Pains me to consider...

[JFootman]

Apologize for longevity but will share history of current situation. Picked up a ’83 Venture 2 weeks ago with 56k on the odometer (seller said likely closer to 65k) for a more than reasonable price (IMHO). Told it needed brake work, speedometer cable replaced and had the dreaded 2nd gear issues. Tires with “a year left” and had all the plastics (multiple tabs broken but grossly intact) as well as intact saddlebags and trunk (typical cracks). No apparent frame damage/internal rust (lifts up on center stand). Guy had been driving intermittently to & from work 80 miles each way for nearly 10 years. Said he was only getting rid of it because he didn’t want to dump money into it and admitted just turning a wrench was nearly out of his comfort zone. While it was more bike than I needed the price was right and couldn’t pass it up. 

I’ll preface by saying I can turn a wrench but I’m far from a mechanic! My knowledge is what I have garnered on vehicle repairs over the years by watching videos or surfing the forums. Even less knowledge of motorcycles. Here’s what I’ve done in the 2 weeks:
-engine cleaning
-replaced the speedometer cable
-fixed the speedometer (bound up spring)
-repaired multiple tabs on the plastics (next is the upper front fairing tabs)
-new filter and oil
-radiator drain & fill (didn’t clean d/t potential risks)
-replaced clutch fluid & purged
-replaced front & rear brake fluid & purged
-disassembled left front caliper & cleaned (needs rebuild & possible piston but brakes now working)
-1/2 can Seafoam to 2 gallons then additional ½ to 5 gallons

Needless to say, minimal investment & most members on this forum are more than capable of all the above while half asleep! I started driving to work last week and other than having trouble getting into first at stops (user error due to not shifting into first while rolling?), and some bogging down around 3k rpms (shortly after the Seafoam but better now) everything seemed “OK” for a 38 year old bike. Rode to work yesterday (~3miles) and while pulling up (and rolling) couldn’t get it into first. At lunch started it up and dropped right in. Left after work (sitting in sun) and 2 blocks away I couldn’t get into first again (while rolling), however it wouldn’t shift up or down either. Drove home in 3rd and parked it for a few hours.

After scouring the forums and retracing my steps I was concerned about overfilling engine oil. Although I only added 3.5 quarts and saw the very bottom of the bubble in the sight glass I siphoned off about a quarter of a quart of oil that remarkably was dark (indicative of other issues?). After sitting for about 20 minutes, started it up & was able to shift into second and neutral but still no first. I’ve not been “aggressive” in attempting to up- or downshift. Interestingly (and maybe indicative of other issues as well) when I was in second previously I would get a grind immediately when releasing the clutch & wouldn’t drop into gear. Now it pulls forward in both second and third. When releasing the clutch there’s now a faint “buzz” on the left side above the shifter I didn’t notice before when the clutch was out and in neutral. Again, retracing my steps I purged the clutch line (no bubbles) and also attempted a gravity purge last night for good measure. Unfortunately no overnight miracle cures and still won’t shift into first. Clutch pull feels firm as would be expected (no sponginess).

Disgusted but still willing to see it through I called the only motorcycle shop in town today. While he said they would “consider” working on a bike that old in the off-season, he wasn’t willing to get into it now. Asked if he knew anyone (even a shade-tree mechanic) that he would recommend. Referred me to a shop an hour south with the same reply except he wasn’t even willing to get into it in the off season. Both guys when asked their thoughts said, “get rid of it”. I’m sure you know where this is going….

I am wide open to advice and recommendations. I truly believe at its heart it’s a solid bike. I’m aware there are numerous things that CAN and WILL go wrong with it but I don’t think anything will be as expensive or labor intensive as a transmission job (correct me if I’m wrong). My biggest fear is that if I cowboy up and try to undertake it myself (unlikely & probably ill-advised) in doing so I create not only more work but more expense fixing or replacing everything I damage in the process (not to mention I will likely need to purchase a number of tools to complete). The irony is that (God bless her heart) my wife says she wants me to fix it and enjoy the bike “even if it costs another $1k”. One of the shop guys said “I think you probably know what you should do but need someone to confirm it for you”. Unfortunately that can’t be further from the truth. I just don’t know what to do.

