ken5124 Posted July 21, 2020 #1 Posted July 21, 2020 Morning.. Does anyone have a error free Class controller assembly they would sell ? I have re-soldered but no luck.. e 1 all the time. Let me know ! Ken
Pasta Burner Posted July 21, 2020 #2 Posted July 21, 2020 Morning.. Does anyone have a error free Class controller assembly they would sell ? I have re-soldered but no luck.. e 1 all the time. Let me know ! Ken did you flow all of the joints or just the ones you thought to be suspect? Also check to see if any joints are bridged. I don’t have an extra for you, but I wouldn’t mind getting my hands on some of these broken ones.
luvmy40 Posted July 21, 2020 #3 Posted July 21, 2020 I've got two that need re soldered. I'm just too darned lazy to do it! I can usually putz with the one installed right now and get it to work long enough to set or check the pressures.
ken5124 Posted July 22, 2020 Author #4 Posted July 22, 2020 Thanks.. It seems when i move the wiring around at the wiring harness, I can get it to fire up and set the pressures.. not sure if it's the pressure on the pins, contact at the pins or a wiring issue... Ken
Pasta Burner Posted July 22, 2020 #5 Posted July 22, 2020 Thanks.. It seems when i move the wiring around at the wiring harness, I can get it to fire up and set the pressures.. not sure if it's the pressure on the pins, contact at the pins or a wiring issue... Ken Might be a silly question, but did you clean the connectors? Scrub out any corrosion and put a little dielectric grease on there. Do the grease after it starts working consistently, it’s cleaner that way.
ken5124 Posted July 22, 2020 Author #6 Posted July 22, 2020 Thanks... I did not notice any corrosion, but I will do that today.. then apply some dielectric grease. ken
videoarizona Posted July 22, 2020 #7 Posted July 22, 2020 If you can move the harness and get the system to work, either you need to re-solder the pins to the controller board and make sure the solder flows to make a nice shiny new connection....or....you have a broken wire/loose pin in the connector. Both problems are easy to fix, but hard to see. If I may: Suggest you try again. Use a magnifier to look closely at the connections. Seriously, these bikes are easy to repair....
ken5124 Posted July 22, 2020 Author #8 Posted July 22, 2020 Thanks... will work on it again this weekend. ken
videoarizona Posted July 24, 2020 #9 Posted July 24, 2020 Throw an Ohm meter on the connector pins using the ground/common pin as your base. Wiggle the wires. If one of them fluctuates, you've found your problem on the connector. Funny thing, with all the open/closing I've done on getting to the overflow tank...I've never had a connector issue, rather a bad solder joint on the board. So I must assume the board is the weak point. Which makes sense. The connector isn't really supported by anything but the board. At least on my scoot. But once soldered with nice gobs of solder, she's been tight now for 4 years. Last thought, check the connector pins to make sure they are not dirty.
ken5124 Posted August 2, 2020 Author #10 Posted August 2, 2020 I bit the bullet and found and bought a new oem circuit board.. all issues with errors solved,. I definitely can not solder.
Pasta Burner Posted August 3, 2020 #11 Posted August 3, 2020 I bit the bullet and found and bought a new oem circuit board.. all issues with errors solved,. I definitely can not solder. I’ll take your old one if you wanna offload it. Did you buy the whole module or just a board?
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