Jpratt1991 Posted April 26, 2020 #1 Posted April 26, 2020 Good morning, about a week ago I purchased a royal star venture with 11k miles in pretty good shape. I have gone through and put new tires on it, change as the oil, final drive oil, fuel filter and spark plugs. Is there anything else I should look into doing since this bike sat for a while? The bike runs great and brought me back from Knoxville tn to clarksville tn without any complaints. Only thing I don't like on the bike so far is the handlebars. I'm a little on the taller side at 6'3" and the bars are far to low and close for my liking. Any good aftermarket bar options? Thanks for any future feedback! I'm glad I found this website.
cowpuc Posted April 26, 2020 #2 Posted April 26, 2020 Hi J and !! and CONGRATS on the ""new"" scoot!! If it were mine, before I headed off to parts unknown - looking for adVenture out in the great desert regions and beyond,, I would drop a set of sync gauges on it,, even if the gauges show nothing exciting (like sticky carbs slides or the like) = IMHO, these V-4's love to be in sync,, helps power - fuel economy and all that.. Worth a check IMHO.. I would also lift it up, engage the brakes front and rear while giving the wheels a spin and then check and make sure the pads/calipers are disengaging properly.. I have found that cleaning the caliper pistons when ever I have a wheel off for tire change or what ever keeps the brakes operating properly.. I also would have (hope you did?) greased the pins and splines during the rear tire swap.. Its probably not an emergency status in your case cause, at 11k miles, your 07 is just about broke in from new BUT,, next tire swap,, might not be a bad idea.. Also,, I think if it were mine,, having sat for a while,, I would take a pen light and a mirror and take a peek at the fuel tank interior = rust is not your friend in that location.. Dont be fooled into thinking you can win the rusty tank battle with fuel filters (IMHO of course).. If its rusty,, coat it.. Murphy LOVES rusty tanks and clogging carbs with the rust there from at the most incredible times.. Puc
cecdoo Posted April 28, 2020 #3 Posted April 28, 2020 Hey welcome to the crowd, as far as bars Flanders makes a set for your bike that most guys seem to like. Rick at Buckeye has a complete setup I believe, bars and longer lines incl. Some guys say there is no need to replace lines, just re-route cables. Other guys say they needed new lines./cables. I am sure you will get more info on that from guys who swapped out bars. Craig
Jpratt1991 Posted May 8, 2020 Author #4 Posted May 8, 2020 Hi J and !! and CONGRATS on the ""new"" scoot!! If it were mine, before I headed off to parts unknown - looking for adVenture out in the great desert regions and beyond,, I would drop a set of sync gauges on it,, even if the gauges show nothing exciting (like sticky carbs slides or the like) = IMHO, these V-4's love to be in sync,, helps power - fuel economy and all that.. Worth a check IMHO.. I would also lift it up, engage the brakes front and rear while giving the wheels a spin and then check and make sure the pads/calipers are disengaging properly.. I have found that cleaning the caliper pistons when ever I have a wheel off for tire change or what ever keeps the brakes operating properly.. I also would have (hope you did?) greased the pins and splines during the rear tire swap.. Its probably not an emergency status in your case cause, at 11k miles, your 07 is just about broke in from new BUT,, next tire swap,, might not be a bad idea.. Also,, I think if it were mine,, having sat for a while,, I would take a pen light and a mirror and take a peek at the fuel tank interior = rust is not your friend in that location.. Dont be fooled into thinking you can win the rusty tank battle with fuel filters (IMHO of course).. If its rusty,, coat it.. Murphy LOVES rusty tanks and clogging carbs with the rust there from at the most incredible times.. Puc Thanks for the advice. So far I have flushed the brake fluid, changed the oil and filter, changed the fuel filter, checked the air filters and put in new plugs. I have an Ivan's jet kit, brake pads, tank bib, and most importantly a cup holder coming in this week. As far as the carb sync goes. I'll be holding off till I get the jet kit installed (I'm currently deciding which brand of gauge and shop tach I want to order). I had the tire replaced at a shop since I haven't purchased a lift yet, but I did ask them to lube pins and splines. I have looked insure the tank but not with a inspection mirror. It looks good but I will take your advice and look with the mirror. If rusting has started what do you reccomend? Thanks again!
