Before I go any further...advice on pulling wheels.

[Pasta Burner]

One day a few weeks ago I was just feeling anxious on a ride and many things went through my head that day including tire age. So I decided to look at the actual date code of my tires rather than just checking the tread. Glad I did as they’re obviously pre y2k with only a three digit code. (Dunlop elite 2). I bought the harbor freight motorcycle jack as it’s on sale till the end of the month for $80. Jacked it up last night and pulled the front wheel with minimal issue. Went to pull the rear and now I have to backtrack. (Found a vid on YouTube showing how to remove the rear and that was helpful). But unfortunately my jack placement is completely preventing me from accessing the clamp holding the tailpipe on, so now I have to reinstall the front wheel and lower the bike, remove the exhaust clamp then jack it back up and continue. Anything else I should be looking for before I get ahead of myself again going forward?

[cimmer]

Well with the exhaust off on both sides, I would be servicing the rear suspension, rear gear assemble, and grease all the wheel bearings. Good chance none of that has been done in a while if the tires are that old. With the bike high enough the rear wheel should be able to dropped down and worked out without removal of the side bags and frame and rear fender.

 

Good luck..

Rick F.

[SpencerPJ]

Pay very close attention to the washer placement. It's easy to not reassemble correctly and get the brake caliber off line. take some pics.

[Pasta Burner]

Pay very close attention to the washer placement. It's easy to not reassemble correctly and get the brake caliber off line. take some pics.

You mean on the rear?

 

the front came down relatively easy just a little issue finegaling the dust guards that the PO had installed led lighting on, I think that accent is a goner now. I don’t recall any washers on the front.

[Pasta Burner]

Well with the exhaust off on both sides, I would be servicing the rear suspension, rear gear assemble, and grease all the wheel bearings. Good chance none of that has been done in a while if the tires are that old. With the bike high enough the rear wheel should be able to dropped down and worked out without removal of the side bags and frame and rear fender.

 

Good luck..

Rick F.

 

what do you mean when you say servicing? Like changing the drive gear oil? Greasing the gears? I looked in the manual both service and owners and in the table of contents rear suspension maintenance and swing arm lubrication are mentioned, but I can’t for the life of me find it in the body of the text. Any advice on how to service the suspension? Are there grease zerks to look for?

 

thanks for the replies.

[cimmer]

For the final drive gear oil change and inspection, refer to service manual page 2-27. For the rear suspension refer to page 6-48 to 6-55. You might find grease zerks installed by a previous owner but they didnt come install from Yamaha till 1990 models I believe. You can add them to it and it is a good idea and easy way to lube the pivot points on the A-arms but does require you to basically take apart the rear suspension to do it. refer to this for information.. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1057-Frame-Fork-and-Wheel-Tips

 

One thing to beware of in the service manual is that the 88-93 bikes have a different A-arm setup and how the pieces look compared to the 83-87 ones. Also the shock mounts differently on the 88-93 bikes. The service manual shows pictures of the 83-87 bikes and not the 88-93 bikes.

 

Another thing is that you dont need to worry about is lubing the 88-93 drive shaft where it enters the final gear drive as the lube oil from the final drive takes care of that. The 83-87 need to remove their drive shafts to lube the gear on the end of theirs.

 

With the wheel out of the gear drive, there is an gear on the wheel that messes with the gear drive, page 6-10 has a picture. On the wheel is a gear held onto the shaft by a c-clip, remove it and pull the assemble out and grease the fingers that go into the wheel.. refer to the above link and rear wheel service portion of that post.

 

I hope that helps but if not ask more and we will see if we can get you thru this.. Sounds hard but isnt really that bad to do and makes a big difference in the ride of the bike when finished.

 

Good Luck

 

Rick F.

[Pasta Burner]

Only took about a half hour to put the front wheel back on, lower and get the exhaust off then get both wheels removed. Much easier to have the jack and not have to disassemble the whole back end. Thanks for noting to do the services while I have the opportunity should only take three beers time to complete.

[Pasta Burner]

For the final drive gear oil change and inspection, refer to service manual page 2-27. For the rear suspension refer to page 6-48 to 6-55. You might find grease zerks installed by a previous owner but they didnt come install from Yamaha till 1990 models I believe. You can add them to it and it is a good idea and easy way to lube the pivot points on the A-arms but does require you to basically take apart the rear suspension to do it. refer to this for information.. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1057-Frame-Fork-and-Wheel-Tips

 

One thing to beware of in the service manual is that the 88-93 bikes have a different A-arm setup and how the pieces look compared to the 83-87 ones. Also the shock mounts differently on the 88-93 bikes. The service manual shows pictures of the 83-87 bikes and not the 88-93 bikes.

