Barnett Carbon Fiber Clutch Kit with Steels

[Smilerider]

It is time to replace my clutch, so I ordered the Barnett Carbon Fiber Clutch Kit with Steels. When I opened it up I notice that none of the clutch plates have any reference marks on them. I have watched several videos on here and YouTube showing the process to replace and all mention and show these notches. It appears that the new plates must be put back in the same way. My question is shouldn't my new plates have these marks? How would I know I installed them correctly in the correct position without said notches?

 

Thanks for any assistance

 

JM

[Du-Rron]

My question is shouldn't my new plates have these marks? How would I know I installed them correctly in the correct position without said notches?

 

Thanks for any assistance

 

JM

 

That would be a question for Barnett. Just slap them in and they should be fine. They are generic and fit many bikes. If they put the indents on them they would have other customers asking what they were for. If you are using the original clutch basket and hub, they only fit real well one way, which is the same way they came apart. Pay attention as to how they came apart. Get some new clutch hub bolts while you are at it.

[bpate4home]

It is time to replace my clutch, so I ordered the Barnett Carbon Fiber Clutch Kit with Steels. When I opened it up I notice that none of the clutch plates have any reference marks on them. I have watched several videos on here and YouTube showing the process to replace and all mention and show these notches. It appears that the new plates must be put back in the same way. My question is shouldn't my new plates have these marks? How would I know I installed them correctly in the correct position without said notches?

 

Thanks for any assistance

 

JM

 

I used the Barnett set in my '06. I did not see the reference marks either but everything worked very well when I was done. Like I've said in previous posts, I am no mechanic or gearhead.

[Smilerider]

Thank you both for responding. I also purchased the Barnett Spring Conversion Kit as well as a new gasket. The only thing I'm not finding is the retaining wire that I see some say to break or cut to remove. Once I have that, then I'll be able to tackle this project

[Du-Rron]

Thank you both for responding. I also purchased the Barnett Spring Conversion Kit as well as a new gasket. The only thing I'm not finding is the retaining wire that I see some say to break or cut to remove. Once I have that, then I'll be able to tackle this project

 

The wire has two "Mickey Mouse Ears" that protrude inside the clutch basket. The wire is threaded through a trough scribed into the clutch hub for flush fit. Don't break the wire as you will then find it difficult to remove. Poke the mickey mouse ears through the clutch hub towards the outside. Using a screwdriver, wood dowel, brass punch, whatever ya got, push the clutch steel towards the center of the engine to help relieve spring pressure against the wire and remove the wire. Yes, there is one more spring you will be pushing against and it is shown as part number 16 in the top diagram and part 1 in the bottom one. Then you will remove the parts shown in the bottom diagram. KEEP THEM in case you want to reinstall them later and remember, don't screw up the wire. And, ya know the manual is available on this site as well.

 

 

[Smilerider]

Thank you for the continued advice and help. I have yet to start this project as work has kept me busy 6 days a week. I had planned to do this before the weekend but other projects took over. I'm regretting it with the weather so nice and having my first 3 days off since last June. Maybe tomorrow I can tackle this project and give her a rest ride

[Papa Fred]

You'll enjoy the clutch setup once it's done. As stated in other responses, the little retaining wire can be a bit of a bear to remove and re-install, but if you pay attention and think thru what needs to be done, it's pretty straightforward. And NO...you don't have to cut the wire to get it out. Really long-nosed pliers will work. Also as previously stated, the new Pressure Plate will only fit properly one way out of the six possible positions ( this is where someone else will reach for the keyboard to correct me). Based on my own experience of installing that same Barnett Pressure Plate Spring Conversion kit along with all the Barnett Friction and Steel discs a year ago, I can only offer you what I experienced.

 

The Pressure Plate will feel like it fits in any of the six possible positions. You'll have to put a fair bit of pressure on the new springs/bolts when getting them started. You can snug down all 6 bolts, but do not torque them at this point. Look at the clutch disc pack....Do Not pull in the Clutch Lever, but if there is any free movement in the discs as though you had pulled it in, the Pressure Plate is in the wrong spot. Remove all bolts, rotate the Plate one hole and try again. When the Plate is in the correct position, the Clutch Discs will be compressed as if the Lever was out. Be sure to tighten the bolts in a cross-hatch pattern, torque them to spec, and before you put the cover back on, try the Clutch Lever and watch the Clutch Pack. You should see the Pressure Plate moving in and out freeing up the Discs.

While some members have stated that the Barnett Conversion Kit made the clutch "feel" heavy with a lot more effort required to pull the Lever making the Clutch tiring to use in traffic, I did not experience that problem. The Clutch pull is nearly identical to the OEM set-up I removed, and can easily be held in with 2 or 3 fingers. (6 ft tall and a Buck 90 with my leather jacket) The only difference I've noticed is the clutch now has a much smoother take-up coming thru the friction zone and there is ZERO slippage at any throttle in any gear.

 

Remember..this is what I experienced when I installed the same Conversion Kit in my 2000 RSV. I should also note that it took me longer to remove the old Clutch Cover gasket form the Cover and the Engine than it did to do the rest of the job.

 

Follow the procedure outlined in several areas, remember to have your new Friction and Steel discs soaking in a shallow pan of your favorite engine oil as you are removing the old ones, prepare a list of colorful words you are going to use getting that wire out, and enjoy the time learning stuff.

 

Cheers...

Papa Fred