Clutch problems

[abidishtiaq]

Good afternoon folks this is abid  have a 96 Yamaha royal star XVZ1300 Recently my clutch started slipping I went ahead and replaced it with Barnett clutch kit 

part # 302-90-20037/clutch friction plates 

part # 401-90089050 steel clutch plates 

part # 511-90-10002 pressure plate 

I made sure to soak the plates over night I also removed the wires flushed the clutch 

but the motorcycle clutch is still slipping when the bike gets hot and as the bikes get hotter and hotter the clutch engages further and further please help I’m trying to keep a positive attitude but losing hope 

my guess is that the problem is in either clutch slave cylinder or master cylinder 

[saddlebum]

If you check your earlier post on this you will see some suggestions have been made but I will re-post my answer here for you.

16 hours ago, abidishtiaq said:

what else do I need to watch out for other then fresh oil and filter tightening the pressure plate to 70inch pound of torque and making sure the pressure plate is snugged against the friction plate

Are you sure your hydraulic system is fully releasing the fluid pressure and is not allowing some pressure to remain in the lines when you release the clutch handle preventing the clutch from fully engaging. You can try cracking the bleeder screw after a couple clutch applications with the handle released to see if all the pressure has been released (you may have to re-bleed the lines after this test. Also make sure there are no major notches in the wing edges of the clutch basket or the center spline that are severe enough to cause the plates to hang up.

Also make sure the engine oil your are using does not have friction modifiers in it which is commonly found in many car oils, these are not clutch friendly.

I am not sure that it makes a difference which side is in or out at least I have never come across any instruction regarding this. What  I tend to do is  look at the edges of the fingers. One edge is sharp and the other edge is rounded over (same as when you look at the edges of a flat washer). I then insert the plates with the rounded edge towards the engine. Whether it actually matters or not I can't really say I just feel there is less chance of the edges biting into the wings of the clutch basket or center spline as the clutch engages. I would never scuff the plates unless reusing old plates and they require cleaning of debris. In that case I would wet the back side of quality wet sandpaper and lay it down on a piece of glass or granite and work the plates in a crisis cross or figure eight pattern on the sand paper. I also clean new plates with brake clean in case they have been treated with any kind of storage rust inhibitor.

[abidishtiaq]

I’m using 20-50 Lucas motor oil I’m positive that the clutch is replaced the way it should be there isn’t any damage to clutch basket the bike only has 23,000 miles on it 

I’m convinced the problem is somewhere in the clutch master or slave cylinder can’t seem to figure out which and would you please help me find the master and slave cylinder that would be great or a part number 

[saddlebum]

2 hours ago, abidishtiaq said:

I’m using 20-50 Lucas motor oil I’m positive that the clutch is replaced the way it should be there isn’t any damage to clutch basket the bike only has 23,000 miles on it 

I’m convinced the problem is somewhere in the clutch master or slave cylinder can’t seem to figure out which and would you please help me find the master and slave cylinder that would be great or a part number 

I use lucas 20/50 for 4 stroke engines with wet clutches myself and am quite content with it.

The master is the part on the handle bar to which the clutch lever is attached. the slave sits between the stater cover and the middle gear cover on the left side. You will find a squarish rubber piece in between the two. remove that rubber cover and you will see the slave and its bleeder screw. This is the bleeder screw you want to crack open to see if there is pressure remaining in the system when you release the clutch lever after first squeezing the clutch lever a couple times. If the clutch engages further when you crack the bleeder screw repeat the test but crack the bolt loose which connects the line to the master. if again the clutch further engages than the line should be OK and the master is likely the issue but if the second test makes no difference than ou may have a blockage in the line.

Edited July 11, 2021 by saddlebum