New venture rider(maybe)

[Bubblezdamunky]

Hi guys I'm a new member that just signed up. I don't know if I'm putting this thread in the right location but if I'm not admins please move it if not allowed.

 I'm an intermediate level experienced writer with about 5 years of rider there's a ridong I've been riding a Harley sportster up until recently and I want to enter the touring bike community. I've been doing a lot of research a lot of it on this forum actually And I really like the sounds of the 99 to 13 venture. I am actually going to look at 1 on Saturday and my question is this. The one I'm looking at is a 1999 and it has 13000 miles. That tells me this bike has been doing a very good amount of sitting. When I go to look at this bike what are some of the things I should specifically be looking at. I'm sure I'm going to have to replace coolant hoses and flush out every fluid that in that bike over the Winter. But what other things get damaged on these bikes from sitting and not being run? Is that low of a mileage something to run away from or does it just mean a little more work I have to put in over the Winter?. I'm a mechanic by trade specifically for trains though I know maintenance terms and I do my own maintenance on my Harley early so I'm kind of sort of knowledgeable about most aspects of bike maintenance.. Thanks in advance for any answers

Edited September 30, 2021 by Bubblezdamunky

[Freebird]

In my experience, the biggest things will be the age of the tires, if they are original or even replace early on, they are likely way out of date and will need to be changed.  The next thing is the carbs.  Unless it has been stored very well, they will likely have to be gone through.  Jets may well be gummed up, floats may be sticking, etc.  Then as you said, the fluids will need to be changed.  Coolant hoses and etc. may or may not be bad.  If it has been sitting a long time and even if it hasn't been, the rear shock may be leaking oil.  A lot of them had the seals go bad even when not sitting.  There is a member here who can rebuild it cheap or maybe even tell you how to do it.  They are great bikes and if it's in good shape, will be worth the effort if the price is right.

[BratmanXj]

Brakes Brakes Brakes....  Just like the tires, the rubber lines can dry-rot as well.  There's reasonably prices braided stainless options available on this forum.  At minimum, flush fluids and new pads.

The clutch diaphragm springs are notorious for getting weak.  If you feel a slipping clutch at higher RPMs its mostly likely a bad spring and fairly easy to replace.  With that low a mileage your friction plates are good and replacements springs range from $40 to $140 for the Barrnett pressure plate (that I believe is overkill).

Clutch is hydraulic, check the slave cylinder for leaks.  Left side between the clutch cover and the trans cover, you can see a rubber flap but behind the base of the rear cylinder in my attached photo.  Again, not expensive but could be a potential shifting/slipping issue on a bit that's sat.

The engine cooling fins are "fake" bolt on items and there are rubber cooling plugs under them.  If you see coolant sitting on base of the cylinders don't be to alarmed.  The plugs are inexpensive and and a quick fix.  You can see  the little rubber & brass insert's at the base of the front & rear cylinders in my photo.

[Bubblezdamunky]

4 hours ago, BratmanXj said:

Brakes Brakes Brakes....  Just like the tires, the rubber lines can dry-rot as well.  There's reasonably prices braided stainless options available on this forum.  At minimum, flush fluids and new pads.

The clutch diaphragm springs are notorious for getting weak.  If you feel a slipping clutch at higher RPMs its mostly likely a bad spring and fairly easy to replace.  With that low a mileage your friction plates are good and replacements springs range from $40 to $140 for the Barrnett pressure plate (that I believe is overkill).

Clutch is hydraulic, check the slave cylinder for leaks.  Left side between the clutch cover and the trans cover, you can see a rubber flap but behind the base of the rear cylinder in my attached photo.  Again, not expensive but could be a potential shifting/slipping issue on a bit that's sat.

The engine cooling fins are "fake" bolt on items and there are rubber cooling plugs under them.  If you see coolant sitting on base of the cylinders don't be to alarmed.  The plugs are inexpensive and and a quick fix.  You can see  the little rubber & brass insert's at the base of the front & rear cylinders in my photo.

 So it seems like what you and other people are saying is there's nothing I should be particularly looking for that's a major deal killer. Seems like all the things you guys are mentioning that go bad from it sitting are fairly Inexpensive things to worry about.  As far as the brakes I'm probably going to need to redo them anyway he did say that the rear brakes feel a bit spongy to him which tells me it probably needs new rear lines and a fluid flush. I am also eventually planning on redoing the whole brake system in the front and doing what I've seen a lot of people on here do By putting roadstar Warrior breaks on the front with HH pads and stainless steel lines. As far as the fuel system he old system he said he recently replaced to the fuel filters. But it probably wouldn't hurt me to check the synchronization of the carbs. But it sounds like from everything I'm hearing as long as the bike runs well shifts well. There's no reason that I shouldn't go for it. Thank you guys for your advice

[BlueSky]

The rear brakes on these bikes are overly strong.  They don't need any beefing up if in good condition.  

[Bubblezdamunky]

1 hour ago, BlueSky said:

The rear brakes on these bikes are overly strong.  They don't need any beefing up if in good condition.  

 That's what I've heard that's why if anything I would just change out the lines put better pads on them And flush the fluid. The big break upgrade I'm talking about is the front end. Pretty much every review I've ever read said that the only 2 complaints about this bike are that it's top heavy and kind of hard to  Handle at low speeds which I guess I have to get used to. And that the front brakes are really weak compared to the rear but a lot of people have said that putting that putting R1/R64 roadstar roadstar Silverado/Warrior orier calipers on the front as well as switching the master cylinder bring the front brakes up to where they should be

[RDawson]

Don’t put aggressive pads on the rear, they lock way too easily. I run organics on the rear. 