Jpratt1991 Posted May 8, 2020 Author #5 Posted May 8, 2020 Hey welcome to the crowd, as far as bars Flanders makes a set for your bike that most guys seem to like. Rick at Buckeye has a complete setup I believe, bars and longer lines incl. Some guys say there is no need to replace lines, just re-route cables. Other guys say they needed new lines./cables. I am sure you will get more info on that from guys who swapped out bars. Craig Thank you, ill look into the flanders.
Condor Posted May 8, 2020 #6 Posted May 8, 2020 (edited) The above are all great suggestions, but on the bar issue I'm horizontally challenged myself and after doing a lot of research I found a set of Khrome Werks 10" bobbers to fit the bill. They'll get the grips off your thighs and raise them forward a bit. The bend fits the dash of a second gen perfectly... IMHO....https://www.denniskirk.com/5900142.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=CjwKCAjwzMbLBRBzEiwAfFz4gWWKA7CM6lIq1fDp0qj9SKKgzViE1_ONbu4x8v8aG2_nB9WippOcUxoCkEgQAvD_BwE&ad=45713349397 Edited May 8, 2020 by Condor
cowpuc Posted May 8, 2020 #7 Posted May 8, 2020 Thanks for the advice. So far I have flushed the brake fluid, changed the oil and filter, changed the fuel filter, checked the air filters and put in new plugs. I have an Ivan's jet kit, brake pads, tank bib, and most importantly a cup holder coming in this week. As far as the carb sync goes. I'll be holding off till I get the jet kit installed (I'm currently deciding which brand of gauge and shop tach I want to order). I had the tire replaced at a shop since I haven't purchased a lift yet, but I did ask them to lube pins and splines. I have looked insure the tank but not with a inspection mirror. It looks good but I will take your advice and look with the mirror. If rusting has started what do you reccomend? Thanks again! It's a copy/paste from a recent thread asking similar questions, I hope you find this applicable: [h=2]Re: To Kreme or not to Kreme[/h]Having been in the restore business I have tried many many different methods for restoring tanks including electrolisis, acids, sand and bead blasting, rattling bolts in a paint shaker for rust removal/prep for sealing.. Best of the best I have found for prep is White Vinegar - straight strength - filled to the brim and let the tank sit for a week.. Rinse good with water and dry with a heat gun or sit it in the sun.. I welded pipe for years, both Tig and Savick and also did a fair amount of shop tigging/shear work and applied those skills to both restoring tanks and building new. Unfortunately,, with vintage tanks, repairing and repainting takes away from their value.. I learned many years ago the Kreme Coating was not for me. I got pretty good with the stuff but had serious failures with tanks lasting out past 10 years.. The coating would always separate and cause issue with leaking again and get really ugly.. I did a bunch a tinkering with inventing my own coating and had good result using Seal All (yellow tube) as a base and MEK as a suspention/liquifier.. I actually had much better results long term with my homemade coating than I ever saw out of Kreme Coat.. Then I discovered Red Kote ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Kote-Qu...4AAMXQ1PNRauxA ) and WOWZY,, my tank restoration/repair process was changed for ever.. This is some SERIOUS stuff that I have used very successfully for many years!! Because I never did have access to the Zinc process that large manufacturers use to protect the inside of the new tanks found on all modern steel tank bikes (what happens when a bike tank rusts from sitting is the inside of the tank that is coated with Zink looses it zink, this is why after you acid a tank out to prep it it rusts again very quickly - IMHO of course) I always strove to get the tanks as rust free as possible for adhesion of the coating.. I discovered that this was not necessary with Red Kote.. A simple handful of bolts in the tank, shake it some to knock off the stalagtites,, a quick rinse with vinager and rinse with water, dry with heat gun,, apply the Red Kote and its done.. Complete job in just a couple hours. ANother extremely valuable thing about Red Kote is that it actually makes a tank within the tank and this is HUGE.. NO more patching/welding needed as the coating fills the holes/leaks so you can keep the OEM paint job intact.. I now have bikes out there that I built/restored using Red Kote with +25 years on them and still going strong!! Thats all I know about that Unc! Puc
