Just got an 1984 Venture Royale 1200 - She's in need of Carburator help and WAS starting on choke only before I cleaned it - old gas too.

[Solace]

Hey all, this is the video where I learned a LOT from, buddy breaks down the carb and rebuilds them. 

 

[UK_in_NY]

4 hours ago, Marcarl said:

My recollection is that I run into the same issue some years ago, and discovered at the time that it goes with the gasket as you indicate. It really doesn't do much good in the curved body of the carb throat in MHO. Not only that, but it looks weird.

OK thanks. I think you are right. To OP, you may want to look at this!??

[Solace]

Here she is put all back together. Clearly I have something still wrong, going to double check carb tuning, failing that, gota check the choke circuit - had to start her today with quick start. Once she is warm it's SUPER easy to start. 

But she rides, she's mine, and I got years to make her shine.

[Marcarl]

2 hours ago, Solace said:

Here she is put all back together. Clearly I have something still wrong, going to double check carb tuning, failing that, gota check the choke circuit - had to start her today with quick start. Once she is warm it's SUPER easy to start. 

But she rides, she's mine, and I got years to make her shine.

I would say it's running on 3. 2 cylinders. The 'popping' that you hear is when it fires on all 4. As far as starting cold with no choke is an indicator that it is running rich. A choke, or in this case a fuel enrichment valve is there for a reason, and that is to get it to start when its cold. Something still not working right on 1 jug I think.

 

[Solace]

Hey just to finish this post choke is working great, just not as I expected. Hold choke and start bike for maybe 3 seconds and she starts right up and I can drop choke.

right on!

 

[Marcarl]

On another look at your tool, I think I see little valves at each gauge do I not. If you close those valves down they will act as restrictors.

[Solace]

Yep they do, in this video I had already adjusted the carbs so didn't care about the flappy needles!

[saddlebum]

You just slowly close them down until the needle stops pulsing

[Pasta Burner]

I may be wrong because I’m new too, but I believe this is what It should sound like.  87 VR 33k

 

 

[Marcarl]

4 hours ago, Pasta Burner said:

I may be wrong because I’m new too, but I believe this is what It should sound like.  87 VR 33k

 

Sounds about right

[Solace]

Hey guys, I'm back - trying to get her all fine tuned and proper! However, I CANNOT get the sync to be all 4 the same. This is the closest I've gotten, and at the very worst I've gotten rid of the slight backfire sound. 

Anyone got some insight here? It's actually harder to start now than what it was when it was "willy nilly" lol -- one slight tap on the starter and she booted up but had a little backfire. Now I gota give some throttle and 4 seconds while HOT to boot.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 26, 2022 by Solace

[BlueSky]

About all I remember is that there is a certain sequence that you have to follow.  

[cimmer]

Here is a carb sync guide using a carb tune instead of the gauges you have but it might help you.. 

It appears to me that the 2 gauges on the left, maybe carbs 1 & 2 are not pulling any vacuum at idle or when you rev them up. If  you look at the 2 gauges on the right you will see they are pulling vacuum at idle and that is what should happen with all of them. I would want to see the vacuum at idle in the green area of the gauges.  You might need to play with the pilot screw adjustments on the carbs and see if that makes a difference or you might have some clogged air passages in those carbs. There is a cleaning trick some of the Vmax guys use called shotgunning the carbs to clean them up without taking them off the bike. Vacuum pressure at idle speed is 33.3kPa (250mm Hg, 9.84 in Hg).  I am not sure what your gauges are ready but this is what the service manual for a 86-93 Venture has listed.  Vacuum Sych Difference is 1.33 kPa Hg (10mm Hg, .04 in Hg)..  You can find a copy of the service manual for the 83-85 Venture in the tech library and that might be of assistance to you also.

Good luck

Rick F.

[Solace]

Thanks all will report back later

 

[Marcarl]

Follow the sequence to the letter. First of I think is the rear left, it doesn't have a sync screw and is only adjusted to set the idle and that would be the 'hidden' thumb screw between the 2 carbs and is your base carb.. Set that to 900rpm, then the other carb on the left side needs to pull the same vac. It seems you have that about right. Always keep the idle at 900 or you will change the vac draw as you go, and that is done by adjusting the idle screw only on the left side. Now comes the fun part on the right side, which screw does what. Look closely at the linkage, one carb is linked to the left side, the other has a link going to the other one on the right side. First sync the right side together, keeping the idle at 900, then adjust so that the right side 2 come together with the left side, always going back to adjust to 900rpm.

