sat outside in the elements and not ridden for 3 years. The wiring was already chopped up and all the radio and stereo equipment removed (badly) and all relays were toast. The aim is to strip it to bare bones and have a bobber/chop.

The best option was to create a new loom but using a Ultima plus loom as the base. 

The Ultima loom doesn't have a power source for the fuel pump, so I have used an Aux feed (fused) to run the pump. 

Question: does the fuel pump have a built in pressure cut off? It will have constant 12v power from the turn of the key. I don't want to flood the carbs!

All help appreciated!

[Papa Fred]

Welcome aboard.  Members here will freely share experience and tips, as I have found over the past 5 years.  Here's a thought on the fuel pump..they are generally trouble free and from what I can tell, are regulated to deliver fuel only when needed.  They are "on" when you turn the key on, and you will typically hear it pumping when initially powered up.  The points in the pump have been known to act up, and some members have taken them apart to replace or freshen up the points.  Another route to go is to replace the pump with either a similar pump, or an electronic pump (no points).

I installed a Facet Electronic pump last year ( part #40178) and it works flawlessly.  The thing to watch with whatever pump you use...other than OEM... is the fuel pressure the pump will deliver.  I don't remember the PSI right now, but it's in the low single digit range.  With a bit of creative plumbing, mine fit into the original pump location, is powered by the OEM wiring, and like the OEM delivers fuel as needed.  Another fuel related suggestion is to get rid of the OEM fuel filter and install a see-through filter in a more visible location.  Many have put it under the seat, between the battery box and the gas tank.  The bike frame tubes widen out just behind the tank rear mounting bolt to form the cradle for the seat.  There's a perfect filter-sized space there..much easier to check than the OEM filter location.

A final hint...if you don't do this already, shut the fuel off under the tank whenever you aren't riding.  If whatever pump you end up using has a failure which allows fuel past it into the carbs, you run the risk of filling up the cylinders with gas... hydrolocking.  Bad expensive things happen when you hit the starter.

Good luck with the project.