larrydr Posted June 22, 2020 #1 Posted June 22, 2020 I noticed some strange handling problems ...I will be replacing the steering head bearings and the fork seals next week .. Then I need to head to the shop and have a safety inspection done ...I found out that in Manitoba , Canada ...the mechanic has to spend time and check for the smallest changes anyone has done to the bike and at that point the bike will be reported to the M.P.I insurance and the will be taken of the road and sent to the scrap yard . In Manitoba M.P.I insurance is standing there at ready with a big stick and you don't do anything to make the bike fit your size . ( no lowering kits allowed )
zagger Posted June 22, 2020 #2 Posted June 22, 2020 Geesh. Gotta love Canada and the ruling elite. They are just so gosh darn smart. zag
saddlebum Posted June 22, 2020 #3 Posted June 22, 2020 So I would guess no delinking of the brakes either then. That sucks because I like many others feel linked brakes are dangerous on loose road surfaces including gravel or sand covered hard surfaces.
cowpuc Posted June 22, 2020 #4 Posted June 22, 2020 I noticed some strange handling problems ...I will be replacing the steering head bearings and the fork seals next week .. Then I need to head to the shop and have a safety inspection done ...I found out that in Manitoba , Canada ...the mechanic has to spend time and check for the smallest changes anyone has done to the bike and at that point the bike will be reported to the M.P.I insurance and the will be taken of the road and sent to the scrap yard . In Manitoba M.P.I insurance is standing there at ready with a big stick and you don't do anything to make the bike fit your size . ( no lowering kits allowed ) Larry, I am not sure whether you are asking opinions here or just letting us know what your facing but thought I would add this just in case someone else reads this and is facing similar odds.. Having been riding the MK1's for a few years now,, starting back in 87,, I can honestly say that I never met a MK1 that came from the mom yam factory with anything other than Ink Pen springs for fork springs.. There seemed to be a following few of the MK1's years ago that traveled the philosophy that one could over come the collapsing/sacking of those Ink Pen springs by adding air to the front forks,, this,, IMHO,, turned out to be a myth.. Fact is,, those front forks need good springs to support the weight of the bike.. As the springs collapse/sack out over time (the bike doesnt even have to be ridden for this to happen) they allow the fork to drop in its static position which increases pressure at the seals as fluid is forced against them.. This, along with worn bushings top and bottom inside the bottom leg allowing the top tube to move side ways slightly, is the number one cause of leaky seals AND also creates some really strange wobbly, erratic, unstable, wandering feelings at slow speeds/high speeds and in the twisties.. Especially on a bike like the MK1's whose sectional, tubular frame is already inadequate for high speed fun.. That said,, if I were taking my MK1 down to the neck to redo bearings and also replacing seals in the process I would DEFINITELY replace the bushings in the forks, install Progressive springs, new OEM seals, make sure the upper tubes are not nicked/worn, drop in 12 weight Bel-Ray fork oil to 3 1/2 inches with forks bottomed and springs installed and bring my preload to 3/4 to 1 inch.. Then run 0 air pressure.. Then,, if a Kanuckian mechanic does check out my 1st Gen,, he/she would probably say WOWZY WOW WOW WOW,, you should build bikes for all new bike OEM factories cause I aint never rode a bike that handles as well as this canyon carving machine!! All IMHO of course.. Sorry for the if thats what I just did Puc
Condor Posted June 23, 2020 #5 Posted June 23, 2020 Gotta agree with Puc... On my first '83 I added the progressives, '86 front forks, R1 calipers, and the fork brace. Talk about carving the canyons... The best handling scoot I've ever owned... Wish I'd never sold 'er.....
larrydr Posted June 27, 2020 Author #6 Posted June 27, 2020 Larry, I am not sure whether you are asking opinions here or just letting us know what your facing but thought I would add this just in case someone else reads this and is facing similar odds.. Having been riding the MK1's for a few years now,, starting back in 87,, I can honestly say that I never met a MK1 that came from the mom yam factory with anything other than Ink Pen springs for fork springs.. There seemed to be a following few of the MK1's years ago that traveled the philosophy that one could over come the collapsing/sacking of those Ink Pen springs by adding air to the front forks,, this,, IMHO,, turned out to be a myth.. Fact is,, those front forks need good springs to support the weight of the bike.. As the springs collapse/sack out over time (the bike doesnt even have to be ridden for this to happen) they allow the fork to drop in its static position which increases pressure at the seals as fluid is forced against them.. This, along with worn bushings top and bottom inside the bottom leg allowing the top tube to move side ways slightly, is the number one cause of leaky seals AND also creates some really strange wobbly, erratic, unstable, wandering feelings at slow speeds/high speeds and in the twisties.. Especially on a bike like the MK1's whose sectional, tubular frame is already inadequate for high speed fun.. That said,, if I were taking my MK1 down to the neck to redo bearings and also replacing seals in the process I would DEFINITELY replace the bushings in the forks, install Progressive springs, new OEM seals, make sure the upper tubes are not nicked/worn, drop in 12 weight Bel-Ray fork oil to 3 1/2 inches with forks bottomed and springs installed and bring my preload to 3/4 to 1 inch.. Then run 0 air pressure.. Then,, if a Kanuckian mechanic does check out my 1st Gen,, he/she would probably say WOWZY WOW WOW WOW,, you should build bikes for all new bike OEM factories cause I aint never rode a bike that handles as well as this canyon carving machine!! All IMHO of course.. Sorry for the if thats what I just did Puc I pulled the forks and found that the one leg was sticking .. I know that I will have to re do both legs anyway , along with bearing in the steering head ..I also have a noise in my transmission in neutral ...Which goes away the transmission goes into gear .. Another local guy here has a VMAX with the same problem , and after 6 months of a parts back order ...I see no point in ordering any new parts as not now , before all this COVID stuff clears up
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now