Here’re my considerations:
1.    Sell the bike as is. I refuse to pull the wool over someone’s eyes so whether I’m going to take a hit on it or not would remain to be seen. Most bikes around here in much worse shape or age or mileage have gone for a lot more than I gave.
2.    Part it out. With less than 65k on the bike there’s a bunch of good stuff to be had. This is probably my least favorite option even if it garnered me the most money because I think she’s got so many miles left in her.
3.    Park it until fall/winter and HOPE I can find a shop willing to take on the transmission work on AND not get screwed in the process.
4.    ATTEMPT to complete the project myself. I’m not one who likes open-ended projects and it will likely become all-encompassing. As a husband and father of six I don’t want it to become my god at the detriment of my family.
5.    Outsource the job to someone else with more knowledge and skill than myself & hope once again I don’t take it in the caboose (financially or otherwise).
6.    Wait to hear what wisdom and insight you all have to offer….

Thanks in advance to everyone who’s had the patience to read the above and more importantly willing to offer their perspective on my dilemma!
 

[RDawson]

Does it feel like the clutch isn’t releasing enough to shift or more of a mechanical issue?

You can bleed the clutch master cylinder at the banjo bolt on the cylinder, air can get stuck there and not bleed out the slave bleeder. Second, look in the bottom of the reservoir and find the tiny hole in it and make sure it’s not clogged. 

[Marcarl]

Something else to look at: the shaft going from the shifter to the shifting shaft that goes through the engine should be straight, it might be bent fro somebody trying to force a shift.

[JFootman]

1 hour ago, RDawson said:

Does it feel like the clutch isn’t releasing enough to shift or more of a mechanical issue?

You can bleed the clutch master cylinder at the banjo bolt on the cylinder, air can get stuck there and not bleed out the slave bleeder. Second, look in the bottom of the reservoir and find the tiny hole in it and make sure it’s not clogged. 

Clutch seems to be releasing enough. In fact it feels better than it was before replacing the fluid and purging. Feels like a mechanical issue especially since it shifts from neutral into second and third and engages as I release. I did notice this morning when I dropped it into second it tried to lurch and died (indicative the clutch was still engaged). I admittedly didn't let it warm up long so not sure if that's typical with wet clutches.

I've heard both sides of the argument with gravity bleeding but in addition I probably did 20 cycles of traditional bleeding with no bubbles for probably half of them. Can try the banjo bolt bleed on the cylinder. I used a syringe to clean the MC and the hole didn't appear clogged but I can try the fine wire trick. Thx!

[cowpuc]

2 hours ago, RDawson said:

Does it feel like the clutch isn’t releasing enough to shift or more of a mechanical issue?

You can bleed the clutch master cylinder at the banjo bolt on the cylinder, air can get stuck there and not bleed out the slave bleeder. Second, look in the bottom of the reservoir and find the tiny hole in it and make sure it’s not clogged. 

1st and foremost I would do exactly what Corporal Newkirk mentions above. Set the bike upright in a fashion that you can  turn the  bars and end up with the clutch master as level as possible. Put rags under and around the master/banjo area to soak up brake fluid. Open the master cover and check the rubber seal under the master.. Move the lever in until you can feel resistance and hold it there while you carefully open the banjo - when you start to see fluid seeping and as the lever slowly sinks toward the bar watch the banjo for air bubbles.  When the lever gets close to bottom close the banjo and slowly release the lever.  Do it again.. Now refill master to the point you just have a tiny amount of air bubble on top of site window. Now pump the lever slowly and watch the tiny hole bleedback hole in the bottom of the master (not the big one that feeds the piston, the tiny one) and make sure its bleeding off - careful when doing this as that little hole has squirt fluid in more than one persons eye over the years..  I personally have never been real successful in getting a good clutch without doing exactly as Newkirk mentions.. Even a couple tiny air bubbles at that highest point in the system (the banjo) will give enough of a clutch loss that getting into gear, especially 1st, can be troublesome at best..  For me, a really good simple test to see if its tranny or clutch related is to, with the bike shut off = while rocking the bike back and forth gently and me leaning over its seat - move the shifter gently up and down to run it thru the gears while not touching the clutch.. If it will fall gently into and out of gear while rocking it back and forth it is more likely to be clutch related than anything else.. If it will not fall gently thru the gears doing this method, there is a really good chance you have a shift drum indent/pin issue. The end of the shift drum that carries the engagement pins that is held in place by a little cam follower is located under the clutch basket on the right hand side of the bike.. Very common a MX bikes because of the abuse that mechanism takes from landing jumps and abusing the shift lever in doing so is very common.. I have never encountered it on any of my MK1's but have read of owners who have.. Probably the most common issue on the MK1's relating to this that I have heard of is the pins getting loose or actually falling out.. The repair is fairly simple and does not require a tranny job (splitting of the cases,, engine removal).. I would DEFINITELY check into both the suggestions above very closely BEFORE I offed the bike as,, in no uncertain terms, the bike you have is fully capable of serving up numerous hundreds of thousands of mile of unspeakable fun if it really does only have 65k miles on it - even with no second gear.. 

