Got new slider assembly and need advise, please

[Uthred]

I just got a new set of sliders and when I went to install I can't get the diaphragm to stay in the slotted groove. I can get them in but having only 2 hands I have to take them off to put the cover on and the diaphragm pops off. Any suggestions?

[saddlebum]

 

@UthredI suggest you post a picture of the diaphram and the barrel as the OEM one does not have a slotted grove as per say. It uses two white nylon looking rings and a stainless lipped sleeve to hold them in place. The OEM diaphragm sits between the two white rings.

There is an aftermarket diaphragm which eliminates the two white rings by cutting them out and sits in the resulting groove between  the lip of the stainless sleeve and the body of the plastic barrel. These aftermarket diaphragms have a thick bead around the center hole and go on similar to mounting a tubeless tire on a rim.

If you try to use the OEM type diaphram without the white rings it will not stay in place. 

Edited June 15, 2021 by saddlebum

[Uthred]

I am talking about seating the sliders into the carb. I found these on ebay and they come mostly assembled just need to put the pin in

[saddlebum]

@UthredThat looks OEM. When you install the barrel the tab on the diaphragm should line up with the locating spot on the carb housing and the drain hole in the barrel should be at the six o'clock position. If required rotate the diaphragm on the barrel until alll lines up properly. The spring goes into the barrel  and then the cover goes on. it should not be difficult. If need be get a small can of of PERMATEX HIGH TACK gasket spray (most auto parts sources carry it and is non-hardening and easily removable if needed ) and carefully spray a thin coat in the groove on the housing. Let it get tacky then set the diaphragm in place insert the spring into the barrel and then the cover.

Edited June 15, 2021 by saddlebum

[Uthred]

Thanks @saddlebum, I was wondering if I could use something to stick it with

[Uthred]

Hey @saddlebum have any ideas why the bike is reving at 3000 rpm

[saddlebum]

sticking or improperly adjusted throttle cables and/or twist grip, idle adjust set to high, carb sync adjusters way out of adjustment, improperly set needles in the barrels, possible vacuum leak just to name a few that come to mind.

[Marcarl]

15 hours ago, saddlebum said:

sticking or improperly adjusted throttle cables and/or twist grip, idle adjust set to high, carb sync adjusters way out of adjustment, improperly set needles in the barrels, possible vacuum leak just to name a few that come to mind.

That about covers it,,,, now can you nail it down a bit better, he'll have to take the whole bike apart again.

[saddlebum]

8 minutes ago, Marcarl said:

That about covers it,,,, now can you nail it down a bit better, he'll have to take the whole bike apart again.

Not without actually  being in front or even better beside the bike so I can see what is actually going on.

[Uthred]

I went one better, I bought a newer  Venture V-sar 1300

[saddlebum]

After all that work you did on the 1st gen now your gonna step down to a 2nd gen and you call that going one better. 

All kidding aside thats a nice looking scoot.

[Pasta Burner]

So how do you properly adjust the throttle cables?  I put my new grips on and am having the high RPM issue.  I don’t think it’s sticking at the grip because when I rotate it all the way forward it still doesn’t drop RPM.  Occasionally if I let out the clutch some while holding the brake to bog the engine down it’ll stay at 1K but mostly just creeps back up to 3k.  First ride with the new grips, dangerous and annoying.

 

I read the service manual and that was no help.

Edited September 22, 2021 by Pasta Burner

[cimmer]

I checked the service manual for the 86-93 Ventures and it outlines how and where to do it starting on page 2-14 under Periodic Inspections and Adjustments, chapter 2. The different throttle cables have different places to adjust them at depending on which one is loose.

Since you just replaced the grips on the bike, I would double check the cables at the grip and make sure they are seated correctly in the housing and that there is a bit of free play in the throttle. It is possible that a cable slipped and isnt fully seated in the attachment to the carbs, throttle grip, or cruise control actuator and is pulling the throttle blades open in the carbs. Does the grip seems harder to rotate then before the new grips installed?

Wish I could be more help on this but this one is hard to say without seeing it.

Good luck

Rick F.

[Pasta Burner]

I did a little tinkering with it and I got it to idle proper when I opened up the switch housing.  I noticed when I pinched the housing back together it was binding the new grip ever slightly, so I have to adjust that.

 

on another note, the return spring doesn’t seem strong enough to close the throttle on its own.  If I manually actuate the butterflies at the carb just above the idle adjustment screw it only snaps back about half way.  

[saddlebum]

Are the cable adjusted too tight or is  idle set screw turned in too far. It is on the left side and and has a finger knob on it. Keep in mind the sliders do not close completely usually there is still roughly a 1/4" opening when fully closed give or take.

[Pasta Burner]

5 hours ago, saddlebum said:

Are the cable adjusted too tight or is  idle set screw turned in too far. It is on the left side and and has a finger knob on it. Keep in mind the sliders do not close completely usually there is still roughly a 1/4" opening when fully closed give or take.

Cable adjustment and lube is what I’m about to do.  The idle screw was set correct when I synced the carbs a few weeks ago (before the new grips), so my variable is really in the cables/grips.

as for the sliders, are they supposed to move with the air box off and engine running?  Mine do nothing, but I was thinking that is due to the carbs being wide open.  With the airbox installed obviously I can’t see what’s happening.  They all set closed about where you say.

[saddlebum]

They will move with the air box off if not binding. If they are try spraying a bit of sea foam on them and gently try moving them a few times with the flat side of a large screw driver and they should slide back in place when you remove the screwdriver. Its not uncommon for them to stick sometimes usually if the bike has been sitting. If they still wont move freely remove the  sliders and check for debris in the bore or on the sliders. If they move freely with the screwdriver and return freely on their own check the diaphragms for holes or tears

Edited September 26, 2021 by saddlebum

[Pasta Burner]

I got to see them work this afternoon with a little encouragement.  @skydoc_17 is in the process of hooking me up with some new gear.

[RDawson]

22 hours ago, Pasta Burner said:

I got to see them work this afternoon with a little encouragement.  @skydoc_17 is in the process of hooking me up with some new gear.

Better watch that skydoc fella. He’ll have you running like a bat outta hell n stopping on a dime. 🤣

[Pasta Burner]

So the front right slider doesn’t move as far outboard as the other three.  Should they all move the same?  Just want to ask before I take all that plastic off to inspect it from the outside.

[luvmy40]

Getting the slide and diaphragm out is easy. Inspect the suspect diaphragm for pin holes/tears. If it looks good, inspect the slide for rough spots and cracks. If that looks good, put it all back together and synchronize the carbs. Then see what you have.

[Squidley]

11 hours ago, Pasta Burner said:

So the front right slider doesn’t move as far outboard as the other three.  Should they all move the same?  Just want to ask before I take all that plastic off to inspect it from the outside.

They should all move the same and dampen at the same rate.

[Pasta Burner]

Just installed new slides and shim kit from @skydoc_17 I’m sure it was well worth the investment.  

[Marcarl]

Will be for sure.!