Gas MPG

[Jthomas]

I remember seeing a thread about poor MPG but I cant find it using search, so sorry if this is a redundant post.

My 07 RSV is getting 32-34 MPG with a range of only 135ish on the main. I've syncd the carbs and threw a bunch of seafoam and other cleaners with PAE into the gas. My air filter is nice and clean. The tires are brand new and filled. My clutch is starting to slip when riding hard, but that shouldn't impact it right? What all can I do to ensure I'm getting the best performance and milage out of my bike?

 

Mind ya, I'm in Commifornia so the gas quality is terrible compared to other states. In LA and MD my old bike got upper 40s-low 50s with a range of 125+ on main tank evem w/ riding it hard and/or with wifey on back. Got here and at best I got 100-110 miles on the main. My truck went from easily getting 21 MPG, now it stuggles to get 18 MPG. I got my RSV after moving here so I can't compare it to other states I've lived in. California sucks, gas wise (amazing rides though!). Any other Californians getting about the same MPG, 32-34ish?

[sldunker]

If it were mine I would make sure it is running on all 4 cylinders.

A good way to check this would be to start it when the engine is cold. Let it run for 15-20 seconds and shut off. Check all 4 exhaust pipes by the head. They should all be about the same temp. If you have one that is colder that is the cylinder that is not firing.

[Patch]

I remember seeing a thread about poor MPG but I cant find it using search, so sorry if this is a redundant post.

My 07 RSV is getting 32-34 MPG with a range of only 135ish on the main. I've syncd the carbs and threw a bunch of seafoam and other cleaners with PAE into the gas. My air filter is nice and clean. The tires are brand new and filled. My clutch is starting to slip when riding hard, but that shouldn't impact it right? What all can I do to ensure I'm getting the best performance and milage out of my bike?

 

Mind ya, I'm in Commifornia so the gas quality is terrible compared to other states. In LA and MD my old bike got upper 40s-low 50s with a range of 125+ on main tank evem w/ riding it hard and/or with wifey on back. Got here and at best I got 100-110 miles on the main. My truck went from easily getting 21 MPG, now it stuggles to get 18 MPG. I got my RSV after moving here so I can't compare it to other states I've lived in. California sucks, gas wise (amazing rides though!). Any other Californians getting about the same MPG, 32-34ish?

 

I was waiting for you to post on the cylinder check before commenting.. But I'd likely forget what I was thinking so..

 

I see a loss of 17% between 40 to 34 mpg.

 

On my gen 1.5 the very best and rarely also was 42, 38 was well within reach tho.

 

A couple of things to conciser, what rpm range do you cruise at on this bike and in which gear? That of course assumes you have a tach

 

Now lets look at the assumption you make above: yes there is a loss it is due to advance! I've been modelling a work around but for a carb setup this isn't easy and the TPS may offer a chance for cheating but the standard control box might disagree?

Now if it were vacuum advance that would be different again; as would injection bud again that would take control tuning. So maybe the answer lies in a bolt on that will remove advance from the management fixed/limit programming?

Any ideas flyinfool?

 

Just a note: advance has to do with ignition duration, which in this case duration needs to be extended, or a sequential spark likely would do the trick and in my opinion is the better option.

[Du-Rron]

I remember seeing a thread about poor MPG but I cant find it using search, so sorry if this is a redundant post.

My 07 RSV is getting 32-34 MPG with a range of only 135ish on the main. I've syncd the carbs and threw a bunch of seafoam and other cleaners with PAE into the gas. My air filter is nice and clean. The tires are brand new and filled. My clutch is starting to slip when riding hard, but that shouldn't impact it right? What all can I do to ensure I'm getting the best performance and milage out of my bike?

 

Mind ya, I'm in Commifornia so the gas quality is terrible compared to other states. In LA and MD my old bike got upper 40s-low 50s with a range of 125+ on main tank evem w/ riding it hard and/or with wifey on back. Got here and at best I got 100-110 miles on the main. My truck went from easily getting 21 MPG, now it stuggles to get 18 MPG. I got my RSV after moving here so I can't compare it to other states I've lived in. California sucks, gas wise (amazing rides though!). Any other Californians getting about the same MPG, 32-34ish?

 

If your clutch is slipping replace the spring at least.

 

Here is a documented with receipts, low mpg, on a high speed trip, with bike running great.