 

Another thing is that you dont need to worry about is lubing the 88-93 drive shaft where it enters the final gear drive as the lube oil from the final drive takes care of that. The 83-87 need to remove their drive shafts to lube the gear on the end of theirs.

 

With the wheel out of the gear drive, there is an gear on the wheel that messes with the gear drive, page 6-10 has a picture. On the wheel is a gear held onto the shaft by a c-clip, remove it and pull the assemble out and grease the fingers that go into the wheel.. refer to the above link and rear wheel service portion of that post.

 

I hope that helps but if not ask more and we will see if we can get you thru this.. Sounds hard but isnt really that bad to do and makes a big difference in the ride of the bike when finished.

 

Good Luck

 

Rick F.

 

Any trick to getting the gear out of the wheel? I removed the clip but the gear isn’t budging and I don’t want to mar it up.

[cimmer]

Any trick to getting the gear out of the wheel? I removed the clip but the gear isn’t budging and I don’t want to mar it up.

 

I dont remember it being an issue on my bike.. refer to manual page 6-6 and 6-10 upper picture... once the circlip is remove the clutch hub #10 should be able to be slide out of the wheel hub and I would also remove the hub dust seal #11. If I recall correctly, the pins in the clutch hub will slide out of the dampers and these pins are what you want to clean and grease. I also clean all the old grease from the gear and reapply fresh grease. You might need to do some prying on the clutch hub if the pins are stuck in the dampers. I would be careful on how much pressure you use and it is just an aluminum hub.

I hope this helps.

 

Rick F.

[Pasta Burner]

Thanks for the reply and notes to the manual. It’s gonna be a winter project now. Cleaned and greased what I could access.

[cowpuc]

Any trick to getting the gear out of the wheel? I removed the clip but the gear isn’t budging and I don’t want to mar it up.

 

I dont remember it being an issue on my bike.. refer to manual page 6-6 and 6-10 upper picture... once the circlip is remove the clutch hub #10 should be able to be slide out of the wheel hub and I would also remove the hub dust seal #11. If I recall correctly, the pins in the clutch hub will slide out of the dampers and these pins are what you want to clean and grease. I also clean all the old grease from the gear and reapply fresh grease. You might need to do some prying on the clutch hub if the pins are stuck in the dampers. I would be careful on how much pressure you use and it is just an aluminum hub.

I hope this helps.

 

Rick F.

 

Thanks for the reply and notes to the manual. It’s gonna be a winter project now. Cleaned and greased what I could access.

 

Yep,, those rascals can be pugnacious if they haven't apart for a bit.. The pins can get rusty and stuck in the wheel and/or even the hub can corrode up a bit.. I have found a few occasions that after removing the clip sometimes a few smack with a mallet helps and maybe even some lube sprayed down the hub cant hurt.. Pasta,, here are a couple of short vids of mine that may or may not assist you.. Just knowing what it looks like once apart may help..

 

 

[Pasta Burner]

Yep,, those rascals can be pugnacious if they haven't apart for a bit.. The pins can get rusty and stuck in the wheel and/or even the hub can corrode up a bit.. I have found a few occasions that after removing the clip sometimes a few smack with a mallet helps and maybe even some lube sprayed down the hub cant hurt.. Pasta,, here are a couple of short vids of mine that may or may not assist you.. Just knowing what it looks like once apart may help..

 

 

 

WTF!?! The vid links only showed up when I hit “reply with quote”. Well now I know how to find the missing link !

 

Puc I found your YouTube channel yesterday and watched the vid you had about the spline being wore out, but didn’t see any others. Excited to watch these!

[Pasta Burner]

Ahhhh I see!! Thanks! As mentioned one of the vids you posted I saw yesterday, but missed the concept of the gear and pins as a piece. Seeing it out in the other vid makes sense. I was thinking only the center gear came out and had fingers or something in the Center hub. The rear wheel is super easy to get off and on, the front proved to be a real bear for me. If I decided to not put back the chrome dust covers I’m sure it would be easy. But getting five separate parts aligned isn’t that simple. Unless there is a trick someone knows...

[luvmy40]

Ahhhh I see!! Thanks! As mentioned one of the vids you posted I saw yesterday, but missed the concept of the gear and pins as a piece. Seeing it out in the other vid makes sense. I was thinking only the center gear came out and had fingers or something in the Center hub. The rear wheel is super easy to get off and on, the front proved to be a real bear for me. If I decided to not put back the chrome dust covers I’m sure it would be easy. But getting five separate parts aligned isn’t that simple. Unless there is a trick someone knows...

