coolant blowout

[Venture Capitalist]

Sounds to me like you pulled the hose nipple from the casing and it is still in the hose? Pictures would help.. If hose connectors are not threaded and screwed in place, IMHO, it is not uncommon for them to be "smudge" fit and fairly easily removed when tugging on hoses.. The simple fix is to take a knife and slice the old hose (unless you are going to reuse hose - in your case you are replacing with new) to remove nipple.. Clean nipple and area in case where nipple was removed. Smear a light coat of YamaBond 5 or other sealant to area on nipple that will meet the wall of the case opening. Start nipple into hole by pushing down on nipple with finger being careful to not get it crooked.. Tap the nipple till you feel it bottom out with a plastic hammer - be careful not to damage it - use finess.. The smudge fit is common in places like carb, petcock and case fittings and as amazing and hard to believe as this sounds,, I have replaced many of them back into thier homes and never had a problem with them leaking and actually very seldom use a sealer when replacing em.. Does any of this make sense:fingers-crossed-emo

 

I check the links and those are the same as my local Yamaha parts store has. the hose ended up being one they don't have and can't order. it is shown in the diagram but there is no price or place to check to order either. in the pic that is one very thin metal piece and that side doesn't look like it every had any threads. haven't look down in the hole yet, going to do that after I get back from auto parts store with a hose. hopefully someone can figure out what to do then. if that is what you call a smudge nipple in the pic, can I buy a new one of those?

[cowpuc]

ok trying to send a pichttps://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=118389

 

Pic came out fine Cap!! Definitely a smudge fit but DEFINITELY not gonna be able to reuse IMHO.. Looks in pretty rough shape.. Alternatives that I can see would be:

- Replace what ever part the nipple came out of.. (EXPENSIVE AND TIME CONSUMING)ni

- Find a parts bike and carefully remove nipple- install in your scoot (I am fairly confident that the nipple has never been available seperated from its mounting area).

- Measure the I.D. of the hole where the nip came from. Pick up a pipe tap of the size you measured and a replacement nipple that is threaded from a hardware/lumberyard store.. Get copper replacement.. Carefully tap the area using grease on the tap to collect shavings as you tap it out.. Make sense?

 

A couple pics of the area where the nipple went in and surrounding area would be awesome and helpful in making good suggestions..

[Venture Capitalist]

a picture of wherre it connects to the head is needed.

ok here it is

[SpencerPJ]

Ya, I thought that's what happened after just looking at mine. Maybe one of our great members will see this thread over the weekend and have the part you need. You could try this place called Pinwall on ebay, they often have lots of our bike parts. Patch and Cowpuc might have great ideas too.

[Patch]

My first thought was like Puc suggested which would work but you would need to flush even if you pack the pre tap.

Very doable.

 

But also with a caliper you could take a solid measure then a trip to the local parts store look for a valve cover breather, a touch bigger freeze it and insert it after prepping the port.

 

I would still look thru the coolant system tho and check that pomp out before it fails you on a trip. Then I would flush the system with a descaler and add a can of stop leak.

 

In the late 70s & 80s this was a common practice for all aluminium engines and worked well.

[Venture Capitalist]

Pic came out fine Cap!! Definitely a smudge fit but DEFINITELY not gonna be able to reuse IMHO.. Looks in pretty rough shape.. Alternatives that I can see would be:

- Replace what ever part the nipple came out of.. (EXPENSIVE AND TIME CONSUMING)ni

- Find a parts bike and carefully remove nipple- install in your scoot (I am fairly confident that the nipple has never been available seperated from its mounting area).

- Measure the I.D. of the hole where the nip came from. Pick up a pipe tap of the size you measured and a replacement nipple that is threaded from a hardware/lumberyard store.. Get copper replacement.. Carefully tap the area using grease on the tap to collect shavings as you tap it out.. Make sense?

