Oil overfill on my 2018 Star Venture TC

[DesertLawman]

Any suggestions on how to remove some oil out of the tank? I overfilled it just a bit after finding it very low when the dealer changed out my break-in oil. I live in the desert and am using yamalube 20-50 to help with heat. My wife suggested using a spray bottle top but I think the oil might be too thick to pump out that way. Maybe a turkey baster would work.

 

Anyone ever had this situation and found a fix?

[RonK]

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Baster would work. Other option would be to have a clean pan under the drain hole; open the drain hole for a moment; put plug back in. If too much comes out, since it's clean, just put some back in tank.

 

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[Flyinfool]

Messy option is to pull the drain plug and let a bit out then stick the plug back in quick before too much comes out.

 

If it is a small amount that needs to be removed, an old turkey baster will work, Not your wife's favorite one..........

[cowpuc]

Any suggestions on how to remove some oil out of the tank? I overfilled it just a bit after finding it very low when the dealer changed out my break-in oil. I live in the desert and am using yamalube 20-50 to help with heat. My wife suggested using a spray bottle top but I think the oil might be too thick to pump out that way. Maybe a turkey baster would work.

 

Anyone ever had this situation and found a fix?

 

Go to 5:10 and start there in this vid to see the horse/ag syringe that I would deploy to do the job Lawman.. I have used them for cleaning carbs thru the drains a lot but use to use them a lot for setting fork oil on my dirt bikes back when I was racing and have also used them for doing exactly what you are talking about,, overfill and/or topping off to perfecting everything from crankcase oil to tranny/rear end fluids (takes a lot of time with 90w), radiators and hydraulics too.. Get the big ones that take the big needles so you can use small clear fuel line (usually available at the same ag store but if not, check your local small engine shop) slid over the nipple that the needle screws onto.. Get 10 feet of line (I use to buy it in multiple sizes by the 100ft spool for my dealership) or so, cut it long enough to be able to thread in into the tank as you either suck on the end of the hose lightly (my method) till you feel the oil resisting the air flow thru the tube or hook it onto the syringe and pull a vacuum in the tube as you feed the line in,, when you get resistance just start pulling on the plunger until you get the amount out you need.. Works for me,, try it,, its cheap and it may work for you too..

Puc

[sldunker]

If it were mine I and I only had to remove a little I would remove the oil filter and dump the contents of the filter and reinstall. I would do this as many times as it takes with running bike between draining the filter. Remember when you check the oil on this bike the oil has to be hot, like after a 30 minute drive.

[BlueSky]

I think a hand held mity-vac would be a good tool choice to remove the excess oil. I bought one a while back and I use it to remove the brake fluid from the reservoir when I flush the brakes. It has been very handy in bleeding the brakes too on my autos and bikes. I luvvs that tool!

[cowpuc]

If it were mine I and I only had to remove a little I would remove the oil filter and dump the contents of the filter and reinstall. I would do this as many times as it takes with running bike between draining the filter. Remember when you check the oil on this bike the oil has to be hot, like after a 30 minute drive.

 

Dunk with the issue's that a few have had concerning lifter/cam failure on the new one and the thought being by some that it is due to momentary lack of lubrication,, is there any concern on your part of momentary lube loss by running an empty filter momentarily.. I have no clue whether or not the filter sits horizonally on the new one but if it did and I had one,, I think I would fill the filter prior to screwing it on just to prevent an air gap in the oil system.. Just thinking out loud brother..

[sldunker]

Puc, you make a valid point. No where can I find where Yamaha recommends preoiling the filter. They may do it on a brand new engine but I don't see it mentioned when doing an oil change. The filter does sit horizontal on this engine and the oil is picked up by the pump in the pumps own chamber. The pump is always in oil even when doing an oil change. On an oil drain there is still 1 qt of oil left in the engine and I suspect it is in the oil chamber. This should allow almost instant lubrication when the pump builds pressure in the system.

