coolant blowout

[Venture Capitalist]

I'd use pipe dope or Teflon tape

 

yeah should have thought of that. too late now just finished. I did put silicon around the outside and going to let it dry overnight before I put any water in it

[Venture Capitalist]

Do a search on this forum for thermostat cross reference and buy a t-stat from NAPA or whatever auto parts store you use. I replaced my t-stat and used an auto unit and it only cost me a few bucks. Been working fine for three years.

 

Checked my old notes and came up with: NAPA #156 and Stant #13758 .

 

Jim

 

Alright I got er together and running with no leaks. I called the local napa and nothing came up when running my bike for compatible tstats. so I asked them if there is any way for them to check if #157 is compatible. they told me they couldn't check that but that is for a volvo. is that the one you are talking about, should I go ahead and order it?

[SpencerPJ]

Did a little searching.

 

This thread says Napa #455318

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?100751-Thermostats-1st-gen-exact-dupl-cheap

 

This says napa THM156

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?30874-1st-Gen-Thermostat

 

This says a THM111 Napa runs a bit cooler

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?72258-Cooler-Thermostat-170%B0&highlight=thermostat

[Venture Capitalist]

Congrats on your progress, nice looking bike. Yes, on my computer, one option is 'reply with quote', another option is simply, 'reply to thread'.

 

wow when napa said they would have to order it thought it would take a while. they said ok it will be here in 2 hours. I ordered the 455318 because it said exact duplicate. hope it works I think he had a 87 hopefully it's the same one

[Venture Capitalist]

Congrats on your progress, nice looking bike. Yes, on my computer, one option is 'reply with quote', another option is simply, 'reply to thread'.

 

I went and got the tstat from napa. Not sure if I need to put it in, on the ride there and back (might have been my imagination) I think the temp gauge came down a little from it's hottest point, which I think would mean the tstat was working. Since I got that bike it has always ran really hot. Everyone says they do run hot. My temp gauge works, when I got it, it go up to just a tiny bit below the red. Since then I had to take the speedometer out to grease the cable(what a god awful noise that started making) and when I put it back together it doesn't go that high but I know it's not because the engine isn't getting as hot it's how I lined the gauge back up when putting it in. So I guess the best way to ask is, in the middle of winter does it get so hot that you calves get really hot just sitting on the foot pegs?

[SpencerPJ]

So I guess the best way to ask is, in the middle of winter does it get so hot that you calves get really hot just sitting on the foot pegs?

 

No idea, I don't ride in wintertime. But in summertime, with shorts on, I don't find it hot at all unless I've been riding, it's a hot day, and I'm in stopped traffic. Does your fan come on?

 

 

Since then I had to take the speedometer out to grease the cable(what a god awful noise that started making)

 

Yup, Know that sound... there are some good threads in this Forum on how people have lubed them.

[Venture Capitalist]

No idea, I don't ride in wintertime. But in summertime, with shorts on, I don't find it hot at all unless I've been riding, it's a hot day, and I'm in stopped traffic. Does your fan come on?

 

 

 

 

Yup, Know that sound... there are some good threads in this Forum on how people have lubed them.

 

ok so that tells me I better go put that new tstat in mine must be running way to hot, I couldn't imagine trying to ride with shorts on. When i'm riding and it's in the 40's I have to put my feet up on the highway pegs every chance I get to keep my calves from burning up. I don't know if the fan comes on properly when it should. I do know that it works. I read thread on here on how to hot wire to see if it works and it did.

[SpencerPJ]

I'm not one of the smart ones to give advise, I'm a middle aged student in training . But those who have suggested you might have a water pump problem, hence a circulation problem, they very well might be spot on. Also, I do not know where the temp units gets it's reading, but if you still have that bypass closed, who knows? I always though the TStats job was to raise to stop circulation until determined operating temperature then open to allow circulation. NO Tstat should run very cool. Hopefully Puc or Patch will jump back in with advise.

