Intake manifold install - ube/oil orings or RTV?

[jfman]

When installing the carb boots/manifold on you engine, do you guys recommend oiling/lubing the new orings (with ATF) for a better seal or do you recommend putting a film of RTV on the cylinder head mating surface or the boot mating surface prior to install?

[Marcarl]

If the rubber is nice and flexable then I use a product called Fluid Film. It's made from lanolin and so has no effect on any of the rubbers or rubber type components. It is alos nice and slippery so helps to seat the boots etc in their proper location. If the materials are getting hard and old then I would replace them as no sealant will continue to work well under flexing components.

[Du-Rron]

When installing the carb boots/manifold on you engine, do you guys recommend oiling/lubing the new orings (with ATF) for a better seal or do you recommend putting a film of RTV on the cylinder head mating surface or the boot mating surface prior to install?

 

I have used Rubber Lubricant before to install carb boots very easily and not pinch any orings.

You can get a lifetime supply of bead-lubricant/rubber lubricant XTRA-SLIK from Oreillys for $12.00 gallon.

This stuff is slipperier than gorilla snot mixed with owl S%$!.

The good part is after a while it dries out and helps to seal whatever rubber part (tires, carb boots, etc) you were trying to install.

 

[Prairiehammer]

When installing the carb boots/manifold on you engine, do you guys recommend oiling/lubing the new orings (with ATF) for a better seal or do you recommend putting a film of RTV on the cylinder head mating surface or the boot mating surface prior to install?

 

Generally, sealant is not recommended on any O-ring. Light compatible lubricant is acceptable.

 

When assembling the carburetor "joints" onto the cylinder head, please note that the mounting bolts are not all the same length. Putting the 20mm bolts into the wrong location will cause the long bolt to break through into the cam oil gallery.

[MiCarl]

I've generally used silicone spray lubricant.

 

I agree with the others - no sealants.

[Patch]

Generally, sealant is not recommended on any O-ring. Light compatible lubricant is acceptable.

 

When assembling the carburetor "joints" onto the cylinder head, please note that the mounting bolts are not all the same length. Putting the 20mm bolts into the wrong location will cause the long bolt to break through into the cam oil gallery.

 

Right on Kevin.

 

I'm going to add a couple things, while the carbs are off it is the best time to check compression; also when installing or removing carbs from the boots it is best to use a lube like WD which helps save the sealing ring inside the boots from chipping, also helps the seating of the carbs by reducing the friction before clamping!

[jfman]

Generally, sealant is not recommended on any O-ring. Light compatible lubricant is acceptable.

 

When assembling the carburetor "joints" onto the cylinder head, please note that the mounting bolts are not all the same length. Putting the 20mm bolts into the wrong location will cause the long bolt to break through into the cam oil gallery.

 

I did not even notice the difference in bolt lenght when I removed the boots.

 

So you are saying the two bolt holes that seep oïl require use of the shorter bolts?

[jfman]

I have used Rubber Lubricant before to install carb boots very easily and not pinch any orings.

You can get a lifetime supply of bead-lubricant/rubber lubricant XTRA-SLIK from Oreillys for $12.00 gallon.

This stuff is slipperier than gorilla snot mixed with owl S%$!.

The good part is after a while it dries out and helps to seal whatever rubber part (tires, carb boots, etc) you were trying to install.

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=118535

 

 

I cant go to the auto store right now but I do have a tube of brake caliper sliding pin grease that is heat resistant and supposed to not iterfere with rubber.

 

What do you think?

[Prairiehammer]

I did not even notice the difference in bolt lenght when I removed the boots.

 

So you are saying the two bolt holes that seep oïl require use of the shorter bolts?

 

None of the bolt holes should seep oil.

If any do, it is because the incorrect bolt was installed previously, thus breaking into the cam oil gallery.

[Prairiehammer]

I cant go to the auto store right now but I do have a tube of brake caliper sliding pin grease that is heat resistant and supposed to not iterfere with rubber.

 

What do you think?

 

Don't worry about what kind of lube to use on the O-rings at the base of the carb joints/holders/boots.

As long as the head surface is clean and defect free, and the O-rings are new and proper, dry assembly is OK.

