Tips for removing stripped oil filter cover bolt?

[Pasta Burner]

Tried a universal socket thing, and vice grips but the magnesium housing is too soft to get too aggressive.

[Squidley]

Are you planning on replacing it once you get it off?

[luvmy40]

I can highly recommend going to the spin on adapter. I never put one on The Beast, but I installed one on my "86 the day I brought her home. I'll never go back to the cartridge and cover.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Filter-Adapter-plate-83-93-Yamaha-Venture-Clear-Anodized/261045385834?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

[Midicat]

I had exactly the same problem with stock oil filter cover. My bolt looked just like yours. I bought this as a last ditch effort to get it off. Worked like a charm. The spiral edges inside the socket dig into the bolt head and don't let it go. 

Worth the money and saved a lot of aggravation. 

[MoonShine]

Try cutting a slot in the center of the bolt with a hacksaw or cutting wheel on a die grinder.  Get a flat tip bit on an impact drill in the slot and go easy on the trigger. 

Good luck!

[Pasta Burner]

15 hours ago, Squidley said:

Are you planning on replacing it once you get it off?

Probably because I don’t want to mess with time and time again.  The spin on adapter looks like a fine alternative.  Anybody else have good luck?

[Midicat]

Yes. The whole purpose of removing it was to switch to a spin-on adapter. That bolt was looking far too tired to keep doing this for much longer. 😂

[ken5124]

I went to the spin on adapter as well  last year.. works  perfect.

 

[Pasta Burner]

3 hours ago, Midicat said:

Yes. The whole purpose of removing it was to switch to a spin-on adapter. That bolt was looking far too tired to keep doing this for much longer. 😂

Sounds like the right investment considering I’d be replacing it anyway.  That bolt extractor kit looks wicked familiar to me but I can’t for the life or me place where I’ve used one.  I didn’t find it in my Arsenal so maybe I borrowed one sometime.  I have a kit for stripped screw heads but not hex.

[djh3]

Those are nice. When it comes to screws I like the ones that look like a torx bit and have a six sided top.

[Midicat]

18 hours ago, Pasta Burner said:

Sounds like the right investment considering I’d be replacing it anyway.  That bolt extractor kit looks wicked familiar to me but I can’t for the life or me place where I’ve used one.  I didn’t find it in my Arsenal so maybe I borrowed one sometime.  I have a kit for stripped screw heads but not hex.

Amazon has them. 

[Pasta Burner]

Spin on adapter came in just a couple days and seems to be working perfectly with no leaks.  To get the old bolt and cover off I bought an extractor set like @Midicat posted from Harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-socket-set-9-pc-67894.html

the 12mm didn't grip but tapping the 11mm on it grabbed with the GI Joe Kung Fu Grip, used a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and breaker bar and made short work of the whole process.

I remember when I used one of those extractor sockets now, I know I used it on a lug nut on my Wrangler and I’d put money in I had rented it from my local auto store way back in the day.  
 

thanks all for the help.

[saddlebum]

Sorry to be the devils advocate but when I checked the price of that adapter and since I have no issue with the stock filter setup,  I figure I can buy a lot of filters for that money. Biggest reason those bolts are hard to take out is the tendency people have for over tightening them.

[luvmy40]

At least for me, the spin on adapter is less about saving money and more about convenience.

The filters available from any auto parts store and there is no chance of pinching the O-Ring gasket or stripping the bolt.

[Pasta Burner]

37 minutes ago, saddlebum said:

Sorry to be the devils advocate but when I checked the price of that adapter and since I have no issue with the stock filter setup,  I figure I can buy a lot of filters for that money. Biggest reason those bolts are hard to take out is the tendency people have for over tightening them.

It was for sure over tightened as I could barely get a socket on it to begin with.  Figuring I was going to replace the bolt anyway the cost of the adapter is a wash.  My local Yamaha dealer selling the bolt for $65, adapter to my door $70 plus the filter being half the price I came out even.  Bolt is maybe salvageable so I’ll keep it with the cover in case someday myself or another member needs it.

[ginblueearth]

I know this is kind of an old subject, looking at the date. But I've had Gold Wings I now. I purchased the 1989 Yamaha Ventura Royale. So I know just what you have to do when you have. Those type of oil filters and covers to take off. When you change the oil, the first thing you need is a six point socket. So you don't round the Bolt off. That's the most important thing you can do. Then when you put it back on, don't tighten the heck out of it. The six point socket will keep it from rounding off. Don't use a 12 point socket. If you're going to use a wrench, use a 12 point wrench. Don't over tighten it. Same thing with the drain plug? Change washer on the drain plug every time you drain the oil. When you do that, you don't need to over tighten it. If you'd like to buy one of those fancy adapter deals for spin on oil filter, that's a great thing. But in my books, you're just throwing away your money. Just get a six point socket and a six point wrench. And you'll be just fine. Use a little common sense. And if you happen to buy a used bike and it's on there a little tight, Hit it with a hammer first. That'll loosen it up.

[Pasta Burner]

8 hours ago, ginblueearth said:

I know this is kind of an old subject, looking at the date. But I've had Gold Wings I now. I purchased the 1989 Yamaha Ventura Royale. So I know just what you have to do when you have. Those type of oil filters and covers to take off. When you change the oil, the first thing you need is a six point socket. So you don't round the Bolt off. That's the most important thing you can do. Then when you put it back on, don't tighten the heck out of it. The six point socket will keep it from rounding off. Don't use a 12 point socket. If you're going to use a wrench, use a 12 point wrench. Don't over tighten it. Same thing with the drain plug? Change washer on the drain plug every time you drain the oil. When you do that, you don't need to over tighten it. If you'd like to buy one of those fancy adapter deals for spin on oil filter, that's a great thing. But in my books, you're just throwing away your money. Just get a six point socket and a six point wrench. And you'll be just fine. Use a little common sense. And if you happen to buy a used bike and it's on there a little tight, Hit it with a hammer first. That'll loosen it up.

This is great advice and I agree with using a six point.  The issue in this case is that I acquired the bike with an already rounded bolt.  The cost of the adapter and convenience of a spin on filter far outweighed the cost of replacing the bolt.

[saddlebum]

Another issue with over tightening is that since your threading into aluminum, too much force can tear the threads. A lot of times these bolts get over tightened due to insecurities. If not confident of your sense of feel you can always invest in a quality inch/ lb torque wrench, and tighten the bolt to the proper spec. This would apply to the drain plug as well. It is a worthwhile investment since each time you over tighten anything threaded into aluminum you distort and eventually damage the threads.

[skydoc_17]

Saddlebum is correct! When you screw a steel fastener into an Aluminum Case, the expansion/contraction of the steel is different than the Aluminum. I personally use a touch of Anti-Seize on the threads of the bolt to insure that the bolt can be removed later on. I believe that the cartridge filter is of a much better quality than a "Spin On" filter. Out of all of the Maintenance items on our Ventures, this filter will punish you the most if you get "Heavy Handed" during the install. FWIW, I have had really good luck drilling the head off of the bolt, removing the canister, and vice gripping the remaining remnant of the bolt out. Here again, if you get careless with the drill bit, (I always center drill the pilot hole first) you will not only destroy the bolt head, but also the canister as well. But there are NO special tools needed using this method. My brother is an electrical genius, but you can't let that boy tighten ANYTHING on a mechanical assembly! He has the "Paws" of a bear, and unless you NEVER want that fastener to come off again, I usually do the final assembly work, and leave the "Heavy Lifting" to him! Just sayin'.

Earl.