FutureVentures Posted March 4, 2010 #26 Posted March 4, 2010 "And once I leveled it, it felt like someone had taken about 300lb off of the bike. It's that big of a difference. For me, anyway." I couldn't agree more. Lowered mine last year and WOW, what a difference, feels like a new bike. MUCH more nimble at slow speeds. It does scrape sooner on turns but that's okay, cause it's fun. Now, I can even back the beast up in gravel!
Globewalker Posted March 5, 2010 #27 Posted March 5, 2010 This is very interesting and helpful... So.. how do you lower the front? for free? And I havent checked what psi I have in the front shocks.. don't yet have the right guage/pump, but would that have a factor in the height of the front? Thanks!
Squidley Posted March 5, 2010 #28 Posted March 5, 2010 This is very interesting and helpful... So.. how do you lower the front? for free? And I havent checked what psi I have in the front shocks.. don't yet have the right guage/pump, but would that have a factor in the height of the front? Thanks! Keith, Make it to a Maintenance day here in Texas and we will teach you how it's done. I'm actually getting good at it, BTW where are you located? ...and about the air pressure in the shocks, it's negligeable on the amount that it moves the forks up. It's more for dampening the bumps.
wes0778 Posted March 5, 2010 #29 Posted March 5, 2010 This is very interesting and helpful... So.. how do you lower the front? for free? The Cliff Notes version is: 1. Split the fairing 2. Take off the handlebars 3. Disconnect the inner fairing 4. Take the retainer nut off the triple tree 5. Loosen the clamp bolts and remove the top part of the triple tree 6. Remove the fork covers 7. Loosen the bottom fork clamp bolts 8. Make a mark on the fork tube the distance you want to lower the front (Max 1") 9. Push the tubes up to the mark 10. Re-assemble in reverse order. With the excellent folks that did mine, it takes about 3 hours. Ride and enjoy!!!
Globewalker Posted March 5, 2010 #30 Posted March 5, 2010 Keith, Make it to a Maintenance day here in Texas and we will teach you how it's done. I'm actually getting good at it, BTW where are you located? ...and about the air pressure in the shocks, it's negligeable on the amount that it moves the forks up. It's more for dampening the bumps. I am in Spring (Houston area). Wanting to put pull back handlebars on also... Should I try to do that at same time since handlebars have to come off.. or I imagine they don't have to come off that far eh.. Thanks
Squidley Posted March 5, 2010 #31 Posted March 5, 2010 I am in Spring (Houston area). Wanting to put pull back handlebars on also... Should I try to do that at same time since handlebars have to come off.. or I imagine they don't have to come off that far eh.. Thanks Were neighbors 1960 and Kuykendahl for me. If you want to do it, let me know, I'd be happy to help you
Globewalker Posted March 5, 2010 #32 Posted March 5, 2010 Were neighbors 1960 and Kuykendahl for me. If you want to do it, let me know, I'd be happy to help you Wow what a generous offer.. this is definitely a helpful group here. Yes we are neighbors.. I am off Cypresswood near I45. I will PM you!
Ponch Posted March 6, 2010 #33 Posted March 6, 2010 Hay Keith. We're having a maintenance day March 27 at James Burrell's place near FM 249 & Spring Cypress Rd. Hope to see you there.
Renne Posted March 6, 2010 #34 Posted March 6, 2010 Spring has sprung for all I care! I brought my RSV home yesterday from storage and a pleasant ride home it was (at 41 degrees)! The first thing I'm going to do this weekend is ,,,,,drop my front end! Wish me luck,,,I'll report the progress and personal eval if ya'all like..... Renne..............(early bird in central Mn.)
atlm Posted March 6, 2010 #35 Posted March 6, 2010 If you haven't already, I'd highly recommend setting up ropes or straps from the ceiling above the bike, to support the handlebars and rear part of the fairing while they're disconnected. The first time I disassembled stuff, it took me 7 hours and a neighbor's assistance at the end because I was trying to balance everything. The next time, with the supporting ropes, it took me 3, and no extra help. There are pictures in this forum (I think under VR tech) showing what I'm talking about.
Globewalker Posted March 8, 2010 #36 Posted March 8, 2010 (edited) All the threads about this mod involves Venture owners. This also possible for the RSTD right? Are the forks the same? Has anyone done this on an RSTD? I have an 07 RSTD Also, was reading on another thread/forum the concern of bottoming out and the fork tubes impacting the fender after lowering the front. Has anyone had this problem after lowering it? Thanks Edited March 8, 2010 by Globewalker add
wes0778 Posted March 8, 2010 #37 Posted March 8, 2010 All the threads about this mod involves Venture owners. This also possible for the RSTD right? Are the forks the same? Has anyone done this on an RSTD? I have an 07 RSTD Thanks It is my understanding that it cannot be done on the TD, 'cause the speedometer is in the way. I'm sure some more knowledgeable folks will chime in...