[sldunker]

Check the floor of the trunk for cracks. The early 99's where lacking support washers and some of the trunks cracked.

[BlueSky]

I don't consider my RSV to be top heavy.  The steering is stiff at low speeds but some have put a narrower tire on the front to resolve that issue.  I'm 5'10" with a 29" inseam.  

[Woody]

10 hours ago, BlueSky said:

I don't consider my RSV to be top heavy.  The steering is stiff at low speeds but some have put a narrower tire on the front to resolve that issue.  I'm 5'10" with a 29" inseam.  

you can also lower the triple tree and it is like adding power steering, but be careful in a parking lot because it is so easy to turn you will go full lock before you know it. I know 🙄

[saddlebum]

Even though the ventures are top heavy and mostly noticeable at crawl  speeds you soon learn how to use your body to counter balance EG: don't lean with the bike as much as you would with a bike that has a lower center of gravity but let the bike lean under you as you would a tall MX bike. You'll figure it out quick enough. The other time you will notice it is standing still in which case if its going over Get out of the way. If your tall you can try and slow it down but no point in trying to stop it completely.

[videoarizona]

I lowered my forks about 1 inch on the triple tree. Made a big difference in low speed handling. I'm running stock front tire. I like the added width for stability at 75mph on windy days. Make sure you turn the Schrader valve pointing out to make it easier to get to... to air the shocks.

When she starts getting hard to find neutral, time to change oil. 

I've hit the rear brake to hard and locked up. Scary. Went to organic pads.

R1 brakes in front are very good change! Or any of the other Yamaha big bike front brakes that fit.

The only think I can add, is don't short shift this motor. It's a high revving V4. You will get the best performance and fuel mileage by staying in upper rpms. I use 4th most of the time on State roads between 40 and 65mph. In high winds, I'll shift down to 4th and cruise all day at 65/70. Won't hurt a thing. Don't need a tach, just listen to the motor. I've hit the limiter so many times, we are friends at this point! Seriously, it's a really nice motor...for many reasons. To me, the only downside is the crap gas with the carbs. I counter that with Seafoam or Techron once in a while. Especially if not riding for a month or so. 

Get a hand pump for shocks. I run 5lbs in front and 25 in rear. 

Oh....browse through the tech sections. Lots of good stuffing hiding out there! 

Enjoy the scoot!!!

 

 

Edited October 2, 2021 by videoarizona
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[Bubblezdamunky]

You guys have given me so much great advice I would like to thank everyone here. So I went to go see the bike today the thing was in a maculate condition. The guy selling it to me basically said that he had bought it from an old family friend and he didn't say this much but I'm very much getting the vibe that the guy passed away. So he either bought or just took possession of it and and his plan was to spend last whip to fixing it up and then start writing it however he says personal life and taking care of his daughter Prevented him from doing so so he was just selling it to get what money he put into it back. He says that he basically flushed out all the fluids that were in it already because he can confirm the guy beforehand had it for several years and rode  it all of 2 times.  It runs very well starts right up with no problems though it was on the warmer side today at 70ﾟ. Shifts smooth though can be slightly tricky at times to find neutral. I stalled it out a couple times while trying to  Go from a stop up hill. I don't think that was the bike at all I think that was me just needing to learn where this clutch grabs and get used to this particular motorcycle because I'm very much used to my sportster which is a completely different ride. With all of that considered I bought it I am now the proud owner of a 1999 Royal star venture I have an appointment Monday to to get it straight legal and then begins my new life with my new machine

[RDawson]

Congrats. Great bikes 

[luvmy40]

Congratulations!

 

Compared to the Sportster, your RSV is going to feel a little sluggish off the line, but throttle response at highway speeds will surprise you. Keep in mind, you don't want  to ride it like a Harley. Keep the RPMs up until  you are at cruising speed. Then remember you will want to down shift for jack rabbit passing. It will lug out from low RPMs but she'll complain about it!

 

Oh yeah, DO NOT USE V-Twin oil in her! The wet clutch doesn't like friction modifiers. Some of the cool kids run Rotella maybe with some Lucas additive.

 

BTW,  

Edited October 3, 2021 by luvmy40

[Bubblezdamunky]

5 hours ago, luvmy40 said:

Congratulations!

 

Compared to the Sportster, your RSV is going to feel a little sluggish off the line, but throttle response at highway speeds will surprise you. Keep in mind, you don't want  to ride it like a Harley. Keep the RPMs up until  you are at cruising speed. Then remember you will want to down shift for jack rabbit passing. It will lug out from low RPMs but she'll complain about it!

 

Oh yeah, DO NOT USE V-Twin oil in her! The wet clutch doesn't like friction modifiers. Some of the cool kids run Rotella maybe with some Lucas additive.

 

BTW,  

 

5 hours ago, luvmy40 said:

Congratulations!

 

Compared to the Sportster, your RSV is going to feel a little sluggish off the line, but throttle response at highway speeds will surprise you. Keep in mind, you don't want  to ride it like a Harley. Keep the RPMs up until  you are at cruising speed. Then remember you will want to down shift for jack rabbit passing. It will lug out from low RPMs but she'll complain about it!

 

Oh yeah, DO NOT USE V-Twin oil in her! The wet clutch doesn't like friction modifiers. Some of the cool kids run Rotella maybe with some Lucas additive.

 

BTW,  

 You're absolutely right where are my manners I should have posted pictures yesterday. But I was so busy getting things squared away with getting an appointment at the DMV and shopping for insurance. Well that's what she looks like just ignore or the missing Leg faring panel on the right side that's sitting on the floor of my garage I have that off to get to the fuse Box cause I'm waiting for my cell phone mount/charger to arrive

[HeavenlyHomesteadLA]

Man, that's a nice color!