Running Rich!!

[Flash105]

750 miles from home in Daytona, bike is popping and loading up at low speeds, any quick suggestions??  Also smell fuel 

[RDawson]

16 minutes ago, Flash105 said:

750 miles from home in Daytona, bike is popping and loading up at low speeds, any quick suggestions??  Also smell fuel 

Checked plugs? Make sure it’s running on all 4 cylinders. 

[Flash105]

All new plugs and wires 

[RDawson]

When parked is there a puddle of gas indicating a stuck float? All 4 pipes heating up equally? Going really rich all at once is unusual. 

[Flash105]

Don’t see any fuel.  Seem like the popping is more on the right side, passenger side !  Thought it may be a fuel mixture screw I could adjust on 

[Pro procrastinator]

Does your oil smell like gas? Could be affecting the clutch as well

[saddlebum]

2 hours ago, Flash105 said:

All new plugs and wires 

Can still have a failing plug, its happened to me before.

Also check for proper spark on all four wires in case you have an ignition fault.

Watch for fuel dripping on the ground while the bike is idling or just turn the key on until the pump stops turn it off & 0n again until the pump stops repeat several times and watch for fuel dripping on the ground. If it is you have a bad or stuck open needle seat in one of the carbs.

May want to do a compression or leak down test to see if any of the valves are compromised in any way such as not seating properly due to tight valve set or sticking valve stem or burnt valve.

Edited March 11, 2021 by saddlebum

[Flash105]

The more I ride the worst it gets.   I can’t imagine. 

[Stasher1]

A weak battery or failing charging system component (stator, regulator/rectifier) could lead to misfire at low speeds due to weak spark. It may appear to be running rich due to the excessive gas smell, but that may simply be due to incomplete combustion.

Edited March 12, 2021 by Stasher1

[RDawson]

I would pull the plugs first thing to try to get a read on them. It should give you an idea where to look further. 
A second thought is did you get bad gas at your last fill up? I stopped at a Mom n Pop station last year going up to meet Eykamp and my bike started running rough. I got less than a 100 miles on that tank, it took about 3 tanks of fresh gas to completely purge that stuff out. 

[saddlebum]

14 hours ago, Flash105 said:

The more I ride the worst it gets.   I can’t imagine. 

Hate to say it but I am going to toss this into the mix because it does have some validity as a possibility, but as the engine warms up valve clearance gets tighter as the heat causes expansion. So if your clearances are too tight to start with than as the engine heats up the valves will not close properly in time this can cause valve damage. I realize of all the suggestions above,all of which are very valid, this is the least likely and I would prefer to be wrong but its not impossible. It may not be a bad idea to recheck your valve clearances. Doing this may also help detect a valve that may be starting to recede into the head. Sounds nasty and it is if you do find a faulty valve but on the other hand if all you find is the tolerances are too tight you may get away with just changing shims (you will need to buy or borrow a shim kit for this). Checking and re-setting valve clearances is a lot less work than removing and overhauling the carbs. Roughly two to three hours work if its your 1st time doing this. If your careful removing the valve covers and don't damage the gaskets, you can reuse them if they are still pliable. I smear a thin coat of red hi temp silicone on the gasket surfaces  and around the valve cover bolt holes if I reuse the old gaskets and seals. Make sure to clean the surfaces with brake clean 1st.

Venture Valve Adjustment Procedure.docx VALVE SHIM ADJUSTMENT V4 1200 & 1300.pdf

Edited March 12, 2021 by saddlebum

[videoarizona]

One question:

When you use the tool to raise the valves up to measure... You turn the motor counterclockwise. Which direction do you go to release the tool? Turn it backwards or continue on counterclockwise?

[WIZ]

You have to turn it backwards to remove the tool.

[Marcarl]

Lay the tool on the square part of the cam shaft, rotate the engine so that the tool turns to the outside of the head tail first. Carefully rotate and watch that the edges on the tool catch the buckets on both valves nice and square. Rotate until you feel a stopping/increase of resistance. Shims should now be available for removal. Use a pick or small screwdriver to pop them up and use a magnet to lift them out. You will have to do a test and reset to get the tool in the right position for all this to happen properly.