Snags....

[ddoggma]

My starter clutch and waterpump rebuild worked, but i put the side cover on without the shifter thru the hole. Took it off and re did it . BUt i think i twisted the shifter linkage up. Wont shift seems to be binding. So I'll have to take cover off again to get it moving right. When i started it up the oil light stayed on, so i took off the filter and turned it over and it was pumping oil out the little hole where the oil filter goes, put my thumb on it and it seemed to have good pressure. So im wondering if my oil sensors messed up or i have a clog some wheres. No clacking or chain noise and i ran it a while idling and also the water temp gauge does not come up much now im hoping that's because of the pump rebuild. If you guys have some tips and or insights let me know. The good news is no water in the oil now and she started right up after sitting a while too. so im making progress. Thanks.

[luvmy40]

The oil warning light is level indicator, not a pressure indicator.

[Marcarl]

The knuckle behind the stator cover goes in the up position or it will shift backwards and it can also crack the cover.

[ddoggma]

Thanks guys, just the stuff i need to know. Update: lights out now. Waiting on new gaskets to do the shifter fix. Im pretty excited. have not rode in a year. Too long my friends, but i took it as a sign when the starter and waterpump went at the same time. Decided to just sit out last year and take my time fixing her. Now Im ready to get back in the saddle....lol

Edited August 14, 2020 by ddoggma
update

[ddoggma]

Im back in the wind! Bikes running good. Still cant get the temp gauge to work.

[luvmy40]

Im back in the wind! Bikes running good. Still cant get the temp gauge to work.

 

Clean and tighten the electrical connections at the sending unit.

[ddoggma]

I cleaned it up crimped it a couple times now. No luck. Fan comes on and off, doesn;t seem to be running real hot. But I'll keep at it till I get my temp gauge back. When I turn the key to ON the needle goes up slightly then sits back down.....

[ddoggma]

I checked my bypass valve today. Its in the wrong position. I must have turned it when i drained the system. I think tomorrow when i fix it Ill have my temp gauge back?

[ddoggma]

OK I snapped the screw off...It looked like it was turning before it broke. Valve nut wont spin.. Questions will ensue.....

[Prairiehammer]

OK I snapped the screw off...It looked like it was turning before it broke. Valve nut wont spin.. Questions will ensue.....

 

The screw is just to hold the valve within the valve body. One does not have to loosen or remove the screw to rotate the drain cock.

If the plastic valve core will not turn it is because the detent ball and spring have rusted solid enough (no spring in the spring) to resist when you try to rotate the valve core. When you rotate the valve core the detent ball is released from one of the detent holes and engages the other detent hole. Spray penetrating oil into the hole at 12 o'clock and at 6 o'clock on the valve body. And push in on the detent ball through the detent hole. Work it.

[ddoggma]

I got it to turn about halfway where it needs to go, before i chewed the nut up so bad i cant get a good bite any more. Gonna look on ebay for a used whatever they call this piece. Looks like rebuilding a used one and just swaping out the whole tube, is a easy way to go. I hit the waterpump with a temp gun and she was sitting at 165f or so. So at least things arent way out of control.

[ddoggma]

I replaced the rad cap with the auto zone one. Made a big difference. shes way happier.

[ddoggma]

So i felt the bike was in good enough working order to to a speed test. I heard they will only do about 85mph if running on three cylinders, at 105 and rising i backed off. I pretty sure 115/120 was doable, not going there lol. Also I found my slow leak on my back tire. It was the valve guts. tightened it up and no more leak. Its so simple sometimes.