[Solace]

OK Thanks guys, makes sense I have it kinda in my head what to do, just need to make my hands do it which is the harder part

 

[Solace]

Pic #12 shows the location of the "B" and "C" screws. Screw "B" is used to adjust the right two channels of the Carbtune, and Screw "C" is used to adjust the left bank of two Carbs. (Cylinders #1 and #2) to the right bank of Carbs. (Cylinders #3 and #4)

Ahhh! I was doing this wrong, with this information I'm sure I can get it dialed in.

[saddlebum]

Basiclly it looks like you have the pairs synced up ok You just need to sync the left pair with the right pair. Sequence is not as important as it seems, to simplify, there are three screws involved 1 on the left and 2 on the right and they sit between the carbs set in and slightly below the diaphragm covers. They control the external linkage that connects the carbs together. So starting on the left adjust that screw until both carbs on the left are in sync, at this point ignore the right pair. Next move to the right side you will now see the 2 were on the left there is only 1. adjust the front screw until the the two carbs on the right side are in sync with each other, ignoring the left pair (by your video this is were you are at now ). Finally using the back screw on the right side adjust until the left pair is in sync with the right pair. You may have to repeat the sequence more than once but stick to the sequence you will eventually get there if the carbs are in proper condition. P/S during the process try to maintain idle speed between 900 to 1000 rpm. The adjusting screw for this is a small knob between the the left carbs. Once you have them set burp the throttle a couple times than recheck.

Edited May 27, 2022 by saddlebum

[Solace]

42 minutes ago, saddlebum said:

Basiclly it looks like you have the pairs synced up ok You just need to sync the left pair with the right pair. Sequence is not as important as it seems, to simplify, there are three screws involved 1 on the left and 2 on the right and they sit between the carbs set in and slightly below the diaphragm covers. They control the external linkage that connects the carbs together. So starting on the left adjust that screw until both carbs on the left are in sync, at this point ignore the right pair. Next move to the right side you will now see the 2 were on the left there is only 1. adjust the front screw until the the two carbs on the right side are in sync with each other, ignoring the left pair (by your video this is were you are at now ). Finally using the back screw on the right side adjust until the left pair is in sync with the right pair. You may have to repeat the sequence more than once but stick to the sequence you will eventually get there if the carbs are in proper condition. P/S during the process try to maintain idle speed between 900 to 1000 rpm. The adjusting screw for this is a small knob between the the left carbs. Once you have them set burp the throttle a couple times than recheck.

Thanks! This is basically what I had in mind to perform, heading out shortly to give a whirl

[Solace]

Here's what I was able to figure out: You can totally sync the carbs by ear to a large degree. 

It turned out that my gauges say right on them that a possible air leak may be detected if no reading is being found, and infact I found a house that goes to these weird boxes beneath the CDI's. Hooked that up and boom I'm getting 3/4 gauges and they're all happy. Bike starts and runs good, but not *perfect* as I still have that 4th gauge that is crazy.

Upon lifting the air box I can see that carburetor is going nutty, I'm wondering if something internal didn't seat right, perhaps that little tiny o-ring I mentioned previously on like page 3, might have to ensure that sealed correctly. I also have an exhaust header leak from when I bottomed out getting her off the trailer. But if I had a back-pressure issue I'm sure carb 2 would be outa whack as well, so I'm lead to believe it is infact the carburetor with some small airleak. Maybe that diaphragm is toast after all, luckily my new kit arrived.

She also blows a lot of backfire as seen here. So I'm getting WAY closer to perfection and it's been a blast

 

[Solace]

It was this hose here that was making carb 3 show up crazy on the sync tool -- so yeah if you're getting CRAZY readings, it's an air leak.

[Solace]

Exhaust header needs to be re-attached

 

 

[Solace]

She's also blowing smoke out of this area, which I think are another set of headers? I haven't done exhaust work yet.