hydraulic hose replacment/repair

[revpat]

I've have a 1996 RSTC which has developed a clutch fluid leak after overheating on a city/parade type ride. It's not a quick leak but does leave a fluid spot on the driveway and my clutch won't work. I noticed underneath a spot where it appears to be leaking beneath the engine but doesn't seem to be coming from the pump connection (It's kind of hard to tell without disassembling everything.) There is a torn spot in the rubber casing around the pipe line. First...

 

1. What is the most likely place of the leak or how to find that?

2. What is the easiest or best way to replace the hose (I noticed the oem hose is in several sections) and will a one piece SS replacement work and where to get?

 

Thanks and hope to hear some encouraging news.

 

revpat

 

Update: I noticed that Galfer makes a replacment hose.

Edited June 6, 2020 by revpat

[cowpuc]

Till the guru's show up with solid advice,, here is my 2 cents on what I would do.. I would remove the cover over the slave.. It is going to cost you at least a new gasket and copper washer for one of the bottom screws to do so.. Pay close attention to which bottom screw in the cover gets the copper washer - you will need this info when replacing screws.. Once the slave is exposed so you can see the area real well,, take some carb cleaner and cleanse the area real well,, a pressure washer would work too but the area is small and easily cleaned with spray carb cleaner.. Clean it well so any leaks can be detected.. Fill the res with fresh fluid and pump the lever to instagate leakage,, you may have to bleed some off to get pressure up to force a leak.. While holding pressure,, using lever,,, watch area closely for leakage.. Keep working at it,, you will find it.. If its coming from slave (watch area around where slave contacts case) - buy new slave and replace.. If its hose related,, replacing the flexible rubber to steel line with a one piece solid steel line is not a good plan IMHO.. The rubber/flexible section isolates the line(s) from movement - again,, just my opinion = backyard mechanic = take it with a grain of salt.. I have successfully replaced sections of OEM steel with regular brake line from Auto Zone on occasion though just by flaring on nipples with flare tool.. One nice thing about working on the clutch as opposed to working on the brakes,, with a clutch,, all you do is lose your clutch if an attempt at repair fails,, if we were talking brake hydraulics,, I might suggest just ordering OEM replacement parts if your not fairly familiar with how these systems work..

[revpat]

Thanks cowpuc, is the "slave" you mentioned the part on the handlebar or a part hidden behind the engine? I have a Clymer Manual and pdf of the service manual. I think I see what you are talking about. It looks like getting to it I have to remove the gear case cover. I'll look into a little deeper. I may end up carrying to my local bike shop, I don't have a Yamaha dealer nearby.

[cowpuc]

Thanks cowpuc, is the "slave" you mentioned the part on the handlebar or a part hidden behind the engine? I have a Clymer Manual and pdf of the service manual. I think I see what you are talking about. It looks like getting to it I have to remove the gear case cover. I'll look into a little deeper. I may end up carrying to my local bike shop, I don't have a Yamaha dealer nearby.

 

Yes, the part up on the handlebar is commonly referred to as the Master Cylinder, there will also be a resivour that holds the hydraulic fluid for the master up on the bar.. That Res will have a cap on it, this is where you add fluid.. The clutch lever actuates a small piston inside the master that pushes fluid down the line and into the slave where because of the pressure applied at the lever and the fluids resistance to compression - the piston inside the slave is forced against a small rod that presses against the pressure plate and opens the clutch pack = clutch pack disengages.. The part I was referring to is the slave that is indeed located down on the left side of the engine (it is customary in the untrained world that I come from to, when referring to left or right, always give direction as direction when sitting on the bike = left side would be kickstand/shifter side). You have to remove the forward bevel gear cover (but not the larger Stator cover) to access it.. Keep in mind,, when you do this that you will loose a small amount of oil and that one of the bottom screws will have a copper washer on it.. Also be mindful of which screw from that cover came from which hole.. Many people draw a small diagram of the covers screw placement on a piece of cardboard and place the screws into the corresponding location on the cardboard so they keep them straight - not a bad idea if you dont do a lot of this stuff for a variety of reasons.. The cover will come loose with a small rap of a plastic hammer as it is gasketed. Before you remove that cover, You will note right behind that cover and in between the forward bevel and the stator will be a small rubber cover - under that cover is the slave and that rubber cover is removable for bleeding the clutch system.. I know it is not exactly the same because this video is of one of my 1st Gens but it will still be remarkably close I am fairly certain.. This video was made for another member who needed help with something different but,, if you fast forward to 6:30 on the timeline - and watch a little of it from there you can see what you will find when you pop the forward bevel cover.. Really not that much going on,, fairly straightforward.. Does this help in any way?

[cowpuc]

Oh, by the Rev,, you are more than welcome!!

[luvmy40]

revpat,

We also have a forum Brother who does hydraulic hoses, skydoc_17. Earl is one heck of a nice feller' and a stand up kind of guy.

 

If we were talking about a 1st Gen, I'd tell you to look at the steel line that runs between the two hoses down the frame tube on the left side. I'm not sure if the Gen 2 bikes are configured that way.

[Marcarl]

Just to add to the confusion,,, the Master is on the handle bar, attached to a short rubber line, which screws onto a solid steel line along the frame, which then changes to a rubber line again to attach to the slave. Most likely the lower line is a culprit, or the slave itself. If I were in your position, I would contact @Skydoc and get the two lines from him, but use steel braided instead of rubber, you'll have better clutch response.