Congrats on the find, I hope it all works out and you end up finding the joy these bikes have served up to many of us long time Venture riders..

Puc

Edited May 27, 2021 by cowpuc
clutch basket is on the right, not left side LOL

[JFootman]

1 hour ago, Marcarl said:

Something else to look at: the shaft going from the shifter to the shifting shaft that goes through the engine should be straight, it might be bent fro somebody trying to force a shift.

Sadly if that is the case, I'm the only one to blame as it was shifting like a champ last week. While I've applied more pressure than required for a standard shift trying to get it out of gear I don't feel I "forced" it but will check for a bend now. Thx!

[JFootman]

5 minutes ago, cowpuc said:

1st and foremost I would do exactly what Corporal Newkirk mentions above. Set the bike upright in a fashion that you can  turn the  bars and end up with the clutch master as level as possible. Put rags under and around the master/banjo area to soak up brake fluid. Open the master cover and check the rubber seal under the master.. Move the lever in until you can feel resistance and hold it there while you carefully open the banjo - when you start to see fluid seeping and as the lever slowly sinks toward the bar watch the banjo for air bubbles.  When the lever gets close to bottom close the banjo and slowly release the lever.  Do it again.. Now refill master to the point you just have a tiny amount of air bubble on top of site window. Now pump the lever slowly and watch the tiny hole bleedback hole in the bottom of the master (not the big one that feeds the piston, the tiny one) and make sure its bleeding off - careful when doing this as that little hole has squirt fluid in more than one persons eye over the years..  I personally have never been real successful in getting a good clutch without doing exactly as Newkirk mentions.. Even a couple tiny air bubbles at that highest point in the system (the banjo) will give enough of a clutch loss that getting into gear, especially 1st, can be troublesome at best..  For me, a really good simple test to see if its tranny or clutch related is to, with the bike shut off = while rocking the bike back and forth gently and me leaning over its seat - move the shifter gently up and down to run it thru the gears while not touching the clutch.. If it will fall gently into and out of gear while rocking it back and forth it is more likely to be clutch related than anything else.. If it will not fall gently thru the gears doing this method, there is a really good chance you have a shift drum indent/pin issue. The end of the shift drum that carries the engagement pins that is held in place by a little cam follower is located under the clutch basket on the left hand side of the bike.. Very common a MX bikes because of the abuse that mechanism takes from landing jumps and abusing the shift lever in doing so is very common.. I have never encountered it on any of my MK1's but have read of owners who have.. Probably the most common issue on the MK1's relating to this that I have heard of is the pins getting loose or actually falling out.. The repair is fairly simple and does not require a tranny job (splitting of the cases,, engine removal).. I would DEFINITELY check into both the suggestions above very closely BEFORE I offed the bike as,, in no uncertain terms, the bike you have is fully capable of serving up numerous hundreds of thousands of mile of unspeakable fun if it really does only have 65k miles on it - even with no second gear.. 

Congrats on the find, I hope it all works out and you end up finding the joy these bikes have served up to many of us long time Venture riders..

Puc

Thx for the thorough write-up, Puc. I'll admit it saved me some time searching the forums on "how to bleed a banjo bolt"!

I will do the bleed & the rocking test. I'll have to do a little research on the clutch basket and once my posts meet the quota I can post some pics for y'alls inspection!