When doing an oil change the new filter is installed dry as it is on most car engines with the same horizontal type filter. I would have to believe that the engineers that design these oiling system have figured out a way to protect the engine on startup.

Removing the filter and dumping it still leaves some oil in the filter. There is still oil in the crankcase and the oil tank and the rest of the system. I just don't believe that this would be detrimental to the oil system or the engine components.

Let me know what you think.

[cowpuc]

Puc, you make a valid point. No where can I find where Yamaha recommends preoiling the filter. They may do it on a brand new engine but I don't see it mentioned when doing an oil change. The filter does sit horizontal on this engine and the oil is picked up by the pump in the pumps own chamber. The pump is always in oil even when doing an oil change. On an oil drain there is still 1 qt of oil left in the engine and I suspect it is in the oil chamber. This should allow almost instant lubrication when the pump builds pressure in the system.

When doing an oil change the new filter is installed dry as it is on most car engines with the same horizontal type filter. I would have to believe that the engineers that design these oiling system have figured out a way to protect the engine on startup.

Removing the filter and dumping it still leaves some oil in the filter. There is still oil in the crankcase and the oil tank and the rest of the system. I just don't believe that this would be detrimental to the oil system or the engine components.

Let me know what you think.

@sldunker,, Dunk,, sorry I missed this so late response.. Keep in mind this is another IMHO deals so consider the source ..

 

I mistyped Horizontal when I meant vertical,, actually - trying to keep oil inside a horizontal filter while screwing it on would be a fools errand.. When ever I have a vertical mount oil filter that I am replacing I always fill the new one with fresh oil before remounting in an effort to mitigate any galling potential that may occur from momentary lube loss.. I never ever really cared for that momentary "oil light" on condition or "0" oil pressure noted on a gauge at an oil swap.. One of the reasons for this has to do with a discovery I made many many years ago while spinning wrenches at a Honda dealership. I was doing most of their small, kids bike, repairs.. I noticed an influx of cam issues coming in resulting in head/cam replacements.. Hondas later cure for what I,, and obviously others, were noticing was to place a small bolt directly above the spark plug area into the oil gallery of the head.. The instructions clearly written in the later year small bikes manuals were to, when changing oil or upon a tip over where an air pocket in the oil pump system could result to remove the small bolt and roll the engine over with the kick starter until oil began to drain from the oil hole so air in the system did not cause a momentary oil loss resulting in galling of betharing services.. Many many people did not read their owners manuals though (IMHO) as later in life, in my own dealership,, we continued to have an occasional galled bearing head/cam show up and when asked, the owners always responded with - "well thats stupid - I never heard of such a thing" in response to being asked if they knew about the oil change process..

I am also aware of and have seen pics of the new air cooled motors cam/lifter wear and,, going all the way back to the release/demo's of bikes at Sturgis I had inquired about the choice of using non-roller lifters in the new design.. I spoke with the factory guys at sturgis about this as I had noticed this in the cutaway engine they had on display.. Having been somewhat familiar with HD's discovery of protecting their engines from the issues that many SVTC/Eluder owners are facing concerning valve train issues via utilizing roller lifters where contacting the cam face, I asked the factory guys if the designers had found it unneccessary to use rollers on those surfaces and if they were providing oil system air release/priming bolts like Honda had done with those little bikes of yesteryear.. They looked at me like I was nuts (I get that a lot) and replied "with todays oils and modern machining methods, the non-roller lifters will do fine".. Seeing the result of this though makes me go right back to my experiences of the past and, if I were an owner of one of the new Ventures,, I would mitigate the probabilities of have an issue of the type I am speaking of simply by only putting my bikes engine thru a temporary/momentary oil pressure loss one time per oil change cause I know what can/will likely result from even the smallest smudging of a bearing area..

[Flyinfool]

sldunker,, Dunk,, sorry I missed this so late response.. Keep in mind this is another IMHO deals so consider the source ..

