Electrical issue

[mralex714]

I have an 89 VR that hasn't been ridden in a few years, but I do start it at least once a week. Last week I started it with no problem. I went to start it yesterday and it wouldn't crank. The fuel pump clicked, All the lights come on,and the kill switch is in the run position, the radio works the hazards work, but not the turn signals , the horn doesn't work and the brake light doesn't work. The battery is less than 2 months old. I think that's all the details I can think of, any thoughts on what happened in the few days since I last started it?

[videoarizona]

I have an 89 VR that hasn't been ridden in a few years, but I do start it at least once a week. Last week I started it with no problem. I went to start it yesterday and it wouldn't crank. The fuel pump clicked, All the lights come on,and the kill switch is in the run position, the radio works the hazards work, but not the turn signals , the horn doesn't work and the brake light doesn't work. The battery is less than 2 months old. I think that's all the details I can think of, any thoughts on what happened in the few days since I last started it?

 

The battery, despite being new, is the #1 suspect. Either dead cell or loose cable. Followed by corrosion of the main fuse, the ignition or start switch, emergency stop switch, etc..

[cowpuc]

The battery, despite being new, is the #1 suspect. Either dead cell or loose cable. Followed by corrosion of the main fuse, the ignition or start switch, emergency stop switch, etc..

 

:sign yeah that:

 

After checking the Cables and Fuses carefully for corrosion and engagement like Vaz mentions I would stick it on a battery charger and bring it to a full charge and try it, then toss some jumper cables on it if needed to see if that will get er started. After getting it started I would toss an ohm/volt meter across the battery cables to make sure your scoots charging system is doing its thing. At idle = 12 volts, off idle (2 grandish) I would be looking for 14.5 volts..

IMHO, starting the bike every week and letting it sit and idle will drain the battery. If your gonna start it just to keep it operatable you gotta rev it occasionally in the process to keep the battery charged. If you just let it idle you can drain the battery with results similar to what I am reading here.. Maybe a Battery Tender is in your future?

[mralex714]

:sign yeah that:

 

After checking the Cables and Fuses carefully for corrosion and engagement like Vaz mentions I would stick it on a battery charger and bring it to a full charge and try it, then toss some jumper cables on it if needed to see if that will get er started. After getting it started I would toss an ohm/volt meter across the battery cables to make sure your scoots charging system is doing its thing. At idle = 12 volts, off idle (2 grandish) I would be looking for 14.5 volts..

IMHO, starting the bike every week and letting it sit and idle will drain the battery. If your gonna start it just to keep it operatable you gotta rev it occasionally in the process to keep the battery charged. If you just let it idle you can drain the battery with results similar to what I am reading here.. Maybe a Battery Tender is in your future?[/Q

I was going to have the battery tested today, instead I jumped from the battery to the starter solenoid and it started right up, but still no turn signals, brake lights or horn while running. So where is the shared failure point of these things. I'll check the voltage while running later, but I figure if there was enough juice to turn the starter those other things should work. I don't want to put any more work in it than I have to, I will be trying to sell it as a running project or parts.

[videoarizona]

Where is the common point to those things you mentioned? The ignition switch for one. The 1st gen does some interesting things with the starting circuit. If memory serves, besides the normal ones like the neutral, kickstand, turn over and emergency switch (which I don't think is your problem-but I've been wrong before)...the high/low beam/start button switches are the next area to check. Squirt some contact cleaner in there and move the start switch in/out. Make sure it's coming ALL THE WAY OUT! I know that if the start switch doesn't come all the way out, the headlight will not turn on.

 

OH...check to see if your emergency flashers work with ignition off. They should. If yes, then the power to the lights is good. If no, then the problem is common to turn signal circuit power as well as the emergency light power...which is part of the turn signal relay circuit.

 

Again, go over all the switches that can kill the start...and clean them or wiggle them as you try and start her. Lastly, very strange problems have occurred when the primary ground off the batter is corroded or loose.

 

Just trying to think outside the box a little as well as giving you ideas to try. Electrical intermittents are a bear to deal with unless you write down everything that could cause the problem, then like a checklist, go through each item....one at a time.

[mralex714]

Where is the common point to those things you mentioned? The ignition switch for one. The 1st gen does some interesting things with the starting circuit. If memory serves, besides the normal ones like the neutral, kickstand, turn over and emergency switch (which I don't think is your problem-but I've been wrong before)...the high/low beam/start button switches are the next area to check. Squirt some contact cleaner in there and move the start switch in/out. Make sure it's coming ALL THE WAY OUT! I know that if the start switch doesn't come all the way out, the headlight will not turn on.

 

OH...check to see if your emergency flashers work with ignition off. They should. If yes, then the power to the lights is good. If no, then the problem is common to turn signal circuit power as well as the emergency light power...which is part of the turn signal relay circuit.

 

Again, go over all the switches that can kill the start...and clean them or wiggle them as you try and start her. Lastly, very strange problems have occurred when the primary ground off the batter is corroded or loose.

 

Just trying to think outside the box a little as well as giving you ideas to try. Electrical intermittents are a bear to deal with unless you write down everything that could cause the problem, then like a checklist, go through each item....one at a time.

Hazards do work with the ignition off. I will clean the battery terminals.

[Flyinfool]

Hazards do work with the ignition off. I will clean the battery terminals.

 

Don't forget to also clean the other end of the battery wires, every wire has 2 ends.

 

There is also a smaller ground wire connected to the battery, check that wire also. and the connector it goes thru just in front of the battery on the right side.