Thx again, gentlemen. You've renewed my hopes in keeping the ole' girl!!!

[cowpuc]

13 minutes ago, JFootman said:

Thx for the thorough write-up, Puc. I'll admit it saved me some time searching the forums on "how to bleed a banjo bolt"!

I will do the bleed & the rocking test. I'll have to do a little research on the clutch basket and once my posts meet the quota I can post some pics for y'alls inspection!

Thx again, gentlemen. You've renewed my hopes in keeping the ole' girl!!!

You are welcome @JFootman... Thinking this thru a little more,, it might be best to just to a quick "rocking test" 1st thing.. Its real easy to do.. Would you like a short video of the process?? I can put something together for you if you would like.. The main thing is to use your fingers so you can feel the tranny gears dropping in and out while rocking back and forth so the gears ramp up with ease.. Many times, while watching customers looking at bikes in my dealership I would catch them trying to run the bike thru the gears with bike off, the clutch pulled in but the bike sitting still = BIG MISTAKE and VERY hard on shift forks.. Sort of like working with lock tumblers, gentle movement to align things and the gears should click in and out like butter without the use of the clutch (motor off).  

[JFootman]

@cowpuc, bike off, clutch released, rocking forwards and backwards I’m shifting up & down from neutral-2nd-3rd and back down. Can’t get into 4th or 5th. Tried it again and stuck in 3rd both with clutch engaged or released. Gonna check MC port then banjo bolt next. 

[cowpuc]

57 minutes ago, JFootman said:

@cowpuc, bike off, clutch released, rocking forwards and backwards I’m shifting up & down from neutral-2nd-3rd and back down. Can’t get into 4th or 5th. Tried it again and stuck in 3rd both with clutch engaged or released. Gonna check MC port then banjo bolt next. 

Hot off the press,,, JF if you cant successfully run thru this test I highly doubt that your issue is clutch related.. Take a quick peek and see if this works for you:

Copy for the video I just posted on my youtube channel reads: 

''I have a friend, JFootman, who is working on his 1983 Yamaha Venture and trying to determine whether the motorcycles inability to shift is clutch related or transmission failure related. Here is a simple test I have used for years that has helped me in determining where to begin a repair.. JFootman, I hope this little video helps you in some small way!!""

and here is the vid:

 

 

[JFootman]

Ok, the good, the bad & the ugly. The good is that the banjo bolt bleed burped and definitely needed bleeding (thx, @RDawson & @cowpuc!). Checked the hole in the bottom of the reservoir (used a strand of picture wire) and was clear. Checked the adjustment bar from the shift lever to the shifting shaft in the engine per @Marcarl & thankfully straight.

As indicated before, with engine off I was able to shift the gears from N-2-3 and back down by rocking without the clutch. Tried again attempting to get to 4th & got stuck in 3rd. Did the banjo bleed & out of the blue was able to shift into 4th & 5th then got stuck in 4th. Pulled clutch and released repeatedly, tried rocking and shifting then arbitrarily it was out of gear but not neutral. No neutral indicator light and no gear on display.

I wish I was more help explaining things. All the above was without engine running. Thx again for all the help.

[cowpuc]

15 minutes ago, JFootman said:

Ok, the good, the bad & the ugly. The good is that the banjo bolt bleed burped and definitely needed bleeding (thx, @RDawson & @cowpuc!). Checked the hole in the bottom of the reservoir (used a strand of picture wire) and was clear. Checked the adjustment bar from the shift lever to the shifting shaft in the engine per @Marcarl & thankfully straight.

As indicated before, with engine off I was able to shift the gears from N-2-3 and back down by rocking without the clutch. Tried again attempting to get to 4th & got stuck in 3rd. Did the banjo bleed & out of the blue was able to shift into 4th & 5th then got stuck in 4th. Pulled clutch and released repeatedly, tried rocking and shifting then arbitrarily it was out of gear but not neutral. No neutral indicator light and no gear on display.

I wish I was more help explaining things. All the above was without engine running. Thx again for all the help.

JF,, did you take a peek at the video I posted and is your summation posted above in response to that video?  I am trying to make sure we are all on the same page of understanding.. You are more than welcome for the help,, its a way of life in the VR club..

