Rewiring Fuse Block. Why is the 40 Amp Main Fuse Circuit Wire So Skinny?

[Bob K.]

I'm working on purchasing a replacement "do it all" fuse block. I want to purchase a 12-circuit fuse block to replace the MAIN fuse (40 amps), the 5 glass fuses, the CLASS fuse, and 3 other accessory inline fuses I have installed & attached directly to the battery. Everything I find is only rated for 30 amps max per inline circuit.

 

1. Why in the world does no one manufacture a mini (ATM) fuse block or a low profile mini (APS) fuse block? A more compact ATM or APS fuse block would fit a lot better on top of the battery than an ATC fuse block.

 

2. Why in the world does no one manufacture an automotive or marine fuse block that can withstand more than 30 amps per circuit? Yes, I know I could just replace the MAIN fuse with a standalone inline 40-amp blade fuse holder, but I want to incorporate it all into a single fuse block if I can.

 

3. The MAIN fuse circuit wire looks pretty skinny to me. Has anyone actually measured it? Is it actually 10AWG?

Edited May 3, 2020 by Bob K.

[suds]

I don't have answers to your questions, but I'm sure the big brains on here will reply soon. I'm just a guy who turns wenches and tries to keep my bike running, making improvements to things as I go along.

 

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[Bob K.]

For the life of me, I can't find a fuse block that will handle more than 30 amps per circuit, so I'm going to replace the MAIN fuse with a 10AWG ATM fuse holder and a 40 amp ATM fuse. I had hoped to reduce the number of connectors I have stacked on the battery's positive terminal, but it doesn't look like that's going to happen.

[Prairiehammer]

I'm going to replace the MAIN fuse with a 10AWG ATM fuse holder and a 40 amp ATM fuse. I had hoped to reduce the number of connectors I have stacked on the battery's positive terminal, but it doesn't look like that's going to happen.

 

I have a 40 Amp ATC style MAXI (APX) main fuse on mine and have but one additional ring connector besides the starter cables on the positive and negative battery posts. That single addition is for the SAE charger leads. If not for the charger leads, there would be nothing on my battery aside from the starter cables.

Edited May 2, 2020 by Prairiehammer

[Flyinfool]

A few thoughts.

I have seen to many 40A AT0 fuses melt but not blow. The issue is that there is not enough contact area between the fuse holder and the fuse blade, This lack of contact area creates heat. All of the smaller types are even worse as the contacts are even smaller. In a pinch I will go up to a 30A AT0, but don't like it.

I used a 40A inline MAXI Fuse for my main. I connected that to the solenoid end of the POS battery cable along with anything else that needed connecting direct to battery. This way there is just one terminal at the battery. This way you are much better off as there are no 30A circuits on the bike so the 30A panel you picked out will be fine. I did 2 fuse blocks, one is switched power and the other one is always hot battery power, then I have a big terminal block for ground wires, unless I have NO choice, I do not use frame grounds. Copper is a MUCH better conductor of electricity than steel.

[Patch]

Of all the bikes I'v done I liked how my Venture turned out. . Not only did I get the panel to a dry area but there was nothing to take apart to access it. I use for my main the Suzuki breaker it is flawless and just a push to reset. I happened to have many of them over the years gathering dust.

Edited May 2, 2020 by Patch

[cowpuc]

Before heading out CTFW with all the electrical updates being completed,, it might not be a bad idea to hard wire the 3 phase stator output terminal that sets on the frame about half way down under the left side cover... It would be a real shame to get stranded out in the desert with a failed stator cause that terminal melted down due to resistance buildup allowing two of the three white stator output wires to make contact thereby taking out the stator... Staying one step ahead of ol Murphy can be a career opportunity!!

[Bob K.]

A few thoughts.

I used a 40A inline MAXI Fuse for my main. I connected that to the solenoid end of the POS battery cable along with anything else that needed connecting direct to battery.

Are your positive wires butt connected into the battery cable terminal or are they on separate ring terminals that are on the solenoid stud & held in place by the nut? Also, are those components individually protected with standalone inline fuse holders or do you then route those positive wires to your fuse block?

[Bob K.]

...it might not be a bad idea to hard wire the 3 phase stator output terminal that sets on the frame about half way down under the left side cover...

Is this what you're referencing...3 white wires? And by "hardwire", do you mean get rid of the connector and just solder the 3 white wires all together or all separately? Is that a common fail point?

[cowpuc]

Is this what you're referencing...3 white wires? And by "hardwire", do you mean get rid of the connector and just solder the 3 white wires all together or all separately? Is that a common fail point?

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=118737

 

Yes sir reee Bob,, thats the puppy!!! Evil little sucker has cause many many people TONS of problems.. I have tried replacing with new,, didnt work best.. Putting ring terminals on the wires and lugging them up that way,,, better than the spade terminal idea but not the best.. And found my best luck for best long term, long distance touring protection against Murph to be clipping the spade blades off the wires, cleaning up the insulation, trimming back the black outer plastic housing some,, slipping some shrink tube over the indiviual wires AND a larger piece over all three of the wires,, solder em up, pull up the individual shrink tube and heat it to shrink. pull up the large three wire shrink tube to cover original plastic outer and the three wires in one piece and shrink it, tie wrap to frame and done.. I know,, it will now be a hassle to test the stator circuitry if the need arises BUT, IMHO,, its worth the hassle..

Yes,, IMHO,, it is a common fail point.. All of my 6 MK1 Ventures totalling +1 million miles that I personally ran em out to had those stator wires hard wired due to issues at that joint..

Oh,,by the way,, there is not polarity = just white to white.. Maybe take an ohm meter and check resistance across those white wires a pair at a time (disconnected at the terminal you have in your hand, testing leads going back to the stator so you are ohming out the stator windings) to make sure they are all the same and in spec.. also check each to ground. this will give you somewhat of an idea of the condition of your stator.. What years your scoot? 83/84's had stator issues and without the update (oil splash and orvice in crank bolt to allow oil bath) - they all failed = edit = ((OOPPPSSSS, my bad,, just noticed we are talking 93 VR,, I would still ohm out the stator before soldering the wires together anyway)).. Thats why I ask..

Edited May 3, 2020 by cowpuc

[Flyinfool]

Are your positive wires butt connected into the battery cable terminal or are they on separate ring terminals that are on the solenoid stud & held in place by the nut? Also, are those components individually protected with standalone inline fuse holders or do you then route those positive wires to your fuse block?

 

NO. Each POS wire that I connected is with its own terminal on the solenoid stud all held on with the nut. You may never need to take this apart for the rest of the life of the bike so having more than one wire there is no big deal. The 40A MAXI fuse is the circuit protection, I actually had 2 of the inline MAXI fuses, one for switched power and one for the unswitched power. But they are tucked away out of sight down the side of the fairing. Just be sure to have enough slack in the wires in case you ever manage to blow a MAXI and have to replace it. The unswitched goes direct to its fuse block, the switched goes to a 40A relay and then to its fuse block. The relay has the benefit of taking all of the running loads off of the contacts in the ignition switch.

[Bob K.]

NO. Each POS wire that I connected is with its own terminal on the solenoid stud all held on with the nut. You may never need to take this apart for the rest of the life of the bike so having more than one wire there is no big deal.

Awesome idea. Thanks! I do indeed fuss with the battery and what's near it far more than I fuss with the solenoid, and that trick will help a lot.