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Posted

What works well is a 3/16" cabinet tipped screwdriver.

 

I made my own by grinding the sides off the tip of a 3/16" round shaft screwdriver I got at the hardware store.

Posted
Like this but I'll have to shave the sides down?

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kle-601-6?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkvaYjL7x5QIViZWzCh0NFAPTEAUYBSABEgJdxPD_BwE

 

there is t a screwdriver I can buy that works perfect out of the package?

 

That Klein screwdriver you linked to is what Carl is recommending. He made a 3/16" cabinet tip screwdriver from an ordinary "flared" tip screwdriver by grinding off the "flare".

There will be no grinding involved if you buy a CABINET tip screwdriver. You are not to be working the screwdriver very hard, so a cheap cabinet tip 'driver will suffice.

An example of a 3/16" Cabinet tip driver:

41065.jpg Compare it to a "flared" 3/16" driver: image_20987.jpg The flared tip will not enter the pilot screw recess, (too wide).

31Szsm99E1L.jpg

Posted

Thanks guys,

 

bprrowed the correct screwdriver and got 3 of the needles out.

 

4th one is stripped thanks to a previous owner so its goin to stay in there.

 

Cleaning this all and witing for a few parts to come in the mail and its going back on the bike.

Posted

I made a pilot screw "adjuster" that allowed me to make adjustments to the air/fuel mix while the Venture is nearly fully "dressed" (i.e. with the fairing lowers on the bike, but with the side covers removed. One cannot access the pilot screws with a conventional screwdriver when the lowers are installed).

 

pilot screw adjuster, Venture .jpg

Posted

Went tool shipping yesterday with an a/f mix screw in hand and picked this guy up.

 

JET brand model 720813 works perfect (it wasnt cheap)

IMG_3484.jpg

IMG_3486.jpg

IMG_3487.jpg

Posted
You are not to be working the screwdriver very hard, so a cheap cabinet tip 'driver will suffice.

e).

 

Two of the 8 carbs I been working on the a/f screw was completely seized. One I got out but another the head of the screw stripped and it's stuck in there forever I guess, never to be adjusted again unless I tackle it with an easy out.

 

For this reason it's important to me that the tip of the blade fits into the slot on the screw dead on with little or no play. That way when you twist on the driver, the whole blade is making contact with the whole slot on the screw, minimizing your risk of stripping the head.

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