[revpat]

revpat,

We also have a forum Brother who does hydraulic hoses, skydoc_17. Earl is one heck of a nice feller' and a stand up kind of guy.

 

If we were talking about a 1st Gen, I'd tell you to look at the steel line that runs between the two hoses down the frame tube on the left side. I'm not sure if the Gen 2 bikes are configured that way.

 

Thank you, I think it's the same, I'll contact Earl to get his take too.

[revpat]

Oh, by the Rev,, you are more than welcome!!

 

Thanks for all the help. Hopefully I can fix this soon, rain this weekend but it's pretty nice riding weather here in S. Georgia.

[revpat]

Oh, by the Rev,, you are more than welcome!!

 

Yes, the part up on the handlebar is commonly referred to as the Master Cylinder, there will also be a resivour that holds the hydraulic fluid for the master up on the bar.. That Res will have a cap on it, this is where you add fluid.. The clutch lever actuates a small piston inside the master that pushes fluid down the line and into the slave where because of the pressure applied at the lever and the fluids resistance to compression - the piston inside the slave is forced against a small rod that presses against the pressure plate and opens the clutch pack = clutch pack disengages.. The part I was referring to is the slave that is indeed located down on the left side of the engine (it is customary in the untrained world that I come from to, when referring to left or right, always give direction as direction when sitting on the bike = left side would be kickstand/shifter side). You have to remove the forward bevel gear cover (but not the larger Stator cover) to access it.. Keep in mind,, when you do this that you will loose a small amount of oil and that one of the bottom screws will have a copper washer on it.. Also be mindful of which screw from that cover came from which hole.. Many people draw a small diagram of the covers screw placement on a piece of cardboard and place the screws into the corresponding location on the cardboard so they keep them straight - not a bad idea if you dont do a lot of this stuff for a variety of reasons.. The cover will come loose with a small rap of a plastic hammer as it is gasketed. Before you remove that cover, You will note right behind that cover and in between the forward bevel and the stator will be a small rubber cover - under that cover is the slave and that rubber cover is removable for bleeding the clutch system.. I know it is not exactly the same because this video is of one of my 1st Gens but it will still be remarkably close I am fairly certain.. This video was made for another member who needed help with something different but,, if you fast forward to 6:30 on the timeline - and watch a little of it from there you can see what you will find when you pop the forward bevel cover.. Really not that much going on,, fairly straightforward.. Does this help in any way?

 

Hey, I got the new hose and fluids for the clutch installed and the forward bevel gear cover back on with gasket but I'm confused as to which oil came out from that assembly? Is that the motor oil or the final gear oil that is added at the rear differential? Also, what is the slotted filler plug on the right side right behind the regular oil filler cap? Thanks in advance.

[cowpuc]

Hey, I got the new hose and fluids for the clutch installed and the forward bevel gear cover back on with gasket but I'm confused as to which oil came out from that assembly? Is that the motor oil or the final gear oil that is added at the rear differential? Also, what is the slotted filler plug on the right side right behind the regular oil filler cap? Thanks in advance.

 

The oil that leaks out of the forward bevel gear when you pull the cover is engine oil. It has not place for refill and will do so from the engine oil system as you ride it.. Its actually not much oil loss and you probably wont even notice it in the site window but its still worth checking the engine oil site window level after you have ran the bike a little after finishing the project.. My 1st Gens all really like to be filled no higher than right in the middle of the window when sitting upright on level ground.. A little lower that midway is fine too but above midway and I start seeing breather oil collecting in the air box. I am not sure I am aware of the slotted filler plug behind the oil filler cap.. Any chance you could post a quick pic of it? I would not loosen it until I knew what is was if I were you.. It may have something to do with gear alignment or something in a rebuild process.. Would love a pic.. If you have issues posting a pic, try downsizing the pic.. I use "Paint" to resize.. Gotta get the pic size down below 1025x750 pixels I believe..

You are more than welcome in advance to my friend!

Puc

[revpat]

The oil that leaks out of the forward bevel gear when you pull the cover is engine oil. It has not place for refill and will do so from the engine oil system as you ride it.. Its actually not much oil loss and you probably wont even notice it in the site window but its still worth checking the engine oil site window level after you have ran the bike a little after finishing the project.. My 1st Gens all really like to be filled no higher than right in the middle of the window when sitting upright on level ground.. A little lower that midway is fine too but above midway and I start seeing breather oil collecting in the air box. I am not sure I am aware of the slotted filler plug behind the oil filler cap.. Any chance you could post a quick pic of it? I would not loosen it until I knew what is was if I were you.. It may have something to do with gear alignment or something in a rebuild process.. Would love a pic.. If you have issues posting a pic, try downsizing the pic.. I use "Paint" to resize.. Gotta get the pic size down below 1025x750 pixels I believe..

You are more than welcome in advance to my friend!

Puc

 

Here is the slotted filler cap of some kind on the right side behind the oil filler cap. Thanks for the info on the oil. I did check the oil level and it seems right in the middle of the window.

[cowpuc]

Here is the slotted filler cap of some kind on the right side behind the oil filler cap. Thanks for the info on the oil. I did check the oil level and it seems right in the middle of the window.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=119099

 

Looks like a gear alignment hole or something other than an oil fill spot.. I would not remove it just to look in there. Maybe do some digging in a shop manual or wait for one of the clubs guru's who have actually worked on a later model V-4 to show up enlighten us..