What Happened???

[HeavenlyHomesteadLA]

I don't know what happened. My bike got me to work just fine. I have had no indication that anything was going wrong electronically. When my shift was over oh, and I tried to start the bike... I've got no power to headlights, gauges, or ignition. Battery and fuses ok. Brand new stator and voltage regulator. The stereo turns on and plays plenty loud. My little LED light bar on the bottom of the motorcycle turns on and is plenty bright. But I cannot get the bike to start.

What happened???

2000 Yamaha Venture 

[circa1968]

Couple of questions: 

1) Does the odometer work when you turn the ignition to on?

2) Do the blinkers and/or horn work?

Here's a link to the electrical diagram:  https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf

Lot's of possibilities, but coming off the ignition switch, the stereo and aux power are on their own circuit, so sorta good news there in that hopefully not a bad main switch.  The odometer is fused directly off the main fuse and should be working.  The blinkers and horn, based on your symptoms are most likely not working.

You may have a bad main switch or a problem with the wiring coming off of it, either @ a connector or broken wire itself.

[Marcarl]

Kill switch?

[HeavenlyHomesteadLA]

That wiring diagram is VERY helpful! Thank you!

This explains why all the fuses are still ok. Must be one of the wires supplying power to that fuse box.

HOWEVER, the odometer was not working either. But nothing was lighting up on the dash (gauges) at all. None of the buttons or switches on the handlebars did anything: horn, blinkers, hazard lights, start button, etc... 

I'll get in the service manual and find out how to get to the main switch and see if I can find out what's going on.

Has anyone else ever experienced and fixed a problem like this? I remember when I first bought this bike there was someone on the forum selling an ignition wiring harness to fix a common issue with these Yamaha Ventures. But I can't remember if it had anything to do with what happened to me last night.

[HeavenlyHomesteadLA]

Looks like, according to that wiring diagram, in the top right corner, there is a Br/L wire that sends power to the fan, head, signal, and ignition fuses in fuse box #2. I'm thinking that's the wire I need to look for. But what does "Br/L" look like??

According to Google, it could be Brown with a Blue tracer. Does that sound right?

[M61A1MECH]

Yes, brown with blue stripe or tracer should be correct.

[circa1968]

6 hours ago, Marcarl said:

Kill switch?

That was my first thought too, but I confirmed on my bike that all the other stuff, lights, etc would still work.  But still worth checking.

[circa1968]

5 hours ago, HeavenlyHomesteadLA said:

Looks like, according to that wiring diagram, in the top right corner, there is a Br/L wire that sends power to the fan, head, signal, and ignition fuses in fuse box #2. I'm thinking that's the wire I need to look for. But what does "Br/L" look like??

According to Google, it could be Brown with a Blue tracer. Does that sound right?

See the left side of the diagram for the color code/chart, but yes, Brown/Blue.  How certain are you that the battery is good?  I could be off base on this one but possible that it has enough juice for the stereo, but not for the rest of the stuff.  The odometer not working is odd as that is fused before the main switch.  That's what has me wondering about the battery.

[HeavenlyHomesteadLA]

I've had a dead battery on this bike. I've had the stator go bad in the middle of a ride... at night. I know what this bike looks like when it's out of juice. But I haven't tested it yet...

[larrydr]

6 hours ago, Marcarl said:

Kill switch?

I might surprised to know how many times the switch is not checked 

[saddlebum]

Was the bike in gear with the kickstand down or did you simply shut the bike off by putting the kickstand down while in gear and leave the key in the bike in the on position ( this one cost me few beers when I had to go back into the bar to get some able bodied chaps to push start me )

Check battery voltage and then watch how much voltage drops when you try to start the bike. If it does not drop at all you have a wiring or switch issue maybe even a bad starter with an open internal circuit, .

If it drops of severely you likely have a battery issue or possibly  a starter with seized bearings or internal short.

If the relay does not make a click sound you may possibly have a bad starter relay starter relay or fault in the primary starter circuit. try jumping across the two big posts on the the starter relay.

Here is a brief guideline I devised and give my apprentices to do quick check of the starting system before tearing things apart.