[Venture Capitalist]

Alright, I got it done. Got the new tstat in and its running cooler that it ever has. Guess I was lucky to drive it around for two years like that and have nothing worse than a blown hose happen. I want to thank everyone on here for all the great advice. You guys are the best, couldn't have done it without you. I do have one more question though. When I replaced the tstat I accidently made my bike into a Yamahog. It's really loud because I was afraid to tighten the pipes down to hard, thinking it was going into aluminum. Just realized that what I was doing was just putting the nuts on the end of the studs coming out. So should I go ahead and tighten those down as hard as I can? I do have a torque wrench but they a Allan's that i'm working with there.

 

THANKS EVERYONE!!!!

[SpencerPJ]

I would not crank on the exhaust bolts, just a good snug; equally. Next time you go to harbor freight, get some metric allen sockets, very handy. Glad you are almost there , You'll like this forum, best $12 I spend each year, I couldn't keep my old girl running without it.

[Patch]

I think Spencer has done very well keeping up and supporting your thread V.C.!

 

The exhaust bolts I lube then if you snug with a 6" allan key you should be good.

 

As we mentioned a check of the pump and a rad flush would be a good move, then as mentioned a stop leak is a good idea for those old cast aluminum

systems.

 

Not worry about asking us questions we enjoy spending you money from a distance;)

[Venture Capitalist]

I think Spencer has done very well keeping up and supporting your thread V.C.!

 

The exhaust bolts I lube then if you snug with a 6" allan key you should be good.

 

As we mentioned a check of the pump and a rad flush would be a good move, then as mentioned a stop leak is a good idea for those old cast aluminum

systems.

 

Not worry about asking us questions we enjoy spending you money from a distance;)

 

Thanks patch got the exhaust fixed, and it isn't leaking at all anywhere. But it just did something it has never done. Was going up to the store about 5 miles away halfway there the temp gauge hadn't left the very bottom then all of a sudden it started climb all the way to the top quickly. So I stopped and the radiator was steaming a bit for a few seconds. What I've done so far is fix the hose, flush the rad and change the tstat. Would a water pump cause that to happen? or could it be something more serious?

[SpencerPJ]

I seriously doubt if it's more serious. It's either the thermostat won't open, defective, installed backwards, wrong one, or the water pump finally gave out. I personally would start with removing the thermostat like you did before and see what happens. Do you have the coolant petcock turned the right way? You'll be a pro at this soon...

[Venture Capitalist]

I seriously doubt if it's more serious. It's either the thermostat won't open, defective, installed backwards, wrong one, or the water pump finally gave out. I personally would start with removing the thermostat like you did before and see what happens. Do you have the coolant petcock turned the right way? You'll be a pro at this soon...

 

I didn't think you could install it backwards. I'm pretty sure the petcock is the right way. The one on my bike is really chewed up, someone must have tried to turn it without loosening the lock screw. I have been setting it as ON being with the writing upwards with the end of the end of words facing 2 oclock. And OFF the writing is upside down with the start of the words facing 2 oclock. The tstat I got was the exact size. I dropped it in with the spring end down

[Patch]

I didn't think you could install it backwards. I'm pretty sure the petcock is the right way. The one on my bike is really chewed up, someone must have tried to turn it without loosening the lock screw. I have been setting it as ON being with the writing upwards with the end of the end of words facing 2 oclock. And OFF the writing is upside down with the start of the words facing 2 oclock. The tstat I got was the exact size. I dropped it in with the spring end down

 

 

"Thanks patch got the exhaust fixed, and it isn't leaking at all anywhere. But it just did something it has never done.

Was going up to the store about 5 miles away halfway there the temp gauge hadn't left the very bottom then all of a sudden it started climb all the way to the top quickly. "

OK we'll start here: the thermo switch is an inline a unit (at least in my manual) when the engine heats up the flow from the pump drive the hot fluid to the rad and past the switch which is in fact a resistor which alows for more curent to flow thru and feed the meter. If as you say the meter was disturbed then there remains a problem to address? perhaps

So I stopped and the radiator was steaming a bit for a few seconds. ​The rad was still cold as in your mild winter cold, so as it warmed it may have just melted some ice that had accumulated from condensation? Then as it evapped the steam you saw diapered! likely

If the engine is overheating then the rad will boil over and the engine will ping like that of a car with loss of power.