The TOPS of the joints (where the base of the carb fits) can be simply lubricated with WD-40, Vaseline, lithium grease, etc. Not that critical. Lubrication at that location just makes carb insertion easier.

[Patch]

OOOH post #9 what a pucker moment Bro! Great picture!!!!!

[Du-Rron]

None of the bolt holes should seep oil.

If any do, it is because the incorrect bolt was installed previously, thus breaking into the cam oil gallery.

 

Owwwee... How did you get that picture? Wait... I don't wanna know...

[Du-Rron]

I cant go to the auto store right now but I do have a tube of brake caliper sliding pin grease that is heat resistant and supposed to not iterfere with rubber.

 

What do you think?

 

Everybody has their favorite stuff. Silicone grease is OK but not my 1st choice. I would say, NEVER use WD-40 on any rubber as it will destroy it.

Iuse XtraSlik as a rubber lubricant because I already have a lifetime supply of it for mounting tires and whatnot. It is super nasty slick when wet and when dry it does not act like a sealant, but their is a minimal surface -tack- to it.

 

 

But, that does not seem to be the main problem now if you already broke into the heads with the use of longer bolts. Owwwwweee,

[jfman]

None of the bolt holes should seep oil.

If any do, it is because the incorrect bolt was installed previously, thus breaking into the cam oil gallery.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=118536

 

On both of my ventures when I first disassembled the bikes initialy to remove the boots, oïl came out of the two same holes on both bikes. So I scratched my head but marked it as normal.

 

 

The far left front mounting hole and the rear far right mounting hole seps oil for both bikes.

 

I even pulled the cams on one bike and did not seen/notice damage in these holes..

 

So I am saying both of my bikes have been like this for a lo-onng time.

Edited March 26, 2020 by jfman

[Prairiehammer]

On both of my ventures when I first disassembled the bikes initialy to remove the boots, oïl came out of the two same holes on both bikes. So I scratched my head but marked it as normal.

 

 

The far left front mounting hole and the rear far right mounting hole seps oil for both bikes.

 

I even pulled the cams on one bike and did not seen/notice damage in these holes..

 

So I am saying both of my bikes have been like this for a lo-onng time.

 

Were there shorter bolts (16mm long) in those holes (upper bolt on #2 cylinder and upper bolt on #3 cylinder)?

The rest of the bolts (quantity 6) are 20mm long.

[jfman]

Were there shorter bolts (16mm long) in those holes (upper bolt on #2 cylinder and upper bolt on #3 cylinder)?

The rest of the bolts (quantity 6) are 20mm long.

 

I honestly do not remember. I just removed all boots to make room for valve covers removal and also to clean them and threw all of the bolts in a ziplock bag.

 

 

What do I do considering both bikes have been like this for years.

 

Judging from the condition of the gaskets and seals that O am pulling, it's been well well over a decade that these bikes have been in this condition.

[Prairiehammer]

I honestly do not remember. I just removed all boots to make room for valve covers removal and also to clean them and threw all of the bolts in a ziplock bag.

 

 

What do I do considering both bikes have been like this for years.

 

Judging from the condition of the gaskets and seals that O am pulling, it's been well well over a decade that these bikes have been in this condition.

 

When you reassemble, just insure that the shorter bolts go where they are supposed to go. Clean the threads on the short bolts and in their respective hole with degreaser and then apply a very light coating of sealant on the bolt before mounting. Don't use very much sealant. Excess sealant could be pushed into the now open oil gallery.

[jfman]

Is this a common problem for these bikes or am I unlucky that both of my ventures have this?

[Prairiehammer]

Is this a common problem for these bikes or am I unlucky that both of my ventures have this?

 

It is a common problem.

An inattentive mechanic may not notice the different bolt lengths.

AND the same inattentive mechanic when looking at the parts diagram sees the longer bolt (91317-06020)going into the threaded hole in the head at the exact location that the shorter bolt (91314-06016) should go. The parts diagram is wrong, but if the mechanic were to look at the parts LIST, he should see that there are just two 16mm bolts (#7) and the list correctly assigns the shorter bolt to its proper location. But the drawing does not!

Edited March 26, 2020 by Prairiehammer