Stuck float again

[jryan]

My 2006 RSV with 67k miles recently had a stuck float & fuel streaming out one of the vent hoses. None of the easy stuff worked to fix it so I removed carbs & cleaned myself (didn't really find anything) and after reinstalling it ran great again & no longer leaked. I was happy...

 

Have put 600 miles on since with no issues...until yesterday. 250 miles into a 350 mile ride, I noticed it was leaking when we stopped for lunch & it idled for a bit. It's coming from RIGHT side carbs again...same as before. Tried rapping on float bowls, drained bowls, ran it turning petcock on/off until it died, laced with Seafoam & rode it like I stole it...still leaking again. Needless to say I'm kinda pissed!

 

So I'm thinking it's time to take into shop & have carbs rebuilt. Are there different levels of rebuilding them, or with 67k miles should I just have everything rebuilt? And what all does that entail?

 

I've never had any issues with engine on this bike (except the whine!), and now same thing has happened on 2 long trips...and I was going to go on another run to Black Hills at month end. This sucks!

[grubsie]

Your best option if you are looking for outside help is to contact Mike Eyekamp who is a member here and also is the Diamond Cut Guy that you see advertising here.

He has a carb swap program that is awesome. He sends you fully rebuilt carb set and you send him yours for a very reasonable price.

[sldunker]

I had a similar problem on my 2007 RSV. Had to remove carbs twice and never found anything. I did spend a lot of time inspecting needle and seat and also readjusted floats using Vgoose's method and never had another problem. Vgoose float adjustment should be in the tech library. I also changed the routing on the vent lines as I found a spot where I thought they might be pinched a little.

[Phrog]

If you ever run into the starter not turning over the engine, remove plugs (I hear the right rear is a normal culprit) and then hit the starter to clear the cylinder.

 

I had a similar problem as you. Previous owner (my dad), said he found a puddle under the bike and started using the fuel shutoff petcock after that. I was not aware of this when he gave the bike to me. Unfortunately I was not as lucky, Instead of leaking out, it filled up one of the cylinders. I believe this caused me to bend something (rod maybe) and led to replacing the engine. Yes, I just kept hitting the starter even though it wasn't turning over the engine... Who knew fuel doesn't compress like air does?

 

Since I had the engine out, I too tried to find something wrong with the carbs, but found nothing. Just cleaned them as best I could. But as a precaution, I now always use the fuel shutoff. And IF I ever run into the starter not being able to turn the engine over, I'll remove plugs before hitting the starter again.

[CaseyJ955]

My 2006 RSV with 67k miles recently had a stuck float & fuel streaming out one of the vent hoses. None of the easy stuff worked to fix it so I removed carbs & cleaned myself (didn't really find anything) and after reinstalling it ran great again & no longer leaked. I was happy...

 

Have put 600 miles on since with no issues...until yesterday. 250 miles into a 350 mile ride, I noticed it was leaking when we stopped for lunch & it idled for a bit. It's coming from RIGHT side carbs again...same as before. Tried rapping on float bowls, drained bowls, ran it turning petcock on/off until it died, laced with Seafoam & rode it like I stole it...still leaking again. Needless to say I'm kinda pissed!

 

So I'm thinking it's time to take into shop & have carbs rebuilt. Are there different levels of rebuilding them, or with 67k miles should I just have everything rebuilt? And what all does that entail?

 

I've never had any issues with engine on this bike (except the whine!), and now same thing has happened on 2 long trips...and I was going to go on another run to Black Hills at month end. This sucks!

 

If your looking at coming at months end then you obviously identified the best times to hit the hills. If you do end up this way hit me up, I live here in the hills and I'd be happy to join you for some hills riding. Also if your camping I have wooded private space here west of Rapid. There may still be isolated gaggles of HDs lumbering around but by months end there will be plenty of space just slip past them. Weekend can still be a little congested in the hills but weekdays are spectacular.

 

I hope you get the carbs sorted, if you pull the vent tubes and turn on the key for a moment you should see the offending carb. Also make sure all those vents are clean and clear with no kinks. Worst case maybe just slide the rack out and drop the one bowl. Good news is that the second time removing a carb rack goes a lot faster than the first time. Good luck with the fix. You have my #.

[jryan]

I hope you get the carbs sorted, if you pull the vent tubes and turn on the key for a moment you should see the offending carb. Also make sure all those vents are clean and clear with no kinks. Worst case maybe just slide the rack out and drop the one bowl. Good news is that the second time removing a carb rack goes a lot faster than the first time. Good luck with the fix. You have my #.

 

Don't I have to pull carbs off & separate them to be able to pull off the T from each carb going to vent hose? or can I do it without going that far?

[CaseyJ955]

Don't I have to pull carbs off & separate them to be able to pull off the T from each carb going to vent hose? or can I do it without going that far?

 

My experience lies mostly in Gen1, but for gen2 I'm about 98.34% positive the vent tubes are the same as the carbs are basically the same. Vent tubes should be larger diameter, soft, and fairly easy-ish pull from the tops of the carbs, no need to remove or split the racks. Fuel lines maybe but for the overflow lines, those should be workable with no further disassembly.

 

The Gen2 I saw in person was visually indistinguishable from Gen1 or Vmax with regards to carb setup/fuel system. If they are stiff or brittle that might be a problem, but even after 32 years, the gen1 are still soft and pliable.

 

I had my Gen1 VMX running fuel out onto the ground like that before, wanted to know which one before I pulled the rack and this is how I quickly got that info. Luckily once I had the correct carb and took a chance on draining and a bit more tapping, and it worked.

 

Any Gen2 folks here confirm/deny any changes in the overflow tubing between G1 and G2?

 

I dont want to mislead, I'm trying to confirm now.

 

Edit. Cant find to many good pics, but by one or two maybe the plumbing is different for the overflows.

Edited August 10, 2020 by CaseyJ955

[jryan]

Your best option if you are looking for outside help is to contact Mike Eyekamp who is a member here and also is the Diamond Cut Guy that you see advertising here.

He has a carb swap program that is awesome. He sends you fully rebuilt carb set and you send him yours for a very reasonable price.

 

I did just that. Got the new ones from Mike & installed today...they work great. Will be sending back mine to him Monday. Thanks for pointing me his direction!

[grubsie]

I did just that. Got the new ones from Mike & installed today...they work great. Will be sending back mine to him Monday. Thanks for pointing me his direction!

 

Good news. Here's to many more miles with smiles.