Solid Motor Mount???

[FROG MAN]

Ok it looks like a solid motor mount upgrade may fix the wobble problem on the first gens. That the feed back I'm getting from the poll on the subject and other thread research. Is this a Yamaha kit upgrade or an after market product? What about cost for parts? Is this a winter upgrade project or a weekend job? Any Pros and Cons to the upgrade or is everybody happy with the solid motor mounts? I need part #'s.Is the kit the same for an 84 and 89?

[Squeeze]

You can purchase a Set from Yamaha out of Aluminium and Aluminium or Delrin from John Furbur at Blue Ridge Mountain Sportsmax. Or you can make your own on a Lathe. There's Sketch on the Internet, i could provide. Sizes are all the same.

[lonestarmedic]

I would suggest the purchase route. You can add Rick at Buckeye Performance to the list. He also sells the solid mounts. From what I can tell, it is a good all-day job to put them in. Probably 6-8 hours depending on tools and equipment. I recall seeing a few write-ups on the subject. Some of them are tight to access.

 

JB

[93 venture]

When i put my mounts in it took me about 6 hours but i did not change the left rear lower , because the only way i could see to change it was to just about take out the engine or take ever thing loose and turn the engine in the frame to get at it. my bike had about 78,000 miles on it when i did the mounts, my old rubber mounts were shot. i could put a pry bar under the engine and on top of the frame and move the engine about 3/4" up and down they were so bad. after i replaced the mounts and test drove the bike for the first time it was a new bike, and the feeling of the rear end on ice went away for good after 80 mph. i have had it up to 115 mph and it still felt fine no shakes or fish tailing. you will feel a little more engine vibration, but its worth doing for sure. all of the 2nd gens come from the factory with solid mounts installed, maybe yamaha did know some thing was up with the shake problems

[Guest Swifty]

I ordered the front 2 from Buckeye, they are the easiest to change if you didn't want to go all out.

[CrazyHorse]

I got mine from Rick at Buckeye. Did them all and the left rear you do have to twist the motor to get it in but I did all 6.

[GigaWhiskey]

The motor needs to be practically out for #5 & #6. I pulled the engine forward a bit and tilted/twisted it get #6 in. The last two will wear on your mind and fingers but you get a great feeling you have accomplished all of them.

[Dano]

Got mine from John Furbur at Blue Mountain (thanks Squeeze) the Delprins. About 85 bucks with shipping for all 6. They're going in with the motor this afternoon as soon as the boy gets back from cutting grass. Along with rebuilt forks with Progressives and all new bushings and seals, rear end re-torqed correctly, etc. I should have a "Red Rocket" on rails. Can't wait to try her out!!!!

 

Dan

[GigaWhiskey]

Hey Dano, know it will be a really tight fit with all 6 in there. Be patient and take the time needed to get the mounts all lined and bolted up. Hope you got a torque wrench that goes low enough too.

 

There is a bar that came off of the long bolt mount (the bolt goes through it) in the front. I could not get that back in and just left it out.

[Dano]

Hey Dano, know it will be a really tight fit with all 6 in there. Be patient and take the time needed to get the mounts all lined and bolted up. Hope you got a torque wrench that goes low enough too.

 

There is a bar that came off of the long bolt mount (the bolt goes through it) in the front. I could not get that back in and just left it out.

 

Well, since everything is clean and new, we'll just have to see how it works. 'Course those 3 coats of paint and 2 coats of primer might add a little thickness (!!) to the brackets. I have slid the mounts into the motor and between the rear mounts to make sure they fit. Just the bare frame with no wiring or extra stuff to get in the way. Maybe gonna try leaving the left side upper mount bracket and the lower right frame bar a little loose till I get them worked in there. 'Preciate the pointers, though. Will post picks tonite on the progress.

 

Dan

[FROG MAN]

I guess my mounts must be bad from age and not wear. The 84 has 24K and the 89 has 27K.

[Dano]

It was harder to get the motor back inside the frame area, scratched the h**l out of my paint, gonna have to touch it up. Mounts went right in though, even got the bar across the front in. One suggestion though. Don't tighten anything up till you have all the bolts started, especially the right frame rail!!!

It's in and tightened up now. After an hour break to prepare with care about 3 HUGE Porterhouses (been a year since I had 1 of those) and then consume with great abandon, I'm just letting it settle down and then I'll get the swingarm and other stuff back on there. Hardest part about tearing it down 3 months ago is remembering in what order to put things back on!!!!!