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109912-How-far-have-you-driven-on-Reserve-Fuel

[cowpuc]

As customary with this group of lop eared wrench spinning varmints, IMHO, all good advice thus far.. If it were my scoot the first thing I would do knowing that Sea Foam found its way into the tank is I would run the fuel out of it and replace with new fuel. Then I would grab some new NGK stock plugs, gap em on the lower end of the gap range so as they got broke in they would fall in the wider spec range. I have noticed that running Sea Foam creates a sheen on the plugs so I would swap in the new plugs. Next I would pull the carb slide diaphrams and make sure they are in good shape with no pin holes or wear tears. I would check the lip of the diaphrams where they contact the carb bodies to make sure no holes are evident under the mounting edges. One of my 83's snuck down into the low 30's on mpgs and I found that the metering rod orvices had oblonged after 250k miles of usage. Dropping the needles (gotta shim them on the 83's, no clips on the metering rods on these) a mill and a 1/2 cured it and the mpg went back above 40 mpg. Making sure pipes are open as well as good air filters and entrances into the filters are not filled with mice nests is good too. Another thing to double check is brake conditions. A slightly dragging brake can do a number on mpgs as well as tire air pressures. When starting my 1st Gens first thing and using choke I like to get it off choke as quickly as possible as over choking blackens plugs and the "D" plugs Mom Yam used in the v-4's dont seem to take to kindly to blackening. Set up properly, 20k miles out of a set of regular plugs seems normal.. Fact is, IMHO its a good idea to swap out the plugs in that range anyway to avoid the plugs getting stuck in heads from not being changed (a downside of running iridiums and only swapping plugs every 100k)..

[Jthomas]

Set up properly, 20k miles out of a set of regular plugs seems normal.. Fact is, IMHO its a good idea to swap out the plugs in that range anyway to avoid the plugs getting stuck in heads from not being changed (a downside of running iridiums and only swapping plugs every 100k)..

I've been thinking about checking/replacing the plugs anyways, the bike has 41k miles and I'm not sure if it's original or was replaced.

The brakes sticking actually got me wanting to rebuild the front calibers and replace the lines even more. My front brakes are stiff, little pressure barely engages, little more press nothing changes, little more and lots of breaking power. She seems to roll back and forward in neutral good, but either way I want to see if one of my calibers is sticking and I bet my brake line is original too.

Wife and bank account are finally in agreeance that I can buy the clutch spring kit that one of the guys on here sells.

When it comes to carbs and adjusting the advance, I get nervous.

[OutKast]

Look for old posts from V7goose concerning float levels and mileage. There you will find the answer you are looking for!

[Patch]

I've been thinking about checking/replacing the plugs anyways, the bike has 41k miles and I'm not sure if it's original or was replaced.

The brakes sticking actually got me wanting to rebuild the front calibers and replace the lines even more. My front brakes are stiff, little pressure barely engages, little more press nothing changes, little more and lots of breaking power. She seems to roll back and forward in neutral good, but either way I want to see if one of my calibers is sticking and I bet my brake line is original too.

Wife and bank account are finally in agreeance that I can buy the clutch spring kit that one of the guys on here sells.

When it comes to carbs and adjusting the advance, I get nervous.

 

DuRons thread seems to indicate (as I read it) the mileage you posted is what the guys are seeing which was I think your original question..

 

Puc's post makes sense and, it would be interesting if you post the pics of the plugs showing cylinder number; all drag is of course wasted energy.

 

As for advance, this is a problem we are seeing more and more as well as an increase in maintenance due to this B.S fuel.

But I'll mention, you cannot change factory advance without tricking and also, I'll mention this, there is a fine line when advance works against the crank.

But, and in the end what is required is solid and consistent compression heat, solid spark and, a more lean combustion especially at cruising RPM's.

Shifting more often will also help deliver more torque output verses opening the throttle in cruising gear. "Inertia" a (state of mass in motion) wants to keep moving or maintain; think of it in terms of the crank, it takes more energy to get it to move (rotate) at speed then it does to keep it at speed.. 5th to 4th with just a light crack of the throttle uses the forward motion of the bike to drive the crank speed back up,,, broken down, it is splitting the load between fuel and "inertia" so throttle plate angle is kept low, velocity is kept high, driven by the combination of energy to the crank;) you should then be running leaner, less fuel more air lower ignition duration, less wasted fuel!

 

Good to the last drop;)

[Jthomas]

If your clutch is slipping replace the spring at least.

 

Here is a documented with receipts, low mpg, on a high speed trip, with bike running great.

