Where to find a fuel pump

[Pop]

I am restoring an 87 Venture Royale starting with the carbs. But also the fuel pump won't cycle at all. It does have voltage to it. I am having trouble finding a replacement fuel pump to buy. Any suggestions? 

 

[cowpuc]

1 hour ago, Pop said:

I am restoring an 87 Venture Royale starting with the carbs. But also the fuel pump won't cycle at all. It does have voltage to it. I am having trouble finding a replacement fuel pump to buy. Any suggestions? 

 

You check its contact points @Pop? its a fairly easy fix if the contacts are burned, maybe even just cleaning the points up a little would do it. You take it apart? Its easy.. It looks like the pump for the 83/85 is still available but not the 86 up, not sure what the difference is ( https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/26H-13907-01-00?ref=ef9e7a0d9064b6453969f22330dde325402862cd ).  I have a couple spares from old MK1's sitting around. Matter of fact, I got one that sat in my tool kit in my bikes for years that I no longer need cause I cant ride. $35 shipped and its yours. It is used though.. To be honest,, in over 1 million miles I never had to buy a new one, just keep the contacts clean. These MK1 pumps seem to be way more durable then the Gen 2's.. No idea why as I never had the honor of owning a Gen 2. I would be more than happy to snap some pics of the MK1 pump so you could compare fittings, both electrical and fuel line diameter. You know, something just dawned on me. I was trying to help someone figure out why the fuel filter he ordered had the wrong size inlet/outlet.. I wonder if Mom Yam upped the size of the fuel line on the MK2's and he was getting MK2 filters.. Hmmmmm.. @skydoc_17, you got a suppy of contacts that would fit the MK2 if Pops needed one? 

Edited July 1, 2022 by cowpuc

[Pop]

Yea, I had seen in my searches that the contacts were the main culprit. I did take it apart as far as I could and looked at the contacts. Didn't know what to look for. They weren't stuck. So, when you turn the key to on the pump should click a few times? I had it mounted and grounded but with input and output ports open, no hoses attached. Measured 12v at the connector. So just use fine sandpaper on the contacts? If that doesn't work I would like to try different points first then your used pump.

You've ridden a million miles? I will definitely subscribe to your channel. I watch youtube every day and never knew about your channel.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Pop,

On Ebay, Caltric sells a brand new unit for $50 +/- a few. I have installed them a few times with no issues. Here is the link:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291760653742

I have attached a pic!

Hope this helps,

Earl

 

 

 

[Pop]

Tried Caltric. They took my order, said it was shipped then sent me a refund saying it was not available.

[RDawson]

I used a Mr Gasket pump from Oreilly’s on my 1st gen. Took a little plumbing but worked. 

[cowpuc]

5 hours ago, Pop said:

Yea, I had seen in my searches that the contacts were the main culprit. I did take it apart as far as I could and looked at the contacts. Didn't know what to look for. They weren't stuck. So, when you turn the key to on the pump should click a few times? I had it mounted and grounded but with input and output ports open, no hoses attached. Measured 12v at the connector. So just use fine sandpaper on the contacts? If that doesn't work I would like to try different points first then your used pump.

You've ridden a million miles? I will definitely subscribe to your channel. I watch youtube every day and never knew about your channel.

What I look for is burned contacts, not necessarily burned together. What happens is they arc long enough that the contacts get enough icky built up on them that they can no longer get continuity thru the contacts due to resistance. The current thru the contacts is what energizes the solenoid in the pump that moves the fuel. Yes, when you get 12vdc across those contacts they are suppose to "click" as the solenoid is energized over and over to pump the fuel. There are interlocks in the fuel pump electrical system though that will interrupt the current flow to the pumps. One is your kill switch, with the bike turned on and the kill switch turned off the pump will not "click" or run. I use the kill switch interlock all the time to fill my carbs before trying to start it. I do that by toggling the kill switch on and listening to the fuel pump cycle thru one cycle, it will along run for a couple seconds. Then I toggle the kill switch off and back on again to make the pump run for another cycle. I keep doing that until the bowls are filled and the float valves shut off the fuel to the carbs and the pressure builds in the system and turns the pump off. If you listen carefully the "clicking" will slow down greatly before it shuts off indicating that the bowls are full. I have found my bikes start easier on cold start with the bowls full. All that said, you should be able to short across the contacts with a screw driver and hear/feel the solenoid engage if you have voltage there, this would check to see if the solenoid itself is locked up. If the solenoid fires cleaning the points with a points file (I am an old school points/condensor guy that has found sand paper and contact points never worked well). By all means, replace the points before going with a different pump @Pop, like I was saying, these early pumps have proven to be VERY durable. 

Yes,, over 1 million miles on Yamaha MK1 Ventures. Been on them since 1987. It has taken six (6) of these 1st Gens to get there though. My kids did a LOT of touring with me when they were little and after they grew wings and flew the coup my wife, Tip, began riding with me. If you do go to youtube, click on my name, go to my videos and sort by "oldest 1st" as they are hundreds of vids there that are so old now they wont show up on a normal, newest 1st run. Be glad to have you, hope you find something there to enjoy! Puc 

heres one to get you started lol 

 

Edited July 1, 2022 by cowpuc

[Pop]

Contacts looked ok. I used a steel emery board on them but it did not help. I hooked it up to it's connector and grounded it to the chassis. I turned the key on to supply 12v. The 12v wire to the pump goes down into the body and the ground wire to the pump frame. There is a red wire coming up from the body connecting to the top of the contacts which I assume should be the 12v. With my volt meter I measured from the red wire to the bottom contacts which are on the grounded pump frame and got no voltage. What does that tell me?

[cowpuc]

2 hours ago, Pop said:

Contacts looked ok. I used a steel emery board on them but it did not help. I hooked it up to it's connector and grounded it to the chassis. I turned the key on to supply 12v. The 12v wire to the pump goes down into the body and the ground wire to the pump frame. There is a red wire coming up from the body connecting to the top of the contacts which I assume should be the 12v. With my volt meter I measured from the red wire to the bottom contacts which are on the grounded pump frame and got no voltage. What does that tell me?

Just to double check, with the pump unplugged, you attach the positive lead of your ohm/volt meter to the positive connector inside the terminal on the wire harness and touch the negative lead from your ohm meter to the frame and you get 12vdc, right? What if you do the same only touch the negative lead from your ohm meter to the bottom set of contacts in the pump that leads to frame ground? Does it show 12vdc? If so the loss of continuity has got to be between the + terminal to the contacts. Its seems..