"What I've done so far is fix the hose, flush the rad and change the tstat. Would a water pump cause that to happen? or could it be something more serious? " Yes the pump will cause over heating issues.

 

Now important to run the correct 50/50 mix or slush will result on the rad, the sudden input of hot coolant transfer will cause a thermo shock and the rad can split.

The bypass sounds like you need to verify it is in the correct position, take a look at how it made or shows in the book, mine show OFF not onand there is an alignment mark at 2 o'clock. It needs to allow a constant flow this help control the thermo cycling by maintain a closer consistent combustion temperature near the combustion chambers. In other words we don't want the combustion chamber mass to keep cycling thru ups and downs!

[Venture Capitalist]

"Thanks patch got the exhaust fixed, and it isn't leaking at all anywhere. But it just did something it has never done.

Was going up to the store about 5 miles away halfway there the temp gauge hadn't left the very bottom then all of a sudden it started climb all the way to the top quickly. "

OK we'll start here: the thermo switch is an inline a unit (at least in my manual) when the engine heats up the flow from the pump drive the hot fluid to the rad and past the switch which is in fact a resistor which alows for more curent to flow thru and feed the meter. If as you say the meter was disturbed then there remains a problem to address? perhaps

So I stopped and the radiator was steaming a bit for a few seconds. ​The rad was still cold as in your mild winter cold, so as it warmed it may have just melted some ice that had accumulated from condensation? Then as it evapped the steam you saw diapered! likely

If the engine is overheating then the rad will boil over and the engine will ping like that of a car with loss of power.

"What I've done so far is fix the hose, flush the rad and change the tstat. Would a water pump cause that to happen? or could it be something more serious? " Yes the pump will cause over heating issues.

 

Now important to run the correct 50/50 mix or slush will result on the rad, the sudden input of hot coolant transfer will cause a thermo shock and the rad can split.

The bypass sounds like you need to verify it is in the correct position, take a look at how it made or shows in the book, mine show OFF not onand there is an alignment mark at 2 o'clock. It needs to allow a constant flow this help control the thermo cycling by maintain a closer consistent combustion temperature near the combustion chambers. In other words we don't want the combustion chamber mass to keep cycling thru ups and downs!

 

Ok, I've checked and triple checked the alignment on the drain valve and yes I have been running it with it in the off position which the book says. The tstat does go in the the large spring end facing the ground correct ? I'm not 100% sure but pretty close that's the way I took the old one out. You know how when you check a car to see if the water pump is working you can just start it with the rad cap off and when it heats up see if the water starts circulating. I suppose the same should be true for a bike? I was look at the manual on water pump disassembly. It says to take off the gear and the impeller shaft and remove all the deposits. I could go that far do you think that might help? I don't have one of those circlip tools but you can use a screwdriver can't you? I would want to go as far as the book on disassembly talks about, into the seals and everything, the seals are probably good anyway, I don't have any oil in my water or any water in my oil and no leaks anywhere

[SpencerPJ]

You seem correct in all your assumptions. I personally have never had any of this apart on my bike, so I certainly don't want to give bad advise. Seems the first and easiest check is to take out the TStat and take it for a drive. Seems when you put the new one in is when your new issue began ???

[Patch]

Ok, I've checked and triple checked the alignment on the drain valve and yes I have been running it with it in the off position which the book says. The tstat does go in the the large spring end facing the ground correct ? I'm not 100% sure but pretty close that's the way I took the old one out. You know how when you check a car to see if the water pump is working you can just start it with the rad cap off and when it heats up see if the water starts circulating. I suppose the same should be true for a bike? I was look at the manual on water pump disassembly. It says to take off the gear and the impeller shaft and remove all the deposits. I could go that far do you think that might help? I don't have one of those circlip tools but you can use a screwdriver can't you? I would want to go as far as the book on disassembly talks about, into the seals and everything, the seals are probably good anyway, I don't have any oil in my water or any water in my oil and no leaks anywhere

 

As You see I've done a bit of cold weather riding over the years;)

 

If you have already used a rad flush then the deposits should be gone.

