Need assistance from electronics wizard with neutral light after LED switchout

[OutKast]

My neutral light "flicks" as I pull the clutch in and again when I release it.

 

I looked through the wiring diagrams and it seems the only place the wiring for these two things pass is the box labeled "diode", with two diodes drawn it. My understanding is that a diode only allows current in one direction, and I assume these diodes allows either the neutral light or the cluth switch circuit to enable the starter.

 

I have messed with electronics a bunch over the last week, but testing out each change as I made it. I soldered the 4 jumpers to bypass the "coils" on the CMS. I think the pics were posted by Dingy. Everything works in the startup self test, and no alarms with the LED tail/stop or unplugging the headlight. The gear indicator shows N properly. I think I got all that right.

 

I bypassed the integral flasher in the "comby" unit and installed an adjustable rate flasher by a document forwarded to me from Prairiehammer. The signals and four-ways all work like they should, and signals self cancel. So I did that right.

 

I went ahead and bypassed the RLU while I had the headlight/dash out. I did not use jumpers as shown by FlyinFool, I cut the plug off a RLU on the parts bike. My wire colors did not match his, but his was an 88 and mine an 87. One color he mentioned was not even present on my plug. Using his function description and the wiring diagram I figured it out. Low beam, high beam, and the high beam indicator all work as they should. I did this prior to bypassing the CMS, and the headlight alarm went off when I unplugged the headlight, so all seems right.

 

The neutral light comes on in neutral as well as the N in the indicator, and in this condition I can start the bike on the kickstand, so the gear indicator switch seems to be fine.

 

With the kickstand up, I can start the bike with the clutch pulled in, but not with it out, so seems the clutch switch is working.

 

I also just installed LED bulbs in the lamp. I used three different kinds of bulbs. The one I used for the neutral has only 1 led head focused straight out (12 deg angle if I remember) and uses less than 1 watt.

 

The light just "flicks" for a millisec right as I pull all the slack out of the clutch, and again when I release. every single time.

 

The only thing I can come up with is it happens just as the clutch switch "throws". I know LED "hits" much faster than incandesent. Am I getting enough bleed by on the diodes right as it switches circuits to "hit" the LED? I can follow the wiring schematic, but I am in no way an electronics wizard.

[uhfradarwill]

Can you post the schematic or wiring diagram of the circuit. You say two diodes are shown? If they are tied together on the schematic as one symbol, then it is very likely the are technically diodes but most likely they are serving another purpose like switching.

Will

[OutKast]

The diagram is under Technical Libraries - Read only, first gens, manuals and guides, 86-87.

 

It appears to me they allow two different circuits, the neutral light circuit and the sidestand/clutch circuit, to both activate the Starter Enable without them backfeeding each other.

 

I dont know if these diodes are really the problem, just noted on the diagram this sems to be the only place these two circuits come together.

 

Can you post the schematic or wiring diagram of the circuit. You say two diodes are shown? If they are tied together on the schematic as one symbol, then it is very likely the are technically diodes but most likely they are serving another purpose like switching.

Will

[OutKast]

UPDATE on symptoms:

 

As noted above it "blips" every time the clutch is engaged or released. So I was going to video it to add here. With the key on but the engine not running, it doesn't happen. And you cant see it with the engine running and in neutral because the light is already full intensity. So no video as I dont have a helmet cam and not doing it with my cell phone while riding.

 

Also interesting is it does it when I turn the key off, whether or not the engine is running.

 

Next chance I get I will reinstall to stock lamp. Double verify I did not screw the wiring up.

 

If that corrects it, I will try a 4 head led bulb in place of the one head and see if it works ok. The four head has worked for several members on here, they just were out of stock for several weeks so I got the one head model. The 4 head will be the wrong color, but I will know if the problem is related to current draw.

[OutKast]

Well, I gave up on this and just reinstalled a stock bulb. No real energy savings on it anyway.