Hitch mount carrier?

[Pasta Burner]

Any suggestions or experience using a hitch mount motorcycle carrier?  I really don’t have a desire to store a trailer but the hitch mounts I’ve found are only rated up to 600lb about 150lb less than the weight of a Gen1.  I’m not shy about pushing the limits but looking for ideas/experience.  This would be going on the back of my Expedition.

or does anyone know of a trailer that’s specifically for a motorcycle? Narrow single track thing, not a utility trailer.

or if Uhaul sells used ones?

I want this for a few reasons, one vacationing with the family but being able to ride and explore while there, and work trips for the same reason.

[Pasta Burner]

Ok so literally a minute after posting this I came across this video.  Still want to hear any suggestions experience.

 

 

[djh3]

Well I have some questions. I have seen many many racks for luggage on racks in the  receiver. They teeter back and forth a bunch unless they strap them to bumper. So I do not see any kind of stabilizing to keep this thing from rocking to a fro. So do you really want to trust a single connection with 900#+ ?? And exactly what is the tounge weight rating on the hitch/vehicle your towing with? I dont think I would use it, all I can vision is my bike bouncing down the road after this thing breaks off.

[uncledj]

I'm not diggin' it.

I have a similar hauler that I use on my motorhome to haul a BMW 650 enduro bike, and it's not as easy as shown to load even that ??? 350 ??? pound bike up.   Once it's loaded up, it does rock / rotate  up and down quite a bit.   I don't know that it's an issue, but it is annoying.   I must also say that with the distance from the hitch, there's a lot of leverage there.   I'm sure the weight is beyond the rated hitch capacity, and the distance / leverage amplifies the problem.    I also wonder with the weight hanging 3' off the back of the bumper,  how much it'd affect steering and such....changing the dynamics of weight distribution going down the road.

  Trailers can be a pain, but my experience tells me that, if properly maintained and loaded,....they're the safe bet.

[Stasher1]

How often do you intend to haul your bike? 

 

U-haul has some really nice little motorcycle trailers that they rent out for dirt cheap. You could haul your bike several times a year, for multiple years, before you got anywhere near the cost of owning a trailer. 

The only problem I've had with the U-haul motorcycle trailers is the fact that they're not available for one-way rentals and must be returned to the same location where you picked it up. I was told that this is because these particular trailers aren't owned by U-haul corporate, but by the independent locations actually renting them out.   

[RDawson]

Search rampless trailers and watch some videos. I’m considering one if the day comes we decide to haul the bike, now we just ride the whole trips. No way I’d put a heavy bike on the hitch. 

[Stasher1]

I'd also be worried about the overall length of the bike compared to the width of the tow vehicle. My '06 RSV, for example, is significantly longer than the width of my 2012 Tundra. 

[Pasta Burner]

These are all good points and the reason I asked before moving forward.  I’m still having a hard time believing 1000lbs hanging as mentioned 3’ off the back of a receiver lasting too long, also pushing 800lbs up that ramp ain’t gonna happen, would need to find a good hill or high curb to help.  I found the same issue with u-haul being round trip and also in my area a 5 day max.

so after pondering a little today I realized I’m an idiot.  I already have a trailer!!!!  I have an old Highlander (Shoreliner) bunk trailer from my Hobie 16 that I got rid of when I moved (sold the boat, kept the trailer).  It’s been propped up against my garage wall for the past six years.  I initially counted it out because of the 4.80-8 tires and low speed rating.  And I haven’t put it together here because one lack of need and two lack of storage, I need to remove a fence panel or install a gate.  Then I realized all I need is new highway tires and maybe adjusting the fenders.  Measures 5’w X 10’l plus tongue.  Single leaf spring with 1800lb capacity. 

[djh3]

I was thinking along those lines when I read your post the other nite. You can find a piece of channel at a local metal shop and bolt or weld it rite on there. Some highway acceptable tieres, repack wheel bearing with high temp bearing grease and you should be good. 

[Pasta Burner]

8 hours ago, djh3 said:

I was thinking along those lines when I read your post the other nite. You can find a piece of channel at a local metal shop and bolt or weld it rite on there. Some highway acceptable tieres, repack wheel bearing with high temp bearing grease and you should be good. 

Yeah I’m debating if I want to put a channel on or maybe decking to double it up as a utility trailer.  If I go the channel method I could easily hang it on my wall for storage.  One thing to take into account is if I keep it under 500lbs I don’t have to register it.  Bearings, axle and tires are brand new. 

[Flyinfool]

No way it will be under 500 with your bike on it. The state usually goes by GVW not by empty weight.

[Pasta Burner]

2 hours ago, Flyinfool said:

No way it will be under 500 with your bike on it. The state usually goes by GVW not by empty weight.

I was mistaken it’s 750 but your statement would still apply.  I’m gonna take my chances as my interpretation of the rule is the trailer itself.

https://dmv.utah.gov/vehicles/trailers

[djh3]

Yup I'm with you. I dont see any place it says trailer GVW, just "trailers weighing more than 750#" Its easier to ask forgiveness than permission.

[djh3]

Seen a few of these down here in Fla in the winter from up north folks.

https://www.rvforum.net/data/attachments/34/34853-423910e63e15110f8a176e769ac9fb58.jpg

[saddlebum]

7 hours ago, djh3 said:

Yup I'm with you. I dont see any place it says trailer GVW, just "trailers weighing more than 750#" Its easier to ask forgiveness than permission.

I do not think forgiveness is required it clearly states trailer weighing more than 750 lbs it does not say a loaded trailer or GVW. So I would take that as curb weight of trailer only and would argue that if I were to get stopped or charged.

