2nd gen clutch

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

Hello all, I hope I find you all well and safe.

I am not around as much as I should be but I am smart enough to keep my membership up to date.

I am an Essential Worker so I still need to work most days but when I am doing nothing I turn to my motorcycles. This weekend it has been my 02 RSV. So I have changed plugs and done a sync on the carbs. Now it is clutch time. I have a Barnett pressure plate I bought from one of our members here that had one they were not using.

I have a gasket on order from our local shop, I prefer to buy local and support them not online.

My big questions are; will the bolts on the cover usually come off without breaking? Is it as simple as removing the old pressure plate 6 bolts and simply replacing with the new unit? I don't have to remove exhaust system to remove lower bolts? Is there an "orientation" the new plate must be installed in?

I don't want to have surprises of all the plates need to be removed or fall out.

Emotional support requested.

Thank you all. Stay safe and stay well.

[Du-Rron]

...

My big questions are; will the bolts on the cover usually come off without breaking? Is it as simple as removing the old pressure plate 6 bolts and simply replacing with the new unit? I don't have to remove exhaust system to remove lower bolts? Is there an "orientation" the new plate must be installed in?

I don't want to have surprises of all the plates need to be removed or fall out.

Emotional support requested.

Thank you all. Stay safe and stay well.

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?10518-Clutch-Upgrade

[Guest divey]

Hello all, I hope I find you all well and safe.

I am not around as much as I should be but I am smart enough to keep my membership up to date.

I am an Essential Worker so I still need to work most days but when I am doing nothing I turn to my motorcycles. This weekend it has been my 02 RSV. So I have changed plugs and done a sync on the carbs. Now it is clutch time. I have a Barnett pressure plate I bought from one of our members here that had one they were not using.

I have a gasket on order from our local shop, I prefer to buy local and support them not online.

My big questions are; will the bolts on the cover usually come off without breaking? Is it as simple as removing the old pressure plate 6 bolts and simply replacing with the new unit? I don't have to remove exhaust system to remove lower bolts? Is there an "orientation" the new plate must be installed in?

I don't want to have surprises of all the plates need to be removed or fall out.

Emotional support requested.

Thank you all. Stay safe and stay well.

Can’t help you with your questions but great to see you’re still alive and kicking’ Kevin. I was beginning to wonder! Doug

[bpate4home]

I changed mine on an '06 with out issue. I did not have to take the exhaust off but the bottom bolt required the use of a Ball Hex bit for the flexibility. Something like these which I used a T handle with them.

https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-sae-long-reach-ball-head-hex-socket-set-7-pc-67885.html

 

 

Hello all, I hope I find you all well and safe.

I am not around as much as I should be but I am smart enough to keep my membership up to date.

I am an Essential Worker so I still need to work most days but when I am doing nothing I turn to my motorcycles. This weekend it has been my 02 RSV. So I have changed plugs and done a sync on the carbs. Now it is clutch time. I have a Barnett pressure plate I bought from one of our members here that had one they were not using.

I have a gasket on order from our local shop, I prefer to buy local and support them not online.

My big questions are; will the bolts on the cover usually come off without breaking? Is it as simple as removing the old pressure plate 6 bolts and simply replacing with the new unit? I don't have to remove exhaust system to remove lower bolts? Is there an "orientation" the new plate must be installed in?

I don't want to have surprises of all the plates need to be removed or fall out.

Emotional support requested.

Thank you all. Stay safe and stay well.

[cecdoo]

I did not need to remove exhaust when I replaced clutch basket, I just ground down the allen wrench I needed to get behind pipes. There are several links on replacing clutch plates, I followed Skydocs directions because I used his kit and removed the 1/2 disc at bottom of stack. Not a bad job and if you keep bike on sidestand doubt you will loose much oil.

 

Craig

[skydoc_17]

Hey Kevin,

It's great to see that all is well with you! Now, about that clutch. Because you switched from the single Clutch Diaphragm Spring to the 6 compression springs that the Barnett Pressure Plate uses I personally would replace the 6 bolts that retain the pressure plate. These bolts are under constant pressure from the pressure plate springs and a failure would leave you high and dry, not to mention the potential for damage to the clutch pac. Cheap Insurance in my opinion. As far as the Clutch Cover goes, there is that one Cap Screw at the bottom of the cover that will require a ball nosed Allen wrench. The idea of drawing the cover on cardboard and putting the cap screws in the correct position is genius. Be mindful the pressure plate has a clocking notch. If not clocked correctly, the clutch will not work. And you won't know until you have the clutch cover back on.