Globewalker Posted March 10, 2010 #38 Posted March 10, 2010 It is my understanding that it cannot be done on the TD, 'cause the speedometer is in the way. I'm sure some more knowledgeable folks will chime in... Yea.. I see what you mean... I think you are correct BUMMER The handlebar is wider to accomodate the wide speedometer so it is right over the shock valve about 1/2" clearance if lucky and cables are routed in between. I guess lowering the rear is my only option...
Squidley Posted March 10, 2010 #39 Posted March 10, 2010 Yea.. I see what you mean... I think you are correct BUMMER The handlebar is wider to accomodate the wide speedometer so it is right over the shock valve about 1/2" clearance if lucky and cables are routed in between. I guess lowering the rear is my only option... Keith, I know that Owen replaced his front springs in his RSV with a lowering set that moved the front end down without moving the forks up. Might want to get ahold of him and see what kind they were
Owen Posted March 10, 2010 #40 Posted March 10, 2010 Keith, I know that Owen replaced his front springs in his RSV with a lowering set that moved the front end down without moving the forks up. Might want to get ahold of him and see what kind they were Here is the original post I made after lowering the bike. Don't know if the kits will work on the TD. Owen
RandyR Posted March 10, 2010 #41 Posted March 10, 2010 Here is the original post I made after lowering the bike. Don't know if the kits will work on the TD. Owen It should be the same on the 2005 and up TD....
Globewalker Posted March 10, 2010 #42 Posted March 10, 2010 Hay Keith. We're having a maintenance day March 27 at James Burrell's place near FM 249 & Spring Cypress Rd. Hope to see you there. This does sound interesting.. I know I could learn alot and would be nice to meet some of you guys.. But I am pretty sure I am out of town that weekend. If it falls through, I will ask someone for directions. THANKS.
djh3 Posted January 28, 2012 #43 Posted January 28, 2012 Ok I lowered my 09 RSV the other day. What little I have rode it I can say so far I like it. However it appears that now when the wheel is tracking straight it appears the handle bars ar slighly askew to the right. How would it be possible to get a 3 point hook up (tripple tree) to not go back on straight is what I'm trying to figure out. The center point is fixed and teh 2 fork holes are preset. So once you have the forks set at your heighth and the tripple tree slips on you would think its all square right? It drives fine just bugs the heck outa me. Do you think if I tear the fairing all apart again and jack up , well basicly tear it all back to the part of adjusting the shocks somehow square up the wheel. Maybe measure back from rear of shock to the frame or something fixed to be sure the wheel is straight. Or do you think maybe will just be able to loosen the trippe tree bolts and give it a "tweak" to the left would squear up the bars. The shocks measure the same amount out of the tripple tree, within a couple thousands on a caliper. I went to 7/8".
Rick Butler Posted January 29, 2012 #44 Posted January 29, 2012 Harold, Lowering the bike with the forks has absolutely nothing to do with a speed wobble no more than raising the rear with a set of leveling links. Both of these changes level the bike to give it a better handling attitude. A front end wobble at any speed will always comes back loose head bearing torque. And MSF and Ride Like a Pro will only educate you on handling techniques at speeds at below 35mph, which is great if you only want to ride in parking lots and make U turns in a 2 lane road. But don't get me wrong, these are both great learning tools and I have been a MSF poster child in the past. But if you want to learn the techniques to make you a better rider to handle your bike in all situations at road speeds, you need to spend a day in a Novice Track School class. Rick I dont recomend lowering the front end of the RSV. I got a wicked speed wobble on mine on the first trip, so I raised it back up that night!!!!!!! Lowering the front end of my bike was probally one of the dumbest things I have ever done to a motorcycle!!!!! I recomend that you get the narrower front tire insted. Skip the Leveling Links also!!!!!! Get the Ride Like a Pro V DVD ASAP!!!!!!!!! and LEARN how to properly ride a motorcycle. Attend the MSF riders couse too!!!!!!! EVERY YEAR!!!!!! I KNOW that I need better riding skills!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I practice the techniques EVERY time I ride my bike!!!!!!!