Edited May 27, 2021 by cowpuc

[JFootman]

@cowpuc, you ARE the man! If a picture's worth a thousand words.... Sincerely appreciate your uploading the vid. I think our posts crossed at the same time. I watched the video & went back out and tried again as you demonstrated (as if my hand had magical powers!) but still sitting between 4th & 5th (or 3rd & 4th).

Edited May 27, 2021 by JFootman

[cowpuc]

2 minutes ago, JFootman said:

@cowpuc, you ARE the man! If a picture's worth a thousand words.... Sincerely appreciate your uploading the vid. I think our posts crossed at the same time. I watched the video & went back out and tried again as you demonstrated (as if my hand had magical powers!) but still sitting between 4th & 5th (or 3rd & 4th).

You are welcome,, glad to help and share my pea brain advice LOL...  JF, sounds to me like we are not talking clutch issues, although an insuffecient clutch actuation caused by air in the hydraulics  could add to the reasons why you are where you are..  There are now three distinct possibilities for causation of your tranny issues IMHO. One is linkage/shift shaft clamp related as mentioned by @Marcarl.. If you look at this video that I posted for another club member a while back having similar issues you can see the outer linkage and clamp on the forward shaft.. Picture in your mind another similar linkage that runs from the back side of the exposed shaft to the actual shift shaft that runs thru the engine cases and serves the actual shift drum under the clutch pack.. That linkage is hidden under the forward bevel gear cover.. So here is what could be going on in there.. First check and make sure the 10mm bolt that secures the exposed clamp is tight. The thought is that possibly you have a clamp sliding over the splines on the shift shaft thusly not allowing the shift drum full engagement.. Obviously, this same thought applies to the linkage and clamps on the interior/under the forward bevel cover..  I hate to say this but I have a gut feeling this is not where the problem is but it is easier to check than going on to the shift drum.. 

Here is that vid,, I know it goes by quick and is probably hard to follow but this may help:

 

[cowpuc]

and here is a short video that I was able to locate on youtube that partially describes what my gut is telling your issue is leading to.. Keep in mind when viewing that the shift drum the person is holding in his hand does not have to be removed to repair the issue of pin failure or cam follower spring failure or pin engagement arm failure of which I am thinking is where your issue lies.. The clutch pack will have to come out though.. Lets see if this helps at all. 

 

[JFootman]

28 minutes ago, cowpuc said:

You are welcome,, glad to help and share my pea brain advice LOL...  JF, sounds to me like we are not talking clutch issues, although an insuffecient clutch actuation caused by air in the hydraulics  could add to the reasons why you are where you are..  There are now three distinct possibilities for causation of your tranny issues IMHO. One is linkage/shift shaft clamp related as mentioned by @Marcarl.. If you look at this video that I posted for another club member a while back having similar issues you can see the outer linkage and clamp on the forward shaft.. Picture in your mind another similar linkage that runs from the back side of the exposed shaft to the actual shift shaft that runs thru the engine cases and serves the actual shift drum under the clutch pack.. That linkage is hidden under the forward bevel gear cover.. So here is what could be going on in there.. First check and make sure the 10mm bolt that secures the exposed clamp is tight. The thought is that possibly you have a clamp sliding over the splines on the shift shaft thusly not allowing the shift drum full engagement.. Obviously, this same thought applies to the linkage and clamps on the interior/under the forward bevel cover..  I hate to say this but I have a gut feeling this is not where the problem is but it is easier to check than going on to the shift drum.. 

Here is that vid,, I know it goes by quick and is probably hard to follow but this may help:

 

So I confirmed the outer linkage clamp is secure and not spinning on the shifter shaft. I can't confirm the clamp on the assembly behind the gear cover. I can remove the gear cover if appropriate however I can say that as it will not shift into gear (up or down), there is very little play that would indicate slippage of the interior clamp. Needless to say, I'm still putty in your hands!

[cowpuc]

6 minutes ago, JFootman said:

So I confirmed the outer linkage clamp is secure and not spinning on the shifter shaft. I can't confirm the clamp on the assembly behind the gear cover. I can remove the gear cover if appropriate however I can say that as it will not shift into gear (up or down), there is very little play that would indicate slippage of the interior clamp. Needless to say, I'm still putty in your hands!