 

You have to hold your tongue in just the right position and stand on your head while your wife or son jiggles the axle around. A few choice explitives can also be useful. When all that fails to produce the desired effect, you go at it again with a beer in one hand. That usually works for me but only if I follow that exact procedure. Leave out one step and you have to start all over again.

 

 

I considered leaving the chrome rotor covers of many, many times!

[Pasta Burner]

You have to hold your tongue in just the right position and stand on your head while your wife or son jiggles the axle around. A few choice explitives can also be useful. When all that fails to produce the desired effect, you go at it again with a beer in one hand. That usually works for me but only if I follow that exact procedure. Leave out one step and you have to start all over again.

 

 

I considered leaving the chrome rotor covers of many, many times!

 

the PO put led rope light around the outsides of the rotor covers. Close up it looks hokey, but from a distance and at night it looks nice.

[cowpuc]

You have to hold your tongue in just the right position and stand on your head while your wife or son jiggles the axle around. A few choice explitives can also be useful. When all that fails to produce the desired effect, you go at it again with a beer in one hand. That usually works for me but only if I follow that exact procedure. Leave out one step and you have to start all over again.

 

 

I considered leaving the chrome rotor covers of many, many times!

 

the PO put led rope light around the outsides of the rotor covers. Close up it looks hokey, but from a distance and at night it looks nice.

 

IMHO and neither way is right or wrong but I think there is a big difference between a form over function and a function over form lop eared varmint..

Maybe,, possibly being more like my friend/brother @luvmy40,, I tend to be more of a function over form varmint.. When I picked up Tweeksis from @Carbon_One, @ragtop69gs commented to Larry asking how long Larry thought it would be before I made Tweeksis "mine" by removing all the bling and putting the stickers on her that her prior sisters had earned thru the ages.. As I recall,, Larry (who knows me well) said something like 1 week.. He was close.. When I got home I proceeded to rip Tweeksis apart, removing her carb (it was iffy) and replacing with Tweeks carbs (which would be the 3rd 1st Gen that carb bank had been on) and then on to removing her gorgeous, but totally in the way Chrome rear bumper, Chrome front spoiler, Chrome front rotor covers, fancy seat (nothing in the world like a bone stock, OEM 1st Gen seat) and a bunch of other always in the way at the wrong time bling.. IMHO,, when Murph strikes with a flat tire in the middle of the Mojave desert and its 110 degrees the last thing I want to do is turn a 20 minute rear wheel removal job into a 2 hour job just because of some dorky Chrome Markland trailer hitch or a set of front rotor covers.. My HD riding neighbor thought I was nuts but,, air go,, thats the way I roll being a function over form varmint...

[Pasta Burner]

IMHO and neither way is right or wrong but I think there is a big difference between a form over function and a function over form lop eared varmint..

Maybe,, possibly being more like my friend/brother luvmy40,, I tend to be more of a function over form varmint.. When I picked up Tweeksis from Carbon_One, ragtop69gs commented to Larry asking how long Larry thought it would be before I made Tweeksis "mine" by removing all the bling and putting the stickers on her that her prior sisters had earned thru the ages.. As I recall,, Larry (who knows me well) said something like 1 week.. He was close.. When I got home I proceeded to rip Tweeksis apart, removing her carb (it was iffy) and replacing with Tweeks carbs (which would be the 3rd 1st Gen that carb bank had been on) and then on to removing her gorgeous, but totally in the way Chrome rear bumper, Chrome front spoiler, Chrome front rotor covers, fancy seat (nothing in the world like a bone stock, OEM 1st Gen seat) and a bunch of other always in the way at the wrong time bling.. IMHO,, when Murph strikes with a flat tire in the middle of the Mojave desert and its 110 degrees the last thing I want to do is turn a 20 minute rear wheel removal job into a 2 hour job just because of some dorky Chrome Markland trailer hitch or a set of front rotor covers.. My HD riding neighbor thought I was nuts but,, air go,, thats the way I roll being a function over form varmint...

 

Makes sense to me. Honestly the main reason I left them on was because of the safety advantage of more lighting. Also swapped out the halogen driving lights with some daylight colored LED’s from Home Depot, (you may recall I was having a charging issue in the bad stator? Post). Gotta get some miles on the new tires, I don’t know if I can feel the road better with them or if it’s something entirely different, the front end seems bouncy at the 20-30 mph range. Put more air in the shock, we’ll see what the ride home feels like.

[ragtop69gs]

@cowpuc I thought you would have stopped at the first rest area and started swapping parts! We all know you don't like shiny things.

 

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