talonsx2 Posted May 9, 2008 #1 Posted May 9, 2008 Hello to all, I have a few questions for anyone who can help. 1984 VR 1. How do you get the push rod, ball, and large push rod out of the center of the clutch boss? 2. How much free play (Rotational) should there be with the clutch boss (Housing?) itself? I have about 2 inches before it catches. Thanks in advance. MIKE
Squeeze Posted May 9, 2008 #2 Posted May 9, 2008 (edited) 1. Pull the small PushRod out of the Axle, you might wiggle a bit, because there's a O-Ring on that. Then place a small Tube inside the Axle and use a MightyVac aor something else to produce some Vacuum and pull the Ball out, then again pull the long Rod out. Watch out for the Ends on the long Rod. These are different and the the more flatter Side has to get against the Ball. 2. I don't understand. There should be no Free Play in any mechanical Connections. I have about 2 inches before it catches. What does "it" refer to ? Edited May 9, 2008 by Squeeze
Condor Posted May 9, 2008 #3 Posted May 9, 2008 Hello to all, I have a few questions for anyone who can help. 1984 VR 1. How do you get the push rod, ball, and large push rod out of the center of the clutch boss? 2. How much free play (Rotational) should there be with the clutch boss (Housing?) itself? I have about 2 inches before it catches. Thanks in advance MIKE I usually get the long rod and the ball out when the slave is removed, but.... I've been thinking.... they make a narrow tipped magnetic nut retreiver about the size of an eraser head that should work at getting the ball and long rod out from basket side. The rod and ball are steel and the engine casing is non-magnetic aluminum. I've never tried it yet, but fishing it out with the retreiver might work.??? On the rotation issue, we could use a little more info. Is everything buttoned up and ready to go or is the pressure plate still off??? Or???
Squeeze Posted May 9, 2008 #4 Posted May 9, 2008 ...The rod and ball are steel and the engine casing is non-magnetic aluminum. ... I never tried the magnet Thing either, but the Drive Shaft(inbound Tranny Axle) through which the Rods go, is definitely Steel.
talonsx2 Posted May 9, 2008 Author #5 Posted May 9, 2008 I will try the magnet, I have one and didnt think of that. Thsnks. The friction plates and pressure plate is off the bike and the cage that the friction plates go onto (Clutch Boss?) has the excessive rotation (Manually) before it grabs. Thanks again.
Condor Posted May 9, 2008 #6 Posted May 9, 2008 The friction plates and pressure plate is off the bike and the cage that the friction plates go onto (Clutch Boss?) has the excessive rotation (Manually) before it grabs. Thanks again. What I imagine is the boss sitting in the clutch housing with everything else removed. Is the transmission in neutral? If it is, put it into first and see if the boss still moves. If it does, you'll need to pull the boss and inspect the drive and driven gears on the backside for wear. Hope this helps.
Squeeze Posted May 9, 2008 #7 Posted May 9, 2008 Now i understand ... The Lash depends on what Gear is selected. But basically this sound not bad. The Lash comes from the Dogs of the Gears.
talonsx2 Posted May 10, 2008 Author #8 Posted May 10, 2008 The magnet worked great. thanks. I will see if its in gear in the morning. do you know what size the nut is that holds the basket in? the book says its a 32mm but I have a 29mm that doesnt fit and a 30 mm that has a little play in it.
Condor Posted May 10, 2008 #9 Posted May 10, 2008 The magnet worked great. thanks. I will see if its in gear in the morning. do you know what size the nut is that holds the basket in? the book says its a 32mm but I have a 29mm that doesnt fit and a 30 mm that has a little play in it. I think it's the 30mm that I used. Glad to know the magnet worked..... I'll try it the next time around... Remember when you go to put the rods and ball back in, the rods have one end that is slightly flattened. That end goes against the ball.....
Dano Posted May 10, 2008 #10 Posted May 10, 2008 The 30mm is for the clutch boss nut, the 32mm is for the crankshaft nut under the left cover. I agree with Squeeze, if you broke the clutch boss nut loose without something holding the clutch boss itself, then it is in gear and it will have some back and forth play. The shaft that the pushrod is going through is actually the drive axle, so it is steel. Glad to hear of the magnet trick, in case in 15 years or so I need a new o-ring on there! When you rotate it back and forth, is the total travel in one direction 2"? Depending on what gear it's in, total lash back to the rear wheel could be that much. Dan
talonsx2 Posted May 15, 2008 Author #11 Posted May 15, 2008 So I tried to install the upgraded barnett and this could be a long one. took the clutch apart last week and wiated for the new barnett to arrive. Put everything back together and I thought all was well until I tried to put the bike in gear? The handle wont pull in?? I think blead the clutch to no avail.??? came to the compoter to check the web site and discover that for some reason I pulled a total of 8 friction plates out of the bike and replaced them with the same amount???? I have found in the numerous posts that there are only 6 notched and 1 UNnotched so why did my bike have 8? I took the new barnett out and put in the original pressure plate back in which worked but I cant shift into or out of gear, I can operate the clutch handle though?? The only thing that I can see different with the two pressure plates is the cap in the center of the pressure plate, the old plate has the cap but the barnett does not. Will work more on the bike this weekend. Sorry I havent posted the pics yet of the clutch hanging. cant figure my computer out?? :225:MIKE
Dano Posted May 15, 2008 #12 Posted May 15, 2008 The cap needs to be in there, I believe, that's what the rod pushes against. If there is a difference in depth (lay them side by side and do a comparison), I would say the cap needs to be relocated. You could check with Barnett and see what they say.
lonestarmedic Posted May 15, 2008 #13 Posted May 15, 2008 It is possible that the clutch has had the PCW Racing modification. It consists of removing the last metal spacer in the bottom and replacing it with an extra friction disc. Then there is a stronger diaphragm spring installed in place of the stock unit. I hope to pull my clutch down soon and do the above modification. I am just waiting for the rebuild kits and the gasket. If you still have problems, I can take pictures before and after when I rebuild my clutch basket. JB
talonsx2 Posted May 15, 2008 Author #14 Posted May 15, 2008 The cap is on the old pressure plate but it comes off with it as well. The barnett doesn't have the cap on it and as far as I can tell I cant remove the old cap and put it on the new pressure plate? anyone have Barnetts #? Thanks for the input. will keep you posted. :225:MIKE
Condor Posted May 15, 2008 #15 Posted May 15, 2008 I don't know if you've looked at this write up we did on hdhtr's clutch, but it might give you a few ideas. Also pull the plate off and very gently pull back on the grip lever while keeping you finger over the push rods. If you can feel movement, the problem is in the basket, not the slave and back.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now