 

Dan

[GigaWhiskey]

I just hope you can just get it back together, no matter what order you put it back together in.

 

I would attempt what you did on other bikes but not this one. This bike has too much going on.

 

Glad you had the gonads to do this, I checked mine in the drawer.

 

It will be nice to see this finished.

[CrazyHorse]

There is a bar that came off of the long bolt mount (the bolt goes through it) in the front. I could not get that back in and just left it out.

 

I cut the bar down and made it fit.

[GigaWhiskey]

I would like to know what real purpose that tube makes. Does that bolt flex enough to where it really needs it? If that was not on it and all 6 solid mounts are in, would it make a difference if the tube was there or not?

 

Just curious. If it does still need to be there, I got some more work to do.

 

My little project (Intercom cables) this weekend got a lot bigger and I have most of the plastic off. Found some new cracks and broken tabs (Fixed them), lubed the speedo (took it all the way out) and replaced all ten instrument panel bulbs.

[Yammer Dan]

One of them start with this end up wherever I get projects.

[Dano]

I would like to know what real purpose that tube makes. Does that bolt flex enough to where it really needs it? If that was not on it and all 6 solid mounts are in, would it make a difference if the tube was there or not?

 

Just curious. If it does still need to be there, I got some more work to do.

 

My little project (Intercom cables) this weekend got a lot bigger and I have most of the plastic off. Found some new cracks and broken tabs (Fixed them), lubed the speedo (took it all the way out) and replaced all ten instrument panel bulbs.

 

Hey Gig, the only thing I can think is that they wanted to make sure it was tight across there so the bolt didn't come loose so you could put proper torque on it.

As with your intercom job, that's why I just decided to do this, because I didn't want to be caught out with any surprises when I was riding this year. Too many times last year the bike just felt "squiggly", I knew I wanted 2nd gear fixed sooner than later (cause I kept forgetting to take it easy in 2nd) and being 24 years old with no knowledge of maintenance on the bike (now know almost none!) I decided it needed to be done. I will feel much more confident in the bike without hesitation to take it anywhere. And I will know who did the work (me) and how it was done.

Believe me Yammer, the gonads have been tight a couple of times, but you gotta get in the water to learn how to swim!!!!

 

Dan

[Gearhead]

I've not done the solid mounts, so this is just my opinion, FWIW. Yammy mounted the motor in rubber so it could move a little and absorb vibration. All 6 mounts are rubber, of course. Replacing them all with solid mounts transmits more vibes into the frame but allows the engine to stiffen up the chassis, helping the hi-speed weave. That's all fine and dandy, I like it. But...I wouldn't replace SOME of the mounts with solid and leave the others rubber. The solid mounts won't give, while the rubber ones will. This will place great stress on the mounts that are solid because they will be trying to prevent the movement that the rubber mounts are allowing.

 

Jeremy

[Guest Swifty]

But...I wouldn't replace SOME of the mounts with solid and leave the others rubber. The solid mounts won't give, while the rubber ones will. This will place great stress on the mounts that are solid because they will be trying to prevent the movement that the rubber mounts are allowing.

yeah...but...this isn't space shuttle tolerances and stress we're talking about, and many have done it. I think doing ONLY 2 is the better way because it adds some rigidity without producing any extra noticeable vibrations.

[Dano]

If I were to only replace 2 of them, it would be the two uppers in the front. Reason being, the rears are mounted directly to the frame where all the tubes come together, the lower front has the cross tube to help in the rigidity. The uppers only have a nut and washer on them, so rigids in this position would help the most.

Just my stoopid opinion, hope it helps cornfuse somebody!

 

Dan

[Squeeze]

I think a partial Replacement makes no Sense. A To establish a stiffer Connection and using the Motor to take Frame Movements, it needs at least the rear Mounts and the upper in front.

 

If you want to reduce the Vibrations which are induced into the Frame, use the Delrin Mounts from John Furbur/BRM Sportsmax . Since the Handlebars on the 1Gen are mounted in Rubber, there should be not as much Vibrations induced as on a Vmax or an other stiff mounted Handle Bars.

 

If you're willing to take the Job, do them all or leave it like it is.

 

Oh, and replacing all with solid Motor Mounts hasen't hurt any Motor. I'm sure, i would have heard of such an Incident.