Tysons87venture Posted July 10, 2021 Author #26 Posted July 10, 2021 When starting carb upright the valves fall down about 1-2 mm
Tysons87venture Posted July 10, 2021 Author #27 Posted July 10, 2021 I think that could be my issue then, if I bend the fang this should help hold it up I'm thinking?
Tysons87venture Posted July 10, 2021 Author #28 Posted July 10, 2021 That might have it thanks alot saddlebum, feels like its sitting tighter in housing now with tab bent more, valve seems to still be working
Tysons87venture Posted July 10, 2021 Author #29 Posted July 10, 2021 Is this what you were talking about saddlebum? The valve seat that you had leaking causing the flooding? I'm hoping to build up a tester tomorrow to see if I have the correct fuel level now
saddlebum Posted July 10, 2021 #30 Posted July 10, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, BlueSky said: When I checked the float levels in my 89, as I remember, I put slightly larger tubes over the ends of the drain tubes and it was very easy to check the levels. Just checked my bike and suddenly remembered about that. Guess I got so used to setting them up on the bench I totally forgot that method. The tang that touches the needle is what you bend one way or the other until you get the right fuel level. Also the brass seat that the needle goes into should not be moving around. Edited July 10, 2021 by saddlebum
saddlebum Posted July 10, 2021 #31 Posted July 10, 2021 1 minute ago, Tysons87venture said: Is this what you were talking about saddlebum? The valve seat that you had leaking causing the flooding? I'm hoping to build up a tester tomorrow to see if I have the correct fuel level now In my case I managed to get a burr on the outer brass seat that the needle seat goes into and it caused the needle to stick
Tysons87venture Posted July 10, 2021 Author #32 Posted July 10, 2021 Just now, saddlebum said: In my case I managed to get a burr on the outer brass seat that the needle seat goes into and it caused the needle to stick Ok the theory is kind of making sense abit more to me now, I can see now that I'd have much less fuel before the valve closes, it was fitting loosely in seat so I'm guessing is was just allowing extra fuel through, now it's just a matter if its enough fuel to keep her running, thanks again for your help!
cimmer Posted July 11, 2021 #33 Posted July 11, 2021 (edited) Here is a doc I pulled from somewhere a long time ago and it has some pictures on how to dry set the floats. Look thru this and it might help you out some with your issues. I hope this helps you out. Rick F. Carb rebuild.docx Edited July 11, 2021 by cimmer
Tysons87venture Posted July 11, 2021 Author #34 Posted July 11, 2021 Thanks for that Rick, very helpful. I believe my issues might be related to the poor quality re build set I bought, the rubber gasket around the jet block seems very soft, in the pictures I could see that the gasket looks alot stiffer and a better fit than what I'm dealing with, the float heights look good, the needle valve does seem loose in the seat though and I'm not sure that's normal but that's the only way I can get it set to correct height
luvmy40 Posted July 11, 2021 #35 Posted July 11, 2021 It's not loose when the float is pushing it up into the seat.
cimmer Posted July 12, 2021 #36 Posted July 12, 2021 As a rule, I stay away from the China stuff as there is no way they can be using quality materials and sell if for the price they are. I try and stick with the Japan produced or Taiwan produced products. One of the places I have ordered carbs kits from is https://www.carburettorshop.com/contents/en-us/d380_Mikuni_BDS_carburetor_parts_and_rebuild_kits.html They are located in The Netherlands, so shipping can be an issue but they do offer a couple of different ways to get it here. Another sourse is https://www.siriusconinc.com/search_result.php?make=2&model=Venture Royale&part=All&partno=&x=56&y=16&search=search&start=0 They are located in Ontario Canada and offer some parts at fair prices and shipping is more reasonable also. Hope this helps. Rick F.
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