Rick Butler Posted January 29, 2012 #45 Posted January 29, 2012 (edited) Yeah Dion, If you feel it's really out of line, I would jack it up to the point there is just some slight weight on the front wheel and loosen up the triple tree bolts and re-tighten them to specs. I know this is a PITA but that's what I would do to assure everything is aligned? Rick Ok I lowered my 09 RSV the other day. What little I have rode it I can say so far I like it. However it appears that now when the wheel is tracking straight it appears the handle bars ar slighly askew to the right. How would it be possible to get a 3 point hook up (tripple tree) to not go back on straight is what I'm trying to figure out. The center point is fixed and teh 2 fork holes are preset. So once you have the forks set at your heighth and the tripple tree slips on you would think its all square right? It drives fine just bugs the heck outa me. Do you think if I tear the fairing all apart again and jack up , well basicly tear it all back to the part of adjusting the shocks somehow square up the wheel. Maybe measure back from rear of shock to the frame or something fixed to be sure the wheel is straight. Or do you think maybe will just be able to loosen the trippe tree bolts and give it a "tweak" to the left would squear up the bars. The shocks measure the same amount out of the tripple tree, within a couple thousands on a caliper. I went to 7/8". Edited January 29, 2012 by Rick Butler
djh3 Posted January 29, 2012 #46 Posted January 29, 2012 For whatever reason the forks were a pain to get to come up. I ended up removing the front wheel because best I could tell it sort of put it in a bind lowering it to try to weight on them to go up. I am realitivly sure it is fine. But it is just an annoyance. But I'm gonna tear it appart today and basicly start from scratch all over. Double check measurements. Hey now that I know where all them little sucker bolts are it shouldnt be to bad. Them 2 on the back of the handelbars get me though. I'm going to check today though, I think I have a 1 1/16" wrench so maybe I can leave the handlebars on the trip tree. I just put risers on it the other day and man that was a challenge. Dont really care to go thru again.
wes0778 Posted January 30, 2012 #47 Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) For whatever reason the forks were a pain to get to come up. I ended up removing the front wheel because best I could tell it sort of put it in a bind lowering it to try to weight on them to go up. I am realitivly sure it is fine. But it is just an annoyance. But I'm gonna tear it appart today and basicly start from scratch all over. Double check measurements. Hey now that I know where all them little sucker bolts are it shouldnt be to bad. Them 2 on the back of the handelbars get me though. I'm going to check today though, I think I have a 1 1/16" wrench so maybe I can leave the handlebars on the trip tree. I just put risers on it the other day and man that was a challenge. Dont really care to go thru again. I lowered mine a full inch. I agree that it takes some extreme persuasion to get the forks to move in the triple tree!!! Right Thor (aka gunboat on here) :rotf: One of the best mods I have made on the bike!!! Edited January 30, 2012 by wes0778 Couldn't help it just HAD to add photos
djh3 Posted January 30, 2012 #48 Posted January 30, 2012 Well spent the afternoon going back thru this operation. Paying special attention to getting everything "square" as us racers say. First I tried just loosening up the tripple tree clamps and seeing if I could maybe get it to move to th left, nope. Finally I just went back to square one. I took off the chrome covers and then reinstalled the triple tree and snuged up the nut. Then loosened up the lowers and got out the dial calipers and checked my distances from top of shock to the triple tree. Made sure all that was even (well I got it within.007) best I could do. I was shooting for like 7/8" and I think it read like .884 or something so I sluged up the right side. Matched the left within the .007 mentioned and snuged up the lower on that one. Then took off triple tree and reassembled as normal. First I centered up the wheel, measuring from the screw head on the lower rad fairing to the edge closest to the rad on the fork. So with that centered I measured with a tape to a couple points like rear crash bars. Then I just used a piece of string and measured from the end of the handle bars to like the pin on the rear floor boards and again to the crash bars. I also measured from the fork to the bolt head that secures the gas tank. So with all of them looking pretty much the same I finnished putting it together. Was dark whrn I finnished but best I can tell it looks a heck of alot better. I may have done alot more than I had to but I was dange sure I was going to do all I could to make sure it was right in my mind. Yea I know I probably went off the deep end on this but its right.
papatop49 Posted March 22, 2012 #49 Posted March 22, 2012 (edited) Also interested in this adjustment. I am a perfect weight for 6'3"...however, I am just 5'7", so I need to bring the ground closer to my feet. I have already lowered the rear end 1" and was also looking to lower the front end 1". Someone in our club lowered his front end by moving the triple tree lower on his shocks. Has anyone else done both with success? Edited March 30, 2012 by papatop49
Mike G in SC Posted March 22, 2012 #50 Posted March 22, 2012 (edited) Also interested in this adjustment. I am a perfect height for 6'3"...however, I am just 5'7", so I need to bring the ground closer to my feet. I have already lowered the rear end 1" and was also looking to lower the front end 1". Someone in our club lowered his front end by moving the triple tree lower on his shocks. Has anyone else done both with success? Yes,,, in a word. Tonight, when I get home, I will post a link or two already on this forum. But I had a guy at Lake Norman, NC drop the front of my RSV last month. You got to know what you are doing,,, he does. If you drop the front 1" to 1 1/2" you will really like it,,, especially at 5'7",, promise. Look for a later post. Mike G in SC EDIT: here's the one I wanted you to see: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66844 Edited March 22, 2012 by Mike G in SC
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