FutureVentures Posted May 28, 2008 #1 Posted May 28, 2008 Ok, this wasn't supposed to happen, yet! Radio has been on the blink for a week or so, working occasionally, not at all others, for minutes at a time.... Took off seat last night to inspect cables under the backrest, all seemed fine there. Rode in to work today, ran like a champ, radio still on the fritz. Riding home tonight, have gone maybe a mile and boom, it dies while in motion. No warning, just conks out. Thought it might be fuel, though I filled recently, switch to reserve, nada. In fact, no lights, NOTHING! Oh except of course, the radio control has power! What the hell? The only thing with any lights/power at all is the radio control on the handlebar. Otherwise, it's dead. Looked at fuses under seat, all are fine, none blown. Didn't get a chance to look at other fuses. Had it towed to local dealership. Just when the weather had warmed up too. Ideas anyone?
flb_78 Posted May 28, 2008 #2 Posted May 28, 2008 Yep, you lost your ignition switch. Cost ya about 118 bux from Zanotti's with shipping. I just did mine last week.
Freebird Posted May 28, 2008 #4 Posted May 28, 2008 I agree with the ignition switch. No uncommon and you describe exactly what happens. There is a write-up in the tech library showing how to temporarily bypass it.
FutureVentures Posted May 29, 2008 Author #5 Posted May 29, 2008 I agree with the ignition switch. No uncommon and you describe exactly what happens. There is a write-up in the tech library showing how to temporarily bypass it. Ok, I'm going to look in the tech library. Yes, I did check the kill switch, repeatedly. Even with the kill, killed, the lights come on. They didn't. Whoa, so the ignition switch can just die en-route and that's it eh? Weird. Thanks. Will let the shop know tomorrow about this, if they don't already. Any chance this coulda been affecting my stereo too? Guessing not.
flb_78 Posted May 29, 2008 #6 Posted May 29, 2008 Any chance this coulda been affecting my stereo too? Guessing not. Yep, it'll affect the radio. All the electronics run through that itty bitty switch.
SaltyDawg Posted May 29, 2008 #7 Posted May 29, 2008 Kill Switch. Check and see if RickH can get it for you at http://www.buckeyeperformance.com In the mean time you can do the bypass as Freebird suggested.
FutureVentures Posted May 29, 2008 Author #8 Posted May 29, 2008 Kill Switch. Check and see if RickH can get it for you at www.buckeyeperformance.com In the mean time you can do the bypass as Freebird suggested. Is it the kill, or ignition switch? Or, are those one in the same? Thanks
Squeeze Posted May 29, 2008 #9 Posted May 29, 2008 Is it the kill, or ignition switch? Or, are those one in the same? Thanks No, they're not the same. The Kill-Switch(e.g. Run/Stop) is in the right Handlebar. The Ignition Switch is worked by the Key and this is what seems to be the Problem on your Bike.
GigaWhiskey Posted May 29, 2008 #10 Posted May 29, 2008 Who needs a dealer when you get answers - and this quick too!
Gene-b Posted May 29, 2008 #11 Posted May 29, 2008 Is it the kill, or ignition switch? Or, are those one in the same? Thanks It has to be the IGNITION SWITCH! And yes, when it stops working, it stops working! The bike will stop running and you will be sitting on the side of the road. Been there, done that! Gene
Freebird Posted May 29, 2008 #12 Posted May 29, 2008 I agree...it very likely the ignition switch...the one that the key goes in.
FutureVentures Posted May 29, 2008 Author #13 Posted May 29, 2008 Yeah, this site is awesome! Can't believe how quick the answers come, accurate too! Bike is at shop, doesn't open till 10am. Will be calling them at 10:01 telling them exactly what the problem is. Since this one sounds like a bugger to replace, I'll let them do it this time. Next, I need to get a cheap/effective method of towing this beast. Then, hope I never need to use it! Thanks again all. Will update you as this progresses.
Freebird Posted May 29, 2008 #14 Posted May 29, 2008 You'll be faced with another potential issue. You could end up with two keys now. One for the ignition and one for the bags and etc. There are two ways around this. 1. Make them remove the key mechanism from the old switch and install it in the new one. Then you will continue using the original key. 2. Get a key blank. Have one side of the key cut to match the new key and the other side cut to match the old key. Then it will work both, depending upon which way you insert it.
SaltyDawg Posted May 29, 2008 #15 Posted May 29, 2008 Is it the kill, or ignition switch? Or, are those one in the same? Thanks LOL sorry I am lesdixic it's the Ignition Switch. For some reason kill just came out.
