Doogie1982 Posted April 19, 2020 #1 Posted April 19, 2020 I have a 1984 Yamha Venture Royale. I purchased a gas tank from a 1987 Venture Royale. Unfortunately it did not come with a gas cap. Is there any place I can purchase the gas cap? Also, one of the four carburetors does not appear to be getting fuel. I opened the drain screw and no fuel came out. All the other carbs appear to be getting fuel as I opened the drain screws and fuel came out. As a result the bike will not start. I have good spark to all four cylinders. Will the carb problem prevent the bike form starting?
cowpuc Posted April 19, 2020 #2 Posted April 19, 2020 It should start and run pretty good down even being down by 1 IMHO.. I have ridden numerous miles on 3 pots (even on 2) and found these scoots to be fairly good performers even on 3.. Concerning your Fuel Cap, see your looking for some carb parts too (spring)? I have 3 parts bikes and a fairly good parts supply built up = both NOS and used.. Put together a parts list and I will work you up a decent deal on your parts needs if needed.. I could probably come up with a couple references concerning my parts supplier endeavor if you need it too... Best either way getting that sweetheart back on the road! Puc
saddlebum Posted April 19, 2020 #3 Posted April 19, 2020 (edited) Sounds like maybe a stuck needle seat or float in the carb. Try gently tapping the carb in the area of the seat maybe even remove the fuel inlet line from the carb and see if you can shoot some carb cleaner in while tapping the carb. You can also try a bit of compressed air at low pressure but here you would need to use extreme caution. Also like Puc say's these things will run On 3 barrels. As a matter of fact they will run so well that unless you give it full throttle or your climbing a grade It is often barely noticeable that it's only running on 3 cyl's. If the bike is not firing at all and you have spark remove the air cleaner and check that the sliding tubes are not sticking which often happens when a bike sits for awhile. I have wet them down with some seafoam and then gently moved them back and forth with a screw drive to get them freed up. Also these guys get stubborn if you flood them. Take the plugs out and let her crank some to air out the cylinders. Be sure to blow around the plugs before you remove them. The area around the plug is a real catch basin for all sorts of stuff you do not want dropping into the cylinder. I once found a screw I thought went missing laying there. If she still wont fire dribble a bit of gas in through each carb opening if she fires then, well you will likely need to remove and service the carbs. Edited April 19, 2020 by saddlebum
Prairiehammer Posted April 21, 2020 #4 Posted April 21, 2020 I have a 1984 Yamha Venture Royale. I purchased a gas tank from a 1987 Venture Royale. Unfortunately it did not come with a gas cap. Is there any place I can purchase the gas cap? The fuel tank cap for a 1987 is a locking cap. A key to match will be needed. You CAN place the cap onto the filler neck with out the key, but you will not be able to remove the cap after doing so, without the appropriate key. Make sure you get a key that fits when you obtain another cap. As with most all discontinued parts for these old bikes, eBay is your best source. The gas cap is also still available from Yamaha, part number 54K-24602-10-00, although VERY EXPENSIVE at $110-$170! BTW, the fuel filler cap from the 1983 and 1984 will not fit on the 1985-1993 tank. Also, one of the four carburetors does not appear to be getting fuel. I opened the drain screw and no fuel came out. All the other carbs appear to be getting fuel as I opened the drain screws and fuel came out. As a result the bike will not start. I have good spark to all four cylinders. Will the carb problem prevent the bike form starting? As Ben said, most probably the float valve is stuck closed, but depending on how the bike was laid up and for how long, it is also possible that gasoline varnish/gum has blocked the fuel at the float valve NET FILTER. The net filter is a fine wire mesh and become clogged with debris and varnish. Spray carb cleaner applied to fuel inlet of that carb MAY dissolve the varnish/gum, but that potent cleaner can also deteriorate the O-ring on the float valve. If that O-ring is damaged, fuel can bypass the float valve, rendering the float valve ineffective.
Patch Posted April 22, 2020 #5 Posted April 22, 2020 I'll share some tricks with you: If I get an old project that hasn't run in... and I haven't any history on it then the first thing is Compression: compression will rule on both start and running problems as I move deeper into trouble shooting. When someone says "T have good spark" that really is a subjective interpretation because how did you conclude this? A cold damp engine needs excellent spark to kick her on to her legs. In fact it is what the term "crushing spark" relates to! Some examples of questions: how many volts are at the ignition coils, key on, switches to run, relative to battery volt readings? The use of a spark gap tester takes the guess work out of the equation, then check each spark plug after to make sure they are working or replace them. Now if the bike has spark and you suspect fuel feed then light the engine with Sure Start or similar stuff... If she wont fire with that then the other two above mentioned show doubts. If she does fire then assume for the moment that you are between compression related or fuel related issues. Another intentional is spinning the engine to slowly when cold and damp, this can cause flooding problems, because you still generate some vacuum and therefore causing the engine to flood and wet the plugs! But and even tho your explanation is way to shot to analyze I can't help but notice you don't mention anything related to backfire,,,,,,which as we all know is a **** disturbing event when a engine has been flooded then touched off by a spark
Doogie1982 Posted April 25, 2020 Author #6 Posted April 25, 2020 I have tried starting the bike with starter fluid and it did backfire a couple of times. It seems that it wants to start but never fully catches. I pulled all four spark plugs and they were all dry with no signs of flooding. I think I'm going to pull the carbs again as I never fully cleaned the jet block. All the other jets are clean. I checked spark with a spark tester and they all seemed to have the same spark. I have replaced all four spark plugs and I am still working on replacing the needle jet spring on one of the carbs. Thanks for your input will post if any new problems come up.
