Blowing fuse

[Guest Sgt402]

All of the sudden I started blowing the fuse for blinker and gauges. I replace it and my volt gauge will show 13 for a while then bounce down to 8. Sometimes it comes back up but not always but the fuse will then blow again. Any Ideas???

[Squeeze]

I'd say Regulator/Rectifier is bad

[Guest Sgt402]

How does an idiot like me test that?

[Gearhead]

You're repeatedly blowing just one fuse? Could be a short in that circuit - a bare wire somewhere.

 

Jeremy

[Neil86]

The voltmeter is on the signal fuse circuit, so a heavy draw on that circuit pulls the indicated voltage down, till it overloads the fuse and blows it. The horns are on the signal fuse, and are wired hot. Brown is the hot wire, pink goes to horn button then to ground. I'd look over the horns closely for a short right at the horn to ground.

[chocking]

I start started having the exact same problem with that same fuse, but mine will go fine for a day or so then when I go out in the AM, the gauges and blinkers are dead, replace the fuse and fine for a day or so. never blows while running. I just go out and find that fuse blown. I was going to start looking. It's easy to replace the fuse in 2 or 3 minutes but a hassle.

Any ideas would be great.

Clay

[Gearhead]

It must be blowing as soon as you turn the key on. I have a similar situation on my Virago - tail light and parking lights. Start inspecting the wiring from the blinkers and horns. Pay attention wherever the wires go around corners and where the harness moves with the bars. These kind of faults, intermittent, aren't easy to locate.

 

Jeremy

[Dano]

Look for any wiring coming from the regulator (inside left swingarm), stator Out of left case, (3 white wires coming up left frame) and any other wiring that is affected by anything moving. What I'm getting at, you could be grounding out a wire as you shut off the bike and get off of it (moving the seat, kickstand down, etc.). That may explain the fuse being blown the next time you ride. Pull the plastic side panels, false tank cover, lower fairing legs, etc. to see everything. The drop in your voltmeter is showing aheavy draw on your battery/stator.

 

Dan

[Guest Sgt402]

Did some more messing with the bike and found that if I turn ignition to full on but dont start it the fuse will not blow even if I use a lower amp fuse. Does that elminate the idea of it being a short in the wiring?

[Dano]

Activate your turn signals, 4 ways, brake lights, radio, etc. If nothing blows, then possibly in the stator or regulator/rectifier that only shorts when its working.

[GeorgeS]

Use the Block Diagram on page 7-41 of the Service Manual. ( Its on this web site )

 

Follow the " Br " wire from the " Signal " fuse, to find all components that are fed voltage from this fuse.

 

This fuse Feeds. ----- Horn , Inst panel, Hazard Switch, Turn signal system, And, the " EAND System "

 

I would start looking at the Horn Wireing. Do the Horns work ???? Both of them?

 

Also, the " Trunk Light " I would check the Trunk Light first, As the its very Easy for the Wireing at the Trunk Lid, to become damaged, near the hinge.

 

Another, possible cause would be an " internal Short " in a Light bulb, however this would be extremely rare, however, I have seen this happen to light bulbs.

[Neil86]

As mentioned before....the voltmeter is reading the voltage off wiring in the signal fuse circuit. When you have a heavy draw on that fuse the voltage on that circuit will drop below the other circuits....I think if you were to test the actual battery voltage when this "low voltmeter" reading occurs, you'll find the battery voltage is much higher that the voltmeter reading. The proof you have a hi line draw on this circuit alone is that only that fuse is blowing.

The reason I suggested horns earlier is they are out in the elements...getting rain, eng vibes etc....so a short there is likely. Even though you tested by turning key on.....you don't have the vibration and heat that the wiring harness is subjected to when the bike is running. George's suggestion of trunk light is a good one....my wiring diagram is for a standard without that light.

Another method would be to wiggle harnesses with engine running....to see if you can simulate the short. Turn handlebars lock to lock, etc.

So the fuse blows just riding along without doing any maneouvers...ie braking, turns, etc...correct? What year Venture do you have? Any recent repairs to bike....mods, etc?

Edited May 17, 2008 by Neil86

[muffinman]

If you are talking about a First gen then your problem is in the tail light circuit.It took me 2weeks to find mine but try this.Turn the bike on in the dark and start wiggling the wires around the Class area over the rear wheel also if it is wired for a traler check that wiring.

Jeff

[GeorgeS]

What did you find???

 

When you get it fixed, you are required to Post Your Findings !!!

[chocking]

I have not yet found my short, but will be working on it this week. Simply driving w/o blinkers, hornTach, Nuetral and other computer signals..Mostly slab time anyway.. but.. my short ( fuse blowing) has gotten worse... I have it narrowed down to it occurs everytime I turn my handlebars to the left. I'm thinking horn wiring. but am going to tear all the plastic off this week and replace plug wires and re-grease all possible connections within reach at the same time...

 

I hate electrical issues. They are maddening to say the least:mad:

 

Clay

[Guest Sgt402]

Wire insulation was wore off just inside the handle bar

[Saddle_Bag]

After having the same problem, with the same fuse. I discovered that the signal line was and was not the problem. The side lights on the front bumper, had been run thru this circuit. The wire was rubbing against the braided brake line and shorting things out. I'd got with Neil. Look for a short. Mine burned thru the insulation and then burned thru the braided brake line. Keep looking! Check accessory wiring . joe

[Gearhead]

Hey Sgt, do you mean just inside the LH control pod on the bar?

 

Jeremy