[saddlebum]

On 4/22/2021 at 8:25 PM, Pasta Burner said:

These are all good points and the reason I asked before moving forward.  I’m still having a hard time believing 1000lbs hanging as mentioned 3’ off the back of a receiver lasting too long, also pushing 800lbs up that ramp ain’t gonna happen, would need to find a good hill or high curb to help.  I found the same issue with u-haul being round trip and also in my area a 5 day max.

so after pondering a little today I realized I’m an idiot.  I already have a trailer!!!!  I have an old Highlander (Shoreliner) bunk trailer from my Hobie 16 that I got rid of when I moved (sold the boat, kept the trailer).  It’s been propped up against my garage wall for the past six years.  I initially counted it out because of the 4.80-8 tires and low speed rating.  And I haven’t put it together here because one lack of need and two lack of storage, I need to remove a fence panel or install a gate.  Then I realized all I need is new highway tires and maybe adjusting the fenders.  Measures 5’w X 10’l plus tongue.  Single leaf spring with 1800lb capacity. 

 

 

You could always replace them with 530/12. the bolt pattern would be the same and you can choose between 4 ply approx 850 lbs at 55 psi or 6 ply approx 1050 lbs at 80 psi.. You can often find sales on rim and tire assembly's for about the cost of a tire.

Edited April 24, 2021 by saddlebum

[Pasta Burner]

8 hours ago, djh3 said:

https://www.rvforum.net/data/attachments/34/34853-423910e63e15110f8a176e769ac9fb58.jpg

That’s interesting, same concept but gives the support we all seemed to feel needed.

 

51 minutes ago, saddlebum said:

You could always replace them with 530/12. the bolt pattern would be the same and you can choose between 4 ply approx 850 lbs at 55 psi or 6 ply approx 1050 lbs at 80 psi.. You can often find sales on rim and tire assembly's for about the cost of a tire.

I just looked into that, I think I’d be in the same place as far as speed rating.  Our posted limits are 80 and there is rumor of 85 test zones.  My plan is to put it together and take it to a local trailer dealer and see what they can offer.  Also pretty much decided on expanded steel decking, so hopefully they can point me in the right direction for that locally.  If I don’t like what they have to offer I’ve picked out a couple choices.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tires-and-Wheels/Kenda/AM3H390.html
 

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tires-and-Wheels/Kenda/AM31951.html

 

I’m leaning toward the radial vs. bias ply.  Thoughts on that?  I see very limited off road use.  But the bias is cheaper and can go faster.

 

[saddlebum]

speed rating of tire is usually designated by a letter on the tire side wall see chart below

 

	75 mph	120 km/h
M	81 mph	130 km/h
N	87 mph	140km/h
P	93 mph	150 km/h
Q	99 mph	160 km/h
R	106 mph	170 km/h
S	112 mph	180 km/h
T	118 mph	190 km/h
U	124 mph	200 km/h
H	130 mph	210 km/h
V	149 mph	240 km/h

 

[Pasta Burner]

Thanks @saddlebum I knew about the codes but what I was coming across is a lot of trailer tires in these smaller sizes don’t contain a speed code.  Looks like I can get the same tire and rim setup with a 87mph and load C rating for $55. 
https://www.harborfreight.com/530-12in-tire-with-5-lug-rim-load-c-64235.html

discount tire also carries them for $32 for just the tire so replacements should be readily available should the need arise.

as a go back to avoiding registration, aside from the hassle and cost, when I lived in PA I was ultimately unable to register this trailer because I couldn’t prove ownership.  Highlander didn’t put VIN plates or even serialize the trailers at that time.  I don’t remember all of the hoops and bull I was going to jump through but it wasn’t pretty or cheap.  If memory serves I was going to have to claim it as a home built trailer and get it inspected all of which cost bit by bit more and more.  Ended up relocating shortly after finding all that out and haven’t thought about any of it till the other day when I started this thread.  Not sure if Utah would give me the same runaround trying to title it and I don’t want to find out 😁

[Pasta Burner]

Forgot about that little bend.  Some redneck Ingenuity and I’m back in business.

[Marcarl]

Make sure you measure the frame after you get it straight, bet the one side will be a bit longer than the other, so you'll have to compensate with mounting the axle of it will fishtail on yah.

[RDawson]

Is it just me or is the axle too far forward for good pulling?

[dfitzbiz]

12 hours ago, RDawson said:

Is it just me or is the axle too far forward for good pulling?

Hey RD, I think the view from the rear gives us an optical illusion.  What I can gather from looking at all of the pics is that the overall length of the trailer appears to be about 16'.  About 6' of tongue and 2 sections of bed at 5' each.  As a rule of thumb the axle would be placed 60% of the length of the entire trailer from the tongue or about 9.6'  From what I can gather from the pics it appears to be about right.  Of course the tongue weight should be between 10% and 15% of the loaded trailer.  I would guess the trailer weight at about 500# and the RSV at 1,000# so tongue weight not less than 150# and not more than 225# should work.  I believe this tongue weight could also be achieved by moving the load forward or back.  These dimensions and weights should be verified by Pasta Burner.  I'm sure he will PM us with any questions.  

[Flyinfool]

The tongue measured from axle to ball should be 1.5 to 2 times the width of the axle. You look to good there.

Weight distribution is also critical to get the proper tongue weight.

The location of the axle to the rest of the trailer is irrelevant.

[SpencerPJ]

VERY important to have 10-15% tongue weight.