Bike not running

[videoarizona]

Some additional thoughts: When you've worked on the carbs, and it seems to take a while to prime them....the problem is the bike has an auto shut off. The fuel pump stops after 3 to 4 seconds. This is a safety feature. Simply turn off/on the handlebar emergency switch and the pump will come back on. Do this a few times until you hear the pump stop on it's own. Now your carb bows are full and she's ready to fire. Saves battery and starter...

Yes on valves. They tend to always get to tight...rarely loose. Get them done and back to carbs.

If you still experience revving issues, look for a vacuum leak. 

She may be a bit cold blooded with the pilots at 2 turns. Once you get the carbs running better and balanced...you can reach in and adjust each pilot for best RPM. This is not as accurate as an exhaust analyzer, but not all of us have one. Double check the carb balance afterwards just to make sure all is well. Note: You will probably have to keep turning down the idle screw to stay around 1K rpm. 

I have 2 Ventures, an 89 and a 2nd gen 05. The 89 starts and runs well after about 15 seconds on choke, the 05 is cold blooded. Needs much longer on choke. Thankfully, our "chokes" are enrichment circuits and the motors can handle additional time at higher idle to warm up without to many issues. I've never had an issue with the 05 running a few minutes on choke.

Lastly, do a google search for our type of carbs. Lots of info there about how the fuel/air mixture goes from the pilot(idle) jet all the way to the main jet. Or, better yet, download the manual from this site and read up. I suggest this so you have a better understanding of what might be going on when she stumbles on acceleration. Although, I think once you get the valves done, you should be able to get the carbs straight and problems will go away.

Good luck and keep us informed....

 

OH forgot to add.....After I got my 89...I took off all 4 of my plug wires from the coils. Found all were a tad green at the ends. Cut off 1/4 inch. Found one of the "O" rings that is supposed to help hold the wire in the coil was on the outside of the coil. Doesn't work to well there! Once I cleaned up the wire ends, I inserted the coil cap, then the "O" ring, back on the wire and put a little dab of dielectric grease around the "O" ring. Then pushed the wire back into the coil. Gently screwed the coil cap(or whatever it's called) back on. Ran much better.

 

Edited November 28, 2020 by videoarizona
add thought

[Patch]

All right looks look at the basics: Cold hard starting

So an essential is compression we don't see any numbers posted? These early models we often see with very high numbers, if so then there would be carbon buildup on all areas that form the combustion chamber (picture this in a cross section @ TDC) That carbon will first need to soak the fuel up like a sponge just as the when cold we add fuel to richen the mix due to the tendency for fuel to separate and cling to the cold metal surfaces!

Next lash @ 0.08 is still lash so that can't be the issue for cold starts. But compression will prove that so tract the numbers.

After turn the engine over for 10 seconds (carbs full) are the Plugs wet? Here;s a list to figure out why if so:

the coils are being fed  with too low a voltage: measure volts at the coil input. 

the pickup coils are shot won't energize when cold: measure ohms at pickup coil connection.

the engine turns to slow when cold: the engines need about 5-600 rpm to build compression or the displacement leaks past into the crankcase; or the vacuum generated is low due to the slow rotation.

The best way to check the system is with the use of a spark gap tester. They are less than $10.00 and easily found. You would like to see an ark of 1/2" +/- that will cover the ignition system and remove any doubts.

I assume your carb setting are correct, the floats are set and not flooding, your enrichers are not to tight or leaking. Your air box is in place even tho the lid is off and without filter for this problem of cold starting (velocity is critical) and also tied to rpm.

compression, voltage, gap test, in that order will get you on the road quicker.  post your findings and we can help

 

[larrydr]

I had a customers 1995 XV1100 Virago in my shop with problem much like that.

I was reading 4.7k ohm on the plugs and 5 to 7 k ohms on the plug cap  over 9 ohms at each cylinder .

The bike system was designed to run on 4.7k ohms on each plug . ( Yamaha specs were to use a non -resistor plug)

I ended up going to a new set of plug caps at 4.7k ohms each

A new set of non-resistor plugs , problem solved  .