 

Yes the spring points down.

 

At the moment and from this distance I am not certain that the Tstat is bad, but you could do as Spence mentioned run it without, leaving the bypass alone.

 

Again from here, we are trying to accept that 2 heat coils are failing, one on the rad and the other on the new Tstat? Cause if the stat is failing then you will have a boil over at the expansion tank, right?!

 

And I don't know if I trust the reading of the gauge at this point after you mentioned you had an issue?

 

Make sense? What cha think?

[Venture Capitalist]

yep I think i'll got take it out and give it a try, thanks spencer. my temp gauge does work patch it's just that when I took the speedo apart to grease the cable I put the needle onto the spindle in a little lower position so I didn't go as high but it had never just shot up all at once like that. Is that your Suzuki, looks kinda like a venture. is that cold weather that's causing that steam or a blown head gasket?

[Patch]

No man, that just cold weather up in Northern Ontario, where the Bear rent motel room to stay warm;)

[flyday58]

Just a thought, but I've seen my Venture do this low-temp/blast off thing after mucking around with hoses and t-stats. Mine was an air pocket that once it burped out, all I had to do was top off the antifreeze and all was good.

Fun reading, lots of gained knowledge for you in a short time. Cheers.

[Patch]

Just a thought, but I've seen my Venture do this low-temp/blast off thing after mucking around with hoses and t-stats. Mine was an air pocket that once it burped out, all I had to do was top off the antifreeze and all was good.

Fun reading, lots of gained knowledge for you in a short time. Cheers.

 

 

Yes sir you are correct and I did forget to mention that.

50/50 will boil at 223* but under 15 lbs it will be closer to 268* (3* per pound)

The combustion heat is above 1000* but, is not just a local area- as much of it is conducted thru piston then oil cooling, valves then mass sink. So, the coolant can jump several degrees around the top combustion area and an air pocket will super conduct and cause an additional expansion pressure increasing the size of the pocket (the quirk being air is compressible fluid not): the pump will continue to push the pocket at a slower rate as the fluid under pressure will follow the basic laws of ( pressure wants to remain equal and volume wants to maintain) which will for a time stall/trap the pocket movement. Hmm go figure;)

[flyday58]

Yes sir you are correct and I did forget to mention that.

50/50 will boil at 223* but under 15 lbs it will be closer to 268* (3* per pound)

The combustion heat is above 1000* but, is not just a local area- as much of it is conducted thru piston then oil cooling, valves then mass sink. So, the coolant can jump several degrees around the top combustion area and an air pocket will super conduct and cause an additional expansion pressure increasing the size of the pocket (the quirk being air is compressible fluid not): the pump will continue to push the pocket at a slower rate as the fluid under pressure will follow the basic laws of ( pressure wants to remain equal and volume wants to maintain) which will for a time stall/trap the pocket movement. Hmm go figure;)

Great explanation!

[Venture Capitalist]

well, I was about to just go take the new tstat out and see what happened, but before I did I thought of putting the old one in a pan of boiling water and it opened up and closed when I took it 3 times so I put that back in. I didn't ride it just fired it up and watched the gauge and it came up nice and slowly like it used to. So what could have caused the hose to bust in the first place? While I was watching the temp needle I kept checking to see if the fan had kicked on but it never did. I let it get to about halfway between the halfway mark and the red. Should it have come on by then? At least now it's back to how it was before I blew the hose.

[Patch]

Great explanation!

 

 

Thank you but, you all know Puc pulled me out of my shell so ... thanks buddy for pushing me to share more more often...

 

V.C. sometimes we just need to step back and figure where we assumed too much! I know I've had to many times and, after 10s of K$ spent ,,,so that is all a part of the sport!

Edited February 19, 2020 by Patch