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Well, It finally Happened!


skydoc_17

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24 minutes ago, sleepy2 said:

Would I need to change my drain plugs since I changed mine in the spring when I changed  anti-freeze?

What is  price of plugs at Performance?

So far Phantom Wife might get me to go with Pioneer considering difference between them --around $240 -gaskets-bolts-plugs if needed

I've changed my coolant and re-used the plugs without issue.  I don't think you need to change them every time you remove them.  If you did them fairly recently I don't think you need to.

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From Mary at Performance Cycle - "The only way to buy the sealing rubbers for the 2012-2013 is the bolts come with them. you probably could use them on your bike as well, however they are b/o from Yamaha and b/o have been taking up to 2 months."

I've sent her an email asking if the pre-2012 bolt/rubbers could be used on your bike.  I don't see why not since she suggested the 2012-2013 bolts could be used on mine.  I also asked if the bolts on yours need to be changed when replacing the gasket.

See if Pioneer (U.S.) has the bolts for yours.  I'll post Mary's response when I receive it confirming you can use pre-2012 bolts/rubbers on your bike.  Her email is Performance Cycle <sales@performancecycle.ca>

I've ordered the gaskets, rubbers, and plugs for the cylinder drain for mine.

FYI - From Mary - "The sealing rubbers # 5EA-1111G-00-00 up to 2011 $16.31 each and for 2012-2013 # 5SL-1119E-00-00 (which are the bolts & rubbers) $5.95 each but b/o."

Edited by XV1100SE
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Check out these links the last two are complete gasket sets but the price for the complete set is less than gasket and seals bought seperatly by the look of it.

https://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=122632

https://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=121166

https://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=121613

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Guessing there is no major rush to get all this accomplished, seeing as we will be sitting at home pouting about how much white stuff we have or haven't, why the temperature keeps staying so low when we don't have any snow anyways, and how we could possibly get together to do this work and yet stay put at home. It could be a real puzzle for sure, wonder if there are any manuals out there to figure this all out, maybe with a schematic.

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1 hour ago, Marcarl said:

Guessing there is no major rush to get all this accomplished, seeing as we will be sitting at home pouting about how much white stuff we have or haven't, why the temperature keeps staying so low when we don't have any snow anyways, and how we could possibly get together to do this work and yet stay put at home. It could be a real puzzle for sure, wonder if there are any manuals out there to figure this all out, maybe with a schematic.

Well you have until MD to get it done. 

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I asked Mary at Performance Cycle when I picked mine up if you had to replace those bolts...she said the rubber could harden over time so good to replace them.

The new bolts are "only" for putting it all back together.  Could still check valve clearances and use 3 old bolts just to button it up but not complete the assembly until you get the 3 new ones in.  Not going to be riding for a few months anyway.  I'm sure Carl wouldn't charge much for storage.

 

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I know I am one of the biggest proponents of OEM or at least Japanese after market for gaskets, BUT...

The one time cheap worked was with the valve cover cushions. The valve cover gaskets I got with them were worthless, but the bolt cushions worked fine with an OEM gasket on my '83.

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unfortunately no luck with any dealerships locally or out of the area.  The ETA on 3 of the bolts is mid-january, so I would just suggest sitting tight on this project for a couple of weeks.  I'll let you know when all are here.  Thanks Phil and Merry Christmas.

 

Chad Armstrong

Pioneer Motorsport

Just got this e-mail last night. Hopefully this will work time wise what with lock-down imposed!  What you think?

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Let me relate an actual story ....

My first bike was a Kawasaki KZ305 (cruiser).  Don't remember why (probably leaking gaskets) but I rebuilt the motor.  Took the valves in to a shop to get them lapped and was told 3 needed to be replaced but the 4th was fine.

Rode the bike for about 2 months....was running better than when I got it.  On my way to work one day the motor started spinning up and I lost power.  One of the valves broke and bounced around inside the cylinder.  Ended up having to buy (after finding one) a new motor.

Guess which valve broke.

Now I don't skimp when doing repairs.  If one headlight burns out I know the other won't be far behind so I'll replace both.  That is your hint on which valve broke.  Learned from experience.

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1 hour ago, XV1100SE said:

Let me relate an actual story ....

My first bike was a Kawasaki KZ305 (cruiser).  Don't remember why (probably leaking gaskets) but I rebuilt the motor.  Took the valves in to a shop to get them lapped and was told 3 needed to be replaced but the 4th was fine.

Rode the bike for about 2 months....was running better than when I got it.  On my way to work one day the motor started spinning up and I lost power.  One of the valves broke and bounced around inside the cylinder.  Ended up having to buy (after finding one) a new motor.

Guess which valve broke.

Now I don't skimp when doing repairs.  If one headlight burns out I know the other won't be far behind so I'll replace both.  That is your hint on which valve broke.  Learned from experience.

 Even if you had put a new valve in it may still have broke because Valves do not usually break on their own. there is usually  an underlying cause. improperly seated keeper coming out, broken spring, if adjustable rockers the Jam  nut could have come loose, foreign object causing the valve to bend poor lubrication cause a partial seizure which could result in piston / valve collision, or over revving the engine. Just say,n   :confused24:

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