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Renovation 2005 Yamaha Royal Star Venture XVZ 1300 TF


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Today the last day in the paint booth. We started at 9am end closed the doors around 5pm. After (again) some problems with the tank, we used an old painters trick: heating up the tank with a heat gun to about 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Then 3 thin layers of paint and between every layer a 4/5 minute pause. In this way there is less chemical reaction because the chemicals evaporate faster.

That did the trick!

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Then the last ivory pearl spray paint.

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After that we mounted the striping, added our own logo, and prepared all the Tupperware for a couple of high gloss clear coats.

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The last hour today we used for 3 layers of clear coat. In the last coat we've added 10% thinner so it will create a better flow.

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Last but not least we cranked up the temperature in de paint booth till about 100 degrees Fahrenheit for two hours.

Edited by Dutch Navigator
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  • 2 weeks later...

We closed the COVID-chapter last week, so let's continue!

First we sprayed a layer of rust protection on the inside of the fenders:

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Second, we added some chrome parts to the fenders:

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Awesome!

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Some bearings from the back wheel are damaged. Probably by ourselves when dismounting these parts. We ordered a couple of new ones:

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Edited by Dutch Navigator
typo
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  • 2 weeks later...
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Something that came to mind as I watched. The proper procedure to set the rear wheel is to snug, not tighten, the 4 acorn nuts on the pumpkin, then to insert the axle and snug tight, then to tighten the acorns and then to torque the axle. Don't know if you did it this way, just thought I would comment seeing as many guys have no idea.

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5 hours ago, Dutch Navigator said:

Yep, we followed the book....... and added some grease (moly).

Greasing the final drive spline is kind of touchy. I've used molly and found it didn't stick very well and soon the spline was dry, and then went with Lucas X-tra heavy duty and it kept the spline wet. Some guys also use a Honda grease and find that works.

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