 

A couple pics of the area where the nipple went in and surrounding area would be awesome and helpful in making good suggestions..

yah, I think the tap sounds like the way to go, so i'm off to the hardware store. i'm sure glad you mentioned the grease on the tap, I would have never thought of that. I had to tap the drain bolt in the oil pan of my van cause I striped it. Wish I would have know about that grease trick then. I ended up flushing the oil twice just to be safe cause I knew there would be some shavings in it. That little trick would have saved me some cash on oil. Want to thank you and everyone on here for the help. Hopefully my next post will be "Got er goin" oh yah one other thing. After I get it put back together and flush it, Can I run it without a tstat like you can a car for a couple of weeks. They wanted 60 bucks for the tstat and don't get paid for a couple weeks

[Jayceesfolly]

Do a search on this forum for thermostat cross reference and buy a t-stat from NAPA or whatever auto parts store you use. I replaced my t-stat and used an auto unit and it only cost me a few bucks. Been working fine for three years.

 

Checked my old notes and came up with: NAPA #156 and Stant #13758 .

 

Jim

Edited February 8, 2020 by Jayceesfolly

[SpencerPJ]

If it were me, I'd try and tap and replace the broken nipple, replace the hose, and give it a whirl. That hose / fitting was probably your source of antifreeze loss over the past months. (I can't believe you didn't smell it). These bikes generally run right at the red mark, so unless it's going over, your water pump and thermostat might be working just fine. You take the thermostat apart, you will probably need to replace the oring. Personally I would not run without a thermostat, but I do not know if there would be harm. Good luck with your tap, keep us posted.

[Venture Capitalist]

If it were me, I'd try and tap and replace the broken nipple, replace the hose, and give it a whirl. That hose / fitting was probably your source of antifreeze loss over the past months. (I can't believe you didn't smell it). These bikes generally run right at the red mark, so unless it's going over, your water pump and thermostat might be working just fine. You take the thermostat apart, you will probably need to replace the oring. Personally I would not run without a thermostat, but I do not know if there would be harm. Good luck with your tap, keep us posted.

 

i'm getting there, spent the last two days running all over town getting a proper tap and copper sleeve. Just now got the new hose put on, still have to bolt the rear frame back up then i'll tackle the tstat tomorrow. That will be great if I can get one at napa. Taps were 27 buck at ace and I bought two of them. The unused one I can take back though it was too big

[Patch]

Take pics or you'll be in the muthouse.

[Venture Capitalist]

Do a search on this forum for thermostat cross reference and buy a t-stat from NAPA or whatever auto parts store you use. I replaced my t-stat and used an auto unit and it only cost me a few bucks. Been working fine for three years.

 

 

 

Jim

 

Thanks for checking that for me. I'll give it a shot at napa. That is where I ended up getting the hose, they even had one with almost the exact same bend in it.

[Venture Capitalist]

Take pics or you'll be in the muthouse.

 

don't want to be in the mutthouse, everyone on here has been totally cool and helpful. in fact when the trail is over definitely going to join. don't have a lot of money but that membership is so cheap anyone can afford that.

[Jayceesfolly]

Also, get a new o-ring for t-stat cover. They are usually old and brittle. You can take it to Lowe's or Home Depot and match it. Much cheaper than ordering thru Mama Yama.

 

 

Jim

[Venture Capitalist]

Also, get a new o-ring for t-stat cover. They are usually old and brittle. You can take it to Lowe's or Home Depot and match it. Much cheaper than ordering thru Mama Yama.

 

 

Jim

 

About to get started on the tstat. Last couple days driving all around town getting parts was rough on my van. need to change a rod in that this summer started knock pretty bad. so anyway after reading the manual, tell me if I am getting this right it looks like I can run it with the coolant petcock in the on position and just bypass the tstat.

[Patch]

Wow I think my meds are corrupting my thoughts?

Here's how the email notice looks:

 

"---Quote (Originally by Jayceesfolly)---

Also, get a new o-ring for t-stat cover. They are usually old and brittle. You can take it to Lowe's or Home Depot and match it. Much cheaper than ordering thru Mama Yama.