Jpratt1991 Posted May 8, 2020 Author #8 Posted May 8, 2020 It's a copy/paste from a recent thread asking similar questions, I hope you find this applicable: [h=2]Re: To Kreme or not to Kreme[/h]Having been in the restore business I have tried many many different methods for restoring tanks including electrolisis, acids, sand and bead blasting, rattling bolts in a paint shaker for rust removal/prep for sealing.. Best of the best I have found for prep is White Vinegar - straight strength - filled to the brim and let the tank sit for a week.. Rinse good with water and dry with a heat gun or sit it in the sun.. I welded pipe for years, both Tig and Savick and also did a fair amount of shop tigging/shear work and applied those skills to both restoring tanks and building new. Unfortunately,, with vintage tanks, repairing and repainting takes away from their value.. I learned many years ago the Kreme Coating was not for me. I got pretty good with the stuff but had serious failures with tanks lasting out past 10 years.. The coating would always separate and cause issue with leaking again and get really ugly.. I did a bunch a tinkering with inventing my own coating and had good result using Seal All (yellow tube) as a base and MEK as a suspention/liquifier.. I actually had much better results long term with my homemade coating than I ever saw out of Kreme Coat.. Then I discovered Red Kote ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Kote-Qu...4AAMXQ1PNRauxA ) and WOWZY,, my tank restoration/repair process was changed for ever.. This is some SERIOUS stuff that I have used very successfully for many years!! Because I never did have access to the Zinc process that large manufacturers use to protect the inside of the new tanks found on all modern steel tank bikes (what happens when a bike tank rusts from sitting is the inside of the tank that is coated with Zink looses it zink, this is why after you acid a tank out to prep it it rusts again very quickly - IMHO of course) I always strove to get the tanks as rust free as possible for adhesion of the coating.. I discovered that this was not necessary with Red Kote.. A simple handful of bolts in the tank, shake it some to knock off the stalagtites,, a quick rinse with vinager and rinse with water, dry with heat gun,, apply the Red Kote and its done.. Complete job in just a couple hours. ANother extremely valuable thing about Red Kote is that it actually makes a tank within the tank and this is HUGE.. NO more patching/welding needed as the coating fills the holes/leaks so you can keep the OEM paint job intact.. I now have bikes out there that I built/restored using Red Kote with +25 years on them and still going strong!! Thats all I know about that Unc! Puc Awesome! I'll look into this if I need it or for future projects.
Jthomas Posted May 10, 2020 #9 Posted May 10, 2020 Welcome to group! I'm new to the RSV family too, got my 07 back in August or September. My carbs were def out of sync, the right exhaust was back firing slightly. Thankfully this bike was made for novices like me to work on! The carb sync kit was a breeze to hook up and within minutes I had the carbs back in sync and she sounded and rode even better than before. Also, I've changed the clutch fluid, which looked like coffee w/ a little bit of creamer and had a lot of sludge on the bottom. Now shifts much smoother. Careful not to get air into the system, it doesn't take much for the fluid to drop below the tiny return hole and let air in. If your clutch is slipping when riding it hard, it's most likely the clutch spring, which is notorious for wearing out on this bike. A guy here, goes by Skydoc, sells a good kit for a great price. Just make sure you have a good in-lbs torque wrench. I want to get a tach installed too. Let me know what you went with and how you like it. This forum has the tech manuals, and lot of good stuff.