 

I mistyped Horizontal when I meant vertical,, actually - trying to keep oil inside a horizontal filter while screwing it on would be a fools errand.. ...........

 

Funny you should state it like that, If you hang the bike from a hoist you can make the horizontal filter into a vertical filter so that you can prefill it.........

[sldunker]

Ah, Fool figured out our problem for preoiling the filter.

 

Yamaha has had some lifter-cam issues on this engine. We don't know the exact number of them and we really don't know why they failed. I don't think it was due to lack of lubrication at startup, I think it was some poorly made parts. I have over 18,000 miles on mine now and it runs better now than it did when new. Long Haul Paul had over 100,000 miles of his Star Venture when he sold it and had zero problems. We could speculate on this all day but time will tell.

I guess we will just have to keep on riding and enjoy it while we still can.

[N3FOL]

I think I've read the manual more than enough and I am ready to do my first oil change on the SVTC. Rode to work today and now I am 50 miles over 4K miles. I am looking forward this Sunday and I don't want to overfill the bike with oil. It seems to be very straightforward.

[sldunker]

Follow the manual and you will be fine.

[N3FOL]

...so I was able to change the oil on the SVTC. It took me longer than expected, but I was able to get it done with no hiccups. At 4046 miles, the old oil sure did look pretty dirty and it was time. I managed to find an old gray pan in the garage that is low enough to place under the bike to collect oil. I’m good for another 4K miles. Also, I was able to use a Toyota filter remover on the SVTC and this made it easy to remove the oil filter. 2 qts in the crankcase and 3.2 qts in the oil pan as instructed. Here are some photo ops. Ride safe.

 

 

 

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[sldunker]

If all I am doing to the bike is an oil change, I will back up the rear tire on a 2x4. Have another 2x4 handy to slip under side stand. 1 1/2 inches higher makes a word of difference.

Remember when you check the oil, the oil has to be hot to get the correct reading. I check mine after a good long ride.

[N3FOL]

With the SVTC, we don’t have to worry about coolant change. I am thankful for that. Oil, tires and brakes are the major ones to do regularly and as needed. Plugs, I think I can also handle that. The next thing I have to learn down the road is the belt adjustment once I replace my rear tire someday.

 

 

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[ChiefGunner]

On 8/31/2020 at 6:48 PM, N3FOL said:

...so I was able to change the oil on the SVTC. It took me longer than expected, but I was able to get it done with no hiccups. At 4046 miles, the old oil sure did look pretty dirty and it was time. I managed to find an old gray pan in the garage that is low enough to place under the bike to collect oil. I’m good for another 4K miles. Also, I was able to use a Toyota filter remover on the SVTC and this made it easy to remove the oil filter. 2 qts in the crankcase and 3.2 qts in the oil pan as instructed. Here are some photo ops. Ride safe.

 

 

 

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Hey @N3FOLI noticed you said you added 2qts to the crankcase. The manual states that with filter change to add 2.4qts to the crankcase and 3.2qts to the oil tank.  If you only added 2qts you’re actually running low in the CC. The system is not “self leveling”. The scavenger pump flows at a rate to keep the CC at the level that was put in there.  In other words, if you start out low, you stay low. That’s why it’s important to fill correctly and one of the reasons it says not to overfill it either.

Just thought I needed to share that, although everything I said is in the maintenance manual.

[ecbaatz]

17 hours ago, ChiefGunner said:

Hey @N3FOLI noticed you said you added 2qts to the crankcase. The manual states that with filter change to add 2.4qts to the crankcase and 3.2qts to the oil tank.  If you only added 2qts you’re actually running low in the CC. The system is not “self leveling”. The scavenger pump flows at a rate to keep the CC at the level that was put in there.  In other words, if you start out low, you stay low. That’s why it’s important to fill correctly and one of the reasons it says not to overfill it either.