 

 

Jim

---End Quote---

About to get started on the tstat. Last couple days driving all around town getting parts was rough on my van. need to change a rod in that this summer started knock pretty bad. so anyway after reading the manual, tell me if I am getting this right it looks like I can run it with the coolant petcock in the on position and just bypass the tstat."

 

Now if I'm being honest about my train of thoughts then Yama Mama in her leathers interrupted my honest natural logical problem solving ways and; my answer would have to be: No! The o-ring would lead to frustration and the T-stat would get suck in the closed position causing an over heating condition, which most likely would cause another ruptured hose and; a stroke plus, a serve knock after heat exhausting and then a collapse of the cardiovascular internals, pretty sure anyways?

 

Be careful

[Venture Capitalist]

Wow I think my meds are corrupting my thoughts?

Here's how the email notice looks:

 

"---Quote (Originally by Jayceesfolly)---

Also, get a new o-ring for t-stat cover. They are usually old and brittle. You can take it to Lowe's or Home Depot and match it. Much cheaper than ordering thru Mama Yama.

 

 

Jim

---End Quote---

About to get started on the tstat. Last couple days driving all around town getting parts was rough on my van. need to change a rod in that this summer started knock pretty bad. so anyway after reading the manual, tell me if I am getting this right it looks like I can run it with the coolant petcock in the on position and just bypass the tstat."

 

Now if I'm being honest about my train of thoughts then Yama Mama in her leathers interrupted my honest natural logical problem solving ways and; my answer would have to be: No! The o-ring would lead to frustration and the T-stat would get suck in the closed position causing an over heating condition, which most likely would cause another ruptured hose and; a stroke plus, a serve knock after heat exhausting and then a collapse of the cardiovascular internals, pretty sure anyways?

 

Be careful

 

I think we are on the same page. I'm thinking the tstat being stuck, is probably what caused the hose to blow in the first place so I need to get a new one? Did you read that clip from the manual. Does that tell me that I could safely run it up to napa to get a new one with the petcock in the on position?

[Patch]

I think we are on the same page. I'm thinking the tstat being stuck, is probably what caused the hose to blow in the first place so I need to get a new one? Did you read that clip from the manual. Does that tell me that I could safely run it up to napa to get a new one with the petcock in the on position?

 

 

Yes you can assemble the complete system to a factory design closed unit. Just keep the Tstat out of the loop and run it as tho it was there for a short period of time, as you mentioned! Don't take in heavy traffic cause the rad won't have time to cool the flow as it will continue to circulate!

 

As for the bit about Yama Mama,,,, well lets just say no we are not on the same page but you are new here and haven't been exposed to Mama's taunts, yet;)

[Venture Capitalist]

Yes you can assemble the complete system to a factory design closed unit. Just keep the Tstat out of the loop and run it as tho it was there for a short period of time, as you mentioned! Don't take in heavy traffic cause the rad won't have time to cool the flow as it will continue to circulate!

 

As for the bit about Yama Mama,,,, well lets just say no we are not on the same page but you are new here and haven't been exposed to Mama's taunts, yet;)

 

lol ok not sure if I want to be exposed to Mama's taunts yet

[Patch]

So as to make sure you understand the petcock must be in the close position, otherwise the system will continue to drain out!

 

So you effect the repairs. the system has integrity (able to loop without leaks) which will cool the heads and cylinders; however and for a short time, the rad will not be able to cool the fluid efficiently as the time needed to do so is, provided by the thermostat!

 

If there was no even flow then you would warp the heads, stretch the timing chain, fry the rings, coke the journals, and the engine will knock.

[Venture Capitalist]

So as to make sure you understand the petcock must be in the close position, otherwise the system will continue to drain out!

 

So you effect the repairs. the system has integrity (able to loop without leaks) which will cool the heads and cylinders; however and for a short time, the rad will not be able to cool the fluid efficiently as the time needed to do so is, provided by the thermostat!

 

If there was no even flow then you would warp the heads, stretch the timing chain, fry the rings, coke the journals, and the engine will knock.

