Propane tank ?

[tufftom4]

I am replaceing the shut off valve in the propane tank in the motorhome and I need to know what to use because I know there is chemical reactions between certain things, can I use just regular teflon tape?

[SpencerPJ]

I'd probably use the yellow teflon tape that is for gas applications.

[cecdoo]

I know they make a special teflon tape for gas lines, its grey and heavier then reg. teflon tape. Mite check an RV forum for more info.

 

Good Luck, Craig

[uncledj]

For something like that, I'd use a hardening dope, such as Leak lock, Gasoila or the like. I only use teflon when I'm trying to fill in voids on poor threads.

[saddlebum]

Up here the gas compatible tape is salmon coloured but having said that I would use one of the thread pastes that clearly state that it is compatible with propane and other gases. It will usually state it on the label. and will often have a UL approval label on it.

[slowrollwv]

When I need to replace a tank or valve I take it to a convenience store and exchange it. They get the old tank and I get a new tank for about the same price as a refill.

[djh3]

When I need to replace a tank or valve I take it to a convenience store and exchange it. They get the old tank and I get a new tank for about the same price as a refill.

Think he talking about a valve or something in line. Not necessarily a tank.

[slowrollwv]

Think he talking about a valve or something in line. Not necessarily a tank.

 

My bad, missed it was in the motorhome.

[Flyinfool]

As mentioned use the Teflon tape or thread paste made for gas. It is more than just a color difference.

[RDawson]

Use the right sealer for gas, I've seen the aftermath of a few gas leaks. We've had two houses explode around here from propane leaks and one dorm have the whole end blown out of two floors from a natural gas leak in the basement. The dorm blew bricks through the walls of another dorm 100yds away and through windows a lot further. Aaaand after all that I'm still one of the idiots going up to check on buildings that may have a leak.

[saddlebum]

Use the right sealer for gas, I've seen the aftermath of a few gas leaks. We've had two houses explode around here from propane leaks and one dorm have the whole end blown out of two floors from a natural gas leak in the basement. The dorm blew bricks through the walls of another dorm 100yds away and through windows a lot further. Aaaand after all that I'm still one of the idiots going up to check on buildings that may have a leak.

And this is why I prefer to use an appropriately approved paste over tape whether approved or not. paste will creep, cling and fill the tiniest cavity or pore were tape can shift. Just makes me feel that much more comfortable. Either way make sure when you apply it that you don't put anything on the 1st couple threads so that nothing enters the gas line or valve that could cause an obstruction later on. I have seen people put too much on and then wonder why a valve or regulator suddenly fails to function properly.

[uncledj]

And this is why I prefer to use an appropriately approved paste over tape whether approved or not. paste will creep, cling and fill the tiniest cavity or pore were tape can shift. Just makes me feel that much more comfortable. Either way make sure when you apply it that you don't put anything on the 1st couple threads so that nothing enters the gas line or valve that could cause an obstruction later on. I have seen people put too much on and then wonder why a valve or regulator suddenly fails to function properly.

True, True, True,......BUT....

When dealing with compressed air / nitrogen / CO2 / propane or anything that will have actual pressure against it, (as compared to regulated gasses), I do like to put sealant right up to the end of the male thread, and in many cases, a light film on the female thread so that it'll build up a bead at the face of the nipple. I don't want to see a bunch of dope that'll break away and obstruct, but just a bit to create a bead. This is where it's important to use a hardening pipe dope.

Anyhoo,...that's what's worked well for me over my 30+ years as a HVAC Tech....as a BTJ with the Plumbers & Fitters. Sealing a low pressure gas line is easy, but getting a joint exposed to potentially 400+psi to seal is a bit harder.

Not sure what that propane tank is likely to produce, but I'd guess around 100+ psi on a hot day. Easy to figger out with a quick web search.

[RDawson]

True, True, True,......BUT....

When dealing with compressed air / nitrogen / CO2 / propane or anything that will have actual pressure against it, (as compared to regulated gasses), I do like to put sealant right up to the end of the male thread, and in many cases, a light film on the female thread so that it'll build up a bead at the face of the nipple. I don't want to see a bunch of dope that'll break away and obstruct, but just a bit to create a bead. This is where it's important to use a hardening pipe dope.

Anyhoo,...that's what's worked well for me over my 30+ years as a HVAC Tech....as a BTJ with the Plumbers & Fitters. Sealing a low pressure gas line is easy, but getting a joint exposed to potentially 400+psi to seal is a bit harder.

Not sure what that propane tank is likely to produce, but I'd guess around 100+ psi on a hot day. Easy to figger out with a quick web search.

 

According to the ole google machine propane is 177 psi at 100* to maintain its liquid form. Upwards of 200 in the heat. That must accurate since I found it on the internet.