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109912-How-far-have-you-driven-on-Reserve-Fuel

 

Good read, sounds like my milage is actually typical. Seems like most of ya'll are getting the low fuel light first then gotta switch to reserve. For me, almost always I run out of my main about 5 miles before the light comes on.

[Rafterd]

Carburetor float level setting is the best thing you can do to improve fuel mileage. There is a great right up here somewhere. It’s what I used.

 

Bill

[Du-Rron]

I've been thinking about checking/replacing the plugs anyways, the bike has 41k miles and I'm not sure if it's original or was replaced.

 

Yup do that.

 

The brakes sticking actually got me wanting to rebuild the front calibers and replace the lines even more. My front brakes are stiff, little pressure barely engages, little more press nothing changes, little more and lots of breaking power. She seems to roll back and forward in neutral good, but either way I want to see if one of my calibers is sticking and I bet my brake line is original too.

 

Yup do all that

 

Wife and bank account are finally in agreeance that I can buy the clutch spring kit that one of the guys on here sells.

 

Yep Yep

 

When it comes to carbs and adjusting the advance, I get nervous.

 

This engine has a throttle position sensor. Do not lug this engine. Don't shift into 5th until above 60mph. Keep the engine speed up in all other gears as well. See chart below. You lose ignition advance the slower the engine is turning with a wider throttle opening. Keeping the engine lightly loaded, spinning freely, and a light throttle hand will get you maximum mileage.

 

I get about 35mpg when I ride like a sane person.

 

[Patch]

I would be interested in reading about the float measurement as it pertains to economy? If anyone has a link

 

Good model DuRon!

[grubsie]

I get about 35mpg when I ride like a sane person.

 

I have read other threads here and on FB about people getting awful mpg. Glad it's not me. I haven't seen a perfect solution to the problem yet, but I suspect that I would first check to see if all the plugs are firing like mentioned earlier. If they are, I would dive into the carbs next. First checking the sync, then physically removing and cleaning the carbs and re-setting the floats if the sync didn't improve things.

 

Whether I am riding solo or 2up, I have been averaging between 45-48 mpg. Granted, a lot of the riding is 50mph max on back roads and hills and mountains in New England. And I mean lots of hills, but I usually go through 1/4 of a tank per ride on secondary roads so I can get up to 65-70mph on those roads. I usually don't have to go to reserve until I hit around 210 miles. It doesn't matter whether it's a 200 or 400 mile day, the mileage only varies a couple mpg. The few times that the mileage ever drops below 45mpg is if I am riding all day highway miles. I avoid highway riding like the plague. Even at that, it's been 40-45mpg.

 

This on my 2008, got the same on my previous '08 and previous '06. I run new iridium plugs every year, run seafoam about every 3-4 tanks, also winter store with seafoam, sync the carbs twice a season and check tire pressure every other ride.

[Patch]

I have read other threads here and on FB about people getting awful mpg. Glad it's not me. I haven't seen a perfect solution to the problem yet, but I suspect that I would first check to see if all the plugs are firing like mentioned earlier. If they are, I would dive into the carbs next. First checking the sync, then physically removing and cleaning the carbs and re-setting the floats if the sync didn't improve things.

 

Whether I am riding solo or 2up, I have been averaging between 45-48 mpg. Granted, a lot of the riding is 50mph max on back roads and hills and mountains in New England. And I mean lots of hills, but I usually go through 1/4 of a tank per ride on secondary roads so I can get up to 65-70mph on those roads. I usually don't have to go to reserve until I hit around 210 miles. It doesn't matter whether it's a 200 or 400 mile day, the mileage only varies a couple mpg. The few times that the mileage ever drops below 45mpg is if I am riding all day highway miles. I avoid highway riding like the plague. Even at that, it's been 40-45mpg.

 

 

 

This on my 2008, got the same on my previous '08 and previous '06. I run new iridium plugs every year, run seafoam about every 3-4 tanks, also winter store with seafoam, sync the carbs twice a season and check tire pressure every other ride.

 

 

That works out to 5.23 lt per 100 klm.

I have have seen this before and with confidence I can say, you are down a jug.

[OutKast]

Carburetor float level setting is the best thing you can do to improve fuel mileage. There is a great right up here somewhere. It’s what I used.

 

Bill

 

I believe those posts were authored by user V7Goose IIRC. I am thinking after his adjustments, most achieved 36-40 mpg instead of the typical 30-32.