IMHO,, and keep in mind this is coming from the mind of a definite non-guru, it comes down to making the choice of pulling the forward bevel gear cover to check the inner clamp/primary shift shaft and linkage or removing the clutch cover and taking a peek at the end of the exposed shift drum and shifting mechanism that lays under the clutch basket.  If facing the same choices I would probably opt for pulling the clutch cover as, like I said, my gut tells me thats where the problem is.. Either way you will need a gasket at a minimum..  The clutch comes apart fairly easily to expose the shift drum end with the hardest part, again IMHO, being removal of the large nut that holds the basket on the clutch shaft.  JF,, you mention thinking of offing the bike,,,, let me ask you this,,, have you ever posted anything on youtube and/or can you post up some pics on the site here? It would be really interesting to see the bike up close to see if we could determine just how accurate the 65k mile claim is.. If the bike really is under 100k miles, even with a blown 2nd gear I can attest to the down right ruggedness of these scoots and also to their complete potential for chasing out 250 to 300k miles - been there x6!! The only thing to remember though is these are old bikes and those kind of miles do/will require some wrenching along the way.  That being said though, I will also add that ALL of my wrenching to accumulate 1 million miles plus riding out 5 of them to retirement (still riding the 6th one) I have never opened up an engine or tranny on one - not even for valve adjustments.. All of my wrenching has been exterior of the engine cases and/or top end.  I just bought them CHEAP with no 2nd gear like you did and short shifted them after losing second gear to get the remaining 200k plus miles out of them. On the other hand though, I learned long ago when I was very young that I was not the "pay someone else to fix it" kind of person and not everyone is like that.. Most people prefer to not get dirty and will trust a quick tow into a bike shop and a highly skilled, highly trained genuine mechanic to do their work for them - I know, that is actually normal. NOTHING WRONG WITH THAT!! Just depends on what your after in life I guess...

[Woody]

I am curious you said you changed oil and filter, what type oil did you put in the bike? OH and by the way if it can be fixed the guys on this forum can do it.

[JFootman]

2 hours ago, Woody said:

I am curious you said you changed oil and filter, what type oil did you put in the bike? OH and by the way if it can be fixed the guys on this forum can do it.

I used Rotella conventional 15w-40, @Woody. I found a number of posts recommending this but unfortunately there doesn't seem to be a definite consensus. As I indicated the oil was remarkably dark for less than 2 weeks old and minimal mileage. Will probably do another oil change once I get her up and running (IF I do!). What do you guys recommend?

[JFootman]

10 hours ago, cowpuc said:

IMHO,, and keep in mind this is coming from the mind of a definite non-guru, it comes down to making the choice of pulling the forward bevel gear cover to check the inner clamp/primary shift shaft and linkage or removing the clutch cover and taking a peek at the end of the exposed shift drum and shifting mechanism that lays under the clutch basket.  If facing the same choices I would probably opt for pulling the clutch cover as, like I said, my gut tells me thats where the problem is.. Either way you will need a gasket at a minimum..  The clutch comes apart fairly easily to expose the shift drum end with the hardest part, again IMHO, being removal of the large nut that holds the basket on the clutch shaft.  JF,, you mention thinking of offing the bike,,,, let me ask you this,,, have you ever posted anything on youtube and/or can you post up some pics on the site here? It would be really interesting to see the bike up close to see if we could determine just how accurate the 65k mile claim is.. If the bike really is under 100k miles, even with a blown 2nd gear I can attest to the down right ruggedness of these scoots and also to their complete potential for chasing out 250 to 300k miles - been there x6!! The only thing to remember though is these are old bikes and those kind of miles do/will require some wrenching along the way.  That being said though, I will also add that ALL of my wrenching to accumulate 1 million miles plus riding out 5 of them to retirement (still riding the 6th one) I have never opened up an engine or tranny on one - not even for valve adjustments.. All of my wrenching has been exterior of the engine cases and/or top end.  I just bought them CHEAP with no 2nd gear like you did and short shifted them after losing second gear to get the remaining 200k plus miles out of them. On the other hand though, I learned long ago when I was very young that I was not the "pay someone else to fix it" kind of person and not everyone is like that.. Most people prefer to not get dirty and will trust a quick tow into a bike shop and a highly skilled, highly trained genuine mechanic to do their work for them - I know, that is actually normal. NOTHING WRONG WITH THAT!! Just depends on what your after in life I guess...