cowpuc Posted April 25, 2020 #7 Posted April 25, 2020 I never really personally cared much for using starting fluid on gas engines (great on diesel though IMHO) cause it tends to dry out cylinder walls and I never really cared for its combustion abilities under the lower combustion ratios,, definitely another IMHO on my part though.. I would try starting it by getting some raw fuel into the combustion chambers.. I would start by taking a syringe with a hose attached to it (small syringe like Diabetics use for injections,, also available at feed for animal use - I have both large "horse" syringes and the small ones. I use the large syringes for cleaning carbs thru the drain ports - you could use one of these but you have to be careful not to over do the combustion chamber fill so maybe stick with the smaller syringe first). Attach a couple feet of clear line onto syringe nose, fill syringe by sucking fuel from gas can, put hose into plug hole, inject 2ml of gas into each plug hole replacing plugs as you go.. Make sure your plugs at gapped at .030 (low side of spec) and use new plugs.. Open throttle, leave choke open too.. See if it will start and burn off the raw fuel.. Another method,, maybe easier but be careful with this one.. Fill an empty glass cleaner bottle with gas.. Squirt four of fives streams of raw fuel directly into carb throats in air box.. I like this cause its easier but one backfire can cause major problems so ya gotta be careful with this one..
RDawson Posted April 25, 2020 #8 Posted April 25, 2020 If I don’t use gas I substitute Wal Mart carb cleaner for starting fluid. Much less volatile so less chance of engine damage.
Doogie1982 Posted June 8, 2020 Author #9 Posted June 8, 2020 Latest update on my 1984 Yamaha Venture Royale. It is alive and running. Replaced all four float bowl gaskets and O ring for carb drain screw. After poring gas into all four carburetors I finally got the bike to idle. I can now run the bike without having to pour gas into the carbs. The only problem I have now is the Tach is not moving and I have a flashing red light on the instrument panel. Thanks to all for your help in getting the bike started and any help about the Tach and flashing red light.
luvmy40 Posted June 8, 2020 #10 Posted June 8, 2020 IIRC, The tachometer reads the #2 cylinder ignition signal. The red light could be any of the startup checks. The LCD display should tell you which.
Doogie1982 Posted June 9, 2020 Author #11 Posted June 9, 2020 Thanks for the info. I suspect it may be my fuel gauge as it is reading empty. I don't see any other fault indications.
BlueSky Posted June 9, 2020 #12 Posted June 9, 2020 I use starter fluid on all my lawn tools and occasionally have used it on a motorcycle. After sitting those tiny carbs get plugged to some extent and I used to yank the cord dozens of times to get them to start in the spring and during the summer sometimes. Now, if it doesn't start on a couple of pulls of the cord, I remove the air filter, spray a little starter fluid into the carb and it fires up immediately. They usually will stay running or restart once it fires the first time. I don't have the patience to deal with stuff that won't start any more. I also put a couple of ozs. of Gumout with PEA in the gas mix to try to keep the carbs clean. Non-ethanol gasoline of course.
Doogie1982 Posted June 20, 2020 Author #13 Posted June 20, 2020 Latest info on my 1984 Venture royale. Bike now starts and runs well. Replaced TCI and I now have tachometer movement. Now to my new problem. Battery fault indication. I installed a new battery that does not the hole for installing the fluid level sensor. Is there a way to bypass the sensor to remove the fault? Also I have leak around the clutch bleed valve. Not sure whee but, I do see a leak when I pull on the clutch lever. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks for all the help in my other problems. Once I get the clutch problem I should be able to go on my first ride4.
RDawson Posted June 20, 2020 #14 Posted June 20, 2020 Latest info on my 1984 Venture royale. Bike now starts and runs well. Replaced TCI and I now have tachometer movement. Now to my new problem. Battery fault indication. I installed a new battery that does not the hole for installing the fluid level sensor. Is there a way to bypass the sensor to remove the fault? Also I have leak around the clutch bleed valve. Not sure whee but, I do see a leak when I pull on the clutch lever. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks for all the help in my other problems. Once I get the clutch problem I should be able to go on my first https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?489-Battery-Warning-Bypass Here ya go. It’s an easy fix but it’s not hurting anything if you ride it with the light flashing, just annoying.
Marcarl Posted June 20, 2020 #15 Posted June 20, 2020 Latest info on my 1984 Venture royale. Bike now starts and runs well. Replaced TCI and I now have tachometer movement. Now to my new problem. Battery fault indication. I installed a new battery that does not the hole for installing the fluid level sensor. Is there a way to bypass the sensor to remove the fault? Also I have leak around the clutch bleed valve. Not sure whee but, I do see a leak when I pull on the clutch lever. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks for all the help in my other problems. Once I get the clutch problem I should be able to go on my first ride4. On your clutch, there are 2 places that a leak could come from in that area, one from the clutch and the other from the stator wires coming through the engine case. If you see fresh fluid when you squeeze the clutch handle and the fluid in the reservoir is down, then I would suggest it is the clutch slave that is leaking. Suggest to get a new slave and install. Not a real easy job, but doable.
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