Josh Williamson Posted January 27, 2022 #1 Posted January 27, 2022 Has anyone experienced a bad ignition switch causing the bike to misfire or spit and sputter or even cut dead when accelerating? ive replaced fuel pump and filter and had carbs overhauled and synced and replaced plugs with New ones. I know my ignition switch is bad for sure! when I crank it up it struggles to start but once it warms up it will idle pretty good but if I give it throttle it will either die or spit and sputter wasn’t sure if the ignition switch could cause these issues?
SpencerPJ Posted January 27, 2022 #2 Posted January 27, 2022 Guessing this is on your 08 RSV. I owned an older venture, 83, but there has been many posts with ignition switches causing all sorts of grief. Other smart guys will be along, but spend some time with search and you will find a nighttime of reading. Good luck. 1
Freebird Posted January 28, 2022 #3 Posted January 28, 2022 As said, a lo of people have had to change the switches on the RSV. I don't know if I've seen your specific issue with spitting and sputtering though. Usually they just won't start and you lose all the dash lights and etc. It's typically the contacts in the switch that are burned up or badly pitted.
Marcarl Posted January 28, 2022 #4 Posted January 28, 2022 If you have a known issue, then clean that up first, then you can go looking for more without having to wonder if maybe, just maybe one issue plays on another. 1
Josh Williamson Posted January 28, 2022 Author #5 Posted January 28, 2022 That’s my plan now Probly shoulda done that first 🤦🏼♂️ But it just seemed like more of a fuel issue I never thought the ignition switch would cause issues like this. but I guess we will see I’ll be replacing the ignition switch this week crossing my fingers that works.
larrydr Posted January 28, 2022 #6 Posted January 28, 2022 I have had many bikes with issues at the ignition switch come to my shop and after checking the current load on the switch ..At least in my opinion either the switch was being over loaded either by a device or bad connection . 1
RedRider Posted January 28, 2022 #7 Posted January 28, 2022 So a search on here for an ignition switch bypass circuit. It is fairly easy to implement (and remove back to stock). This would be much simpler and cheaper than changing out your ignition switch just to see if that's the problem. RR
videoarizona Posted January 28, 2022 #8 Posted January 28, 2022 When I had my ignition issues, it turned out to be a secondary set of contacts on the ignition switch. It was a pain for me to get it out, but once there, I found the contact issues and did the repair. I posted my travels on that journey so go look me up and look through what I did. I also did buy the ignition switch bypass and install it just after I bought the scoot.. david https://www.venturerider.org/forum/topic/69641-engine-cranks-no-ignition-no-error-codes/#comment-799310
Josh Williamson Posted January 31, 2022 Author #9 Posted January 31, 2022 Ok replaced ignition switch still no luck 🤯🤯 it will crank and idle for short periods of time but acts like it’s not firing on all 4 ive checked each plug by holding it against the engine and they all apear to be firing🤷🏼♂️
uncledj Posted January 31, 2022 #10 Posted January 31, 2022 I'm not NEARLY as knowledgeable as some of the "Old Timers" on here, but I can't help but wonder about the health of the ignition coils or the ....what is it...???.....TCS module?. I seem to remember that the coils can become cracked and act crazy, and the TCS is a mysterious black box...
Marcarl Posted February 1, 2022 #11 Posted February 1, 2022 Pardon me for asking, but is this a new switch or a used one?
Josh Williamson Posted February 1, 2022 Author #12 Posted February 1, 2022 I put a brand new switch on it. im thinking I may need to test my CDI box?? if gotten it off can anyone explain to me how to test it?
Marcarl Posted February 2, 2022 #13 Posted February 2, 2022 Before going through the CDI routine take off the air boxes and while it running spray some carb cleaner or brake clean or even WD40 into the intakes. If you notice an improvement through this process then you have a fuel issue, not an ignition issue. 1
saddlebum Posted February 2, 2022 #14 Posted February 2, 2022 (edited) Sometimes you will find a case were a spark will jump the plug gap in the open air but it is not strong enough to spark under compression. Get yourself one of those adjustable spark testers they are cheap (not the enclosed ones). but similar to one of these. Widen the gap to I believe about 5/8 of an inch a strong spark should jump that you can open the gap more to see how wide you can go before it will no longer jump the gap. If you do use an inline spark tester I believe the spark should be able to jump a 1/4 inch gap. If all four pass this test than your CDI unit should be in good shape. Also try cranking the bike or (even running) in the dark and look for stray sparks (in the trade we call them Christmas lights) You can even mist water over the plug wires to enhance the effect. If you see any stray arcing along the plug wires or plugs than they need to be replaced. Don't forget to check the coils as well in the same manner to determine if it is carbon tracking or cracked. Edited February 2, 2022 by saddlebum 1
videoarizona Posted February 23, 2022 #15 Posted February 23, 2022 (edited) I would also look for an intermittant ground issue ....check all grounds on the electrical system. Download manual from this site and look though the electrical schematics. Loosen and clean all ground contacts. You are having an intermittent problem... Those can be grounds. It could also be a broken or frayed wire in the ignition cut out system. In order for the coils to fire, all sorts of switches and connectors must be working. The signal to fire the coils goes all over: The Kickstand switch, roll over switch, emergency shut off switch and so on. Do one thing at a time. Something may be shorting out Last, Test each coil by manual. Eventually you will figure it out. Keep us posted. Edited February 23, 2022 by videoarizona Sp
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