Venture Capitalist Posted May 7, 2020 #1 Posted May 7, 2020 I'm hoping someone can help me out. For the past couple of years my starter has been really slow but only when warm and I see by looking on here that is a pretty common problem. Yesterday I went out and it fired right up but it died because i didn't choke it in time. When i went to restart when i hit the starter button nothing happened and the neutral light and everything else electric went out. I took a multi meter and put black on neg batt post and red on the starter relay that the batt cable hooks to and had power there (still no electric anywhere) then i put the red on the other side of the relay and when i turned the key it had power. Not sure but isn't that one only supposed to have power when you hit the starter switch? And can anyone tell me what to check next if that is the way the relay is supposed to act
Marcarl Posted May 8, 2020 #2 Posted May 8, 2020 Trying to decipher what you said, so going to ask some questions for clarification. -When you checked the battery voltage at the posts, what was the reading. - Did you check the clamp voltage at the battery. - Did you check for voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter, or when you turned on the ignition. - Which side of the relay were you checking. The one side is hooked directly to the battery so should read the same as the battery. - Does the headlight go off when you hit the starter. - How old is the battery, and when was the last time it was charged? Enough for now. Let us know.
Venture Capitalist Posted May 8, 2020 Author #3 Posted May 8, 2020 Trying to decipher what you said, so going to ask some questions for clarification. -When you checked the battery voltage at the posts, what was the reading. - Did you check the clamp voltage at the battery. - Did you check for voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter, or when you turned on the ignition. - Which side of the relay were you checking. The one side is hooked directly to the battery so should read the same as the battery. - Does the headlight go off when you hit the starter. - How old is the battery, and when was the last time it was charged? Enough for now. Let us know. Thanks for the reply Marcarl. Ok first of all the voltage at the battery posts reads 12.57. The side of the relay that hooks directly to the battery reads 12.57 and the other side reads 12.54 as soon as I turn the key to the on position. When I hit the starter button they both stay at 12.57 and 12.54. The headlight, the neutral light the horn blinkers never do come on. The battery is just a few months old and I noticed before I started the bike briefly the time on the panel was right. I've been riding it every day up until this and only problem has been starter going really slow and pausing then kicking in after it has warmed up but that has been happening for the past two years with any battery I put in it
Venture Capitalist Posted May 8, 2020 Author #4 Posted May 8, 2020 oh yea marcarl I've also checked all the fuses in the box over the battery for continuity. is there a main fuse somewhere I am unaware of
Patch Posted May 8, 2020 #5 Posted May 8, 2020 So for a quick pointer if you can tell us if you feel the starter hum or generate heat when you press the starter button? for now pull the headlight fuse to save power I reached out to puc but just missed him in the Chat room so I forwarded him pm
Venture Capitalist Posted May 8, 2020 Author #6 Posted May 8, 2020 hey patch how's it going? none of the lights are working no horn radio the starter button doesn't even change the voltage on the side of the relay that isn't going to the battery. is that side supposed to be have 12.57 volts just by turning the key?
Patch Posted May 8, 2020 #7 Posted May 8, 2020 OK, unfortunately I am not formidable with that year model. But there should be a main fuse my 91 had a glass one just off the battery red lead, check that carefully. Did you not mention that you had power to the fuse box? I'll stay on line with you for a bit
Patch Posted May 8, 2020 #8 Posted May 8, 2020 I'm hoping someone hcan help me out. For the past couple of years my starter has been really slow but only when warm and I see by looking on here that is a pretty common problem. Yesterday I went out and it fired right up but it died because i didn't choke it in time. When i went to restart when i hit the starter button nothing happened and the neutral light and everything else electric went out. I took a multi meter and put black on neg batt post and red on the starter relay that the batt cable hooks to and had power there (still no electric anywhere) then i put the red on the other side of the relay and when i turned the key it had power. That is wrong, seems to me the relay is stuck closed! so that is likely blew the main, now you will want to find that main but you will need to change the starter relay.... Now look it is possible to knock it with the butt end of a driver it might free. They are not expensive and you can put one in from a ford for now if you happen to have a ford around... take that one to the parts store see if they have one similar in amps/size... and hopefully no other damage was done Not sure but isn't that one only supposed to have power when you hit the starter switch? And can anyone tell me what to check next if that is the way the relay is supposed to ac Copy that?
Venture Capitalist Posted May 8, 2020 Author #9 Posted May 8, 2020 think I found the main fuse if that's is it inside a rubber connector right next to the battery. don't know if getting power to fuse box how do I check that, I just checked all the fuses for continuity and they were all good
Patch Posted May 8, 2020 #10 Posted May 8, 2020 I should of mentioned to disconnect the relay from the battery before replacing the main fuse. Once it is disconnect you can measure the two nubs poles for resistance, if it shows infinity you know it is stuck
Patch Posted May 8, 2020 #12 Posted May 8, 2020 think I found the main fuse if that's is it inside a rubber connector right next to the battery. don't know if getting power to fuse box how do I check that, I just checked all the fuses for continuity and they were all good OK mine was a rectangle glass fuse but yours could have been replaced? So you check it by continuity again but you must also make sure the contacts arent burnt. For the other main fuse box my question is is there power going to it?
Patch Posted May 8, 2020 #13 Posted May 8, 2020 remember to disconnect the relay or you might end up chasing your tail.
Venture Capitalist Posted May 8, 2020 Author #14 Posted May 8, 2020 ok to check if there is power to the fuse what do I just put the black to battery ground and the red to one of the fuses?
Patch Posted May 8, 2020 #16 Posted May 8, 2020 ok to check if there is power to the fuse what do I just put the black to battery ground and the red to one of the fuses? First if you can pull it then do so and check just the fuse for continuity
Venture Capitalist Posted May 8, 2020 Author #17 Posted May 8, 2020 yeah copy you on disconnecting relay and chasing my tail. if I put a new main fuse in and the relay was stuck it would just blow the new fuse right?
Patch Posted May 8, 2020 #19 Posted May 8, 2020 yeah copy you on disconnecting relay and chasing my tail. if I put a new main fuse in and the relay was stuck it would just blow the new fuse right? at least that
Venture Capitalist Posted May 8, 2020 Author #20 Posted May 8, 2020 actually I live in an apt. and was on the way to go finish fixing my van. I had to put a new rod and piston in it have it all back together and was starting the bike to go put the timing belt on, so now I don't have a running vechicle, by van is at a friends house where I could do the work and most all my tools are in it.
Venture Capitalist Posted May 8, 2020 Author #21 Posted May 8, 2020 I do have an electric bicycle i am going to have to ride to the store tonight. i usually only use that for taking my dog out for a run
Venture Capitalist Posted May 8, 2020 Author #23 Posted May 8, 2020 thanks for the help patch, i'm going to go pull the relay and put in new main fuse
saddlebum Posted May 8, 2020 #24 Posted May 8, 2020 (edited) If memory serves me right the main fuse on the 83 is a replaceable leaf it should be in a case on the left side of the battery. when it goes it is severed into two pieces. If it is in one piece it is ok. however the connection at either end of the leaf can be corroded and dirty. you can remove the leaf clean the contacting surfaces and put it back together. If it is in two pieces then it has blown. generally there will be spare fuse leaves tucked into the rubber holder to replace the blown one. It may have a clear cover just not sure anymore. Edited May 8, 2020 by saddlebum
Patch Posted May 8, 2020 #25 Posted May 8, 2020 want me to stay on line ? I can I'm just watching the news.
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