 

ok yah got it running yesterday. went to the bank and from there was on the way to napa and felt the water leaking a bit on my leg so I stopped refilled it and came home. it was coming from the hose I installed because the hose clamp wasn't tight enough I guess. it is in such a cockeyed position only way for me to turn it is with needle nose. anyway during that ride it was running cooler that it ever has with the petcock in the on position bypassing the tstat. Let me get this straight. once I make sure the leak is 100% gone, it will be ok to ride it up to napa and back with it in the on position right.

 

I also want to say thanks to everyone who helped with their advice to get this accomplished. By the way isn't there a way to post on this thread without having to click reply with quotes?

 

And to keep me out of the mutthouse with jaycees I just took a couple pics of the ol girl

[Patch]

ok yah got it running yesterday. went to the bank and from there was on the way to napa and felt the water leaking a bit on my leg so I stopped refilled it and came home. it was coming from the hose I installed because the hose clamp wasn't tight enough I guess. it is in such a cockeyed position only way for me to turn it is with needle nose. anyway during that ride it was running cooler that it ever has with the petcock in the on position bypassing the tstat. Let me get this straight. once I make sure the leak is 100% gone, it will be ok to ride it up to napa and back with it in the on position right.

 

I also want to say thanks to everyone who helped with their advice to get this accomplished. By the way isn't there a way to post on this thread without having to click reply with quotes?

 

And to keep me out of the mutthouse with jaycees I just took a couple pics of the ol girl

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=118404https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=118405

 

 

Calling for a full stop at this moment!

 

 

 

 

 

The above is not a trick sequence; it is Japaneses translated to English!

 

If you open the cock then you are in drain mode.. As I mentioned you must make the systm close as tho it is in a constant loope powered by the water pump! Which the means the water pump does not interfere!

 

Fix the know problems then operate the unit as tho it is complete and a close system without the Tstast!

 

No leaks and the pump circulates the fluid thru the complete engine!

The reading is not acurate as the system is not flowing correctly at this moment, as you describe!

 

You run the risk of over heating the heads so stop!

 

When the system is in a loop there is no air and it is completing its complete run!

The only thing is that the Tstast is missing so the rad while part of the loop can not cool the fluid, because it does not stall in the rad! It continues to travel thru rather than stand still and get cooled!

 

So fill and tighten the system, then try the part number posted and away you go!

 

 

For posting without quoting just look for the Reply To Thread blue button at the top or end of each thread;) No Worries Bro we'd like you stick around..K

 

and bring your friends cause we don't care what you ride we care how you ride!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That means the valve is in running mode not in drain mode!

[SpencerPJ]

Congrats on your progress, nice looking bike. Yes, on my computer, one option is 'reply with quote', another option is simply, 'reply to thread'.

[Patch]

"Which the means the water pump does not interfere!"

 

That should read Tstat not pump, sorry!

[Venture Capitalist]

Congrats on your progress, nice looking bike. Yes, on my computer, one option is 'reply with quote', another option is simply, 'reply to thread'.

 

Yours looks pretty much the same you just don't have the saddlebags on it. With my van running the way it is have to keep mine on, I always end up carrying things. Going to go out there now and finish up. Thought it was leaking because I didn't have my hose clamp tight enough but it is actually coming up from the sleeve I put in there. I tap about 10 threads but when I put the sleeve in was so worried about going to far and stripping it probably only went in about 3 or 4 of them. now i'm going to mark just how far the tap goes then put a mark on the sleeve should have done that in the first place.

[Patch]

Yours looks pretty much the same you just don't have the saddlebags on it. With my van running the way it is have to keep mine on, I always end up carrying things. Going to go out there now and finish up. Thought it was leaking because I didn't have my hose clamp tight enough but it is actually coming up from the sleeve I put in there. I tap about 10 threads but when I put the sleeve in was so worried about going to far and stripping it probably only went in about 3 or 4 of them. now i'm going to mark just how far the tap goes then put a mark on the sleeve should have done that in the first place.

 

I'd use pipe dope or Teflon tape