Front and rear wheel removal -- Level of Difficulty

[luvmy40]

10 hours ago, vulcanb822 said:

 

What am I securing the front end to with the tie down strap?

Like Marcarl said, anything secure/heavy enough to keep the front end down while you work on the rear. I think I used a bucket of scrap metal last time I did this.

Edited May 2, 2021 by luvmy40

[vulcanb822]

Well I finally got some time to work on the bike. Using all the useful information posted, I was able to get both wheels off. I don't know why I was so worried about not having enough clearance. Once I removed the from wheel, the rear wheel was way up in the air. I had some difficulty removing the cotter pin but ultimately was able to get it out. Also had some difficulty getting enough leverage and clearance to remove the final drive bolts. Tomorrow, a shop will mount and balance my new tires. Attached are some pictures. I am sure I will back asking questions when I am reinstalling the wheels. Thanks for all the good advice. I would not have gotten this far without it.  

[vulcanb822]

Happy 4th to all.  Finally got some time to get back to putting on my wheels.  I got everything back on, started it up and the bike would not move.  My guess is I screwed up something with the brakes.  Any ideas or suggestions before I start taking the wheels off again?

[Marcarl]

Did you loose the 'washer spacer' that sits inside and flush with the wheel? Did you install the large washer in the proper sequence?

[SpencerPJ]

11 hours ago, Marcarl said:

Did you loose the 'washer spacer' that sits inside and flush with the wheel? Did you install the large washer in the proper sequence?

This washer is what Marcarl is asking about

Edited July 5, 2021 by SpencerPJ

[vulcanb822]

I went back and took off front wheel and then rear wheel.  Replaced everything, making sure to put spacer in correct spot and wheel still does not move freely.  It seems almost as if the brakes are on.  Spencer, the amount of axle shown in your picture is when everything is torqued to specifications?  My axle goes in past the holes in the axle.

 

[Marcarl]

1 hour ago, vulcanb822 said:

I went back and took off front wheel and then rear wheel.  Replaced everything, making sure to put spacer in correct spot and wheel still does not move freely.  It seems almost as if the brakes are on.  Spencer, the amount of axle shown in your picture is when everything is torqued to specifications?  My axle goes in past the holes in the axle.

 

I'm tinking you might be missing the spacer washer that sits inside the wheel hub then. Can you take some pictures for us?

[vulcanb822]

Here are some pictures. I actually added a couple of washers in this picture just to see if it would help. 

[RDawson]

37 minutes ago, vulcanb822 said:

Here are some pictures. I actually added a couple of washers in this picture just to see if it would help. 

You don’t want the extra washers. 

[Marcarl]

Looks like a missing spacer. Go back to the garage and see if it's laying around the tire machine somewhere, or in the vehicle you used to get it there. It looks like a really thick washer with an extra collar on it. The collar matches the spacer/bearing inside the wheel.

[SpencerPJ]

13 hours ago, vulcanb822 said:

Spencer, the amount of axle shown in your picture is when everything is torqued to specifications?

Correct

Here are a couple other pictures that might be of help, 

 

[vulcanb822]

I checked my garage and the back of my truck for the missing spacer.  No luck.  Went over to the shop that replaced the tires for me and the shop is closed this week with the owner on vacation.  Since it's been so long (over two months) from when I had the tires replaced, I am doubtful the spacer is there.  So, I ordered the spacer from a dealer.  The dealer told me it would arrive in 4-5 business days.  Hopefully I ordered the right part.  (90387-200J2-00 COLLAR)

Thanks to everyone for all the guidance and help so far. 

 

[vulcanb822]

Well, I found the spacer (mechanic found it and set it aside for me).  With the spacer in place, got the wheel on and rolling freely.  But now I have a new problem.  When I go put the bike in gear, it cuts off.  It seems that my clutch cable is out of adjustment.  I have to have it fully in just to start it.  Did I somehow get it out of adjustment during the wheel removal/installation process?

[Marcarl]

3 minutes ago, vulcanb822 said:

Well, I found the spacer (mechanic found it and set it aside for me).  With the spacer in place, got the wheel on and rolling freely.  But now I have a new problem.  When I go put the bike in gear, it cuts off.  It seems that my clutch cable is out of adjustment.  I have to have it fully in just to start it.  Did I somehow get it out of adjustment during the wheel removal/installation process?

Try making sure that your kick stand is up and the switch is working

[vulcanb822]

Just confirmed that kick stand is up and light goes off when I put kick stand up.  Shuts off immediately after putting it in gear. 

[Marcarl]

3 hours ago, vulcanb822 said:

Just confirmed that kick stand is up and light goes off when I put kick stand up.  Shuts off immediately after putting it in gear. 

There is a switch attached to  the kick stand that caused the bike to die if the kick stand is down and bike is in gear. Guess you know that anyways. Work the kickstand back and forth a few time, let it bang on the way up to see if the switch is maybe stuck. Can't think of anything else that might cause that to happen. There's no adjustment to the clutch and if there was it would not cause what you are describing. The clutch is hydrolic so can run out of fluid, but has no impact on engine running.

[vulcanb822]

It seems like there is no play in the clutch lever.  The lever touches the handlebar with no pressure whatsoever.  It's almost like I am shifting without pulling in the clutch.

 

[RDawson]

30 minutes ago, vulcanb822 said:

It seems like there is no play in the clutch lever.  The lever touches the handlebar with no pressure whatsoever.  It's almost like I am shifting without pulling in the clutch.

 

Check fluid in the clutch reservoir, bleed it. 

[Marcarl]

5 minutes ago, RDawson said:

Check fluid in the clutch reservoir, bleed it. 

And clean it out like you are sanitizing it.

[vulcanb822]

The glass is a little cloudy but it looks like the fluid is low.  As a check, I looked at the glass for the front brake and I can see the level move when I turn the handlebars.  So tomorrow I will put some brake fluid in there.  When you say clean it out like I am sanitizing, should I try to get out any existing fluid before adding fresh brake fluid?

[RDawson]

I would suck out all you can, clean the reservoir, and flush new fluid through the whole system. Make sure no fluid gets on the plastic body parts, wash immediately if it does. Brake fluid melts ABS plastic. 

[Jayceesfolly]

When replacing the fluid, note that there is a line on the outside of the reservoir that indicates the minimum level of the fluid.  Also, turn the handlebars to make the reservoir level before filling.

[Marcarl]

10 hours ago, vulcanb822 said:

The glass is a little cloudy but it looks like the fluid is low.  As a check, I looked at the glass for the front brake and I can see the level move when I turn the handlebars.  So tomorrow I will put some brake fluid in there.  When you say clean it out like I am sanitizing, should I try to get out any existing fluid before adding fresh brake fluid?

I would suck out all the old fluid, then use brake clean to wash out the reservoir, and then do it again, all the corners and crevices. Dry it out with a clean cloth, gently blow some air to finish the drying and then add new fluid. Only fill to about the half-way mark. The system doesn't ever use any fluid so no need to fill it up to the top. If you do fill it full then you run the risk of having the fluid expand when it gets hot and then it will push the clutch plates apart.

[vulcanb822]

Do I need to bleed the system? 

 

[vulcanb822]

Marcari,  just saw your message to bleed it.  What is the process to bleed it?