dalesocha Posted July 24, 2020 #10 Posted July 24, 2020 Welcome to group! I'm new to the RSV family too, got my 07 back in August or September. My carbs were def out of sync, the right exhaust was back firing slightly. Thankfully this bike was made for novices like me to work on! The carb sync kit was a breeze to hook up and within minutes I had the carbs back in sync and she sounded and rode even better than before. Also, I've changed the clutch fluid, which looked like coffee w/ a little bit of creamer and had a lot of sludge on the bottom. Now shifts much smoother. Careful not to get air into the system, it doesn't take much for the fluid to drop below the tiny return hole and let air in. If your clutch is slipping when riding it hard, it's most likely the clutch spring, which is notorious for wearing out on this bike. A guy here, goes by Skydoc, sells a good kit for a great price. Just make sure you have a good in-lbs torque wrench. I want to get a tach installed too. Let me know what you went with and how you like it. This forum has the tech manuals, and lot of good stuff. I have a 2009 RSV and Id like to look into getting a sync kit also. Where did you get yours? Is it easy to do? Thanks Dale
luvmy40 Posted July 24, 2020 #11 Posted July 24, 2020 The Morgan Carbtune Pro seems to be the most popular one around here. I have it and have had no problems with it. I've used it for many years on many different bikes. https://www.carbtune.com/
BlueSky Posted July 24, 2020 #12 Posted July 24, 2020 I'm a little late for the original poster but a coolant drain and refill might be a good idea.
videoarizona Posted July 24, 2020 #13 Posted July 24, 2020 (edited) The only thing I would add is not a repair thought, rather and "go like heck" thought. "Ride it like you stole it" is the operative phrase for these V4's. They have no problem running right to the limiter...all day long. Short shifting will bring you lousy gas mileage, acceleration and a feeling of "what the heck?". Most of us never get into 5th gear until on the freeway over 65mph or so. She'll run all day long in 4th gear (which is also an overdrive gear). For some silly reason, Yamaha dropped the limiter from 7500rpm to 6000 rpm on these 2nd gen's. Same engine, same part numbers for the most part....so what guys did was buy an aftermarket computer and raise the limiter back up. Seems to have worked very well for those that did. Hopefully, they will chime in as to what unit they bought and how they mapped it. I believe our fearless leader, Freebird , did that when he had his 2nd Gen. All in all, I went across country in my 05. Loved everything about the ride. Loaded to the gills, she never complained and always ran perfectly the whole trip. I set my handlebars up, tuned the scoot, set tire pressure, changed oil and packed her up. That's it. Great ride. Thought on the jets, be careful there as Mom Yamaha knew what she was doing with the air handling of these motors. They are a little more finnicky to get the jetting and exhaust just right for as good as performance/mileage/tractibility as she came from factory. Now if you are a jetting expert...go for it and let us know what you did and how it went. We love to learn. Last thought...pictures are mandatory. Another saying we have..."No pictures..it didn't happen"! So get out the camera and shoot some to share as you go along! Welcome to the nuthouse! david PS. If you do get into the carbs, do a valve adjustment check as well. Shouldn't need it at your low mileage, but getting a baseline knowledge of where they are is worth the effort! Edited July 24, 2020 by videoarizona add
Freebird Posted July 25, 2020 #14 Posted July 25, 2020 I actually did add the new module. I first did it after adding the VMax rear end because the lower gears were causing me to hit the rev limiter way too soon. I added the module and raised the redline to 7250, I think it was. It made a huge difference. Loved it.
Condor Posted July 31, 2020 #16 Posted July 31, 2020 (edited) I absolutely hate the speedo on the RSV's, and got to thinking I had an old GPS that gave MPH on a little side screen and it was very accurate. So I did a Google on GPS MPH and WOW!! things have evolved. There's a ton of choices for just plain old Speedo's You might want to check them out. And the price is right on most of them... MOF I'm thinking about picking one up for my Four Winns boat. Right now it's got one of the water pressure attachments on the transom and there's no way it is accurate. Some 3 3/8" units will slip right into the opening on the dash. And even have an ODO. They even have an App for your cell phone.... Edited July 31, 2020 by Condor
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