Just thought I needed to share that, although everything I said is in the maintenance manual.

Just what I was going to say. Here is the page from the service manual. He is .4 qts low on yer engine.

[ChiefGunner]

9 hours ago, ecbaatz said:

Just what I was going to say. Here is the page from the service manual. He is .4 qts low on yer engine.

Yes Eric @ecbaatz    Many are under a false assumption that the oil will “level itself out” to what is needed in the crankcase and that is NOT the case. The scavenger pump cycles the oil but  the flow rate just keeps it at the level you filled it to. You can’t overfill the tank and under full the crankcase and think it’ll be ok. It won’t.

[N3FOL]

On 10/16/2020 at 5:52 PM, ChiefGunner said:

Hey @N3FOLI noticed you said you added 2qts to the crankcase. The manual states that with filter change to add 2.4qts to the crankcase and 3.2qts to the oil tank.  If you only added 2qts you’re actually running low in the CC. The system is not “self leveling”. The scavenger pump flows at a rate to keep the CC at the level that was put in there.  In other words, if you start out low, you stay low. That’s why it’s important to fill correctly and one of the reasons it says not to overfill it either.

Just thought I needed to share that, although everything I said is in the maintenance manual.

You are right.  This is the first time I noticed this.  The owner's  manual on page 9-15 states 3.2 qts in the engine and 2 qts in the crankcase with no mention if the oil filter is replaced....there has to be 2.4 qts instead of just 2 qts.  The engine is the same.  I have the bike with me here at work and I will ad 0.4 qts of oil to the crankcase as soon as I get back home.  I hope I didn't do any damage being 0.4 qts lower in the crankcase.  Thank You very much for the heads up.  

[N3FOL]

On 10/17/2020 at 11:38 AM, ecbaatz said:

Just what I was going to say. Here is the page from the service manual. He is .4 qts low on yer engine.

Thank you for posting this page.  I am truly 0.4 qts low.  I'll add oil as soon as I get home.  

[ChiefGunner]

6 hours ago, N3FOL said:

You are right.  This is the first time I noticed this.  The owner's  manual on page 9-15 states 3.2 qts in the engine and 2 qts in the crankcase with no mention if the oil filter is replaced....there has to be 2.4 qts instead of just 2 qts.  The engine is the same.  I have the bike with me here at work and I will ad 0.4 qts of oil to the crankcase as soon as I get back home.  I hope I didn't do any damage being 0.4 qts lower in the crankcase.  Thank You very much for the heads up.  

Glad you visited and saw this. I was worried about you running around low oil!

[N3FOL]

Now at apx 8200 miles and replaced the Oil and Oil Filter on the bike.  It took longer than expected even though this is the 2nd time I am doing the oil change, because I struggled to remove that very tight oil filter.  I had to run over to our local Home Depot store and picked up a nice Channel Lock plyers specifically designed to grab and hold on to small PVC pipes and small oil filters.  Wow, I was so relieved after I started to spin to remove.  Pic below is the new filter installed. 

I also got the chance to replace the spark plugs the same day and I really thought I have to remove the fuel tank all the way.  Glad I didn't have to.  I simply removed the left plastic cover that I thought housed the left air filter and as soon as that was off...those 2 plugs were just starring right at me.  It took me about 30 minutes to replace both plugs and I was done.   Now the bike is good for another 4K miles until the next oil change.  IMO, at 8200 miles, my plugs needed to be replaced.  More pics attached...

 

 

[Marcarl]

Plugs look good to me, but then I'm not the right expert maybe.

[N3FOL]

@Marcarl True.  I think the plugs are still ok and the bike ran very nice before the change.  I could have left it there, but I bought 10 of those plugs a year ago for a little over $2.00 each.

I find it easier to change the oil and filter on my ‘07 RSV than replace all 4 plugs.  On the SVTC, it is easier to change the plugs than change the oil.  😀