As the issues seem so sporadic and I can definitely feel and hear a difference in the amount of gear movement when trying or occasionally successfully switching gears, I'm leaning towards your assessment, @cowpuc. A gasket is the least of my concerns at this point and while I wish I could see the pins without pulling the clutch, after watching a number of videos it seems relatively straightforward (with some "tricky" parts mixed in). Since she's dead in the water now, I'm inclined to pull the clutch after scouring the forums for guidance.

I will take some pics tonight & upload if my count's high enough. Had a neighbor who's ridden all his life (hardcore Harley rider) say I got a steal but since this is y'alls cup o' tea, I'd be thrilled to get a more balanced perspective.

I have the same mentality when it comes to paying someone else to do work I can do myself. I can guarantee it'll take me longer and I'll likely work twice as hard to reach the same end but it's all about the journey and the pride in doing it yourself. If this problem doesn't require splitting the cases or end up with another major issue I have no intentions of selling her off. I'm thrilled to hear affirmation that it's "ok" to short shift 2nd and the transmission work may not be a necessity. "Nickel and diming" me to death is different with a motorcycle. Cheaper and not 100% dependent on its functionality so I'm definitely willing put in the time and effort as long as I don't wear out my welcome on your forum asking too many questions (without offering anything in return!)!!!

[Marcarl]

Just so you know,,,,,,,,this forum doesn't exist because it makes money, it is only here for us to help each other. If we fail in that then the forum is will soon become useless. That being said, the spinoff is that many of us became/become friends and so would drastically miss this forum, so in that way you are helping out a great deal more than you think.

[saddlebum]

1 hour ago, JFootman said:

 I'm definitely willing put in the time and effort as long as I don't wear out my welcome on your forum asking too many questions (without offering anything in return!)!!!

Firstly You need to  be a seriously nasty and/or have an extremely bad attitude here to wear out your welcome.   Secondly You cannot ask too many questions its not possible. This site thrives on sharing. Even those of us that know our way around these bikes fairly well and can solve most issues, still find ourselves learning new things and are always intrigued when a new puzzle presents itself because in the process of trying to solve the issue we are inadvertently adding to our own knowledge base so we can be even more helpful down the road. So carry on and don't be afraid to share the challenge.

[circa1968]

Regarding the dark oil...I read a recommendation here to add Seafoam into the crankcase, shortly before an oil change, to help break up any sludge.  I now do that on my Venture and also on my other vehicles.  I have a '98 F150 that mostly sits, sometimes weeks+ at a time.  When I first added Seafoam about 50 miles before an oil change, I was shocked what kinda gunk was coming out when I drained the oil.  Seems that the seafoam did loosen some stuff up in there.

Also, when I change oil on the venture, I let it drain for at least 30 mins, put the plug back in then hop on the bike and lean it side to side as well as apply the front brake & rock back/forth, put it back on the side stand, pull the plug and presto: more oil comes out.  I will do this several times over the next 30 minutes. 

Once I put fresh oil in, it actually looks like fresh clean oil in the little window.

You are definitely adding value here for guys like me who are learning as we go and trust me, this group will give you support no matter what your level of knowledge or skill.  They pushed, prodded, encouraged and taught me and now my bike runs like a champ!  Forever grateful.

[JFootman]

Quick update. Went out to try and take video of the bike starting and running. Wouldn't start until I remembered it was in or in between gears so pulled clutch while starting. Starter engaged and lunged forward a bit despite full pull of clutch. Turned off and tried again but same result. Gear indicator showed 4th (as opposed to blank last night). Let it sit & tried again with no lurch. Remarkably was able to keep clutch pulled and shifted into neutral. Wouldn't go into first until I shut her off & did the "Puk Rock" and dropped into first after running back up through the gears.

I think I'm going to pull the clutch tonight or tomorrow. Welcome any words of wisdom & insight!

Here's a video walk-around for anyone wanting to offer their $0.02 on the validity of ~65k miles.

 

Edited May 28, 2021 by JFootman

[Marcarl]

I wouldn't argue with the mileage.