FutureVentures Posted June 1, 2008 Author #16 Posted June 1, 2008 Yup, it was the ignition switch! Sure felt nice when I confidently told the mechanic I knew the cause, before he did. Felt even better when I was right. So, bike starts/runs just find now. However, radio is STILL on the blink. Most the time it isn't working, other times it spontaneously comes to life, scaring the bejeesus outta me. Mechanic thought it was/is the antenna needs replacing but, I dunno. If that were the case, the MP3 would work, but it doesn't. Well, at least it runs now, thanks again! Next repair, hope to do myself. Between the tow and repair, $530 smackers, ouch.
Freebird Posted June 1, 2008 #17 Posted June 1, 2008 Very likely the connectors inside the fairing causing the radio problems. You will need to split the fairing. On the right side you will see 5 connectors maybe 3/4" - 1" in diameter. Unplug and plug them back in several times to wipe away the oxidation that is likely causing the problem. Then use a bit of dielectric grease and plug them all back in again very well. That will probably cure the problem.
FutureVentures Posted June 2, 2008 Author #18 Posted June 2, 2008 Very likely the connectors inside the fairing causing the radio problems. You will need to split the fairing. On the right side you will see 5 connectors maybe 3/4" - 1" in diameter. Unplug and plug them back in several times to wipe away the oxidation that is likely causing the problem. Then use a bit of dielectric grease and plug them all back in again very well. That will probably cure the problem. Roger, willco! Sounds like the plan and the fix. Now, I just gotta go find some dielectric grease, whatever/wherever that is. I'll hit Wally mart, Pep Boys and Napa, sure to find it somewhere. Thanks again.
slick97spirit Posted January 8, 2009 #19 Posted January 8, 2009 My switch seems hard to get into position or sometimes out of the lock setting. After reading these posts I'm wondering if mine is going bad. I was wondering about the by-pass. If it's installed, is the key still used or do you just use the by-pass from then on. Do you guys leave that switch on permanently? I'm thinking about doing the mod. but unsure about the key use afterwards.
Sleeperhawk Posted January 8, 2009 #20 Posted January 8, 2009 You'll be faced with another potential issue. You could end up with two keys now. One for the ignition and one for the bags and etc. There are two ways around this. 1. Make them remove the key mechanism from the old switch and install it in the new one. Then you will continue using the original key. 2. Get a key blank. Have one side of the key cut to match the new key and the other side cut to match the old key. Then it will work both, depending upon which way you insert it. Read above to solve the issue of having dual keys
Riderduke Posted January 9, 2009 #21 Posted January 9, 2009 Read above to solve the issue of having dual keys Thanks George I'm going to call them today
Condor Posted January 9, 2009 #22 Posted January 9, 2009 What's the deal with these 2ndGen ignition switches. It's like a plague... One of those rites of life... It's so bad owners need to carry around a by-pass kit just in case. Yamaha could have done better than that.. I can't remember hearing about a 1stGen switch taking a dive. What are they building them out of tissue paper???
Eck Posted January 9, 2009 #23 Posted January 9, 2009 What's the deal with these 2ndGen ignition switches. It's like a plague... One of those rites of life... It's so bad owners need to carry around a by-pass kit just in case. Yamaha could have done better than that.. You would think by now Yamaha would offer a "recall" and replace for free... ops..what am I thinking..
Sleeperhawk Posted January 9, 2009 #24 Posted January 9, 2009 What's the deal with these 2ndGen ignition switches. It's like a plague... One of those rites of life... It's so bad owners need to carry around a by-pass kit just in case. Yamaha could have done better than that.. You would think by now Yamaha would offer a "recall" and replace for free... ops..what am I thinking.. They do, called "Replace under warranty after customer drags the #@#@ machine in for repair"
Squeeze Posted January 9, 2009 #25 Posted January 9, 2009 What's the deal with these 2ndGen ignition switches. It's like a plague... One of those rites of life... It's so bad owners need to carry around a by-pass kit just in case. Yamaha could have done better than that.. I can't remember hearing about a 1stGen switch taking a dive. What are they building them out of tissue paper??? I'd like to see and inspect two or three of these bad Switches and could tell what's the Cause of the Failure. Some mentioned there's too much Current through the Switch and by wireing a Main Power Relay into the Circuit it can be solved. I've heard not enough Voices and not seen actual Damage to create an Opinion about that.
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