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Posted

Hey guys was wondering if this bike a clutch safety switch, I'm guessing not? Or mine is not working?

Stalled at stop from running to lean during tuning and had to put in neutral to get going vs just being able to pull clutch in and go, does this seem right?

Posted (edited)

Look toward the end of this thread.  Just went through this exact question a few weeks ago.  After the bandaid turd polishing it works but still has a gnats hair movement from perfect.

 

Edited by Pasta Burner
Posted

Also check the pivot pin and hole for the lever. They wear and get sloppy and as a result it affects the switch operation. I drilled and sleeved them then re-drilled and emery clothed the sleeve until I got a perfect fit.

Posted

Thanks guys!! It was the switch, she was seized up pretty good, thru some dw40 on it and now it's out much further and working, so happy to have this working again in case it was ever needed.

Saddlebum I can see what you are saying and can see myself having to do the same thing at some point, what do you use for a sleeve?

  • Like 1
Posted

usually I use a brass fitting. just turned it down to the OD i wanted pressed in a re-drilled hole in the lever then drill out the fitting to fit the pin. A piece of 1/8 brass pipe works well. the tricky part is re-drillling the handle since you want to maintain the same hole center. This best done in the drill press center the handle on a drill the size of the pivot and set the handle so the un-worn part of the hole sits properly against the drill then clamp it down. then replace the drill with a slightly larger drill and keep increasing the drill size until the hole is again round. then make you bushing out of a piece of brass so that it has to be forced into the hole the drill to fit the pin

Posted
13 minutes ago, saddlebum said:

usually I use a brass fitting. just turned it down to the OD i wanted pressed in a re-drilled hole in the lever then drill out the fitting to fit the pin. A piece of 1/8 brass pipe works well. the tricky part is re-drillling the handle since you want to maintain the same hole center. This best done in the drill press center the handle on a drill the size of the pivot and set the handle so the un-worn part of the hole sits properly against the drill then clamp it down. then replace the drill with a slightly larger drill and keep increasing the drill size until the hole is again round. then make you bushing out of a piece of brass so that it has to be forced into the hole the drill to fit the pin

Thanks saddlebum, seems like a great tip using a drill press, I'm also debating about maybe using a drill press to get out a stuck air fuel mix screw on my one carb, gotta use a reverse thread bit to get it out as head is not usable due to the soft brass being mangled. Didnt even think about a drill press until you mentioned it for this job, thank again!

Posted (edited)
On 7/16/2021 at 4:32 PM, Tysons87venture said:

Thanks saddlebum, seems like a great tip using a drill press, I'm also debating about maybe using a drill press to get out a stuck air fuel mix screw on my one carb, gotta use a reverse thread bit to get it out as head is not usable due to the soft brass being mangled. Didnt even think about a drill press until you mentioned it for this job, thank again!

Torx bits make great screw extractors. drill a hole smaller than the torx bit diameter. drill a second shallow counter bore hole the same size as the torx bit (this serves as a guide to center the bit when you tapit into the smaller hole). Grind the end of the bit flat to replace the rounded end with sharp corners this allows the bit to cut matching grooves as you tap the bit into the screw. I came up with this trick 40 years ago when I got stuck needing a screw extractor and have not owned a screw extractor since.

Edited by saddlebum
  • Like 2
Posted
31 minutes ago, saddlebum said:

Torx bits make great screw extractors. drill a hole smaller than the torx bit diameter. drill a second shallow counter bore hole the same size as the torx bit (this serves as a guide to center the bit when you tapit into the smaller hole). Grind the end of the bit flat to replace the rounded end with sharp corners this allows the bit to cut matching grooves as you tap the bit into the screw. I came up with this trick 40 years ago when I got stuck needing a screw extractor and have not owned a screw extractor since.

Thanks for the tip saddle! I think I will try this, probably gonna wait until winter, hopefully by then I will work up the nerve to try to get this air fuel screw out, it's difficult because it's in the bore and not much room for error, I do think using drill press rather then regular drill would help get centered, my problem is trying to center a cordless drill is to hard and keeps slipping and I dont want to damage the carb body

Posted (edited)
On 7/18/2021 at 9:59 AM, Tysons87venture said:

Thanks for the tip saddle! I think I will try this, probably gonna wait until winter, hopefully by then I will work up the nerve to try to get this air fuel screw out, it's difficult because it's in the bore and not much room for error, I do think using drill press rather then regular drill would help get centered, my problem is trying to center a cordless drill is to hard and keeps slipping and I dont want to damage the carb body

Here are three suggestions you can try:

  1. see if you can find something that will fit in the hole that can act as a guide bushing like maybe an uninsulated drilled out butt connector
  2. you can also try starting with a drill bit that fits perfectly in the hole and drill the screw just enough to form a dimple then go to a smaller bit the dimple should get you started on center
  3. Try starting with a really small bit wrap tape around it preferably aluminum tape until it just fits the hole leave enough of the bit exposed to drill a starting hole in the screw then remove the tape and drill a bit deeper then drill to the size needed for the torx bit

THE TORX BIT YOU USE SHOULD IDEALLY BE HALF THE DIAMETER OF THE SCREW -

Edited by saddlebum
Posted

Suggestion: Grab a drill bit the same size  (or very slightly smaller) that will just clean the inside of the bore, not to take any metal, just the 'dirt'. Drill out the remainder of the brass screw, a little at a time until it's even with the threaded part. Now you have a nice centered platform to work from, and not some dumb angled unapproachable screw end. To do a nice job you will need a nice sharp bit that runs 100% true.

Posted
10 hours ago, Marcarl said:

Suggestion: Grab a drill bit the same size  (or very slightly smaller) that will just clean the inside of the bore, not to take any metal, just the 'dirt'. Drill out the remainder of the brass screw, a little at a time until it's even with the threaded part. Now you have a nice centered platform to work from, and not some dumb angled unapproachable screw end. To do a nice job you will need a nice sharp bit that runs 100% true.

Thanks marcel, I had attempted with a small bit being to nervous to use bigger and that is probably my issue, a bigger bit could be the answer, I'm wondering if I can get this with a cordless while carbs still attached to bike, would love to get this screw out just dont want to mess anything up

Posted
2 minutes ago, Tysons87venture said:

Thanks marcel, I had attempted with a small bit being to nervous to use bigger and that is probably my issue, a bigger bit could be the answer, I'm wondering if I can get this with a cordless while carbs still attached to bike, would love to get this screw out just dont want to mess anything up

A bigger bit just the right size to fit the bore will give you a depressed perfect center at the bottom of the bore at the screw. Go too small and you will add aggravation or maybe even another carb.

Posted
52 minutes ago, Marcarl said:

A bigger bit just the right size to fit the bore will give you a depressed perfect center at the bottom of the bore at the screw. Go too small and you will add aggravation or maybe even another carb.

Makes sense, thanks!

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