Lastly, I'm not sure if I misunderstood what you are doing but let me say that replacing the clutch spring, (or springs) over and over again without replacing the clutch friction discs is not going to work very well for you. The combined thickness of the steel clutch plates and clutch friction discs creates the "stacked height" of the clutch pac. It doesn't matter how new the springs are, or how heavy duty they are, if the stacked height is too short, (out of spec) that clutch is going to slip, period. If it has been slipping for a while, you may have damaged the steel clutch plates as well. I can't tell you how many times I have seen a rider cheap out on a clutch rebuild and then complain about the crappy performance of the Clutch Diaphragm Spring or the Compression Spring in the Barnett unit. Spend the time and money to do this job correctly Kevin, and you won't be doing it again for a while.

Great to see you again Kevin, and as always, good luck with this project!

Earl

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

Hey Kevin,

It's great to see that all is well with you! Now, about that clutch. Because you switched from the single Clutch Diaphragm Spring to the 6 compression springs that the Barnett Pressure Plate uses I personally would replace the 6 bolts that retain the pressure plate. These bolts are under constant pressure from the pressure plate springs and a failure would leave you high and dry, not to mention the potential for damage to the clutch pac. Cheap Insurance in my opinion. As far as the Clutch Cover goes, there is that one Cap Screw at the bottom of the cover that will require a ball nosed Allen wrench. The idea of drawing the cover on cardboard and putting the cap screws in the correct position is genius. Be mindful the pressure plate has a clocking notch. If not clocked correctly, the clutch will not work. And you won't know until you have the clutch cover back on.

Lastly, I'm not sure if I misunderstood what you are doing but let me say that replacing the clutch spring, (or springs) over and over again without replacing the clutch friction discs is not going to work very well for you. The combined thickness of the steel clutch plates and clutch friction discs creates the "stacked height" of the clutch pac. It doesn't matter how new the springs are, or how heavy duty they are, if the stacked height is too short, (out of spec) that clutch is going to slip, period. If it has been slipping for a while, you may have damaged the steel clutch plates as well. I can't tell you how many times I have seen a rider cheap out on a clutch rebuild and then complain about the crappy performance of the Clutch Diaphragm Spring or the Compression Spring in the Barnett unit. Spend the time and money to do this job correctly Kevin, and you won't be doing it again for a while.

Great to see you again Kevin, and as always, good luck with this project!

Earl

 

Hi Earl, thanks for the reply. When you say to change the 6 bolts are you saying to upgrade the ones that come from Barnett to a better quality? I have had only minimal slippage on the clutch I think. I do not ride hard but I do a lot of Escort type riding, walking pace type stuff for cycling events mostly. I have a "kit" that I bought that has 6 new springs and 6 new bolts to install.

[cowpuc]

Hi Earl, thanks for the reply. When you say to change the 6 bolts are you saying to upgrade the ones that come from Barnett to a better quality? I have had only minimal slippage on the clutch I think. I do not ride hard but I do a lot of Escort type riding, walking pace type stuff for cycling events mostly. I have a "kit" that I bought that has 6 new springs and 6 new bolts to install.

 

 

Hi Kev,, hope you dont mind,, I am gonna try a guess at what Earl was talking about.. Lets see how close I am when he responds back and enlightens both of us.. I am guessing that he is referencing used bolts when he mentions replacing them.. I only say that cause I have found that those 6 bolts (6 bolt pressure plate was actually OEM on the MK1's so I am familiar with them too) tend to stretch and weaken over time due to the constant pressure they are under even when the clutch pack is engaged.. I always replace them when opening up the clutch basket in an effort to give the bike a fighting chance in its constant battle with Murphy..

 

What fun!!

Puc

[dfitzbiz]

The idea of drawing the cover on cardboard and putting the cap screws in the correct position is genius.

 

This tidbit from Skydoc is very important. The cover bolts are several different sizes, they have to go back in the original holes. I trace the gasket on a piece of cardboard and punch a pencil through the bolt hole locations then put the bolts in the holes as you take them out.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Kevin,

The Puckster is correct. If the pressure plate bolts were used, I would replace them. If they are new, (as in your case) I wouldn't hesitate to use them. The point being that those bolts have a service life, and once past that life either break completely, or stretch, and decrease the pressure on the clutch friction discs. Either way is bad news for your clutch.

You are good to go!

Earl

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

Every thing is new and in the plastic wrap still. I hear you with reusing bolts, it kind of my trade thing, I work on high pressure steam equipment, never reuse bolts.

Thank you for the input...... I may be back screaming for help if need be.

 

 

Hey Kevin,

The Puckster is correct. If the pressure plate bolts were used, I would replace them. If they are new, (as in your case) I wouldn't hesitate to use them. The point being that those bolts have a service life, and once past that life either break completely, or stretch, and decrease the pressure on the clutch friction discs. Either way is bad news for your clutch.

You are good to go!

Earl

[Flyinfool]

The other thing that @skydoc_17 mentioned was the thickness of the steel plates and friction discs. A new friction disc measures 3.0mm (.1181 inch) thick and the wear limit is 2.8mm (.1102 inch) thick. I do not remember the thickness for the steels offhand, but unless you really abused the clutch they should be fine. I'm old and have CRS.