Starter and electrical issue diagnosing.pdf

Edited September 13, 2021 by saddlebum

[Condor]

I wonder if it isn't just the battery...  I had one go out on me in Thermopolis WY on the way to Cody.  Driving thru town all the dash started to flash on and off and then the motor just died.  Luckily I had a head of steam and coasted into an apartment parking lot... right across the street from a Southern Auto.  Checked the AGM batt voltage and it was 10.8vdc.  Deader than dead.  Went across the street to Southern and bought the only wet cell they had and rode the rest of the way to Cody.  But it wasn't the battery.  It was the rectifier.  I did bring a new rectifier and @dano installed it for me before heading home.  Worked great.  And the Deka AGM took a charge over night and was good as new.  So...maybe??

[circa1968]

7 hours ago, saddlebum said:

Was the bike in gear with the kickstand down or did you simply shut the bike off by putting the kickstand down while in gear and leave the key in the bike in the on position ( this one cost me few beers when I had to go back into the bar to get some able bodied chaps to push start me )

Check battery voltage and then watch how much voltage drops when you try to start the bike. If it does not drop at all you have a wiring or switch issue maybe even a bad starter with an open internal circuit, .

If it drops of severely you likely have a battery issue or possibly  a starter with seized bearings or internal short.

If the relay does not make a click sound you may possibly have a bad starter relay starter relay or fault in the primary starter circuit. try jumping across the two big posts on the the starter relay.

Here is a brief guideline I devised and give my apprentices to do quick check of the starting system before tearing things apart.

Starter and electrical issue diagnosing.pdf 384.55 kB · 2 downloads

What he said! 

But I'm pretty sure the lights, etc would still work if the kickstand was down, while in gear.  Same as if the kill switch was open.  It just wouldn't turnover.

[Pasta Burner]

different year and my odo is analog so that’s of no help but similar circumstances it was my starter switch.

[HeavenlyHomesteadLA]

Thanks for all the info. THIS is what forums are for!!

I will put some time into it tomorrow and see if I can figure this out...

[HeavenlyHomesteadLA]

So when y'all say "starter switch" ... you're talking about the button I push to start the bike, right?

I'll have to admit, the wires on my handlebars look awful! Too much sun maybe. I wouldn't be surprised if the problem is on the handlebars somewhere. I just didn't realize power ran thru that starter switch before getting to the front of the bike. Normally, just turning the key will light up the gauges and headlights.

But I'll take a look at:

1) Battery voltage

2) The starter switch

3) Try to find that Brown/Lt. Blue wire that's supposed to carry power from the fuse box to the lights/gauges.

Thanks again!

[Pasta Burner]

Yes the actual button you push to crank the starter.  On mine anyway, the headlight powers Off when the button is pushed and the engine cranks.  Mine was just all gunked up with 30 years of nasty and quit doing what it was supposed to do.  A little TLC and I’m back in business.

Edited September 19, 2021 by Pasta Burner

[HeavenlyHomesteadLA]

I found the problem but I'm not quite sure how to fix it. That brown/blue wire and connector are fried for sure. But connected to that brown/blue wire... on the other side of the connector... is a thicker blue wire which is ALSO fried at the plug for the starter relay. I'm attaching all the pictures I can. The brown/blue wire is supposed to run power to the fuse box that goes to the headlights, ignition, etc. (all the stuff that's not working.)

I tested the relay and it seems to be working fine.

Please take a look at the pictures and let me know:

1) What happened?

2) What's the best way to fix this where it doesn't happen again?

[HeavenlyHomesteadLA]

You can't really see in the picture. But this is the brown/blue (Br/L) wire that sends power thru the fuse box... to all the stuff that's not working.

But looking now at all the other photos... I'm wondering if the bigger red/yellow/black/blue wires are stock? Or if it's some attempt at an ignition bypass??

[saddlebum]

Those Flat blade type connectors are notorious for loosing their tension and becoming loose. When they do they start to get hot which loosens them more and results in more heat. All this adds too poor connections and high resistance and arcing all creating more heat again. Over time as this cycle continues and intensifies things get to the pint were your currently at. I have seen dash fires cause by this cycle. 

 You can buy what is referred to as a pigtail which is the connector complete with wire leads so you just have to splice it in place of the fried one. The one for the relay is commonly used in thousands of vehicles so will be easy to find just make sure it comes with the same or heavier gauge wire as the original. I would also replace the relay it may test OK but the internal points could be pitted or overheated make sure the amp rating of the relay is the same or higher.

The pink one may be a little harder to find but it is a common configuration and so it should still be available you just may have to search on line by image.